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The charity institutions of the early modern Europe have not traditionally been seen as spaces with an economic, and particularly manufacturing, dimension. Although they housed a variety of craft workshops with the aim of training inmates, their study has been often neglected. J. Soubeyroux pointed out that the work done in these institutions was not very truly profitable, J.P. Gutton indicated a production of low quality. This thesis aims to discuss these assertions, going beyond the accounting results to raise other questions. It aims to discuss if charity institutions were in on themselves or, on the contrary, they were well- integrated in their economic environment. Likewise, we would like to analyze if they played a crucial role in the take-off process of the preindustrial period, for example through human capital formation or becoming testing grounds for new industries. This work combines the global perspective of charity institutions in Spain with a microanalytical approach through the study of a specific establishment in Girona, and a particular industry, the cotton hosiery. The choice of this textile industry, which has been carefully considered, responds, on the one hand, to the desire to fill the lack of studies in this sector and, on the other hand, to focus on an activity that took place in the analyzed institution. Several aspects will be highlighted. At the level of the Spanish territory, we would like to examine which agents were involved in the setting up of the manufactories in the establishments and what their scope was. On the other hand, the cotton hosiery sector will be studied from a broad perspective, from its origin in England at the end of the 16th century to its arrival in Catalonia in the 18th century, focusing on the different stages like the Spanish protectionist policy and the migratory phenomenon. Special emphasis will be placed on the process of technology transfer between countries. From this global framework, and searching the perspective of a comparative method, based on a comparative analysis, the charity institutions of Girona will be placed in the midpoint of our reflection, at the heart of our thinking in order to verify our initial hypotheses. The workhouse factories will be observed from different points of view: paid and unpaid workers, wages, connectivity with the social and economic environment and markets. In the last chapter, the focal point focus will be on hosiery. Finally, we will scrutinize the transformations that took place around this activity in order to highlight elements of continuity. Els establiments de caritat fundats per Europa durant l’època moderna no han sigut tradicionalment considerats com a espais dotats d’una dimensió econòmica, i particularment manufacturera. Malgrat la presència de diversos tallers pensats per formar els asilats a un ofici, el seu anàlisis com a entitat pròpia va ser descuidada. J. Soubeyroux indicava que el treball que hi s’hi desenvolupava era poc rendible, J.P. Gutton denunciava una producció mediocre. Aquesta tesi pretén revistar aquestes afirmacions, anant més allà dels resultats comptables i fent-se altres preguntes. En primer lloc, té com a objectiu determinar si els establiments foren tancats sobre si mateix o al contrari, d’una permeabilitat important. Després, cal examinar quin paper van jugar en el procés d’arrancada industrial, com per exemple a través de la formació de capital treball o com a banc de prova per a noves industries. Aquest treball combina una perspectiva global de les institucions espanyoles amb una visió micro-analítica a través l’estudi d’un establiment en concret, el del bisbat de Girona, i d’una manufactura particular, la de la mitgeria de cotó amb teler a nivell de Catalunya. Escollir aquesta activitat, lluny de ser fruit de l’atzar, respon a una doble voluntat. Primer remeiar a la manca d’estudis sobre el sector i després analitzar l’activitat que va tenir lloc a l’establiment que estar al centre de l’estudi. Diversos aspectes seran estudiats. Pel conjunt del territori espanyol, existeix la voluntat de fixar-se en quins van va ser els agents que van propiciar el naixement de les manufactures en les institucions i quin va ser-ne l’abast. D’altra banda, l’activitat de la mitgeria de cotó serà analitzat des d’una perspectiva àmplia, partint dels seus orígens a Anglaterra a finals del segle XVI fins a l’arribada a Catalunya a la segona meitat de segle XVIII, centrant-se en les diferents etapes que expliquen aquest recorregut com la política proteccionista de la Corona i el fenomen migratori. El procés de transferència tecnològica entre els països serà objecte d’atenció particular. A partir d’aquest marc global, i perseguint la òptica d’un mètode comparatiu, els establiments de caritat es posaran en el centre de la reflexió per tal de verificar les hipòtesis de partida. Les manufactures de l’hospici seran analitzades des de diferents punts de vista : els treballadors, els salaris, la connectivitat amb el teixit manufacturer i els mercats. A l’últim capítol, el focus es posarà particularment a la mitgeria. En darrer lloc caldrà analitzar les transformacions que van discórrer al voltant de l’activitat i apuntar-ne els elements de continuïtat. Les établissements de charité qui se sont développés à travers l’Europe à l’époque moderne n’ont traditionnellement pas été considérés comme des espaces dotés d’une dimension économique, et particulièrement manufacturière. Bien que pourvus d’ateliers divers dans le but de former des internes à un métier, leur étude en tant qu’entité a souvent été négligée. J. Soubeyroux indiquait que le travail qui s’y déroulait était peu rentable, J.P. Gutton évoquait une production de qualité médiocre. Cette thèse prétend revisiter ces affirmations, en dépassant les résultats comptables afin de se poser d’autres questions. Elle a pour objectif déterminer tout d’abord si les établissements de charité furent réellement renfermés sur eux-mêmes ou au contraire pourvus d’une perméabilité importante. Ensuite, d’examiner s’ils jouèrent un rôle dans le démarrage industriel, comme par exemple à travers la formation ou devenant des terrains d’essai pour de nouvelles industries. Le présent travail combine la perspective globale des institutions en Espagne avec une vision micro-analytique à travers l’étude d’un établissement concret, celui de la ville de Gérone, et d’une manufacture particulière, celle de la bonneterie de coton au métier. Le choix de cette industrie textile, mûrement réfléchi, répond d’une part à la volonté de combler le manque d’études sur ce secteur et de l’autre, de se pencher sur une activité qui s’installa au sein de l’établissement analysé. Plusieurs aspects vont être mis en avant. Au niveau de l’ensemble du territoire espagnol, il y a la volonté de se pencher sur quels furent les agents qui intervinrent dans la mise en place des manufactures au sein des établissements et quelle fut leur portée. D’autre part, le secteur de la bonneterie de coton sera étudié sous un angle large, de son origine en Angleterre à la fin du XVIe siècle jusqu’à son arrivée en Catalogne au XVIII siècle, en décomposant les différentes étapes qui justifient ce parcours comme la politique protectionniste espagnole et le phénomène migratoire qui en découla. L’accent sera particulièrement mis sur le processus de transfert technologique entre les pays. À partir de ce cadre global, et dans l’optique d’une méthode comparative, les établissements de charité de Gérone viendront se mettre au centre de la réflexion afin de vérifier nos hypothèses de départ. Les manufactures de l’Hospice seront analysées de différents points de vue : les travailleurs, les salaires, la connectivité avec le tissu manufacturier et les marchés. L’accent sera particulièrement mis sur la bonneterie dans le dernier chapitre. Dans un dernier temps, il faudra analyser les transformations qui prirent place autour de cette activité et faire ressortir les éléments de continuité.

Diabetes is a chronic disease affecting more than 450 million people throughout the world. One of the most encountered complications of diabetes is diabetic foot. This study aimed to determine the proper fiber type and fabric structure to be used in a preventive sock for diabetic patients. Three fiber types (cotton, acrylic, and polyester) and three fabric structures (jersey, piquet, and terry) were determined for this investigation. Samples were tested for fabric thickness, thermal resistance, air permeability, water vapor permeability, coefficient of friction, abrasion resistance, recovery after compression, and longitudinal elasticity. Acquired data were evaluated, and a preventive sock for diabetic patients was developed accordingly. The developed sock was compared with various diabetic sock samples procured from the market in terms of effectiveness., Ege University Scientific Research Projects Coordination Unit; [17-MUH-057], ACKNOWLEDGMENTS This study was supported by Ege University Scientific Research Projects Coordination Unit (Project number 17-MUH-057) .

Ege bölgesi 19. Yüzyıl başlarından itibaren pamuk üreticisi bir bölge ve buna bağlı olarak da pamuk ipliği ve pamuklu kumaş ticareti merkezlerinden biri olmuştur. İzmir’de 1800 lerde kurulan yabancı sermayeli iplik ve kumaş fabrikaları Hem iç tüketimin ihtiyacını karşılamış hem de yurt dışına ihracat yapmıştır. Aynı zamanda da ithal edilen özellikle İngiliz ve Hint mamulleri ile rekabet etmişlerdir. Bu fabrikalardan biri olan ve kuruluşu 1893 yılına kadar uzanan İzmir Şark Sanayi Kumpanyası Tekstil Fabrikası da dönemin tekstil piyasasında çok önemli bir yere sahip olmuştur. Karadeniz bölgesi dokuma merkezlerinin yoğunluğu nedeni ile yıllık iplik ve mamul pamuklu kumaş tüketimi açısından tekstil fabrikaları açısından önemli bir Pazar konumunda olmuştur. Özellikle bölgede üretilen futa, alaca, peştamal ve bez dokumalarında kullanılan pamuk ipliklerinin bir kısmı İstanbul Yedikule ve İzmir Pamuk Mensucatı Fabrikaları tarafından, bir kısmı da İstanbul’da bulunan yerli ve yabancı tüccarlar tarafından karşılanmıştır. İzmir Şark Sanayi Kumpanyası Tekstil Fabrikası, Karadeniz Bölgesine iplik sağlayan üreticiler arasında yer almak amacıyla 1924 yılında bölgeye bir pazarlama elemanını göndermiş ve bir pazar araştırması raporu hazırlatmıştır. Bu rapor ışığında Trabzon, Rize, Giresun, Samsun, İnebolu ve Kastamonu şehirlerinin Birinci Dünya Savaşı sonrasındaki ekonomik sosyal durumları, kumaş ve iplik piyasası, yıllık iplik tüketim miktarları hakkında tespitler yapılmıştır, By the beginning of the 19th Century, the Aegean region of Turkey had already become the leading manufacturer of raw cotton, with the increased cultivation of cotton in the countryside. As a result, the coastal port city of Izmir was also fast becoming the center of cotton thread production. During this exciting era, many cotton thread and cloth mills sprang up in the outskirts of the city, financed by European investors, around the 1800’s. These mills aimed at the national-local market and were in fierce competition with the foreign textile imports, especially with the Indian and English manufactures. The Izmir Oriental Industries Company, Textile Mill (est.in 1893) was one of those mills which had a very important place in the textiles industry of the time, and secured itself a strong position, both in national and international markets. Because of the intensity of many centers of weaving centers all around the Black Sea region of Turkey, the whole region at that time had already became a very important market for yearly consumption of cotton thread and cloths for the Aegean textile mills. The fine cotton thread, used videly in the manufacture of the Black Sea type of futa, alaca, peştamal and cloth weavings was produced partly by the Istanbul Yedikule mills and partly by the İzmir Oriental Industries Company Textile Mill and by local and foreign tradesmen. In 1924, in order to secure it’s place firmly among the manufacturers of cotton thread aimed at the Black Sea region, The Izmir Oriental Industries Company Textile Mill decided to embark on a kind of a ‘market research and evaluation survey expedition’ of the Black Sea region. At the end of this long survey, a very detailed report was prepared, giving many crucial details of the cotton textile market situation around the whole region. This article is based on this historical report, which provides valuable information on the names and locations of the many tradesmen, involved in the textile business, their yearly consumption of cotton thread and cloth, the thread and textile manufactures that are traded and about the economical and social conditions of the many Black Sea towns and cities at the time, such as Trabzon, Rize, Giresun, Samsun, İnebolu ve Kastamonu after the First World War. The copy of the original document in Ottoman Turkish is presented with the article, together with it’s modern Turkish translation.

Tez (Yüksek Lisans) -- İstanbul Teknik Üniversitesi, Fen Bilimleri Enstitüsü, 2005, Thesis (M.Sc.) -- İstanbul Technical University, Institute of Science and Technology, 2005, Bu çalışmada, puntalı naylon elastan ipliklerde punta sıklığı ve elastan çekim oranındaki değişikliklerin örme kumaş özelliklerine etkisi araştırılmıştır. Bu amaçla, 3 farklı elastan çekim oranında ve 2 farklı punta sıklığında olmak üzere 5 değişik puntalı iplik üretilmiştir. Puntalı naylon elastan iplikler ile pamuk ipliklerden üretilen vanize örgü yapısındaki çorapların gramaj, kalınlık, sıklık değerleri ile aşınma, boyutsal değişim, esneme, kılcal ıslanma, su buharı geçirgenliği, ilmek çekilmesi ve kuruma özellikleri deneysel olarak incelenmiştir. Yapılan deneysel çalışma sonucunda, punta sıklığı ve elastan çekim oranındaki artışların, kumaşın su buharı geçirgenliği ve kuruma hızı gibi konfor özellikleri üzerinde bir etkisinin olmadığı gözlenmiştir. Bunun yanı sıra, punta sıklığı ve elastan çekim oranındaki artışlar sonucu, kumaşın gramaj, sıklık, boyutsal değişim yüzdesi ve yüzde uzama değerleri artarken, kalınlık, ilmek dönme derecesi, aşınma yüzdesi ve kılcal ıslanma değerlerinde azalmalar tespit edilmiştir., In this study, the effect of changes on the number of interlacing (nodes/m) and elastane yarn tension in nylon elastane intermingled yarn production on knitted fabric properties are investigated. For this purpose, 5 different intermingled yarn produced from 3 different elastane yarn tension and 2 different interlacing density. The values of fabric weight, thickness, density with abrasion, dimensional change, extension, wicking, water vapor transmittance, snagging and drying properties of the knitted fabric, which is produced from nylon elastane intermingled yarns with cotton yarns are examined using experimental methods. The results show that there is no effect of the variables on drying rate and water vapor transmittance. Fabric weight, density, the percentage of dimensional change and extension increase, while fabric thickness, the angle of spirality, the percentage of abrasion and wicking rate decrease with increased interlacing density and elastane yarn tension., Yüksek Lisans, M.Sc.

Le textile est l'une des plus anciennes industries de la Bulgarie. Dans l'Empire Ottoman, le tissage des draps de laine était l'apanage des artisans bulgares, regroupés dans les villes de la Stara Planina et des piémonts. Il existe actuellement plusieurs filières textiles en Bulgarie : lainages, cotonnades, soieries, bonneterie, confection. Une grande partie de cette production est exportée. L'industrie textile bulgare est très dispersée sur l'ensemble du territoire ; mais Sofia est devenu le centre principal., Laferrère Michel. L'industrie textile en Bulgarie. In: Annales de Géographie, t. 98, n°545, 1989. pp. 24-50.