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Fabric dyeing is an important production process in clothing industry and consists of some batch processing machines (BPM). In this study, parallel BPM scheduling problem with machine eligibility in fabric dyeing process is considered and an adaptive shuffled frog-leaping algorithm (ASFLA) is presented to minimise makespan and total tardiness simultaneously. A heuristic is used to produce initial population. Evolution quality of population on the last generation is used to implement adaptive population division and adaptive search process in each memeplex on the current generation. Search process of each memeplex is divided into some segments and search operators are dynamically adjusted after each segment is done. Adaptive elimination is performed on the worst memeplex. Extensive experiments are conducted to test the performance of ASFLA and the computational results demonstrate that new strategies of ASFLA are effective and ASFLA has promising advantages on the considered problem. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Production waste, or inefficiencies in product manufacturing, is a major contributor to environmental problems. Consider production waste in garment manufacturing—which has been criticized for wasteful use of natural resources (e.g. using excessive water and fabric) and wasteful disposal of resource residuals (e.g. discarding excessive wastewater and fabric scraps). The present research examines consumer reactions to production waste and its mitigation as a function of whether it is characterized in terms of resource use versus disposal. A series of seven studies (including field and secondary data) finds that (i) consumers are less sensitive to wasteful resource use than disposal due to lower perceptions of environmental harm; (ii) likewise, consumers are less sensitive to waste mitigation targeting resource use than disposal due to lower perceptions of environmental benefit; and (iii) these waste reaction differences are attenuated when resource scarcity or long-term orientation is heightened (which increases consumer sensitivity to resource use). Together, this research sheds light on how, why, and when consumers are averse to production waste, while providing guidance regarding interventions focused on fighting production waste and promoting sustainability. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Inventory planning in fashion markets is highly challenging, owing to uncertain demand; yet, in making inventory decisions, retailers may be able to capitalise on high substitutability between products. This research develops single-period inventory-management models describing a market with two substitutable products, under stockout-based substitution; i.e. when a customer's preferred product is out-of-stock, s/he may choose to purchase the substitute. Two settings are considered: centralised (a single retailer who sells both products) and competitive (two retailers, each selling one product). For each setting, we derive closed-form analytical solutions for the inventory levels that maximise expected profit. The model is further enriched with sales data from an online apparel retailer offering substitutable products (a sneaker in different colours), and we analyse the sensitivity of the optimal inventory levels and profits to parameter values. Key findings include the following: (i) Under competitive conditions, both retailers always order positive inventory so as not to lose customers. However, in a single-retailer setting, there are situations in which the retailer orders inventory for only one product. (ii) The optimal inventory levels and corresponding profits are highly sensitive to consumers' willingness to substitute between products. These findings provide concrete insights that can guide fashion brands' inventory-management decisions. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Fashion knockoffs, which refer to the copycat behaviours of some brands in fashion apparel, are widely seen. It is commonly believed that the presence of fashion knockoffs harms the original-designer-label (ODL) product seller. Motivated by the industrial interviews and real-world observations, we build game-theoretical models to examine the impacts of fashion knockoffs on the ODL product supply chain and its agents with the consideration of risk attitudes. Explicitly, in the basic model, we consider a common manufacturer producing for both a knockoff product seller and a risk sensitive ODL product seller. The ODL product seller and the knockoff product seller make pricing decisions to optimise their own profits. We interestingly find that the presence of fashion knockoffs benefits the ODL product supply chain and its agents when (i) the ODL product seller is risk averse and the ratio of demand uncertainty is relatively small or (ii) the ODL product seller is risk seeking and the ratio of demand uncertainty is sufficiently large. The findings indicate that a risk averse (seeking) ODL product seller is more prone to benefit from the presence of fashion knockoffs when selling fashionable (classic) products. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Printability and interlayer adhesion are the most critical issues in 3D printing of immiscible polymer blends. It can affect structural integrity and mechanical performance of the printed parts. In this work, an effective strategy to improve the printability and interlayer adhesion of immiscible acrylonitrile-butadiene- styrene/polypropylene (ABS/PP) blends was implemented by introducing styrene-ethylene/butylene-styrene copolymer grafted with maleic anhydride (SEBS-gMA) as a compatibilizer. The printability of the developed blends was investigated using rheological properties such as absolute value of complex viscosity, loss tangent and die-swell ratio. Interestingly, it was found that the additive manufactured blends with 20 wt% SEBS-g-MA loading showed improved interlaminar shear strength, impact strength, Young's modulus and toughness as compared with the pure blend. Fractography analysis revealed that two different possible failure mechanisms, interface and matrix failure were apparent in the 3D printed samples with and without SEBS-g-MA content. This work provides a promising pathway to fabricate the complex structures from polymer blends with improved mechanical properties and surface finish. Highlights * This study demonstrated improved interlayer adhesion at the printed interface of immiscible ABS/PP blends in presence of SEBS-g-MA. * The printability of the developed blends was predicted from rheological properties. * Additive manufactured blends with SEBS-g-MA loading showed improved mechanical performance. KEYWORDS ABS, interlaminar shear strength, interlayer adhesion, PP, printability, 1 | INTRODUCTION Additive Manufacturing (AM) is a revolutionizing fabrication technique in which the selected material is deposited layer-by-layer in accordance with computeraided design (CAD).1 Several AM processes are commercially [...]

The erosion of high-end fashion brands by fast-fashion copycats (e.g., Zara, H&M) has stirred controversies and unceasing legal attempts to copyright fashion designs. Despite the purported negative impact of copycats, the effect of fashion copycats on high-end brands remains empirically unclear. Research on this topic has been impeded by the absence of a modeling framework to quantify fashion and by the lack of consumer-level data on fashion choices. The authors collect data on the posting behaviors of consumers on a fashion-specific social media platform and develop a dynamic structural model with deep learning image analytics to characterize consumers' choices of brands and styles. Results suggest that fast-fashion copycats can both harm high-end brands (a cannibalization effect) and help them (a market expansion effect). The authors also identify both static and dynamic mechanisms that contribute to the market expansion effect: The affordability of mixing copycats with high-end brands boosts the number of high-end items featured in posts by financially constrained consumers (a static mechanism). In addition, good styles from copycats enable users to build their popularity on social media over time, which may increase the users' valuation of high-end brands and reduce the users' future costs via sponsorship opportunities (dynamic mechanisms). The results could inform policy makers about the potential consequences of prohibiting fashion copycats. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The ongoing rise of liquid consumption manifests in the growing popularity of ephemeral, access-based, and dematerialized forms of consumption that contrast with traditional solid forms of consumption characterized by possession and strong object relationships. The literature already presents a robust understanding of what makes liquid and solid consumption appealing to consumers. What has received less attention is the co-existence of liquid and solid consumption in consumers' lived experiences. Furthermore, the literature does not explain how the balance that consumers achieve between liquid and solid consumption fluctuates over time. This study illuminates the co-existence of liquid and solid consumption through a phenomenological inquiry of subscription-based clothing libraries, a context where solid personal possessions frequently mix with liquid accessed items in everyday use. Findings show that changes in consumer desire play a major role in consumer decisions to liquify or solidify consumption, especially over time. Overall, the study provides new theoretical insights into liquid and solid consumption, consumer desire, and burdens of access-based consumption. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this study, we present a multi-product, multi-period inventory control problem under uncertainty in product demands that emerges in the fashion industry. A two-stage stochastic model is proposed to design a planning strategy where the total cost incurred by purchase orders, inventory and shortage is minimised. We incorporate the Conditional Value at Risk (CVaR) within the formulation to address exogenous uncertainty. An industrial case study involving a Mexican fashion retail company was considered to assess the performance of the two-stage stochastic model. Scenarios were considered using historical data provided by the company. A sensitivity analysis was also conducted on risk-aversion parameters to assess how the values of these parameters affect the behaviour of the proposed formulation. The results show that the proposed two-stage stochastic formulation is an efficient and practical approach to handle exogenous uncertainty in industrial-scale capacitated lot-sizing problems. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The clothes inventory balancing scheduling problem (CIBSP) among branch stores with the allowance of lateral transshipments has gained increasing attentions in fast-fashion apparel industry, especially for the trial sale of new products. To solve the CIBSP faced by a leading apparel company in China, a mixed integer linear programming (MILP) model is first formulated, based on which a relax-and-fix (R&F) method is developed. Several heuristic cuts based on practical experience and observations are further integrated into the R&F method to speed up the searching. The effectiveness of the method is demonstrated through extensive computational experiments: it is able to provide near-optimal solutions with average optimality gap 1.15% with less computation time, compared to solving the MILP model directly in a commercial solver. Case studies also demonstrate that the developed R&F method can obtain high-quality solutions with average optimality gap 0.09% with much less computation time. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Purpose: The purpose of this study is to investigate the effectiveness of university-driven knowledge transfer initiatives in enhancing the capabilities and performance of local suppliers in the garment industry. By focusing on the impact of UDIs in Myanmar, this research aims to provide empirical evidence on how these initiatives can foster supplier development and performance improvement through targeted capability enhancement strategies. Design/methodology/approach: This study utilizes a combination of surveys and an experimental design to evaluate the impact of university-driven supplier development interventions (UDIs) based on Lean principles in Myanmar's garment industry. Nine garment suppliers were assessed before and after the UDI program. The research employed partial least squares structural equation modeling (PLS-SEM) to analyze the direct, indirect and mediating effects of UDIs on supplier performance, focusing on the role of supplier capability enhancement as a mediating factor. Findings: The study found that the UDI program significantly improved supplier capabilities, which in turn led to enhanced performance. The analysis revealed partial mediation, indicating that while UDIs directly impact supplier performance, their effect is significantly amplified through the enhancement of supplier capabilities. These findings highlight the critical role of targeted capability development in achieving substantial performance improvements among local suppliers. Originality/value: This research contributes to the literature by providing empirical evidence on the effectiveness of university-driven supplier development initiatives in a developing country context. It validates the indirect role of UDIs in boosting supplier performance via capability enhancement, emphasizing the importance of industry-specific and capability-focused development strategies. The findings underscore the value of structured knowledge transfer programs in supporting local suppliers, offering practical insights for policymakers and educational institutions aiming to enhance industrial performance through strategic interventions. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In the automation process of the garment industry, a notable challenge arises from the presence of flexible materials characterized by irregular shapes, posing difficulties for robotic grasping. This article addresses this challenge by proposing a gripper manipulator centered around the 4 P-RRP quadrilateral cone folding mechanism as the core driving mode, with the angled four-bar linkage mechanism serving as the extension arm. Utilizing screw theory, the developability of the 4 P-RRP four-pyramid mechanism with one degree of freedom is verified, forming the basis for its adoption as the central driving mechanism. Furthermore, an in-depth analysis of the geometric properties of the robot's extension arm leads to the derivation of an optimal folding ratio structure, which is seamlessly integrated into the robot design. Kinematic equations for the mechanism are formulated and solved using the D-H parameter method to obtain the kinematic solution. The investigation demonstrates that the manipulator utilizing the quadrilateral cone folding mechanism significantly enhances adaptability to irregular shapes. By incorporating this proposed mechanism, robots can efficiently manipulate flexible materials across various garment manufacturing applications. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In the People's Republic of Poland1, blue jeans were much more than just an element of clothing. They have become a symbol of freedom, a generational rebellion, and an aspiration for the world on the other side of the Iron Curtain. Aid parcels sent by relatives, mainly from the USA and also from Great Britain, Canada, and Australia played a significant role in getting to know denim clothing in socialist Poland. In the second half of the 1960s, the domestic production of substitute denim-like materials2, including denim-like trousers, was started. They were a response to the demand, in particular, of groups of young people for products made of this type of material. The new improvements and material inventions were supervised by the association of clothing industries and research laboratories, which played an essential role in the creation of materials for domestic production (Kortan 1981). A group of active Polish textile and fashion designers contributed to promote comfortable denim clothing from the West. This article presents the role of the denim clothing industry in Poland during the socialist period (1952–1989), considering the cultural context and the impact of this clothing on discovering alternative forms, replacing the originals from capitalist countries. It should be noted that in the People's Republic of Poland, new types of textile materials were developed and improved so that they corresponded, at least in part, to materials from the West and filled in product gaps. To this end, proprietary commercial versions of fabrics used to produce garments, including the jeans discussed in this publication, were made of a textile known as in Polish word "Teksas" a denim substitute. Researching archival materials and showing achievements in the field of textiles and fashion fills the gap in research on cultural significance of fashion, textile materials and the production of denim and clothing from domestic fabrics of the socialist era. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The world has been facing a growing crisis in textile waste due to global population growth and improved living conditions, combined with a decrease in the life cycles of textile products. Textile recycling is one of the key aspects for reducing the massive waste problem generated by the fashion and textile industries. Despite the need to develop textile waste recycling industries, acceptable practical interim measures still need to be taken. Textile waste can affect people's lives economically and environmentally. Producing apparel from natural or synthetic origin can produce pollutants and waste at each stage. In this review article, the effects of the fashion and textile industry have been studied from economic and environmental perspectives. The available technologies and methods for waste recovery and recycling at each stage have been studied, and the uses of products after recycling have been systematically investigated. Despite all the progress made in the waste recycling processes of the fashion industry, many deficiencies and challenges still need to be addressed. Among the most critical challenges are the large scale of industries, the problems of collecting and classifying waste materials, and the presence of contaminants including blends and chemicals. There is also need for more awareness among consumers about the importance of fiber-to-fiber recycling processes, because to date the progress in this field is out of proportion to its necessity. Overall, this article is a valuable resource for anyone interested in understanding the current state of recycling and recovery in the textiles, garment, and fashion industries. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Workers in the garment manufacturing industry are often subjected to violations of their rights and are exposed to low wages and difficult working conditions. In response to the exposure of these violations in the media, major fashion brands and retailers subject their suppliers to labour codes of conduct. Despite these codes of conduct being largely ineffective, this comparative case study of garment manufacturers operating from Lesotho and Eswatini illustrates that such codes provide workers and trade unions with access to bargaining leverage that they would otherwise not have. A framework with a synthesis of potential sources of workers' power is developed and related to global production networks, collective mobilisation, the nature of the state, as well as national and transnational scales of organising. Based on historical case studies of the two countries, this paper illustrates how unions in the two countries followed different approaches to using this source of power in relation to other sources of power. These approaches were shaped by their contexts and strategic choices. Theoretically, it is argued that sources of workers' power are analytically distinct, but are relational and operate best when seen as mutually reinforcing. The term 'power resource nexus' is used to frame this potential mutual reinforcement of sources of power. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This paper highlights the implications of leveraging artificial intelligence (AI) to enhance business decision making that has a simultaneous impact in strengthening sustainability initiatives in the apparel and fashion industry. This paper provides a detailed understanding of how AI implemented for procurement, designing, manufacturing and distribution decisions can impact the state of sustainability in organisations. A threefold approach is adopted to provide academic and industry insights. The first section summarises the existing state of technology and AI in the apparel and fashion industry. The existing literature is reviewed based on focused research issues of apparel supply chain and the AI-based methodologies. The second section focuses on gathering industry insights and summarises the findings from experts across procurement, design, manufacturing, distribution and retail. A qualitative research approach is applied with 11 semi-structured in-depth interviews from 5 high end fashion retailers who have implemented AI in designing, manufacturing and selling. The third section provides a foundation for achieving sustainability goals through AI enabled decision making. Research findings reveal that AI can be leveraged to create three main sustainability impacts in the apparel and fashion industry: (i) waste reduction due to process and material efficiency, (ii) reduced discards due to process improvements and (iii) recyclability. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The world without the textile and clothing industry would be unimaginable as it plays an essential role in the lifecycle of human beings. However, due to rapidly changing fashion trends and the short lifespan of textile products, the consumption rate is increasing daily, resulting in worldwide concern about managing textile waste and sustainability. Reuse-remanufacturing-recycling (3R) of textile items is an alternative for longer product life and reduced consumption. This paper attempted to identify the 3R challenges and possible solutions in the reverse logistics process of the textile supply chain. A systematic literature review of 68 articles was done to develop five propositions of 3R challenges: product acquisition, waste collection, inspection & sorting, disposition, and information & legislation. The understanding of challenges helps managers to develop mitigation strategies to overcome them. Implementing 3R practices by overcoming the challenges helps the stakeholders for sustainable reverse logistics (economic, environmental, and social) in the textile and clothing units. Knowledge about a comprehensive list of challenges to 3R practices in reverse logistics helps policymakers to develop regulations and rules that encourage sustainability practices in the textile and clothing industry. The study concluded with limitations and future research directions. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This study aimed to investigate the evolutionary design features in recent virtual fashion brand collections, analysing 314 design images from leading brands, such as Auroboros, Tribute, Republiqe, The Fabricant, and RTFKT. The analysis classified key design elements–colour, silhouette, texture, and textile patterns – into three phases: embryonic, transitional, and expansion. Findings revealed that the embryonic phase prioritises symbolising brand identities and goals as main design elements. The transitional phase marked a shift toward increased collaboration and experimental designs in response to emerging trends. In the expansion phase, collections shifted away from foundational design elements, displaying mature aesthetics and greater collaboration. These findings identify the evolutionary design features of virtual fashion in the Metaverse era and highlight insights into its consistency with contemporary fashion sensibilities. This research contributes to establishing a crucial knowledge base for research into the development of affective design systems, addressing consumer emotional requirements in virtual fashion design. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The demand for traceability has emerged as a significant imperative within the framework of an ethical supply chain that includes multiple stages. This study focusses on the implementation and impact of traceability technology in the Ghanaian fashion industry. The study employed descriptive and explanatory research, using a 700-stakeholder sample, a standardised questionnaire, and descriptive and inferential statistical methods. The findings of the study indicate that QR codes, GPS tracking, sustainable material tracing, and consumer interaction apps demonstrate a high level of effectiveness within the Ghanaian fashion business. The implementation of traceability technology faces challenges like limited knowledge, research insufficient, lack of coordination, policy absence, financial constraints, technological infrastructure limitations, data privacy concerns, opposition, and training gaps. Stakeholders generally support the implementation of coordination policies and regulatory compliance strategies, suggesting that factors like awareness, research, cost, infrastructure, data protection, opposition, and training should be prioritised. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Purpose: The effect of dynamic capabilities on operational excellence and the moderating effect of environmental dynamism on the relationship between operational excellence and dynamic capabilities in the apparel industry in Sri Lanka were investigated while developing new psychometric scales to assess operational excellence and dynamic capacities constructs. Design/methodology/approach: We followed the exploratory sequential research design with a mixed-method research approach, aligning with the pragmatic research philosophy. Thus, both qualitative and quantitative research methods were followed. Findings: Dynamic capabilities positively affect operational excellence, and environmental dynamism moderates the relationship between operational excellence and dynamic capabilities in the apparel industry in Sri Lanka such that when a higher environmental dynamism exists, a weaker positive relationship exists between dynamic capabilities and operational excellence. The two main dimensions of the operational excellence construct are continuous improvement of sustainable operational performance and sustainable competitive advantages. It empirically confirmed that sensing, seizing and reconfiguring capabilities are the three main dimensions of the dynamic capabilities construct. Research limitations/implications: This study was limited to the apparel industry in Sri Lanka. This research phenomenon should be explored in other industrial sectors worldwide to generalize the findings. The practitioners in the apparel sector may improve the organizational dynamic capabilities to achieve operational excellence and keep a strong positive relationship between dynamic capabilities and operational excellence in a highly dynamic environment if they address out-of-family situations with out-of-the-box thinking. Originality/value: We generated two new empirical findings: (1) dynamic capabilities positively affect operational excellence, and (2) environmental dynamism moderates the relationship between dynamic capabilities and operational excellence. Also, we introduced validated new scales for assessing operational excellence and dynamic capabilities. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Today, growing concerns about the Earth's finite resources and escalating climate challenges have sparked a reassessment of industrial processes. This has led to a call for a more responsible and transparent approach across various sectors. The global conversation prominently revolves around sustainable development to foster diversity within a comprehensive framework to effectively address UNESCO's four pillars of sustainability: Environment, economy, society, and culture. The fashion industry, a highly significant and influential sector, has proven to be invasive due to resource-intensive processes that impact both the environment and the economy. Additionally, the industry's rich cultural content plays a substantial role in shaping social and cultural shifts. In this context, this article focuses on design as a catalyst for reform within the fashion industry's supply and value chain, steering it towards sustainability. The focus is on exploring emerging responsible practices aligned with evolving priorities, aspirations, and lifestyles to foster a systemic approach to sustainability in fashion. The discussion highlights design-led perspectives that support a sustainable transition, underscoring the necessity for a transformative mindset among designers. This involves adopting innovative strategies to promote responsible approaches and practices for contributing to a more sustainable future. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In light of the emerging use of AI in design, we investigate consumer responses to clothing marketed as AI-designed. We examine how the perceived scarcity of AI-designed clothing influences purchase intentions, with perceived monetary value acting as a mediator, and consider the moderating effects of fashion involvement. Data was collected via an online survey (n = 311) and analysed using SPSS 28.0. Participants were presented to an image of a jacket described as being created by AI technology and then answered a series of questions about the AI-designed jacket and about themselves. Results indicated that the scarcity of AI-designed clothing by itself may not significantly boost purchase intentions. However, fashion brands can capitalise on the perception of scarcity if the product is seen as offering good value for money. This effect is especially pronounced among consumers who have low involvement in fashion. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

As consumers search for new styles, escape boredom, or update their wardrobe, brands offer new collections that promote new looks to create sales. While past studies have examined variety-seeking behaviour within the context of brand switching or seeking new brands, less is known about consumer shopping tendencies within the context of ‘frequently purchased brands’. This study examines the extent to which consumers search beyond their favoured basket of fashion brands by investigating variety-seeking behaviour, attractiveness of alternative brands, satisfaction with brands, and brand commitment. An online survey was used to collect data from 242 female consumers. The results suggest that female consumers’ variety-seeking behaviour may weaken their relationship with favoured fashion brands as they seek alternative choices while highlighting the importance of strategically leveraging the pre-existing brand-consumer relationship. This study adds to the fashion literature where fashion consumption related to variety-seeking and brand commitment are examined. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

As the number of new technologies used in the apparel industry continues to grow, greater pressure is placed on university faculty to incorporate opportunities for students to learn them within the curriculum. The purpose of this study was to examine the benefits and challenges of this decision from the perspective of faculty who teach in apparel programmes and to compare their perspectives with those of industry professionals that hire new graduates. Data were collected with faculty via an online questionnaire and through virtual interviews with industry professionals. Findings point to areas of overlap between faculty and industry perspectives, especially the need for students to learn 3D/virtual technologies and the relatively high costs involved in doing so, as well as differences, including the goals for adopting 3D/virtual technologies. Further study can help to align industry expectations with the realities involved in adopting such technologies by apparel programmes. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

With society's increasing call for more inclusivity in the fashion industry, adaptive clothing, designed for people with disabilities (PWD), has rapidly emerged as a critical and high-potential product category for U.S. retailers. By analysing thousands of clothing items in the market from 2018 to 2022 at the Stock Keeping Unit level, this study analysed U.S. retailers' merchandising strategies for adaptive clothing. The logistic regression revealed that, statistically, adaptive clothing in the U.S. retail market looked more 'boring' and exhibited lower availability in several categories, including dresses, outerwear & suits, and underwear. Also, compared with nonadaptive ones, adaptive clothing statistically was more likely to be priced higher than the market average. The findings generated critical new knowledge about the business aspect of adaptive clothing by adding a valuable retailers' perspective. The results also call for efforts to make adaptive clothing more diverse in product categories and financially affordable to PWD. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Sustainability certification is one means to address environmental and social issues present in fashion supply chains, whilst bridging the knowledge gap between brands and consumers. However, despite increased urgency to improve social, ethical and environmental practices in this industry, little is understood about how ethical fashion brands currently utilise sustainability certification, in an increasingly saturated, and often unregulated, labelling environment. This study examines choice of sustainability certifications, certification process, and use of labelling, by a range of Australasian fashion brands who promote sustainability as a core part of their customer-facing image. The research identifies a five-stage framework for sustainability certification, as well as indicating failures of current systems relative to user needs. The study develops and offers a proposal for a standardised taxonomy of fashion sustainability labelling that could be adapted, irrespective of firm size, sales revenue of garment and textile types. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The fashion industry is the fourth biggest industry globally, with a value of $3 trillion and a workforce of 3384 million. However, the rapid development of the fashion industry negatively impacts the environment. With industrial practice, blockchain technology is found to be efficient and effective in helping fashion supply chain members cope with sustainability issues with accessibility, security, traceability, and transparency. This paper makes a systematic literature review and in‐depth exploration of adopting blockchain technology to facilitate sustainable supply chain practices with a particular case study on the fashion industry in coastal areas and a discussion of the application of blockchain technology in the global fashion industry. Based on the combination of the literature review, the case study, and the discussion, managerial insights are generated concerning blockchain adoption for boosting sustainability in the fashion industry in various domains. Future research opportunities are also discussed. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

There is limited research on how sports fashion brands should develop their strategies to enhance customers' virtual level of connectedness with companies, taking advantage of the recent expressive growth in social network users. Thus, a new structural model is proposed to analyse the drivers and outcomes of cognitive online brand identification (COBI). This study intends to explore in the sports fashion context (a) the effect of brand prestige and lifestyle congruency on cognitive brand identification, (b) the direct effect of cognitive brand identification on brand advocacy and (c) the indirect effect through brand love. Data were collected using a prolific panel from the United Kingdom and considering individuals that use at least one social media platform to search for and purchase sports fashion clothes (n = 304). The findings indicate that online brand prestige and lifestyle congruency are related to COBI and its outcomes. Although the direct relationship between online brand identification and brand advocacy is not significant, brand love mediates this relationship. Thus, a sports fashion customer is able to forgive any mistake and recommend the sports brand to others, and love towards the brand should be part of the process. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The sharing economy provides an interesting playground in which to innovate business models with the aim of creating sustainable value. Despite the growing interest in the topic, the relationship between sharing economy business models and sustainability is still largely unknown. In this study, the focus is on examining how to increase the utilization of unused or underutilized assets through business models to create sustainable value. Based on the comprehensive analysis of sustainability‐oriented companies in the Finnish clothing industry, 11 business model (BM) types with different internal development and cooperation levels were identified, guiding the development of BMs toward sharing. By applying a contingency theory, we identified different contingency factors interacting with BM components and affecting the potential of these BMs to increase the sustainable use of resources and move toward increased sustainable value creation. This new understanding contributes especially to the call to study BM innovations in contingent situations, and highlights the importance of considering the context while analyzing the sustainable value creation potential of sharing economy BMs. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The integration of 3D printing and design technologies into the fashion industry has created new opportunities for customization and flexibility in apparel production. These innovations enable faster creation of new clothing models and allow designers to experiment with unique designs, distinguishing themselves from conventional mass production. However, the widespread adoption of 3D-printed clothing faces limitations due to the rigidity of current materials, which impacts flexibility and comfort. Despite these challenges, designers like Iris van Herpen and Victoria Beckham have successfully incorporated 3D-printed elements into high-fashion collections, highlighting the technology's artistic potential. Current applications are primarily found in accessories and avant-garde designs, where rigidity poses fewer issues. The future of 3D printing in fashion lies in personalized, eco-friendly production with further advancements in material science and cost reductions. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The clothing industry has experienced global and sustained growth in the last decades due, among other factors, to the decentralisation of production in this sector and its consequent lowering of prices, but also to the effect of the unceasing demand that fashion generates. Simultaneously, the number of people employed in the textile sector has been growing in economically developing countries under precarious labour conditions. The objective of this study is to analyse the level of knowledge and awareness of the Spanish population about the working conditions in clothing manufacturing at production sites. To achieve this, we applied statistical analysis to data collected from a sample (n = 3000) of Spanish fashion consumers. The main results show a society with a high degree of concern for labour conditions in the textile sector, as well as for the environmental repercussions triggered by this type of production. Considering the differences based on socio-demographic variables, we find that women, older consumers, and respondents with higher education show a greater degree of concern about the working conditions in the clothing industry. Along the same lines, respondents who are ideologically left wing present a higher degree of concern than respondents from the extreme right. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Purpose: The COVID-19 pandemic has brought dramatic life changes to consumers. From the perspective of fashion shopping, this study aims to provide an understanding of how consumers have coped with the pandemic to maintain their physical and mental well-being. Design/methodology/approach: Utilizing an observational research method, this study extracted and analyzed text data from Twitter, focusing on fashion consumption-related tweets posted by consumers in May 2020. Content analysis was employed to reveal consumers' coping strategies during the pandemic. Findings: Through fashion shopping, consumers have employed various strategies to cope with the problems incurred during the pandemic as well as the associated emotional stress. Specifically, problem-focused strategies included both active coping and restraint coping. Emotion-focused strategies included positive reinterpretation, acceptance, mental disengagement and seeking social support. Originality/value: Theoretically, this study provides empirical evidence for the Coping Orientation to Problems Experienced (COPE) Inventory in the context of using fashion shopping as a venue to cope with a pandemic. Managerial implications are also provided for the fashion industry as well as human service providers to better prepare for future public health crises. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This article explores the environmental damage caused by the fashion industry across six key areas. First, the fashion industry contributes significantly to carbon emissions, as cotton and synthetic fabric production require large amounts of energy and water. Second, fast fashion and clothing waste lead to environmental pollution, with synthetic materials taking a long time to decompose in nature. Third, the use of chemicals and dyes pollutes water sources. Fourth, the industry has a severe impact on water resources, with excessive water use contributing to water scarcity. The fifth aspect is the microplastics released from synthetic clothing, which flow into water bodies and harm ecosystems. Finally, the article emphasizes the importance of sustainable fashion and eco-friendly solutions to reduce the industry's environmental footprint. In summary, while the fashion industry poses serious threats to the environment, the promotion of sustainable fashion and environmentally responsible production and consumption are key measures to mitigate these issues. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This paper critically considers the circular economy in the Kenyan fashion industry context, addressing structural and geographical hierarchies and inequalities in the conceptualisation of the circular economy and its associated practices in fashion. From the perspective of fashion designers, it highlights specific geopolitical and geo-economic tensions between local cultural foundations of 'circular' fashion and the impact of global market forces. Focusing on dynamics relating to second-hand clothing imports and Export Processing Zones (EPZs) for garment manufacturing, we present findings from qualitative research with Kenyan fashion designers (2019–2023) demonstrating how they both inhibit circular economy development in fashion and provide opportunities for innovations through creative adaptation practices. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The efficient cutting of non-woven fabric shows great significance to the development of the textile industry. In recent years, laser cutting technology has been widely applied in the clothing industry due to its high efficiency and cutting quality. In this work, a UV nanosecond pulsed laser with a wavelength of 355 nm and a max power of 6.5 W is used to cut non-woven fabric with a thickness of 0.15 mm. The variation of kerf width, surface morphology, and chemical contents are investigated under different laser processing parameters, and the optimal processing parameter is determined. The experimental results demonstrate that the degree of crystallization and chemical composition of the kerf on the non-woven fabric surface is significantly influenced by laser cutting parameters such as laser scanning speed (from 100 to 700 mm/s) and frequency (from 20 to 70 kHz). The scanning speed of 500 mm/s and frequency of 30 kHz are considered the best parameters for achieving abundant energy for the complete and efficient cutting of non-woven fabric. In addition, the level of carbonization and oxidation reaches a relatively low value, and the kerf width is 0.214 mm, which is considered a reasonable value under the optimal processing parameters, showing high cutting quality. Furthermore, the effect of different cutting treatments on surface morphology and chemical contents is also studied. The experimental results present that the non-woven fabric cut by laser possesses a flat kerf, showing a similar effect to that of scissor cutting. Moreover, due to the programmability of laser processing patterns, it is possible to create more intricate designs on non-woven fabric. This facilitates the application and promotion of laser-cut non-woven fabrics. These results can provide a certain reference for laser cutting in the textile industry and are expected to allow for the cutting of high-quality kerf with low carbonization and oxidation. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Purpose: The purpose of this paper is to investigate the organizational readiness perspective of adopting artificial intelligence and big data analytics in the textile and garment industry in Bangladesh along with identifying the associated factors. Design/methodology/approach: The research uses a qualitative method using semi-structured interviews with representatives of business organizations and stakeholders of Bangladesh's textile and garment industry. Findings: The research reveals that the textile and garment industry in Bangladesh currently has low organizational readiness to adopt artificial intelligence and big data analytics. This is due to moderate knowledge- and leadership-readiness along with low human-, finance- and engagement-readiness of most of the business organizations. The readiness aspects interplay with each other and need to be improved holistically. Practical implications: Considering the significant global and national importance of Bangladesh's textile and garment industry, gaining insights into the industry's current state of readiness for adopting artificial intelligence and big data analytics would offer valuable assistance to both national and global economies and may enhance economic outcomes. Originality/value: Since no exploratory study was conducted to understand the organizational readiness aspects of adopting artificial intelligence and big data analytics of the globally significant textile and garment industry in Bangladesh, the paper analyzes five key aspects of such readiness and offers a basis for conducting similar studies in other emerging economies. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This paper analyzes the strategic decisions of fashion brands regarding the development of digital assets based on blockchain technology, with a focus on achieving both sustainability and profitability goals. We first consider foundational factors such as the fashion value of products, their life cycle, and environmental taxes to construct a traditional fashion system involving the government, fashion brands, and consumers. Subsequently, we introduce a blockchain model that incorporates the added value of digital assets, the cost of technology, and the proportion of fashion consumers. Both models—traditional and digital—are solved mathematically, and numerical experiments are conducted to compare and analyze the impact of developing digital assets by fashion brands. The findings suggest that leveraging digital assets to enhance the fashion value of products can increase the profitability of fashion brands while also reducing environmental pollution caused by leftover inventory. Additionally, the development of digital assets may extend the life cycle of a product, although this does not always lead to improved environmental performance, highlighting a trade-off between the two objectives. Ultimately, the development of digital assets by fashion brands can result in a win-win for both profit and environmental performance, but this outcome is contingent on the cost of blockchain technology meeting specific conditions. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Purpose: To reduce the difficulty of the sewing process and promote the automation process of fabric sewing, a soft finger-assisted feeding method is proposed to investigate the effect of sewing process parameters on the quality of automatic sewing. Design/methodology/approach: Taking cotton woven fabrics as an example, the causes of sewing deviation are firstly investigated from three aspects: fabric properties, sewing speed and sewing edge position. By simulating the sewing action of human hands, the method of reducing sewing deviation by using soft fingers to press and feed the fabric is proposed. Then, four sewing process factors, namely, robot arm end pressure, sewing machine speed, sewing needle gauge and stitch density, were selected, and three levels were set for each factor to design orthogonal sewing experiments. The sewing deviation of 1# sample under different sewing processes was measured, and the optimal parameter matching for automatic sewing of this specimen was derived. Findings: The findings demonstrate that, while sewing cloth automatically, the sewing deviation is significantly influenced by the robotic arm's end pressure, sewing speed, and stitch density, whereas the sewing deviation is not significantly impacted by the needle number. Originality/value: The findings offer fundamental information for the development of an automated sewing procedure using soft fingers, which has theoretical and real-world application value to speed up the intelligent modernization and transformation of the apparel industry. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Purpose: This study aims to investigate the association between certifications in the Bangladeshi readymade garment (RMG) sector and diverse firm resources, contributing to Bangladesh's competitive advantage. Design/methodology/approach: The study conducted a quantitative content analysis of 366 Bangladeshi RMG firm websites, using Barney's (1991) resource-based theory (RBT) framework. Pearson correlation and linear regression analyses were used to explore the research questions. Findings: The findings reveal significant positive impacts of certifications on all firm resource categories (physical, human, organizational knowledge and learning, general organizational and financial) under the RBT framework. Certifications correlate positively with resources, from small to medium, and with various factors, though some negative correlations were identified. Research limitations/implications: The study improves comprehension of apparel manufacturers' certifications and their association with firm resources, offering valuable insights for stakeholders on long-term competitive advantages. Yet, limitations should be considered, including size-dependent variations and reliance on self-reported website data. Originality/value: This study represents a pioneering effort, concentrating on Bangladesh's RMG sector and offering a unique perspective on the implications of certifications for firm resources within emerging economies. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In response to globalization of traditional manufacturing and the growing significance of a symbolic economy, fashion cities are now formed by different mixings of material, design/creative and symbolic forms of production. The intersection between these elements is particularly evident in the global fashion cities, which have experienced a profound process of deindustrialization and a shift between manufacturing and symbolic economies. This paper explores London's relationship with fashion through the perspectives of key industry actors. We draw upon 30 semi-structured in-depth interviews undertaken between 2016 and 2018 to explore the interplay between material, creative and symbolic forms of fashion production in the city. Interview material is supported by the analysis of data collected from the Office for National Statistics and the Higher Education Statistics Agency. London's fashion ecosystem is seen as having strong focus on creativity, artistic values and forms of symbolism, which are however regarded as in tension with a viable fashion design industry, an effective business culture and manufacturing system. The paper contributes to the literature on the fashion's positioning in urban economies by shedding light on the interaction between production, creative and symbolic elements in a global creative city. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Fashion graduates are entering a rapidly evolving global industry, and educators play key roles in supporting them to become career-ready. Universities worldwide are implementing Work Integrated Learning and Career Development Learning initiatives and strategies into their courses with an increasing focus on providing industry-based experience. This article provides a case study on the unique implementation of scaffolded careers and employability focused learning within the RMIT University’s Bachelor of Fashion Enterprise in Melbourne, Australia. Evidence points to the benefits of the programme to students, educators and industry partners and it has been recognised nationally for its contribution to learning and innovation. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The purpose of this study is to identify how sustainable fashion brands communicate with consumers on social media, specifically, Instagram. By applying a data mining technique to analyze brand posts and consumer comments, we thoroughly examine how consumers engage with sustainable messages from each brand and how those engagements are associated with brand posts. A sample of six sustainable fashion brands was selected, including Eileen Fisher, Everlane, Girlfriend Collective, Patagonia, Reformation, and Stella McCartney. Public posts of the six brands and corresponding consumer comments on Instagram between November 1, 2019 and November 1, 2022 were collected. LDA (Latent Dirichlet Allocation) text mining technique was applied to extract topics from each brand’s posts and follower comments. A fixed effects linear panel model was then employed to examine if consumer comments are significantly associated with sustainable messages from each brand. Ten major sustainability-related themes were identified from brand posts, and four major sustainability-related themes were discovered from consumer comments. The linear panel results provide preliminary evidence that the sustainability-related themes from consumer comments are positively influenced by the sustainability-related themes from brand posts, indicating that brand posts indeed affect consumers’ opinions about sustainability. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

As technology and science expand from the palms of our hands into the sleeves of our shirts, the future of fashion textiles becomes almost unimaginable. The emerging technology related to the integration of the IoT and AI has resulted in intelligent clothing in the fashion retail industry. Intelligent clothing technology can be defined as a result of transformation of fabric into digital technology by bridging fashion and the IoT with newly developed material technologies. However, recent studies on intelligent clothing have been few and far between, and scholars have focused more on organizations' intention to adopt intelligent clothing technology rather than customers' intention to use it. The current research fills this gap by applying the Hedonic Information Systems Acceptance Model (HISAM) to determine the practical and aesthetic factors influencing consumers' propensity to use intelligent clothing. Furthermore, technology readiness has been investigated as a technology-related personality trait acting as a moderator in the research model. Accordingly, a quantitative survey strategy was undertaken and responses from a representative sample of 836 Sri Lankan retail consumers were analysed using Smart PLS-SEM. The results reveal that perceived ease of use, perceived usefulness and perceived enjoyment positively influence intention to use artificially intelligent clothing, whilst technology readiness interestingly moderates their impact on the intention to use AI clothing. The findings have theoretical and practical implications for marketing scholars and practitioners and point to several future research directions as well. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The Fashion City exhibition at the London Museum Docklands explores the impact of Jewish Londoners on global fashion. The exhibition showcases the stories, lives, and products of famous and forgotten Jewish designers, highlighting London's development as a fashion capital through the lens of immigration. The exhibition is divided into sections that depict the experiences of Jewish immigrants, the development of the fashion sector in London's East End, and the role of Jewish entrepreneurs in fashion retail. It also explores the broader history of immigration in London and the involvement of other migrant communities in the fashion industry. The exhibition is well-researched and curated, providing a comprehensive understanding of the Jewish community's contribution to London's fashion scene. [Extracted from the article]

This study investigates the evaluation of risks faced by employees in a selected large-scale apparel mill using a risk assessment method with a fuzzy logic approach. The study found that risk assessment in the apparel industry is more accurate and reliable when using a fuzzy logic approach. Measurements were taken in three different time periods for noise, vibration, thermal comfort and lighting, which are physical risk factors. To evaluate the identified failure modes, the Failure Mode and Effects Analysis (FMEA) method was first applied. Then, for the same failure modes, the fuzzy FMEA method was applied using Fuzzy Logic Designer, an add-on to MATLAB. The study concludes that the fuzzy FMEA method can be a more useful method for risk assessment in the apparel industry. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The global fashion industry is undergoing rapid digitisation in which new Industry 4.0 technologies are changing the way fashion is designed and produced. The Australian fashion industry is considered to be slow in adopting these new technologies. The purpose of this research study is to investigate the current acceptability of Industry 4.0 technologies and the barriers to adoption within Australia. Data from forty-nine fashion organisations were obtained using a technology acceptance model (TAM) survey and a series of ten semi-structured interviews. The TAM survey results indicate that the industry accepts Industry 4.0 technologies to be useful and somewhat easy to use; however, technologies such as autonomous robotics, sensor and digital twin technologies are currently underutilised. Providing further insight, the interviews highlighted the key barriers to be the lack of industry leadership, misaligned knowledge and skills within higher education, and issues in the accessibility and scalability of technical skills and capabilities. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This study examines the development of apparel firms in Tajikistan. Since Tajikistan is the lowest-income country in Central Asia, its innovation system is rather limited. Instead, international donors play a complementary role in the knowledge sourcing of the apparel industry. Moreover, the technological capabilities of individual firms are critically important for industrial upgrading. Based on a survey of 25 apparel firms, this study identifies three trajectories for the upgrading of Tajikistan's apparel firms and examines the government's policy dilemma between the creation of export competitiveness and the need for indirect protection for the domestic apparel industry. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The capability to generate simulation‐ready garment models from 3D shapes of clothed people will significantly enhance the interpretability of captured geometry of real garments, as well as their faithful reproduction in the digital world. This will have notable impact on fields like shape capture in social VR, and virtual try‐on in the fashion industry. To align with the garment modeling process standardized by the fashion industry and cloth simulation software, it is required to recover 2D patterns, which are then placed around the wearer's body model and seamed prior to the draping simulation. This involves an inverse garment design problem, which is the focus of our work here: Starting with an arbitrary target garment geometry, our system estimates its animatable replica along with its corresponding 2D pattern. Built upon a differentiable cloth simulator, it runs an optimization process that is directed towards minimizing the deviation of the simulated garment shape from the target geometry, while maintaining desirable properties such as left‐to‐right symmetry. Experimental results on various real‐world and synthetic data show that our method outperforms state‐of‐the‐art methods in producing both high‐quality garment models and accurate 2D patterns. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This paper analyses labour and social reproduction conditions in Bolivian immigrant garment industry sweatshops in São Paulo, Brazil. The analysis contributes to an understanding of the ways in which precarious labour is articulated with a simultaneous precarization of social reproduction. Working conditions in Bolivian immigrant sweatshops include 14-hour or longer workdays, piece-work, low wages and unsafe working environments. Based on the life stories of three Bolivian women migrants in São Paulo, I spotlight the gender-based arrangements of paid work and reproduction upon which the sweatshops are predicated and further detail the reproductive conditions within these sweatshops, which tend to be uncomfortable, unsafe and unhealthy for workers as well as owners. These arrangements blur the dividing lines between the home and the workplace, as well as the distinctions between paid labour and social reproduction. Through this empirical work, I argue that social reproduction can make labour more precarious in contexts such as this one. I further contend that the crisis of social reproduction in peripheric countries extends beyond the retreat of the welfare state, rather constituting a generalized precarization of reproductive conditions that both supports and is supported by extremely precarized labour. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]