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Introduction. Recent meta-analyses on compression garments have reported faster recovery of muscle function particularly after intense eccentric power or resistance exercise. However, due to the complex interaction between cohorts included, exercises involved and compression applied, recovery length and modalities, and outcome parameters selected, only limited practical recommendations can be drawn from these studies. Thus, our aim was to determine the effect of compression tights on recovery from high mechanical and metabolic stress monitored over a longer recovery period. Material and Methods. Using a crossover design, 19 resistance-trained 4th/5th Division German handball players (31.3±7.7 years; 24.1±3.8 kg/m2) were randomly assigned at the start of the project to the compression tight (recovery-pro-tights, cep, Bayreuth, Germany) or the control group. Immediately after a combined lower extremity resistance training and electromyostimulation, participants had to wear compression tights. Compression was applied initially for 24 h and then 12 h intermitted by 12 h of nonuse for a total of 96 h. Primary study endpoint was maximum isokinetic hip/leg-extensor strength (MIES) as determined by a leg-press. Secondary endpoint was lower extremity power as assessed by a counter movement jump. Follow-up assessments were conducted 24, 48, 72, and 96 h postexercise. Outcomes were analyzed using a linear mixed effect model with spherical symmetric within-condition correlation. Results. All 19 participants underwent their allocated treatment and passed through the project strictly according to the study protocol. MIES demonstrated significantly (p=0.003) lower overall reductions (155 N) after wearing compression tights. In parallel, lower extremity power significantly (p<0.001) varies between both conditions with lower reductions in favor of the compression condition. Of importance, full recovery for lower extremity muscle strength or power was still not reached 96 h postexercise. Conclusion. Based on our results we recommend athletes wear compression tights for faster recovery, particularly after intense exercise with a pronounced eccentric aspect. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Indoor bouldering consists of low height climbing sequences completed without ropes on artificial walls with landing mats for protection. Although bouldering is increasingly popular and competitive, scientific research remains sparse and information on ideal training regimens is limited. The aim of this study was to investigate the effect of interval bouldering on hanging and climbing time to subjective exhaustion. Twenty-four men, highly advanced boulderers (25.2 ± 4.8 years; 1.77 ± 0.07 m; 69.1 ± 5.3 kg; 6.8 ± 3.1 years climbing; 7b Fontainebleau bouldering ability), were randomly allocated to a 4-week interval bouldering (IB withn = 12) and conventional bouldering (CB withn = 12) training regimen. Pre- and posttests consisted of intermittent finger hangs (IFH) and climbing time to exhaustion (CTE). Results indicate significant higher IFH times after 4-week regimen for IB (+27.3 ± 18.4 s,t11 = − 5.16,P < .001), but not for CB (+4.9 ± 11.5 s,t11 = − 1.47,P = .168). Moreover, a significant higher CTE was displayed for IB (+36.2 ± 14.1 s,t11 = − 8.85,P < .001), but not for CB (6.1 ± 19.3 s,t11 = − 1.09,P = .298). These findings suggest that IB is a highly effective method to increase hanging and climbing time to exhaustion in competitive bouldering. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The article cites a study which investigated the training effects of 4 weeks of fingerboarding (FB) on grip strength and endurance in competitive Bouldering (BL), an independent discipline of sport climbing. These results suggest that FB is highly effective in increasing grip strength and endurance in competitive BL.

During the course of evolution, up until the agricultural revolution, environmental fluctuations forced the human species to develop a flexible metabolism in order to adapt its energy needs to various climate, seasonal and vegetation conditions. Metabolic flexibility safeguarded human survival independent of food availability. In modern times, humans switched their primal lifestyle towards a constant availability of energy-dense, yet often nutrient-deficient, foods, persistent psycho-emotional stressors and a lack of exercise. As a result, humans progressively gain metabolic disorders, such as the metabolic syndrome, type 2 diabetes, non-alcoholic fatty liver disease, certain types of cancer, cardiovascular disease and Alzheimer´s disease, wherever the sedentary lifestyle spreads in the world. For more than 2.5 million years, our capability to store fat for times of food shortage was an outstanding survival advantage. Nowadays, the same survival strategy in a completely altered surrounding is responsible for a constant accumulation of body fat. In this article, we argue that the metabolic epidemic is largely based on a deficit in metabolic flexibility. We hypothesize that the modern energetic inflexibility, typically displayed by symptoms of neuroglycopenia, can be reversed by re-cultivating suppressed metabolic programs, which became obsolete in an affluent environment, particularly the ability to easily switch to ketone body and fat oxidation. In a simplified model, the basic metabolic programs of humans' primal hunter-gatherer lifestyle are opposed to the current sedentary lifestyle. Those metabolic programs, which are chronically neglected in modern surroundings, are identified and conclusions for the prevention of chronic metabolic diseases are drawn., Competing Interests: Competing interests: No competing interests were declared.