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Turbulence intensity (TI) is often used to quantify the strength of turbulence in wind energy applications and serves as the basis of standards in wind turbine design. Thus, accurately characterizing the spatiotemporal variability in TI should lead to improved predictions of power production. Nevertheless, turbulence measurements over the ocean are far less prevalent than over land due to challenges in instrumental deployment, maintenance, and operation. Atmospheric models such as mesoscale (weather prediction) and large-eddy simulation (LES) models are commonly used in the wind energy industry to assess the spatial variability of a given site. However, the TI derivation from atmospheric models has not been well examined. An algorithm is proposed in this study to realize online calculation of TI in the Weather Research and Forecasting (WRF) model. Simulated TI is divided into two components depending on scale, including sub-grid (parameterized based on turbulence kinetic energy (TKE)) and grid resolved. The sensitivity of sea surface temperature (SST) on simulated TI is also tested. An assessment is performed by using observations collected during a field campaign conducted from February to June 2020 near theWoods Hole Oceanographic Institution Martha's Vineyard Coastal Observatory. Results show that while simulated TKE is generally smaller than the lidar-observed value, wind speed bias is usually small. Overall, this leads to a slight underestimation in sub-grid-scale estimated TI. Improved SST representation subsequently reduces model biases in atmospheric stability as well as wind speed and sub-grid TI near the hub height. Large TI events in conjunction with mesoscale weather systems observed during the studied period pose a challenge to accurately estimating TI from models. Due to notable uncertainty in accurately simulating those events, this suggests summing up sub-grid and resolved TI may not be an ideal solution. Efforts in further improving skills in simulating mesoscale flow and cloud systems are necessary as the next steps. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Understanding variations in the received power levels for land‐based high frequency radar (HFR) systems is critical to advancing radar‐based estimates of winds and waves. We use a long‐term record of one‐way HFR power observations to explore the key factors controlling propagation losses over the ocean. Observed propagation loss was quantified using an 8‐month record of radio frequency power from a shore‐based transmitter, received at two locations: an offshore tower and a nearby island. Observations were compared to environmental factors such as wind speed and air temperature as well as models of path loss incorporating smooth and rough surface impedances and varying atmospheric properties. Significant differences in the observations at the two sites existed. One‐way path loss variations at the tower, a wavelength above mean sea level, were closely related to atmospheric forcing, while variations at the distant island site were dominated by wind‐driven surface gravity wave variability. Seasonal variability in ocean conductivity had no significant effect on over‐ocean path losses. Simplistic analytical models of path loss were found to have more skill than either ground wave propagation models or more complex numerical models of field strength in matching the observations, due in part to under‐observation of the atmosphere but also the differences in rough surface impedance between models of ocean waves. Plain Language Summary: Understanding variations in the returning signal power for coastal ocean current radar systems is critical to enabling radar‐based estimates of winds and waves. We use a long‐term record of direct measurements of received power to examine the variability of the energy losses along the ocean path over time due to changes in the local environment. Received power levels were observed over a period of up to 8 months at both an offshore tower and a nearby island site, with ranges of 7 and 45 km from the transmitter. Changes in the power, due to path losses, varied over timescales of days at both sites, but for different reasons. Variations at the tower were related to air‐sea temperature differences and humidity, but variations at the distant island site were more closely related to changes in ocean wave conditions. Neither were well predicted by advanced numerical models of path loss. The predicted effect of the surface gravity waves on path loss was highly dependent on the estimate of the wavefield used, with simpler representations proving to be more useful. Key Points: One way path loss variations of high frequency ground waves over the ocean are dominated by wind‐driven surface gravity wave variabilitySeasonal variability in ocean conductivity has no detectable effect on over‐ocean path lossesSimplistic analytical models of path loss have more skill than complex numerical models, due in part to under‐observation of the atmosphere [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This study examines the spatial and temporal variability of eddy kinetic energy over the Northeast Shelf using observations of surface currents from a unique array of six high frequency radar systems. Collected during summer and winter conditions over three consecutive years, the horizontal scales present were examined in the context of local wind and hydrographic variability, which were sampled concurrently from moorings and autonomous surface vehicles. While area-averaged mean kinetic energy at the surface was tightly coupled to wind forcing, eddy kinetic energy was not, and was lower in magnitude in winter than summer in all areas. Kinetic energy wavenumber spectral slopes were generally near k-5/3, but varied seasonally, spatially, and between years. In contrast, wavenumber spectra of surface temperature and salinity along repeat transect lines had sharp k-3 spectral slopes with little seasonal or inter-annual variability. Radar-based estimates of spectral kinetic energy fluxes revealed a mean transition scale of energy near 18 km during stratified months, but suggested much longer scales during winter. Overall, eddy kinetic energy was unrelated to local winds, but the up- or down-scale flux of kinetic energy was tied to wind events and, more weakly, to local density gradients. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Previous work with simulations of oceanographic high-frequency (HF) radars has identified possible improvements when using maximum likelihood estimation (MLE) for direction of arrival; however, methods for determining the number of emitters (here defined as spatially distinct patches of the ocean surface) have not realized these improvements. Here we describe and evaluate the use of the likelihood ratio (LR) for emitter detection, demonstrating its application to oceanographic HF radar data. The combined detection–estimation methods MLE-LR are compared with multiple signal classification method (MUSIC) and MUSIC parameters for SeaSonde HF radars, along with a method developed for 8-channel systems known as MUSIC-Highest. Results show that the use of MLE-LR produces similar accuracy, in terms of the RMS difference and correlation coefficients squared, as previous methods. We demonstrate that improved accuracy can be obtained for both methods, at the cost of fewer velocity observations and decreased spatial coverage. For SeaSondes, accuracy improvements are obtained with less commonly used parameter sets. The MLE-LR is shown to be able to resolve simultaneous closely spaced emitters, which has the potential to improve observations obtained by HF radars operating in complex current environments. Significance Statement: We identify and test a method based on the likelihood ratio (LR) for determining the number of signal sources in observations subject to direction finding with maximum likelihood estimation (MLE). Direction-finding methods are used in broad-ranging applications that include radar, sonar, and wireless communication. Previous work suggests accuracy improvements when using MLE, but suitable methods for determining the number of simultaneous signal sources are not well known. Our work shows that the LR, when combined with MLE, performs at least as well as alternative methods when applied to oceanographic high-frequency (HF) radars. In some situations, MLE and LR obtain superior resolution, where resolution is defined as the ability to distinguish closely spaced signal sources. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The processes underlying the strong Kuroshio encountering a cape at the southernmost tip of Taiwan are examined with satellite‐derived chlorophyll and temperature maps, a drifter trajectory, and realistic model simulations. The interaction spurs the formation of submesoscale cyclonic eddies that trap cold and high‐chlorophyll water and the formation of frontal waves between the free stream and the wake flow. An observed train of eddies, which have relative vorticity about one to four times the planetary vorticity (f), is shed from the recirculation that occurs in the immediate lee of the cape as a result of flow separation. These propagate downstream at a speed of 0.5–0.6 m s−1. Farther downstream, the corotation and merging of two or three adjacent eddies are common owing to the topography‐induced slowdown of eddy propagation farther downstream. It is found that the relative vorticity of a corotating system (1.2f) is 70% weaker than that of a single eddy due to the increase of eddy diameter from ~16 to ~33 km, in agreement with Kelvin's circulation theorem. The shedding period of the submesoscale eddies is strongly modulated by either diurnal or semidiurnal tidal flows, which typically reach 0.2–0.5 m s−1, whereas its intrinsic shedding period is insignificant. The frontal waves predominate in the horizontal free shear layer emitted from the cape, as well as a density front. Energetics analysis suggests that the wavy features result primarily from the growth of barotropic instability in the free shear layer, which may play a secondary process in the headland wake. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

While land-based high-frequency (HF) radars are the only instruments capable of resolving both the temporal and spatial variability of surface currents in the coastal ocean, recent high-resolution views suggest that the coastal ocean is more complex than presently deployed radar systems are able to reveal. This work uses a hybrid system, having elements of both phased arrays and direction finding radars, to improve the azimuthal resolution of HF radars. Data from two radars deployed along the U.S. East Coast and configured as 8-antenna grid arrays were used to evaluate potential direction finding and signal, or emitter, detection methods. Direction finding methods such as maximum likelihood estimation generally performed better than the well-known multiple signal classification (MUSIC) method given identical emitter detection methods. However, accurately estimating the number of emitters present in HF radar observations is a challenge. As MUSIC's direction-of-arrival (DOA) function permits simple empirical tests that dramatically aid the detection process, MUSIC was found to be the superior method in this study. The 8-antenna arrays were able to provide more accurate estimates of MUSIC's noise subspace than typical 3-antenna systems, eliminating the need for a series of empirical parameters to control MUSIC's performance. Code developed for this research has been made available in an online repository. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The rapid growth of offshore wind energy requires accurate modeling of the wind resource, which can be depleted by wind farm wakes. Turbulence dissipation rate (ϵ) governs the accuracy of model predictions of hub‐height wind speed and the development and erosion of wakes. Here we assess the variability of turbulence kinetic energy and ϵ using 13 months of observations from a profiling lidar deployed on a platform off the Massachusetts coast. Offshore, ϵ is 2 orders of magnitude smaller than onshore, with a subtle diurnal cycle. Wind direction influences the annual cycle of turbulence, with larger values in winter when the wind flows from the land, and smaller values in summer, when the wind flows from open ocean. Because of the weak turbulence, wind plant wakes will be stronger and persist farther downwind in summer. Key Points: Strength and peturbulence dissipation rate offshore is smaller than onshore, with a weak diurnal cycleDissipation rate is larger when flow is from the land, usually in wintertime at this siteLarge wind veer is often associated with low turbulence at the site [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Circulation patterns over the inner continental shelf can be spatially complex and highly variable in time. However, few studies have examined alongshore variability over short scales of kilometers or less. To observe inner‐shelf bottom temperatures with high (5‐m) horizontal resolution, a fiber‐optic distributed temperature sensing system was deployed along a 5‐km‐long portion of the 15‐m isobath within a larger‐scale mooring array south of Martha's Vineyard, MA. Over the span of 4 months, variability at a range of scales was observed along the cable over time periods of less than a day. Notably, rapid cooling events propagated down the cable away from a tidal mixing front, showing that propagating fronts on the inner shelf can be generated locally near shallow bathymetric features in addition to remote offshore locations. Propagation velocities of observed fronts were influenced by background tidal currents in the alongshore component and show a weak correlation with theoretical gravity current speeds in the cross‐shore component. These events provide a source of cold, dense water into the inner shelf. However, differences in the magnitude and frequency of cooling events at sites separated by a few kilometers in the alongshore direction suggest that the characteristics of small‐scale variability can vary dramatically and can result in differential fluxes of water, heat, and other tracers. Thus, under stratified conditions, prolonged subsurface observations with high spatial and temporal resolution are needed to characterize the implications of three‐dimensional circulation patterns on exchange, especially in regions where the coastline and isobaths are not straight. Plain Language Summary: This study examines in detail how ocean temperature varies along a 5‐km stretch of coastline off of Martha's Vineyard, MA, the site of a long‐term ocean observatory. In addition to the gradual changes in ocean temperature that occur over long distances of hundreds of kilometers or more along the coast, there can also be sharp fronts where temperature changes rapidly over much shorter distances. Little is known about these features because they occur below the surface, move through the ocean, and are often short lived. To learn more about small‐scale fronts and how they change with time, we used traditional oceanographic sensors anchored at a few specific locations and also laid a fiber‐optic cable along the ocean floor at a depth of 15 m. This fiber‐optic system continuously recorded hundreds of simultaneous temperature measurements along the coastline for several months. These measurements show that small‐scale fronts often occur near a shallow shoal where there are strong tidal currents. However, the fronts also travel away from the shoal, causing rapid cooling along the sea floor as they move. Because of these subsurface fronts, temperature measurements at just one location may not be representative of other nearby locations just a few kilometers away. Key Points: Subsurface fronts are generated by the interaction of tides, stratification, and shallow bathymetryFiber‐optic bottom temperature sensing detects propagation of subsurface frontsCharacteristics of high‐frequency temperature variability vary dramatically over short alongshore scales [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

For direction-finding high-frequency (HF) radar systems, the correct separation of backscattered spectral energy due to Bragg resonant waves from that due to more complex double-scattering represents a critical first step toward attaining accurate estimates of surface currents from the range-dependent radar backscatter. Existing methods to identify this 'first order' region of the spectra, generally sufficient for lower-frequency radars and low-velocity or low-surface gravity wave conditions, are more likely to fail in higher-frequency systems or locations with more variable current, wave, or noise regimes, leading to elevated velocity errors. An alternative methodology is presented that uses a single and globally relevant smoothing length scale, careful pretreatment of the spectra, and marker-controlled watershed segmentation, an image processing technique, to separate areas of spectral energy due to surface currents from areas of spectral energy due to more complex scattering by the wave field or background noise present. Applied to a number of HF radar datasets with a range of operating frequencies and characteristic issues, the new methodology attains a higher percentage of successful first-order identification, particularly during complex current and wave conditions. As operational radar systems continue to expand to more systematically cover areas of high marine traffic, close approaches to ports and harbors, or offshore energy installations, use of this type of updated methodology will become increasingly important to attain accurate current estimates that serve both research and operational interests. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The occurrence, drivers, and implications of small-scale O(2-5) km diameter coherent vortices, referred to as submesoscale eddies, over the inner shelf south of Martha's Vineyard, Massachusetts, are examined using high-frequency (HF), radar-based, high-resolution (400 m) observations of surface currents. Within the 300 km2 study area, eddies occurred at rates of 1 and 4 day−1 in winter and summer, respectively. Most were less than 5 h in duration, smaller than 4 km in diameter, and rotated less than once over their lifespan; 60% of the eddies formed along the eastern edge of study area, adjacent to Wasque Shoal, and moved westward into the interior, often with relative vorticity greater than f. Eddy generation was linked to vortex stretching on the ebb and flood tide as well as the interaction of the spatially variable tide and the wind-driven currents; however, these features had complex patterns of surface divergence and stretching. Eddies located away from Wasque Shoal were related to the movement of wind-driven surface currents, as wind direction controlled where eddies formed as well as density effects. Using an analysis of particles advected within the radar-based surface currents, the observed eddies were found to be generally leaky, losing 60%-80% of particles over their lifespan, but still more retentive than the background flow. As a result, the combined translation and rotational effects of the observed eddies were an important source of lateral exchange for surface waters over the inner shelf. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The calibration and validation of a novel approach to remotely sense surface winds using land-based high-frequency (HF) radar systems are described. Potentially available on time scales of tens of minutes and spatial scales of 2-3 km for wide swaths of the coastal ocean, HF radar-based surface wind observations would greatly aid coastal ocean planners, researchers, and operational stakeholders by providing detailed real-time estimates and climatologies of coastal winds, as well as enabling higher-quality short-term forecasts of the spatially dependent wind field. Such observations are particularly critical for the developing offshore wind energy community. An autonomous surface vehicle was deployed within the Massachusetts Wind Energy Area, located south of Martha's Vineyard, Massachusetts, for one month, collecting wind observations that were used to test models of wind-wave spreading and HF radar energy loss, thereby empirically relating radar-measured power to surface winds. HF radar-based extractions of the remote wind speed had accuracies of 1.4 m s−1 for winds less than 7 m s−1, within the optimal range of the radar frequency used. Accuracies degraded at higher winds due to low signal-to-noise ratios in the returned power and poor resolution of the model. Pairing radar systems with a range of transmit frequencies with adjustments of the extraction model for additional power and environmental factors would resolve many of the errors observed. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In situ observations of turbulent momentum flux, or Reynolds stresses, were estimated from a 10-yr acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP) record of inner-shelf velocities at the Martha's Vineyard Coastal Observatory (MVCO) using recently developed analysis techniques that account for wave-induced biases. These observations were used to examine the vertical structure of stress and turbulent mixing in the coastal ocean during tidal-, wave-, and wind-driven circulation by conditionally averaging the dataset by the level of forcing or stratification present. Bottom-intensified stresses were found during tidally driven flow, having estimated eddy viscosities as high as 1 × 10−2 m−2 s−1 during slack water. An assessment of the mean, low-wave, low-wind stress results quantified the magnitude of an unmeasured body force responsible for the mean circulation present in the absence of wind and wave forcing. During weak stratification and isolated wind forcing, downwind stresses matched the observed wind stress near the surface and generally decreased with depth linearly for both along- and across-shelf wind forcing. While consistent with simple models of circulation during across-shelf wind forcing, the linear slope of the stress profile present during along-shelf wind forcing requires the existence of an along-shelf pressure gradient that scales with the wind forcing. At increased levels of stratification, the observed downwind stresses generally weakened and shifted to the across-wind direction during across-shelf and mixed-direction (i.e., onshore and along shelf) wind forcing consistent with Ekman spiral modification, but were more variable during along-shelf wind forcing. No measurable stresses were found due to wave-forced conditions, confirming previous theoretical results. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The spatial structure of the tidal and background circulation over the inner shelf south of Martha's Vineyard, Massachusetts, was investigated using observations from a high-resolution, high-frequency coastal radar system, paired with satellite SSTs and in situ ADCP velocities. Maximum tidal velocities for the dominant semidiurnal constituent increased from 5 to 35 cm s−1 over the 20-km-wide domain with phase variations up to 60°. A northeastward jet along the eastern edge and a recirculation region inshore dominated the annually averaged surface currents, along with a separate along-shelf jet offshore. Owing in part to this variable circulation, the spatial structure of seasonal SST anomalies had implications for the local heat balance. Cooling owing to the advective heat flux divergence was large enough to offset more than half of the seasonal heat gain owing to surface heat flux. Tidal stresses were the largest terms in the mean along- and across-shelf momentum equations in the area of the recirculation, with residual wind stress and the Coriolis term dominating to the west and south, respectively. The recirculation was strongest in summer, with mean winds and tidal stresses accounting for much of the differences between summer and winter mean circulation. Despite the complex bathymetry and short along-shelf spatial scales, a simple model of tidal rectification was able to recreate the features of the northeastward jet and match an estimate of the across-shelf structure of sea surface height inferred from the residual of the momentum analysis. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

There is now a large installed base of high-frequency (HF) coastal ocean radars in the United States able to measure surface currents on an operational basis. However, these instruments also have the potential to provide estimates of the spatially variable surface wind field over distances ranging from 10 to 200 km offshore. This study investigates the ability of direction-finding HF radars to recover spatial maps of wind speed and direction from the dominant first-order region radar returns using empirical models. Observations of radar backscatter from the Martha's Vineyard Coastal Observatory HF radar system were compared to wind observations from an offshore tower, finding significant correlations between wind speed and the backscatter power for a range of angles between the wind and radar loop directions. Models for the directional spreading of wind waves were analyzed in comparison to data-based results, finding potentially significant differences between the model and data-based spreading relationships. Using empirical fits, radar-based estimates of wind speed and direction at the location of the in situ wind sensor had error rates of 2 m/s and 60°, which decreased with hourly averaging. Attempts to extrapolate the results to the larger domain illustrated that spatially dependent transfer functions for wind speed and direction appear possible for large coastal ocean domains based on a small number of temporary, or potentially mobile, in situ wind sensors. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Estimates of surface currents over the continental shelf are now regularly made using high-frequency radar (HFR) systems along much of the U.S. coastline. The recently deployed HFR system at the Martha's Vineyard Coastal Observatory (MVCO) is a unique addition to these systems, focusing on high spatial resolution over a relatively small coastal ocean domain with high accuracy. However, initial results from the system showed sizable errors and biased estimates of M2 tidal currents, prompting an examination of new methods to improve the quality of radar-based velocity data. The analysis described here utilizes the radial metric output of CODAR Ocean Systems version 7 release of the SeaSonde Radial Site Software Suite to examine both the characteristics of the received signal and the output of the direction-finding algorithm to provide data quality controls on the estimated radial currents that are independent of the estimated velocity. Additionally, the effect of weighting spatial averages of radials falling within the same range and azimuthal bin is examined to account for differences in signal quality. Applied to two month-long datasets from the MVCO high-resolution system, these new methods are found to improve the rms difference comparisons with in situ current measurements by up to 2 cm s-1, as well as reduce or eliminate observed biases of tidal ellipses estimated using standard methods. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Turbulent Reynolds stresses are now routinely estimated from acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP) measurements in estuaries and tidal channels using the variance method, yet biases due to surface gravity waves limit its use in the coastal ocean. Recent modifications to this method, including spatially filtering velocities to isolate the turbulence from wave velocities and fitting a cospectral model to the below-wave band cospectra, have been used to remove this bias. Individually, each modification performed well for the published test datasets, but a comparative analysis over the range of conditions in the coastal ocean has not yet been performed. This work uses ADCP velocity measurements from five previously published coastal ocean and estuarine datasets, which span a range of wave and current conditions as well as instrument configurations, to directly compare methods for estimating stresses in the presence of waves. The computed stresses from each were compared to bottom stress estimates from a quadratic drag law and, where available, estimates of wind stress. These comparisons, along with an analysis of the cospectra, indicated that spectral fitting performs well when the wave climate is wide-banded and/or multidirectional as well as when instrument noise is high. In contrast, spatial filtering performs better when waves are narrow-banded, low frequency, and when wave orbital velocities are strong relative to currents. However, as spatial filtering uses vertically separated velocity bins to remove the wave bias, spectral fitting is able to resolve stresses over a larger fraction of the water column. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Recently, the velocity observations of acoustic Doppler current profilers (ADCPs) have been successfully used to estimate turbulent Reynolds stresses in estuaries and tidal channels. However, the presence of surface gravity waves can significantly bias stress estimates, limiting application of the technique in the coastal ocean. This work describes a new approach to estimate Reynolds stresses from ADCP velocities obtained in the presence of waves. The method fits an established semiempirical model of boundary layer turbulence to the measured turbulent cospectra at frequencies below those of surface gravity waves to estimate the stress. Applied to ADCP observations made in weakly stratified waters and variable significant wave heights, estimated near-bottom and near-surface stresses using this method compared well with independent estimates of the boundary stresses in contrast to previous methods. Additionally, the vertical structure of tidal stress estimated using the new approach matched that inferred from a linear momentum balance at stress levels below the estimated stress uncertainties. Because the method makes an estimate of the horizontal turbulent length scales present as part of the model fit, these results can also enable a direct correction for the mean bias errors resulting from instrument tilt, if these scales are long relative to the beam separation. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Recent work by S. Lentz et al. documents offshore transport in the inner shelf due to a wave-driven return flow associated with the Hasselmann wave stress (the Stokes–Coriolis force). This analysis is extended using observations from the central Oregon coast to identify the wave-driven return flow present and quantify the potential bias of wind-driven across-shelf exchange by unresolved wave-driven circulation. Using acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP) measurements at six stations, each in water depths of 13–15 m, observed depth-averaged, across-shelf velocities were generally correlated with theoretical estimates of the proposed return flow. During times of minimal wind forcing, across-shelf velocity profiles were vertically sheared, with stronger velocities near the top of the measured portion of the water column, and increased in magnitude with increasing significant wave height, consistent with circulation due to the Hasselmann wave stress. Yet velocity magnitudes and vertical shears were stronger than that predicted by linear wave theory, and more similar to the stratified “summer” velocity profiles described by S. Lentz et al. Additionally, substantial temporal and spatial variability of the wave-driven return flow was found, potentially due to changing wind and wave conditions as well as local bathymetric variability. Despite the wave-driven circulation found, subtracting estimates of the return flow from the observed across-shelf velocity had no significant effect on estimates of the across-shelf exchange due to along-shelf wind forcing at these water depths along the Oregon coast during summer. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The spatial and temporal variability of inner-shelf circulation along the central Oregon coast during the 2004 upwelling season is described using a 70-km-long array of moorings along the 15-m isobath. Circulation at three stations located onshore of a submarine bank differed from that of a station north of the bank, despite the relatively uniform wind forcing and inner-shelf bathymetry present. During upwelling-favorable winds, strong southward alongshelf flow occurred north of the bank, no alongshelf flow occurred onshore of the northern part of the bank, and increasing southward flow occurred onshore of the southern part of the bank. During downwelling-favorable winds, strong northward flow occurred in the inner shelf onshore of the bank while weak flow occurred north of the bank. These alongshelf differences in inner-shelf circulation were due to the effects of the bank, which isolated the inner shelf onshore of the bank from the regional upwelling circulation that was evident at the northernmost station. As a result, circulation onshore of the bank was driven primarily by local wind forcing, while flow north of the bank was only partially driven by local winds. A secondary mode of variability, attributed to the movement of the regional upwelling jet due to remote forcings, contributed the bulk of the variability observed north of the bank. With the time-dependent wind forcing present, acceleration was an important term in the depth-averaged alongshelf momentum equation at all stations. During upwelling, bottom stress and acceleration opposed the wind stress north of the bank, while bottom stress was weaker onshore of the bank where the across-shelf momentum flux and the alongshelf pressure gradient balanced the residual of the acceleration and stresses. During downwelling, waters onshore of the bank surged northward at magnitudes much larger than that found north of the bank. These spatial variations developed as the season progressed and the regional upwelling circulation intensified, explaining known variations in growth and recruitment of nearshore invertebrate species. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The event-scale variability of across-shelf transport was investigated using observations made in 15 m of water on the central Oregon inner shelf. In a study area with intermittently upwelling-favorable winds and significant density stratification, hydrographic and velocity observations show rapid across-shelf movement of water masses over event time scales of 2–7 days. To understand the time variability of across-shelf exchange, an inverse calculation was used to estimate eddy viscosity and the vertical turbulent diffusion of momentum from velocity profiles and wind forcing. Depth-averaged eddy viscosity varied over a large dynamic range, but averaged 1.3 × 10-3 m2 s-1 during upwelling winds and 2.1 × 10-3 m2 s-1 during downwelling winds. The fraction of full Ekman transport present in the surface layer, a measure of the efficiency of across-shelf exchange at this water depth, was a strong function of eddy viscosity and wind forcing, but not stratification. Transport fractions ranged from 60%, during times of weak or variable wind forcing and low eddy viscosity, to 10%–20%, during times of strong downwelling and high eddy viscosity. The difference in eddy viscosities between upwelling and downwelling led to varying across-shelf exchange efficiencies and, potentially, increased net upwelling over time. These results quantify the variability of across-shelf transport efficiency and have significant implications for ecological processes (e.g., larval transport) in the inner shelf. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]