French politics has often required conceptualising a coherent centre, a global référentiel, a sense of direction, of scalar hierarchy, of equal treatment, of inalienable rights guaranteed by state acting in the general interest. Whether in terms of citizenship, state-group relations, elitism or territorial administration, France has usually been seen to represent a centralising statist pole amongst European states. The general context of our study is one of the reconfiguration of European states, a core tenet in the abundant academic literature on governance. All definitions of governance start from the weakening of older forms of vertical statist regulation. Governance narratives recognise complexity, contingency and diversity far more than traditional politico-administrative models, which insisted upon the uniform application of rules. As France is typically portrayed as the ideal-type of a European country with a centralising state tradition, it provides an excellent empirical terrain for testing some of the claims of governance and their limits. Understanding contemporary governance, in France and in Europe, requires us also to reflect about the nature of territory, inter-governmental relations and public administration.The questions addressed by this communication are simple ones that are difficult to answer. Is France still centralised? Was France ever as centralised as orthodox representations imply? How best might the process of decentralisation in France be interpreted? How does France stand in comparison with its neighbours? What does the case of decentralisation tell us about the broader picture of France's bounded governance? The paper starts with an overview of the history of centralisation and decentralisation in France. It then proceeds to observe centralisation and decentralisation through the three distinctive lenses of central state steering, local and regional capacity building, and compound identities. It concludes by offering preferred explanations for understanding centralisation and decentralisation, by situating this case study within the more general theme of Governing and Administrating in France and by offering perspectives on France's bounded governance. The paper focuses first and foremost upon Governing, using centralisation and decentralisation as the angles through which capacity building is constructed at the levels of the central state, in terms of intergovernmental relations and by local and regional authorities. The theme of Administrating is dealt with as part of the development of local and regional capacity, the core argument of the paper. The theme of governing capacity building is derived logically from a governance approach. Capacity can not merely be read from narrow legal rules or institutional understandings of appropriate behaviour, but is intricately interwoven with territorial configurations, coalitions, opportunity structures and the ability to undertake strategic choices. Though capacity can have a constructed dimension (for example, the local policy repertoires that shape understandings amongst territorial coalitions, or perceptions of social capital), it also rests on 'objective' criteria, such as the local political economy, legal competencies and overarching models of regulation. Capacity building in France's regions and localities has been driven by the emergence of more cohesive local government structures, the development of local technical expertise and bureaucratic resources, more networked practices, the strengthening of local political leadership and the invention of more entrepreneurial forms of policy-making. ..PAT.-Unpublished Manuscript [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]