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Nearshore incised valleys are important conduits for the transport of sediment, nutrients, pollutants and organic carbon from the continents to the sea. Therefore, it is essential to understand the autogenic evolution of deltas confined within incised valleys and how such evolution is affected by relative sea‐level rise. To date, limited research has focused on how deltas constrained by incised valleys or other forms of antecedent topography respond to rising sea level. An existing theory of autostratigraphy envisages scenarios in which two‐dimensional or unconfined three‐dimensional fan deltas can experience three evolutionary stages under constant rates of relative sea‐level rise and sediment supply: progradation, autoretreat and post‐autobreak transgression. In this work, an integrated study of geometric numerical models and physical experiments is undertaken to investigate autostratigraphic delta evolution for a variety of incised‐valley geometries, under conditions of constant rates of relative sea‐level rise and sediment supply. Results indicate that interplays of antecedent topography (valley geometries) and sediment mass balance expressed in resultant deltaic geometries can result in autogenic changes in shoreline dynamics and river avulsion frequency on deltas. The following primary findings arise. (i) Compared to valleys with rectangular and trapezoidal cross‐sectional profiles, valleys with triangular cross‐sections tend to contain deltas that experience faster rates of progradation, autoretreat and post‐autobreak transgression under rising sea level, and exhibit a more prominent convex‐seaward shoreline trajectory. (ii) The shoreline trajectory is also related to delta topset geometry, becoming more convex‐seaward under decreasing topset slopes. (iii) River avulsion frequency on deltas with rising sea level varies markedly across valleys with different geometries, even under the same rate of relative sea‐level rise; this is attributed to the difference in temporal evolution of shoreline migration for different valley geometries and the resultant difference in the delta topset aggradation. This study highlights complexities in responses of sedimentary systems under the confinement of different topographic configurations that have hitherto largely been overlooked in sequence‐stratigraphic models. The findings provide insight into future shoreline behaviour and river avulsion hazard on confined deltas, and for decoding the stratigraphic record. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Beach–dune systems are highly dynamic features of the coastal system, the evolution of which is influenced by several processes that occur at very different spatial and temporal scales. To mitigate shoreline retreat that threatens extensive coastal areas worldwide, coastal erosion mitigation measures are implemented, aiming to make coastal areas resilient to the effects induced by coastal erosion and the anticipated climate change related to storms, flood events and sea level rise. Numerical modelling can support planned and sustainable coastal management from a medium-to-long-term perspective (decades). This research focuses on presenting contributions regarding the numerical modelling of subaerial beach dynamics (berm width and dune systems interactions) from a medium-term perspective. The method applied is based on a combination of the results of two simplified numerical models (the LTC and CS-Model). The results demonstrate the potential of the proposed combined model for medium-term projections, allowing for the interpretation of beach–dune dynamics and the evaluation of the importance of longshore and cross-shore sediment transport processes. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

As escalating environmental pressures threaten the world's beaches, understanding the driving factors influencing their geomorphological changes is of critical global importance. This study focuses on the morphological changes of Sigeng beach adjacent to Changhua River Mouth in Hainan Island, China through decadal monitoring of shoreline and profile topography and tries to illuminate the natural and anthropogenic factors that drove geomorphological changes. The results showed that Sigeng beach undergone significant changes between 2008 and 2024, with notable accretion at the northernmost and southernmost and general erosion at other sections. The shoreline change rates ranged between -18.4 m/yr and 13.0 m/yr, with the average rate of -1.9 m/yr, indicating overall erosion. The net longshore sediment transport (LST) rates along Sigeng beach was estimated through the combination of the cross-shore (profile) and longshore (shoreline) changes. The overall direction of net LST along the beach were southward, except for the northern section where the direction was northward due to the diffraction of NE waves by the long sand spit at the northernmost. The net LST rates at each profile varied from 0.8×104 m³/yr to 3.5×104 m³/yr. The main factors controlling Sigeng beach evolution, including seasonal wave action and reduction in fluvial sediment load, followed by sand spit and coastal structures, typhoon events, aeolian transport, and sea level rise, were discussed. Subsequently, adaptive protection measures, including beach nourishment, accompanied with groin system or multiple detached breakwaters were proposed to combat with beach erosion. The analysis presented in this study is helpful to understand the morphodynamics and to predict the future change of beaches. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The Philippines has dynamically active coastal areas where sediment transport is a matter of concern due to its environmental implications, one of which is coastal erosion. Local studies have used seasonal beach profiling, shoreline tracing, and bathymetric analysis to provide relevant information on possible causes, trends, and adaptation strategies to address coastal erosion, but studies using numerical modelling of morphological dynamics are limited despite its capability to quantify different processes that is essential when an engineering intervention is necessary. This study uses numerical modelling in assessing coastal erosion and aims to model the hydrodynamics, waves, sediment transport and morphological dynamics of the study area using Delft3D. A 3-dimensional, coupled FLOW and WAVE model was set-up and calibrated to assess the transport of sediments and morphological dynamics in Ibajay, Aklan, one of the areas tagged as experiencing coastal erosion due to the presence of identifying physical features. The model was calibrated by comparing simulation results with measured time-series water level, bottom velocity, and wave parameters obtained from field surveys. Good agreement with measured parameters was observed after calibration, with root-mean-square-error of less than 10% of range of observed values at an observation point located 100 m off the coast at a depth of 8 m. The calibrated model was run for one year under prevailing (non-extreme) wind and wave conditions. Results showed two transport patterns caused by breaking of waves and strong currents near the lateral boundaries. It was determined that the shore is accreting with some erosion observed on the lateral boundaries caused by tidal asymmetry. Dry season months from November to April exhibited more active cross-shore transport due to intensifying of waves brought by the northeast monsoon while recovery of sand was observed during calmer conditions the rest of the year. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Coastal erosion poses significant challenges to shoreline management, exacerbated by rising sea levels and changing climate patterns. This study investigates the influence of gap spacing between semicircular coastal defence structures on shoreline dynamics during storm events. The innovative design of these structures aims to induce a drift reversal of prevalent sediment transport while avoiding interruption of alongshore sediment drift, thus protecting the beach. Three different gap spacings, ranging from 152 m to 304 m, were analysed using the XBeach numerical model, focusing on storm morphodynamic behaviour. Methodologically, hydrodynamic and morphodynamic analyses were conducted to understand variations in significant wave heights adjacent to the structures, in accretion and erosion volumes, and changes in bed level under storm conditions. The study aims to elucidate the complex interaction between engineered coastal protection solutions and natural coastal processes, providing practical insights for coastal management practices. Results indicate that installing semicircular coastal defence structures influences sediment dynamics during storm events, effectively protecting stretches of the coast at risk. Optimal gap spacing between structures is crucial to mitigating coastal erosion and enhancing sediment accumulation, offering a sustainable shoreline protection approach. The findings underscore the importance of balanced location selection to optimize protection benefits while minimizing adverse morphological effects. Overall, this research contributes to advancing knowledge of hydro-morphological phenomena essential for effective coastal engineering and informs the design and implementation of more sustainable coastal protection strategies in the face of increasing coastal erosion and sea level rise challenges. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Numerical modeling of wave transformation, hydrodynamics, and morphodynamics in coastal regions holds paramount significance for combating coastal erosion by evaluating and optimizing various coastal protection structures. This study aims to present an integration of numerical models to accurately simulate the coastal processes with the presence of coastal and harbor structures. Specifically, integrated modeling employs an advanced mild slope model as the main driver, which is capable of describing all the wave transformation phenomena, including wave reflection. This model provides radiation stresses as inputs to a hydrodynamic model based on Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes equations to simulate nearshore currents. Ultimately, these models feed an additional model that can simulate longshore sediment transport and bed level changes. The models are validated against experimental measurements, including energy dissipation due to bottom friction and wave breaking; combined refraction, diffraction, and breaking over a submerged shoal; wave transformation and wave-generated currents over submerged breakwaters; and wave, currents, and sediment transport fields over a varying bathymetry. The models exhibit satisfactory performance in simulating all considered cases, establishing them as efficient and reliable integrated tools for engineering applications in real coastal areas. Moreover, leveraging the validated models, a numerical investigation is undertaken to assess the effects of wave reflection on a seawall on coastal processes for two ideal beach configurations—one with a steeper slope of 1:10 and another with a milder slope of 1:50. The numerical investigation reveals that the presence of reflected waves, particularly in milder bed slopes, significantly influences sediment transport, emphasizing the importance of employing a wave model that takes into account wave reflection as the primary driver for integrated modeling of coastal processes. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Numerical models can be powerful tools for evaluating the best scenarios for the construction of artificial nourishments to mitigate coastal erosion. Until recent decades, when looking at medium- to long-term simulations, cross-shore and alongshore processes have been studied separately. Accounting for both processes in a shoreline evolution numerical model would improve the understanding and predictive capacity of future changes in coastline evolution. The AX-COAST project aims to develop new capacities in modeling cross-shore sediment transport processes by adding the CS-Model, a cross-shore numerical model, into the existing LTC (Long-Term Configuration) model. The LTC model is a shoreline evolution numerical model which is a module of the cost–benefit assessment tool COAST. This work presents the first steps of the CS-Model implementation, which involve evaluating its performance by calibrating the model with extensive measured datasets of wave climate, beach profiles, tide levels, etc., from coastal areas in IJmuiden and Sand Motor in the Netherlands. The results show good agreement between modeled and observed values. Additionally, wave climate datasets derived from global and regional wave models were considered to evaluate modeling performance at IJmuiden. Using derived timeseries from the wave models did not significantly lead to different results compared to using measured data. The obtained mean absolute and relative errors for each profile were low for both types of datasets. Calibration processes with consistent data are important in modeling simulations to accurately represent the study area and ensure the credibility of future simulations. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This document is a compilation of various scientific articles and studies related to coastal engineering, beach nourishment, and shoreline dynamics. The references cover a wide range of topics, including the impacts of nourishment on shoreline response, the use of nature-based solutions for coastal erosion, and the effects of submerged breakwaters. They also discuss the role of waves, sediment transport, and beach profile change in beach nourishment, as well as the effects of nourishment on benthic fauna and the vulnerability of beaches to sea level rise. These references provide valuable information for researchers and decision-makers interested in these subjects. [Extracted from the article]

Developed barrier systems (barrier islands and spits) are lowering and narrowing with sea‐level rise (SLR) such that habitation will eventually become infeasible or prohibitively expensive for most communities in its current form. Before reaching this state, choices will be made to modify the natural and built environment to reduce relatively short‐term risk. These choices will likely vary substantially even along the same developed barrier system as these landscapes are rarely uniformly managed alongshore. Building on the results from a companion paper, here we use a new modeling framework to investigate the complexities in barrier system dynamics that emerge as a function of alongshore variability in management strategies, accelerations in SLR, and changes in storm intensity and frequency. Model results suggest that when connected through alongshore sediment transport, barriers with alongshore variable management strategies—here, the construction of dunes and wide beaches to protect either roadways or communities—evolve differently than they would in the absence of alongshore connections. Shoreline stabilization by communities in one location influences neighboring areas managed solely for roadways, inducing long‐term system‐wide lags in shoreline retreat. Conversely, when barrier segments managed for roadways are allowed to overwash, this induces shoreline curvature system‐wide, thus enhancing erosion on nearby stabilized segments. Feedbacks between dunes, storms, overwash flux, and alongshore sediment transport also affect outcomes of climate adaptation measures. In the case of partial, early abandonment of roadway management, we find that system‐wide transitions to less vulnerable landscape states are possible, even under accelerated SLR and increased storminess. Plain Language Summary: Because humans inhabit barrier islands and spits (collectively referred to as "barriers") these landscapes, that would otherwise naturally change shape in response to storms and sea‐level rise (SLR), are influenced by efforts to protect development with wide beaches and tall dunes. These features interfere with a process called overwash, which transports sand landward during storms, building barrier elevation relative to sea level. Here, we use a new model to better understand how these interactions influence the habitability of barriers over time. Our simulations show that different management decisions made for adjacent coastal segments affect each other in positive and negative ways. When communities nourish beaches, adjacent to segments managed for roadways, some nourished sand reaches the adjacent segments, reducing shoreline erosion there. Conversely, portions of barriers that are managed only for roadways allow some overwash to reach the barrier interior; this negatively affects neighboring communities by enhancing their shoreline erosion rates. We find that early abandonment of dune management along portions of barriers may prevent highly vulnerable future states, such as barrier drowning. As communities explore choices for climate adaptation, our findings reveal the importance of coordination among decision makers in adjacent communities to avoid undesirable outcomes. Key Points: When management strategies vary alongshore, their effects are coupled via alongshore sediment redistribution, influencing barrier evolutionBeach nourishment (along portions of barriers) induces system‐wide lags in shoreline retreat, even decades after nourishment practices ceaseMore overwash (due to lower dunes or increased storminess) can prolong habitability, but drives increased nourishment frequency elsewhere [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this study, a swash-zone model, using Larson and Wamsley formula (LW07), was combined into the Telemac-2D model system to examine the performance of modeling swash-zone processes through comparisons with field observation data. The experimental site was the Haeundae Beach in South Korea where Typhoon Phanfone occurred in October 2014, and bathymetric surveys were performed before and after the typhoon. Hydrodynamic data were also measured to validate the modeled data. The performance of LW07 was tested by running the model in two modes, with and without LW07. First, the model was run to simulate the shoreline response to an imaginary coastal breakwater. The result showed a clear discrepancy between the two modes as the sediments were considerably cumulated behind the breakwater in the case with the swash-zone formula (LW07) in the wide range along the shoreline behind the breakwater, indicating that the sediments more actively and rapidly responded to the shadowing by the breakwater with LW07. The model was also run for a realistic case from August to October 2014, which included the typhoon's period during 2–6 October. The results showed that the morphological changes at both ends of the beach in the swash zone were simulated with higher accuracy with LW07, supporting the effectiveness of LW07 in simulating the short-term morphological changes induced by the typhoon attack. In particular, the successful simulation of the sand accumulation at the end sides of the beach's swash zone indicates that LW07 was effective in estimating not only the cross-shore transport but also longshore transport, which was likely due to the characteristics of LW07 that calculated sand transport in both directions. The enhanced modeling performance with LW07 was likely due to the adjustment of the sediment transport rate to the instantaneous changes in the local beach slope, which could successfully control the erosion/accretion process in the swash zone more realistically. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this study, laboratory experiments were conducted to investigate the influence of changes in storm wave height and water level on beach response in a medium-scale wave flume. A schematic storm was simulated (rising, apex, and waning phases). A non-intrusive photogrammetric method was used to collect high-resolution and synchronous data regarding the free surface water elevation and bed level, from which shoreline location, sandbar position, cross-shore sediment transport rates, and nonlinear wave parameters were derived. The cross-shore sediment transport was in agreement with previous laboratory measurements, including the monotonous exchange from foreshore erosion to shoaling zone accretion in most stages of the storm simulation. The surf zone was the main region supplying sediment for beach morphology modification and sandbar generation. The degree of storm erosion was not completely determined by the largest wave height and water level or the cumulative wave power of the apex phase. The largest gradients of the wave parameter sequence change occurred in the rising phase, and this was the main factor generating efficient beachface erosion. It induced an increase in sandbar size, accompanied by the cross-shore motion of maximum velocity amplitude, more violent disturbances of wave nonlinearity, and increased surf zone erosion, with these factors increasing beach instability and leading to more severe storm erosion. The large wave height and water level resulted in shoreline retreat, with a more significant swash zone erosion under a higher runup. The offshore sediment transport turned toward the onshore direction as the original large sandbar deteriorated under the decreasing wave parameter sequence in the waning phase. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Sandy beaches have different shoreline change rates (i.e., erosion/accretion rates). An erosive process on beaches poses risks for human-occupied areas. One example is Matinhos Beach (state of Paraná - Brazil), which has an average annual erosion rate of around 1.5 m yr-1 This study applied a methodology that combines in situ measurements and numerical modeling to simulate the physical processes in the coastal area of Matinhos during the 2018 Austral winter. Monthly DGPS surveys were carried out in the study area from June to September. The MOHID modeling system was applied to simulate hydrodynamics and sediment transport, considering waves and tidal forcing validated with in situ data. The WAVEWATCH III and SWAN models were applied in a nesting approach to simulate the waves at Matinhos Beach. The GFS was used to assess the wind conditions. The study period showed a dynamic evolution of accretion and erosion between monthly measurements with no clear pattern in most profiles. Significant sand accumulation was observed near the headland. Morphological changes were minor due to the predominance of low energy without significant storm events. The measured morphological changes are in line with the residual littoral drift obtained from the modeling results for the period. The residual current velocities were towards the southwest, with magnitudes ranging from 0.15 m s-1 to 0.2 m s-1. A slight variation in the angle of wave incidence (10°) may change the direction (southwest or northeast) and intensity of the littoral drift. The applied methodology can reduce uncertainty and support effective coastal management. However, the seasonal scales of wave climate cannot be disregarded, nor can the need for coastal oceanographic data. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This work presents a new model for surf and swash zone morphology evolution induced by nonlinear waves. Wave transformation in the surf and swash zones is computed by a nonlinear wave model based on the higher order Boussinesq equations for breaking and non-breaking waves. Regarding sediment transport, the model builds on previous research by the authors and incorporates the latest update of a well-founded sediment transport formula. The wave and morphology evolution model is validated against two sets of experiments on beach profile change and is afterwards used to test the performance of a widely-adopted erosion/accretion criterion. The innovation of this work is the validation of a new Boussinesq-type morphology model under both erosive and accretive conditions at the foreshore (accretion is rarely examined in similar studies), which the model reproduces very well without modification of the empirical coefficients of the sediment transport formula used; furthermore, the model confirms the empirical erosion/accretion criterion even for conditions beyond the ones it was developed for and without imposing any model constraints. The presented set of applications highlights model capabilities in simulating swash morphodynamics, as well as its suitability for coastal erosion mitigation and beach restoration design [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Beach evolution is one of the key issues in coastal engineering. High computational efficiency model of beach evolution is limited by strong wave nonlinearity, flow acceleration, and sediment phase lag. The XBeach model is improved to cover the three limitations in the study. First, the near-bed velocity of nonlinear wave is reconstructed by using nonlinear parameters. Second, flow acceleration and sediment phase lag are taken into account for the near-bed sediment conditions to calculate the equilibrium concentration of suspended sediment and the transport rate of bed load. The response of sediment is not necessarily instantaneous to near-bed velocity in practical problems, but separated into a phase (time) shift between sediment concentration and velocity and a phase residual denoting sediment amount in moving at flow reversal. The improved XBeach model performs better results than the original XBeach model. Numerical experiments are carried out using the improved XBeach model to investigate the effects of wave height and sediment size. The numerical experiments show that the volume and range of erosion/deposition increase with the increase of wave height and decrease of sediment size, and deposition center moves to offshore. The perspective of wave energy and phase lag can explain the erosion/deposition variation. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

With the recent development from grey infrastructures to green infrastructures, artificial reefs become more popular in coastal protection projects. To investigate the responses of beach profile evolution to the presence of an artificial reef, a non-hydrostatic model is established. Both hydrodynamic and morphodynamic evolution for the beach with and without an artificial reef are compared under regular wave conditions. In addition, the protected beach profile evolution by an artificial reef is discussed under irregular wave conditions. Three key parameters in non-hydrostatic simulation are considered for sensitivity analysis, including maximum wave steepness criterium (maxbrsteep), water depth factor (depthscale), and equilibrium sediment concentration factor (sedcal). The numerical results under regular wave conditions indicate that the artificial reef enhances wave attenuation by inducing wave breaking. In addition, the artificial reef reduces local flow velocity and offshore sediment transport by 51%, therefore decrease the total erosion by 53%. Over the artificial reef, wave skewness and asymmetry go through a drastic change. Under irregular wave conditions, short waves contribute to the wave energy mainly and reflection-induced standing wave effects decline considerably. It demonstrates that the artificial reef can protect the beach from regular and irregular waves by reducing erosion and offshore transport of suspended sediments. Moreover, in the wave breaking area, the increase of maximum wave steepness criterium may give arise to the wave height. The morphological evolution is more sensitive to water depth factor than equilibrium sediment concentration factor, because the former is a controlling factor for beach profile characteristics while the latter forms the sandbar varying irregularly in shape. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A field campaign was carried out at a sheltered sandy beach with the aim of gaining new insights into the driving processes behind sheltered beach morphodynamics. Detailed measurements of the local hydrodynamics, bed level changes and sediment composition were collected at the man-made beach on the leeside of the barrier island Texel, bordering the Marsdiep basin that is part of the Dutch Wadden Sea. The data set consists of (1) current, wave and turbidity measurements from a dense cross-shore array and a 3 km alongshore array, (2) sediment composition data from beach surface samples, (3) high-temporal-resolution RTK-GNSS beach profile measurements, (4) a pre-campaign spatially covering bathy-topo map and (5) meteorological data. This manuscript outlines how these measurements were set up and how the data have been processed, stored and can be accessed. The novelty of this data set lies in the detailed approach to resolve forcing conditions on a sheltered beach, where sediment transport is governed by a strong interplay between tidal currents, waves and bed composition, primarily due to the low-energy (near-threshold) forcing. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

During a storm, as the beach profile is impacted by increased wave forcing and rapidly changing water levels, sand berms may help mitigate erosion of the backshore. However, the mechanics of berm morphodynamics have not been fully described. In this study, 26 trials were conducted in a large wave flume to explore the response of a near‐prototype berm to scaled storm conditions. Sensors were used to quantify hydrodynamics, sheet flow dynamics, and berm evolution. Results indicate that berm overtopping and offshore sediment transport were key processes causing berm erosion. During the morphological evolution of the beach profile, two sand bars were formed offshore that attenuated subsequent wave energy. The landward extent of that energy was confined to the seaward foreshore, inhibiting inundation of the backshore. Net offshore‐directed transport was dominant when infragravity motions increased in the swash zone. Conversely, the influence of incident‐band motions on sediment transport was relatively greater in the inner‐surf zone. Near‐bed flow velocities and sheet flow layer thicknesses were larger in the swash zone than in the inner‐surf zone. This paper also provides a valuable analysis between morphology‐estimated total sediment transport rates and rates derived from in situ measurements. Sheet flow dynamics dominated foreshore cross‐shore sediment processes, constituting the largest portion of the total sediment transport load throughout the berm erosion. Plain Language Summary: Coastal berms are natural sand barriers between the ocean and the back beach. During storms, berms may help prevent or slow down the erosion of the beach. A large‐scale laboratory experiment was conducted to study sediment transport and how berms erode. Sensors were used to measure water levels, flow velocities, sediment concentrations, and beach profile changes. The findings indicate that berm erosion was primarily caused by swash processes occurring as waves overtopped the berm. Offshore sediment transport resulted in the formation of two sand bars that helped dissipate subsequent wave energy. Overall, by quantifying processes leading to berm erosion, we can enhance our understanding of coastal dynamics, implement effective measures to protect beaches during storms, and safeguard against flooding. Key Points: Wave overtopping, runup, and low‐frequency motions are the main processes of berm erosionDuring early storm stages, near‐bed flow velocities and sheet layer thicknesses are larger in the swash zone than in the inner‐surf zoneQuantification of sediment transport rates indicates the dominance of sheet flow layer load at the foreshore, throughout the berm erosion [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Since the field measurement of wave overwash is difficult to obtain during severe storms, a laboratory experiment is conducted to measure the time and space evolution of the overwash and beach profile over the sand dune continuously using high‐speed video image analysis for different wave conditions of irregular waves and solitary waves. Characteristics of the cross‐shore sediment transport and morphology change are discussed from the laboratory experiment data. The inflection point, which marks the shifting turn in dune crest movement during overwash, is determined by analyzing feature points in the variation of dune geometry. It is confirmed that the overwash water volume rate reaches a maximum value when the inflection point occurs. Additionally, the overwash water volume is found to be linearly related to the deposited sediment volume, and the dune erosion volume is proportional to wave energy flux during the overwash process. The presence of secondary dunes is found to significantly alleviate coast erosion during overwash and reduce shoreline retreat by more than 40%, regardless of the height of the secondary dune crest. Furthermore, the advances and limitations in overwash hydrodynamics are discussed. It is recommended that this continuous morphological change monitoring data be combined with a wave resolution model for detailed hydrodynamic simulations to further understand the overwash process. Plain Language Summary: Beach erosion and land inundation occur when wave runup exceeds the crest of dunes during extreme natural hazards. Dunes play a crucial role in coastal defense by reducing sediment loss and maintaining beach stability. To understand the hydrodynamic conditions and morphology change during the overwash process, we set up a dune‐beach experiment in a laboratory flume. With the support of high‐speed camera technology, this study examines the response of dunes during the overwash process and the changes in dune feature points. It is pointed out that dune erosion shows a relationship with wave energy flux and is consistent with shoreline recession. Moreover, secondary dunes can effectively reduce coastal erosion during overwash. Key Points: The experiment reveals that the inflection point in dune crest movement during overwash corresponds to the maximum overwash water rateOverwash water volume is linearly related to deposited sediment volume, while dune erosion volume is proportional to wave energy fluxThe presence of secondary dunes significantly reduced coast erosion during overwash, reducing shoreline retreat by over 40% [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This study investigated the beach nourishment effect and topographical changes when using nourishment sand with relatively large particle diameters to perform beach nourishment on a beach subject to erosion. A physical model test was conducted in a 2D wave flume with an installed wind tunnel. The experiment examined the sediment transport mechanism under conditions with wind and waves. Although applying nourishment sand with large particle diameters attenuated sediment transport, the increase in particle diameter was not always proportional to the reduction in topographical changes. Increasing the particle diameter of the nourishment sand increased the friction force between particles, resulting in large-scale erosion and accretion around the coastline, and this trend increased with winds. Also, with wind, the wave run-up height increased, the undertow became stronger, and large-scale scouring occurred at the boundary between the nourishment sand and the existing beach. Increasing the particle diameter of the nourishment sand played a role in reducing the run-up phenomenon (d50: 1.0 mm with 24–50%, d50: 5.0 mm with 59–83%), and the range of particles moved by winds also decreased (d50: 1.0 mm with 10–38%, d50: 5.0 mm with 5–37%). [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The three-dimensional liquid–sediment system of a coastline was investigated using experimental and numerical approaches. A scaled-down model of the coastline was numerically studied using smooth particle hydrodynamics (SPH). The flow dynamics and the impacts of the wave frequency and the seaward slope angle on the breaking wave characteristics of the two-phase liquid–sediment interaction were parametrically studied. A particle image velocimetry (PIV) experiment was conducted to validate the SPH predictions. It was found that the flow profiles obtained by the PIV and SPH are in good agreement both qualitatively and quantitatively. The maximum velocity of the fluid flow was recorded as 0.5623 m/s in the SPH simulation, but as 0.5860 m/s in the PIV experimental, with a percentage difference of 4.21%. Subsequently, it was found that the breaking wave characteristic is surging at the wave frequency range of f < 0.15 Hz, plunging at 0.15 < f < 0.55 Hz, and spilling at 0.55 < f ≤ 1.0 Hz. It was also established that at a particular Froude number, it is observed that spilling, plunging, and surging wave breakers are produced at low, mid, and high seaward slope angles, respectively. Meanwhile, increasing the Froude number increases the tendency to produce spilling or plugging breaking waves, irrespective of the slope angle. Ultimately, this study has demonstrated the presented methodology's usefulness in investigating coastlines' liquid–sediment interaction properties. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Continuous monitoring of the varying topographical characteristics of shorelines is important for effective coastal management. Closed-circuit television (CCTV) cameras are installed to accumulate photographic data on coastal topographical changes. The overall change in the coastal waters can be intuitively understood from the images. However, the amount of three-dimensional (3D) changes that can be grasped is limited. To address this, studies have employed aerial photogrammetry, which is the use of unmanned aerial vehicles (UAVs) to capture aerial pictures, construct 3D models of target areas, and perform analysis through scale-invariant feature transform and structure from motion technologies. Although highly efficient, this technique requires several ground-control points (GCPs), which could corrupt the overall imagery. This study designs real-time kinematics—global navigation satellite system (RTK–GNSS) UAV, which requires few GCPs. To evaluate the positional accuracy of the captured UAV orthographic images and digital surface models (DSMs) used for precise coastal terrain measurements, a virtual reference service survey was performed to determine the vertical errors. The R-squared was 0.985, which is close to 1.0. Short-term and one-year topographic changes before and after a storm were investigated using time-series UAV image data after a coastal maintenance project. Analysis of the coefficient of variation in the beach volume for one year revealed that submerged breakwater reduced erosion during high wave resistance. The submerged breakwater located in the center exhibited variability similar to the opening. Hence, this method is more suitable for periodically monitoring coastal areas. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Understanding the dynamics of beach–dune systems is crucial for effective coastal management. The cellular automata model DuBeVeg provides a powerful tool for simulating and understanding the bio-geomorphological evolution of these systems, capturing key interactions of aeolian, hydro-, and vegetation dynamics in a simplified manner. In this study, we present an alternative representation of the aeolian transport component in DuBeVeg, aiming to better capture the saltation transport mode that prevails on beaches. This new representation is compared with the original aeolian transport representation in DuBeVeg, which is inspired by ripple migration. For three beach width scenarios, we considered the effects of the different aeolian transport representations on the predicted foredune morphology after 50 years, as well as the spatio-temporal evolution of the beach–dune system leading to that morphologic state. The saltation transport representation resulted in a more realistic simulation of the seaward expansion of the foredune compared with the original representation, particularly in scenarios with wide and prograding beaches. The new representation also more accurately captured the amplitude of aeolian bedforms emerging across the beach. These findings highlight the importance of selecting the representative transport mode when simulating the transient bio-geomorphological evolution of beach–dune systems. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Coastal barrier systems are low‐lying environments that bear the brunt of storm impacts, with cumulative and complex consequences for barrier evolution. Most studies of barrier responses to storms examine what happens when water and sediment get driven landward across a barrier from its ocean side. Sherwood et al. (2023, https://doi.org/10.1029/2022jf006934) investigate the effects of overland flow and sediment transport forced across a barrier in the opposite direction—from its sheltered side, seaward. Using high‐resolution imagery of a barrier island observed before and after a hurricane, Sherwood et al. (2023, https://doi.org/10.1029/2022jf006934) show that "outwash" flow across the barrier shifted several times more sediment by volume than is typically reported for beach and dune erosion from onshore forcing. Their findings are remarkable because they are not exceptional: a related survey of barriers along the Atlantic and Gulf Coasts of the USA observed patterns of outwash morphology essentially everywhere. Insights into outwash morphology open exciting questions regarding the overlooked role of storm‐driven seaward sediment transport in barrier dynamics, with important implications for post‐storm barrier recovery and barrier evolution over decades to centuries. Plain Language Summary: Coastal barrier systems—beaches backed by dunes, marshes, and often a lagoon or sound—offer natural protection to coastal floodplains by absorbing some of the physical impacts of storms, including hurricanes. Most studies of storm impacts on coastal barriers investigate changes that occur when a storm drives water and sediment landward, over a barrier from its ocean‐facing side. But storms also drive sediment‐laden flows in the opposite direction: over the back of a barrier from its more sheltered side, toward the ocean. Here, I highlight work by Sherwood et al. (2023, https://doi.org/10.1029/2022jf006934) that details extensive patterns of erosion and accretion from "outwash" flow seaward over a barrier during a hurricane. Added up over time, sediment shifting landward and seaward across a barrier shapes the barrier landscape and affects how the barrier may respond to future storm impacts. Sherwood et al. (2023, https://doi.org/10.1029/2022jf006934) offer findings with important implications for understanding how coastal barriers evolve in space and time, and address a question that is fundamental to many geomorphic systems: when a large volume of sediment moves during an extreme weather event, where does it all go? Key Points: Sediment transport seaward during storms remains largely overlooked in coastal researchSeaward outwash may shift more sediment by volume than onshore‐forcing processes of beach and dune erosionThe complex relationship between storm‐driven seaward transport and barrier recovery opens exciting questions regarding barrier evolution [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The northern California littoral cell of the Klamath River, which is a mixed rocky and sandy system with significant shoreline curvature, was investigated by examining ∼40 yr of satellite‐derived shoreline positions and historical records. We find that an accretion wave of sediment was initiated near the Klamath River mouth in the late 1980s and translated downcoast over the subsequent decades. The wave passed rapidly (∼2,500 m/yr) through a rocky coastal reach with more oblique wave directions and slowly through a sandy reach (∼200 m/yr) where wave crests approach at more normal angles. Within the sandy reach, the accretion wave extended over 200 m offshore, was ∼10 km long, incorporated 20 ± 6 million m3 of sediment, and averaged 1.3 ± 0.4 million m3/yr of longshore sediment transport over a 20‐yr interval. Diffusion of the accretion wave was observed, but the diffusivity coefficient (εobs ∼0.01 m2/s) was lower than values predicted by theory, which we attribute to net sediment transport convergence in the study area caused by the curvature of the shoreline. Examining historical records, we find that increased sediment discharge in the Klamath River occurred during the 20th century from industrial‐scale logging and climatic extremes. Thus, we hypothesize that increased river sediment discharge introduced new sediment to the littoral cell that initiated the observed accretion wave. These hypotheses can be tested with stratigraphic and mineralogic investigations of the broad study area beach that has formed during the past 150 years. Plain Language Summary: The existence of beaches along the world's coasts is dependent on the availability of sand or other sediment sources that build up these landforms. As sediment sources come and go over time, beaches may accrete or erode in response to these changes. These kinds of shoreline change patterns can be measured using new satellite‐based techniques that are especially valuable for coasts with limited ground‐based surveys. We applied these satellite‐based shoreline techniques to a portion of the northern California coast, which revealed that a massive body of sediment appeared on this coast in the 1980s, and that this sediment moved downcoast over the subsequent decades. The sediment stayed in a relatively continuous body—termed a coastal accretion wave—that extended 100's of meters offshore and several kilometers alongshore. The satellite measurements also allowed us to track the evolution of the shape and speed of this accretion wave and compare these results with physical conditions and sediment movement theory. Comparing with historical measurements, maps, and accounts, we hypothesize that sediment from the Klamath River has been a primary source of sediment to this coast, including the formation of the accretion wave and study area's broad beach. Key Points: An accretion wave of ∼20 million m3 of littoral sediment formed in the late 1980s and translated ∼15‐km downcoast over the next 30+ yearsAlongshore diffusion of the wave was less than predicted by theory, which is attributed to transport convergence from the shoreline curvatureIncreases in river sediment discharge from human impacts and climate extremes may have initiated the accretion wave [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Costa da Caparica beach, in Portugal, has suffered from chronic erosion for the last 50 years, a phenomenon that has been countered by various management interventions. This study aims at comparing sixteen possible interventions, thus identifying the most effective one(s) in terms of reducing beach erosion or even promoting beach accretion. This exercise is achieved using a one-line shoreline evolution model, calibrated with in situ field data, forced by local wave conditions. The target management period is 25 years. In the calibration phase, it is found that the annual mean alongshore net sediment transport along the 24 km sandy coast is variable in direction and magnitude, but it is mostly smaller than ±50 × 103 m3/year. This net transport results from the imbalance of northward/southward-directed bulk transports of circa tenfold-larger magnitudes. This affects the overall sediment balance at the urban beaches, as well as the effectiveness of the intervention strategies. The results show that the present management strategy is effective in holding the shoreline position, although deploying the same nourishment volume but over a shorter area could lead to better results. The best solutions, which are capable of promoting beach accretion, implicate the lengthening of the terminal groin at the northern extremity of the beach. The results from this study can support decision makers in identifying the most appropriate management action, not just locally but also at other coastal regions where similar problems persist and the same methodology could be applied. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Typhoons play an important role in beach evolution. The storm surge and large waves caused by typhoons can cause significant changes in beach morphology in a short period of time. The mechanism of beach evolution and profile changes during typhoons is significantly different from that under non-typhoon dynamic conditions. The XBeach numerical model provides an effective tool for predicting the response of sandy coasts to typhoons. This study is based on field-collected long-term beach profile elevations and grain size data, which were used to establish a two-dimensional XBeach model for simulating the morphological evolution of Cudao Island Beach under Typhoon Lekima. The GSA (Generalized Sensitivity Analysis) method was used to determine the sensitivity order of several important parameters in this modeling. Four different moments of wave height variation were selected during the typhoon process to analyze and study beach evolution. The results show that Chudao South Beach is always in a state of erosion during the typhoon period. The wave water increase is apparent in the nearshore wave-breaking area. The beach shoulder in the northeastern part of the beach is short, and the profile, with a short length, responds quickly to the typhoon. The eroded sediment is mainly deposited in the lower part of the intertidal zone or even transported outside of the wave-breaking zone, and a small part is transported to the shore and deposited in the high-tide zone. The continuous sediment transport along the coast of Chudao Beach is an important factor that influenced the evolution of each profile during Typhoon Lekima. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This document is a correction notice for an article titled "Spatio-Temporal Morphodynamics of a Nourished Sandy Shore Based on LiDAR Measurements." The correction addresses errors in the original publication, specifically inappropriate citations in the Discussion section. The correction provides the correct references and clarifies the phenomenon of heightened dune erosion in the area, attributing it to long, oblique depressions in the bottom topography. The correction also discusses the ongoing coastal protection efforts on the Hel Peninsula in Poland and the causes of erosion in the area. The authors state that the scientific conclusions of the article are unaffected by the correction. [Extracted from the article]

A three-phase (air, water, and sediment) flow computational-fluid-dynamics model based on OpenFOAM was used in the present work to simulate the beach erosion induced by breaking solitary waves. The simulation results were first validated by comparing them against experimental measurements. The simulated time series of the surface elevation and pore pressure, as well as the simulated beach profile after erosion, compared fairly well with the experiment. The simulation results showed that the wave runup and rundown processes were accompanied by distinct hydrodynamics and sediment transport characteristics. The hydrodynamics in the runup stage is featured by a weaker flow before the wave breaking and a stronger one afterward, which then gradually weakens toward the runup limit. The hydrodynamics in the rundown stage is featured by a generally weaker flow compared to the runup stage. The flow is also stronger before the hydraulic jump and weaker afterward. A flow reversal and the exfiltration process are captured by the numerical model at the end of the rundown stage. The sediment transport in the runup stage is featured by an intense rate but a short duration, while the sediment transport in the rundown stage is much slower but has a longer duration. As a result, the total amounts of the transported sediment in the runup and rundown stages were comparable to each other. Finally, a discussion on the limitations of the numerical model and possible modifications to further improve the model in the future is presented. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Onshore bar migration is a characteristic bar behavior during post‐storm beach recovery. The present large‐scale experiments, feature bichromatic wave groups over an initially steep (1:15), fully‐evolving beach. The same accretive wave condition is applied on two different post‐storm beach profiles featuring outer and inner bars. They are characterized by a larger (smaller) shoreline erosion and a larger (smaller) outer breaker bar located farther away from (closer to) the shoreline depending on the larger (smaller) energy of the storm condition. After a considerable post‐storm recovery time, similar equilibrium profiles are obtained, stressing the link between wave condition and equilibrium beach configuration. However, the evolution toward the equilibrium is different and depends on the initial morphological condition (post‐storm beach profile). After the larger storm, the morphological evolution is termed accretive merging (AM) and characterized by merging of the two bars (outer bar dissipation). After the smaller storm, the morphological evolution denoted as accretive non‐merging (AN) is characterized by onshore migration of the two bars with constant distance between them (bar maintenance). This study focuses on processes around the outer bar. During AN it features wave breaking, causing large suspended net offshore transport. AM, in contrast, mainly features bedload related to short wave asymmetries and low decomposed net transport rate magnitudes. High suspended net offshore transport occurs solely onshore of the outer bar trough. This causes filling of the bar trough and bar dissipation during migration. Additionally, processes around the outer bars are linked to accretion onshore of the bars and at the shoreline. Plain Language Summary: Nearshore sandbars are seabed features that protect coastal infrastructure behind many sandy beaches around the world. In response to waves they change in shape and distance to the beach, playing a key role in beach recovery after storms. To improve understanding of their onshore movement (migration), experiments were conducted which represented natural conditions in a controlled laboratory setting. In this context, the underwater transport of sand was measured. Application of the same recovery wave condition to two different post‐storm beach profiles resulted in two different types of bar onshore migration. After long experimental duration, both types evolved toward relatively similar beach profiles but the different ways of reaching them might have important practical consequences. In general, bar migration was governed by the interaction of onshore‐ and offshore‐transporting processes. They, in turn, were influenced by wave breaking. Bars, furthermore, cause wave breaking—closing the feedback loop. Ultimately, the different wave breaking locations, resulting from the shape of the post‐storm profiles, caused the different types of bar onshore migration during recovery. The present results provide crucial information for the development of mathematical models to forecast beach evolution and safeguard human interests in the coastal zone. Key Points: Accretive wave condition determines quasi‐equilibrium recovery beach profile irrespective of initial profilesConfiguration of post‐storm profiles determines type of accretive morphological evolution toward the quasi‐equilibrium profileOuter bar maintenance associated with wave breaking over the bar while breaking farther onshore leads to outer bar dissipation [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Gravel barrier beaches can offer natural protection to coastlines from adverse storm conditions. Understanding the morphodynamics of gravel barrier beaches is vital for the effective and sustainable management of these systems. Here, we use a synthetic dataset to investigate the morphodynamic response of the gravel barrier beach at Hurst Castle Spit, located on the Southwest coast of the United Kingdom, to both unimodal and bimodal storms. This spit is exposed to wind and swell waves propagating up the English Channel from the Southwest approaches and has suffered repeated storm erosion. The results are analyzed to identify the key drivers that govern the spatio-temporal gravel barrier morphodynamic responses to storms and to explore the morphodynamic states of the barrier. We found that the morphodynamic response of the barrier beach is strongly influenced by the combination of storm wave height and still water level. Further, the presence of swell waves can be a controlling factor in the barrier response.

Recent developments in process-based coastal area models such as XBeach provide new opportunities to predict coastal responses to primary forcing mechanisms such as storm hydrodynamic by using 2DH grids. However, due to the lack of measured data, there are few application scenarios of the models. Therefore, more measurement and research are needed. In this paper, the Typhoon Lekima that hitting Zhejiang Province during neap tide period was selected to simulate morphodynamic responses of the Huangcheng Beach by assuming encountering with different tide types. Cross shore measurements with eight cross-shore profiles (named S1 ~ S8 from north to south) of the Huangcheng Beach pre- and post- the Typhoon Lekima respectively were presented. Then a 2DH storm surge and wave coupled model was established with Delft3D Flow/Wave. The model was well calibrated with measured water levels and wave data and provided hydrodynamic boundary conditions of different typhoon and tide types coupling situations for a refined model. The refined model was built using XBeach and simulated the morphological responses of the Huangcheng beach with well verifications. On basis of the numerical results, bed level changes at the eight profiles were analyzed, and the character of erosion and deposition under different tide conditions were illustrated. The net sand volume changes were got smaller under the spring tide condition rather than middle tide and neap tide conditions. Further study of the distribution of wave induced current at different stages of collision, inundation and ebb shown that the stronger current under spring tide condition would increase the sediment transport rate and reduce the deposition volume at profiles S3 and S6 ~ S8, and the total amount of sediment involved in transportation had increased for the whole beach, leading to the reduction of net erosion volume at profiles S1, S2, S4 and S5. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Identifying coastal stretches that are likely to erode under high wave conditions is essential to the coastal management community in addressing beach erosion-related issues. The manuscript presents a case study to predict erosion of a selected beach located on the eastern Indian coast during the 2018 southwest (SW) monsoon season. The pre-monsoon beach topography surveyed using DGPS is used as the initial topographic condition in the morphological model. The model simulates subsequent beach erosion during the SW monsoon season, which is forced by forecast waves. Beach erosion advisories that classify the beach as eroding, accreting and no change are disseminated with a lead period of 10 days. During the SW monsoon period, we have monitored the beach using the dumpy level, and the beach topography during the post-monsoon is generated using DGPS surveyed profiles and are used for model validation. The beach area under erosion observed from the model result is homologous with the in-situ observations. The model shows cross-shore sediment transport to dominate during the SW monsoon, particularly in the central and northern sectors of RK beach. The model estimated shoreline position agrees with the DGPS observations, where the central sector has undergone maximum erosion. The comparison shows the model's ability to simulate beach morphodynamics like landward shifting of the berm crest under a high wave setup and oscillating water levels due to tides. The study highlights the importance of numerical modelling systems that decipher the beach response to the high monsoon waves. Research highlights: Beach erosion forecast system for RK Beach, India. Forecast system is developed using a combination of WAVEWATCHIII and Xbeach. Beach erosion advisories during monsoon period. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The compatibility of sediments in terms of grain size, composition and colour among beaches and strategic sediment deposits (SSD) along Western Sardinia (Western Mediterranean Sea) were assessed to explore management strategy in the protection and adaptation to counteract the beach erosion and the effect of sea level rise along sandy shores. Twelve beaches, mainly conditioned by geological control, due to the presence of extensive rocky outcrops in the sea, enclosed in seven sedimentary cells (defined by the continuity of sediment transport pathways and by identification of boundaries where there are discontinuities), were characterised in terms of sediment composition and grain size. One hundred ninety-three beach sediments and one hundred sediments from SSDs were collected and analysed for sediment grain size, carbonate content and sediment colour. The beach sediments are composed by gravel to fine sands (D50: from 81 µm to 4986 µm) with siliciclastic and biogenic carbonate sediments mixed in different proportions (0–100% in CaCO3). The SSDs sediments are gravels to medium-fine sand (D50: from 96 µm to 1769 µm) composed by biogenic carbonate sands mixed with siliciclastic grains (0–100% in CaCO3). To be able to evaluate the compatibility between the beaches and SSDs, a multivariate statistical procedure was applied to grain size dataset. Our results show that 8 beaches have strategic deposits of compatible grain size and composition, whereas only 2 beaches have compatible strategic deposits of both grain size and colour. This may be related to the different sediment sources and depositional processes of sediment along the coastal cells and the continental shelf. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Overwash is the cross‐shore transport of water and sediment from a waterbody over the crest of a sand or gravel barrier beach, and washover is the resulting sedimentary deposit. Washover volume, and alongshore patterns of washover distribution, are fundamental components of sediment budgets for low‐lying coastal barrier systems. Accurate sediment budgets are essential to forecasting barrier system sustainability under future climate‐driven forcing. However, comprehensive surveys of three‐dimensional washover morphology are challenging to deliver. Here, we use the results of a physical experiment, analysis of lidar data, and examples of washover characteristics reported in the literature to develop scaling relationships for washover morphometry that demonstrate volume can be reasonably inferred from planform measurements, for washover in natural (non‐built) and built barrier settings. Gaining three‐dimensional insight into washover deposits from two‐dimensional information unlocks the ability to analyze past aerial imagery and estimate contributions from washover flux to sediment budgets for past storms. Plain Language Summary: When a coastal storm drives water up and over the crest of a beach, sediment gets picked up by the flow and deposited behind the beach. That deposit, which might settle among dunes, on a marsh, or on the streets of a neighborhood, is called washover. Knowing the total volume of washover delivered by a storm event helps coastal managers account for the amount of sediment that moves through a beach system over time, known as a sediment budget. An accurate sediment budget provides an indication of environmental functioning and sustainability. However, washover volume is expensive to measure over large spatial scales—so despite its importance to sediment budgets, washover volume often goes unquantified. What if three‐dimensional washover volume could be estimated from the two‐dimensional shape and size of washover deposits visible in aerial photos? Here, we created washover deposits in a laboratory and compared them to washover in field settings to show that the area of a washover deposit is a good predictor of its volume. This relationship between area and volume unlocks information about past storm deposition captured in aerial photo archives, and enables estimation of washover volume where direct measurement of volume is unavailable or impossible. Key Points: Washover volume can be estimated from washover areaScaling relationships for washover size and shape link measurements from a physical experiment and field examplesEstimation of washover volume from aerial imagery is a step toward quantifying storm‐driven contributions to sediment budgets [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Mercaldi, B.; Brideau, L.E.; Tait, J.F., and Griggs, G., 2022. Seasonal morphological variability on estuarine beaches and implications for low-energy beach management. Journal of Coastal Research, 38(6), 1135–1147. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. Estuarine beaches and other low-energy shorelines are critical for habitats and coastal infrastructure protection. Many different species inhabit estuaries because of the water bodies' unique characteristics, such as their mixed seawater and freshwater and variable tidal ranges. Estuarine beaches also have the important role of buffering storm wave energy. Yet, their natural physical processes are understudied. This research focuses on seasonal morphological variability of estuarine, low-energy beaches and evaluates the implications for beach management practices. Five sandy beaches were studied along the northern shoreline of Long Island Sound in the northeastern region of the United States. The studied beaches vary in location, width, length, and orientation within Long Island Sound to represent different exposures to wave energy. Three seasonal profiles were measured at each beach approximately every four months from late 2015 to early 2019 to document topographic changes. The results revealed minimal sediment movement throughout the study period and there was no evidence of significant cyclic cross-shore sediment transport to indicate patterns of seasonal profile changes. These findings reveal important implications for beach management practices on low-energy shorelines. Specifically, estuarine and other low-energy beaches should be studied on decadal time scales to document any long-term variability and post-storm recovery rather than the monthly or yearly time scales on which open-ocean beaches are typically evaluated. Additionally, estuarine beaches and other low-energy shorelines require specialized management practices that cater to their stagnancy to ensure adequate protection of coastal structures and infrastructure in the face of intensifying hurricanes and sea level rise. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Impacts from a changing climate, in particular sea-level rise, will be most acutely felt on small oceanic islands. A common configuration of mid-latitude islands is the sandy barrier island. Sable Island, Nova Scotia, Canada is a vegetated sand island near the shelf edge, 160 km from the nearest point of land, that is morphologically similar to a barrier island. This study uses 60 years of airphoto records to analyse changes in coastline position through digitized shore and vegetation (foredune proxy) lines. Rates of coastal movement are analysed to model the future (2039) coastal configuration. The analyses suggest that the majority of the coastline on Sable Island is in retreat, with net retreat on the south side of the island only partially offset by modest net advance on the north side. The different morphologies of the beach–dune systems of South Beach and North Beach, driven by incident wind and waves, yield these different coastline responses. Projected loss of 10 ha by 2039 of the climax heath vegetative community to shoreline retreat suggests a trend toward island instability due to coastline migration. Island-wide data set trends show support for two different but complementary hypotheses about whole-island evolution: (1) the island is mobile via bank migration driving southern coastline changes and experiencing sediment transport toward the east, or (2) the island is generally immobile and losing subaerial sediments (and thus shrinking) likely due to ongoing (and accelerating) sea-level rise. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Small uncrewed aerial systems (sUASs) provide an efficient way to reveal processes controlling the morphology of sandy shorelines so that they can be more effectively managed. One of Hawaiʻi's most popular tourist destinations, Waikīkī's Royal Hawaiian Beach, features patterns of sediment transport driven by trade-wind activity, seasonal wave conditions, tropical storm activity, and other phenomena that make it an effective laboratory for the study of beach morphology. To evaluate the efficacy of using consumer-grade sUASs to monitor subaerial sand volume and processes that drive beach morphodynamics, we conducted weekly aerial and ground surveys from which high-resolution point clouds, digital elevation models, and orthomosaics were generated through structure from motion (SfM) photogrammetry. Our period of observation (April to November 2018) bracketed the Central Pacific hurricane season and the season of elevated southerly swell. Both phenomena are known to significantly influence sediment transport in the study area. Using empirical orthogonal function (EOF) analysis, we described combinations of single and dual littoral cell behavior generated by both longshore sediment transport and abrupt episodic fluctuations in cross-shore transport. While past studies have investigated morphological change at this location, this unique single and dual cell behavior within the greater littoral system had not been previously revealed. This study demonstrates that sUASs are capable of capturing high-resolution spatial and temporal topographic data that allow for detailed evaluation of both seasonal processes and abrupt perturbations of beach systems. These processes drive significant changes in beach area, volume, and overall beach morphology and their understanding critical to effective management in an era of sea level rise-driven change. The employed methodology was designed to be highly efficient and universally applicable to sandy shorelines whilst also being relatively inexpensive and instrumentation readily available, allowing for a more comprehensive understanding of these unique coastal environments. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The main purpose of the research was to develop appropriate tools for forecasting the effects of storms. The use of the high-resolution SWAN wave model powered by AROME wind fields to couple it with the SWANOneSed sediment transport model and a model using the Ruggiero formula, predicting the extent of the flooded shore, allowed the development of reliable tools for forecasting the effects of storms. Validation using qualitative analysis showed that the results obtained from the coupled SWANOneSed model are characterized by high consistency in intensification and direction of changes. The model using the Ruggiero formula obtained a high value of the correlation coefficient, i.e. 0.970 and 0.992 for the Satbałtyk-Xbeach model data, based on the Hunt&Mase formula, and the high-resolution Pleiades Neo satellite data, respectively. By combining models from the SWAN family, i.e. the SWAN and SWANOneSed wave model and a model using the Ruggiero formula, it was possible to obtain reliable and compatible tools enabling an uninterrupted and synchronized operational process of generating forecasts of storm effects. [Display omitted] • The coupling of the SWAN & SWANOneSed enables reliable and operational forecasting. • Measured & terrain surveyed data-fed model are consistent with other observed data. • Formula van Rijn reliably reproduces sediment transport in various types of coasts. • The Ruggiero formula is applicable in various parts of the Polish coast. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Understanding sediment transport processes on natural sandy beaches is essential for gaining insights into beach recovery and making effective coastal management decisions. This study examines surfzone sediment transport rates related to beachface morphological variations on an embayed mesotidal sandy beach located on the northwestern coast of the Baja California Peninsula in Mexico. Data were collected during a week-long field experiment conducted in June 2016 under low-to-moderate wave energy conditions (H s = 0.4 − 1.3 m). Daily topographical surveys and continuous measurements of near-bottom suspended sediment fluxes were conducted alongside the application of an extended energetics-based model that accounted for velocity and acceleration skewness. Results reveal contrasting accretionary and erosive patterns in the inner surfzone, along with consistent sediment deposition in the swash zone throughout the study period. Onshore sediment transport is found to be related to short-period calm wave conditions (H s < 0.7 m; T p < 10 s) and a weak undertow (<0.2 ms−1). Alongshore nonuniform wave breaking, influenced by irregular bathymetry and moderate-energetic oblique waves from the northwest, contributes to an alongshore gradient in sediment transport rate, leading to erosion in the northern part of the intertidal beach and accretion in the southern part. Suspended sediment flux measurements at 0.2 m above the bed suggest offshore mean transport predominates over oscillatory transport throughout the field experiment. Nevertheless, this observation should be interpreted with caution, as the flux is not vertically integrated across the water column and does not consider fluid acceleration. The model predictions effectively replicate sediment transport rates and consequent volumetric changes (Accuracy = 55– 63 % ; RMSE = 44–69 m3; Bias = − 2 to −61 m3), although they underestimate observed accretion by a factor of three and overestimate erosion by a factor of two. Overall, this research highlights the complexities of natural sandy beach recovery processes in mesotidal environments and emphasizes the importance of considering both cross-shore and longshore components in sediment transport assessments. [Display omitted] • Beachface accretion remains consistent under low-to-moderate wave conditions. • Combined velocity- and acceleration-skewness model reproduces onshore sediment transport, but underestimates beachface accretion. • Erosive and accretive surfzone patterns are linked to nonuniform wave breaking influenced by bathymetry. • Undertow significantly governs offshore sediment flux near the seabed within the surfzone. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

• Flume experiments were conducted to assess the impact of submerged flexible vegetation on regular wave attenuation and beach morphology. • The presence of vegetation prevented further erosion of the beach, resulting in a reduction of 7% to 63% in experiments. • The attenuation caused by vegetation results in the wave breaking point being closer to the shoreline on vegetated sand, leading to shoreline retreat. • A dimensionless equation was developed to characterize the behaviour of the cross-shore beach profile under the protection of flexible vegetation. Coastal protection methods are evolving from hard engineering techniques to natural enhancement approaches. Aquatic vegetation provides an environmentally friendly solution by effectively dissipating waves and resisting erosion. Laboratory flume experiments were conducted to investigate the effect of submerged flexible vegetation on the regular wave attenuation and cross-shore profiles on the artificial plane beach under varying hydraulic conditions. Variations in the waveform, wave spectrum, and wave height were analysed in the vegetation zone. Results show vegetation distorts the waveform and accelerates the attenuation process of the wave energy, and wave height evolution behaves differently from the theoretically obtained attenuation by Mendez and Losada (2004) due to the underestimating vegetation-induced attenuation and neglecting sediment-induced attenuation. Additionally, the formation process of the winter and summer profiles of the vegetated beach was analysed by the screenshots. Regenerated wave breaking becomes more apparent with increasing wave periods. The critical surf similarity parameter of the vegetated beaches was found to be lower than that of a smooth, impermeable slope because of the energy dissipation. Vegetation did not alter the type of the beach profiles, as compared to the final profiles and their characteristic parameters of the unvegetated beaches. Instead, it reduced the erosion depth and brought the eroded area closer to the shoreline. Dimensionless parameters were formulated to characterize the response of the cross-shore beach profile under the shelter of flexible vegetation, and an empirical equation about maximum erosion depth was developed within the scope of the experiment. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This study investigated the beach nourishment effect and topographical changes when using nourishment sand with relatively large particle diameters to perform beach nourishment on a beach subject to erosion. A physical model test was conducted in a 2D wave flume with an installed wind tunnel. The experiment examined the sediment transport mechanism under conditions with wind and waves. Although applying nourishment sand with large particle diameters attenuated sediment transport, the increase in particle diameter was not always proportional to the reduction in topographical changes. Increasing the particle diameter of the nourishment sand increased the friction force between particles, resulting in large-scale erosion and accretion around the coastline, and this trend increased with winds. Also, with wind, the wave run-up height increased, the undertow became stronger, and large-scale scouring occurred at the boundary between the nourishment sand and the existing beach. Increasing the particle diameter of the nourishment sand played a role in reducing the run-up phenomenon (d50: 1.0 mm with 24–50%, d50: 5.0 mm with 59–83%), and the range of particles moved by winds also decreased (d50: 1.0 mm with 10–38%, d50: 5.0 mm with 5–37%).

The three-dimensional liquid–sediment system of a coastline was investigated using experimental and numerical approaches. A scaled-down model of the coastline was numerically studied using smooth particle hydrodynamics (SPH). The flow dynamics and the impacts of the wave frequency and the seaward slope angle on the breaking wave characteristics of the two-phase liquid–sediment interaction were parametrically studied. A particle image velocimetry (PIV) experiment was conducted to validate the SPH predictions. It was found that the flow profiles obtained by the PIV and SPH are in good agreement both qualitatively and quantitatively. The maximum velocity of the fluid flow was recorded as 0.5623 m/s in the SPH simulation, but as 0.5860 m/s in the PIV experimental, with a percentage difference of 4.21%. Subsequently, it was found that the breaking wave characteristic is surging at the wave frequency range of f<0.15 Hz, plunging at 0.15

Field measurements of aeolian sediment transport during major storm events are challenging in coastal settings due to the common coincidence of high winds with elevated water levels that can cover beaches. This work demonstrates a new application of lidar to remotely measure properties of wind‐blown sand transport at high spatial resolution. A data set of spatially continuous saltation heights was remotely developed from rapid (7.1 Hz) lidar scanning along a two‐dimensional transect across a beach during wind speeds of between 3.1 and 15.8 m/s associated with the passing of Tropical Storm Isaias. Outputs from the lidar demonstrate the ability to remotely observe the threshold velocity for the initiation of motion for sand transport and show that the upper limit of the saltation layer rises with increasing wind speed. Plain Language Summary: Wind can be an important contributor to landscape changes in sandy desert and coastal environments. There are complex mechanisms by which wind moves sand that are not yet entirely understood. To answer questions about how, when, and why sand is transported by wind, experiments commonly use point‐based sensors that are unable to capture the full spatial and temporal complexity of sand movement very close to the ground. This paper shows that new laser sensors can be utilized to remotely measure properties of sand transport simultaneously at multiple points and with increased detail compared to prior approaches. High resolution, remote measurements from a tropical storm event are used to show how high wind‐blown sand is lifted off of the ground surface and how different wind speeds influence these sand transport patterns. Key Points: Wind‐driven sand transport can be measured using repeat terrestrial laser scanningRemote measurements are used to characterize time and space variable saltation heights during energetic wind forcingMaximum saltation heights respond to changes in wind speed on a coastal beach [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Although geologically constrained sandy beaches are ubiquitous along wave-exposed coasts, there is still a limited understanding of their morphological response, particularly under storm conditions, which is mainly due to a critical lack of nearshore bathymetry observations. This paper examines the potential to derive bathymetries from video imagery under challenging wave conditions in order to investigate headland control on morphological beach response. For this purpose, a video-based linear depth inversion algorithm is applied to three consecutive weeks of frames collected during daylight hours from a single fixed camera located at La Petite Chambre d'Amour beach (Anglet, SW France). Video-derived bathymetries are compared against in situ topo-bathymetric surveys carried out at the beginning and end of the field experiment in order to assess the performance of the bathymetric estimates. The results show that the rates of accretion/erosion within the surf zone are strongly influenced by the headland, whereas the beach morphological response can be classified into three main regimes depending on the angle of wave incidence θ p : (1) under deflection configuration ( θ p > 0 ° ), the alongshore sediment transport was trapped at the updrift side of the headland, promoting sand accretion. (2) Under shadowed configuration ( θ p < 0 ° ), the interruption of the longshore current drove a deficit of sand supply at the downdrift side of the headland, leading to an overall erosion in the surf zone. (3) Under shore-normal configuration ( θ p = 0 ° ), rip channels developed, and up-state beach transition was observed. A comparison between video-derived bathymetries and surveys shows an overall root mean square error (RMSE) around 0.49 to 0.57 m with a bias ranging between −0.36 and −0.29 m. The results show that video-derived bathymetries can provide new insight into the morphological change driven by storm events. The combination of such inferred bathymetry with video-derived surface current data is discussed, showing great potential to address the coupled morphodynamics system under time-varying wave conditions. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Cheng, J. and Wang, P., 2022. Factors controlling storm-induced morphology changes at an erosional hot spot on a nourished beach, Sand Key barrier island, west-central Florida. Journal of Coastal Research, 38(4), 750–765. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. Beach nourishment has become the dominant sandy shore protection method over the past 40 years. The performance of nourished beaches and therefore the design of renourishment projects are significantly controlled by the presence of erosional hot spots and storm impacts. Based on 5.5-year bimonthly beach profile surveys, along a nourished beach spanning an erosional hot spot, this study examines the hydrodynamic conditions of extratropical (winter) and tropical (summer) storms that cause significant morphology changes. The sand volume loss above the short-term closure depth averaged along the 1.8-km stretch erosional hot spot was 178 m3/m over the 5.5 years after the nourishment. A large portion of this volume loss was caused by several extratropical storms and Hurricane Irma in 2017, when the high, northerly approaching waves were associated with a depressed water level. The northerly approaching waves induced a large longshore sediment transport gradient along the generally north-south trending coast due to wave refraction over a nearby ebb tidal delta. The energetic Hurricane Irma induced a large negative surge and also transported sediment seaward beyond the short-term closure depth. On the other hand, during the passages of typical tropical storms, the southerly approaching waves superimposed on elevated water levels caused substantial beach volume loss above the mean sea level. The eroded sediment deposited on the nearshore sandbar, resulting in conserved sand volume above the short-term closure depth. Understanding the different beach response to extratropical and tropical storms would benefit beach management, especially under the circumstance of increasing storm activities due to climate change. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Coastal erosion is a natural phenomenon that occurs when sediment transport away from the coast is not countered by the formation of new material on the shoreline. This is indeed a problem that is driving the erosion of coastal areas. A sea wall and a groin were created to prevent coastal erosion and floods. The future topography of the beach is being investigated using shoreline evolution analysis. Erosion, accretion, and sea level changes are basic stages that have a significant impact on the coastal structure. A qualitative analysis of the model coastal behavior in relation to the controlling process is required to research beach erosion and beach deposition. When stated in terms of non-dimensional variables, all are mathematically equivalent. In general, the models do not have to be dimensionally different. Those might just be modifications of the same problems. One can solve a wide range of models with a single solution to the related nondimensional equation. In this research, we provide a governing equation when a groin is introduced to a one-dimensional shoreline growth model. A non-dimensional shoreline evolution model with a groin structure model is provided. The model now has the ability to manipulate physical parameters. When groin structural effects are present, the initial condition setting method and boundary condition approaches are also given. To approximate the incremental model in each year, the forward time-centered space technique and the unconditionally stable Saulyev finite difference methods are used. The Saulyev finite difference approach can handle numerical solutions in almost any scenario since the stability requirements are not restricted. The Saulyev finite difference technique can be very useful for computing a practical conceptual design of shoreline evolution since the number of grids has increased. The numerical models offered provide a viable simulation for evaluating long-term coastal development. The proposed modeling may be used to forecast the effectiveness of constructing a groin system on a local beach. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Beach erosion at the unprotected downdrift end of a groin is common with waves approaching the structure obliquely. This phenomenon has often occurred on the downdrift side of natural groins on the east coast of South Korea during high waves in winter months. The resulting planform assumes a distinctive crenulate shape with a maximum indentation point landward of the erosion. An analytical model is employed to study the beach erosion at the downdrift end of a natural rock groin at Jeongdongjin Beach in Korea, using mathematical equations derived from the parabolic model for headland-bay beaches in static equilibrium, to predict the downdrift control point and maximum indentation of the eroded shoreline. These equations are solved using the prevailing wave height, wave angle at breaking and wave direction derived from analyzing NOAA's wave data over 40 years and the longshore sediment transport rate calculated from the wave data. The location of the calculated maximum indentation is also verified using shoreline video monitoring data and compared with the result of a one-line numerical model for shoreline change. The limitation of the proposed analytical model is discussed as is the effect of sediment bypassing the groin. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

To evaluate the annual sediment dispersal pattern, a year-long beach profile monitoring and granulometric analysis were adopted along the Kundapura estuarine beaches of coastal Karnataka. The river mouth is bounded by breakwaters and the coast is armoured by seawalls and groins. Beaches adjacent to the breakwater showed progradation as a result of the shadow zone created due to the sheltering effect from incident waves. Evidence also comes from the replacement of coarser mode sediments by finer. Those away from the shadow zone, however, experienced extensive erosion. They are subjected to along-shore drift and minimal replacement from the same. It was also observed that despite being tropical estuarine beaches, sediments did not show any affinity towards a fluvial-derived character. These points towards transport of fine sediments further offshore and retention of coarser fraction in the surf zone that is to be carried shoreward. Breakwaters in turn facilitate this by channelising the river discharge farther in the sea. Evidence towards the same is also provided by the well-sorted to moderately well-sorted nature of the sediments. Breakwaters were thus observed to highly influence the sediment dispersion and distribution along an estuarine coast. This study will provide knowledge on the role of coastal structures in sediment dispersion while framing future coastal protection strategies for the conservation of the coast. Research highlights: Progradation of beaches adjacent to the breakwaters due to sheltering from direct waves whereas erosion of beaches away from the influence of these structures is observed. Extensive engineered coast has resulted in the narrowing of the natural beach width making it reflective with a high-energy environment thus accelerating further erosion. Due to this, the beach has lost its recreational value. The along-shore drift directions derived considering beach morphology, beach volume change and beach sedimentology, along with the mode of transport and environmental affinity of sediments provide a comprehensive understanding of sediment dispersal pattern along the coast. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]