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The youngest daughter of one of the northwest of England's largest cotton magnates, Annie Barlow, was a well-educated and passionate woman. At the time of studying English Literature and History in London in 1880 to 1882 she became involved with the newly formed Egypt Exploration Fund, and at just nineteen years old became one of the first, and youngest, Honorary Local Secretaries for Bolton and the surrounding area—a roll she held for almost sixty years up to her death in 1941. The social circles opened to her by her father and brothers included world business leaders, academics and royalty. Through lectures, exhibitions and many cups of tea, Annie proclaimed the work of the fund across the United Kingdom, while modestly keeping her own efforts unannounced. Her fundraising surpassed that of many other local secretaries and led to the amassing of the largest collection of Egyptology in a local authority museum in the UK at Bolton Museum. Her travels took her far and wide, and she too built a sizeable collection of antiquities. Her passion for history, driven by a desire for educational development and religious devotion, was transmitted to those whom she met. It was through her influence and intimate knowledge of textile production that Bolton and its first curators became a renowned center for textile analysis, with excavators sending material to Bolton to aid their interpretations. During the First World War, Annie and her family homed European refugees. Her support for one girl in particular, Raymonde Frin, became a life-long friendship. Growing up under the wing of Annie, and surrounded by private collections of ancient material, Raymonde developed a passion for archaeology. Annie's financial legacy directly supported the development of Raymonde's life. Eventually achieving formal archaeological qualifications, she went on to be an integral part of the newly formed UNESCO museums and monuments division, becoming its first editor for Museums International Magazine, and involved in projects to save Egyptian heritage. This paper will look at the two women, Annie and Raymonde, within the context of women collecting and museum work, and their legacy for collections, in particular Egyptology, to the current day. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

AbstractWhen we attempt to read visual messages in styles of dress within mass media such as film, it can help enlighten understanding of ourselves and nuanced messages we portray from a diverse range of cultures. Explained in qualitative methods, this paper explores pre- and post-World War II Japanese transnational dress through Mizoguchi 1956 film Akasen Chitai (Street Of Shame) and Imamura 1961 Buta to Gunkan (Pigs and Battleships), comparing how the clothed female body is reflective of political shifts in pre- and post-WWII Japanese culture. In order to contextualize and thus gain a clearer understanding of Japanese culture from both Japanese and Western perspectives, it is necessary to reflect on some of the history of Japan’s textiles pre-WWII and the garments produced by showing visual examples of them. In film, women’s bodies represent not only their own gender, but the role of men in society as well, which is true in real life. Imamura clearly looks at the human body as a context for society, applied specifically to how the female body is represented through what clothing and textiles she wears on her body, when and why; enabling the audience to decode cultural meanings as well as wider global, social and political significance. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This article presents studies on the evaluation of the impact of surface modification of cotton, viscose, and polyester fabrics using three techniques (flocking, layer by layer, and screen printing) with materials with electrically conductive properties on their structural, biophysical, and conductive properties. Each tested fabric is characterized by specific biophysical properties. which can be disturbed by various modification methods, therefore, the following tests were carried out in the article: optical microscopy, micro-computed tomography, guarded perspiration heating plate, air permeability, sorption and electrical conductivity tester. The use of screen printing increased the thermal resistance of the cotton woven fabric by 119%, the polyester woven fabric by 156%, and the viscose fabric by 261%. The smallest changes in thermal resistance compared to unmodified textiles were observed in layer by layer modified fabrics and are as follows: −15% (cotton woven fabric), +77% (PES woven fabric), and +80% (viscose woven fabric). [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The ecological transition requires the transformation of consumers' practices. However, for this transformation to occur, consumers must first be aware of the impacts of their practices. This article aims to understand how such awareness is achieved, through the study of textile materials in clothing. The analysis of 21 interviews conducted twice reveals the stages of the awareness process of textile materials. Reflection (moving from lived experience to representations) and then disadaptation (events creating a discrepancy between reality and representations) lead to conceptualization, from which the ethical issues involved gradually emerge. The first level of awareness concerns the impacts of textile materials on the durability of clothing. The second level concerns their impacts on the living world. These results, which fall within the scope of Transformative Consumer Research, provide guidelines to support changes in consumers' practices toward a more ethical consumption. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This paper describes methods for evaluating the thermal properties of textile materials, clothing composites, and clothing using an integrated measurement system that includes a hot plate, a multi-purpose differential conductometer, a thermal manikin, a temperature gradient measurement device, and a device for measuring the physiological parameters of the human body during the exact evaluation of garment thermal comfort. In practice, measurements were taken on four types of materials widely used in the production of conventional and protective clothing. The measurements were carried out using a hot plate and a multi-purpose differential conductometer, determining the thermal resistance of the material both in its uncompressed form and when a force was applied that was ten times greater than that needed to determine its thickness. Using a hot plate and a multi-purpose differential conductometer, thermal resistances of textile materials were assessed at different levels of material compression. On hot plates, both conduction and convection had an impact on thermal resistance, but in the multi-purpose differential conductometer, only conduction did. Moreover, a reduction in thermal resistance was observed as a result of compressing textile materials. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This study is to provide guidance for selection of potential publishing outlets by family and consumer sciences (FCS) researchers utilizing three research journals: Family and Consumer Sciences Research Journal, Journal of Consumer Affairs, and Journal of Retailing. Content analysis revealed trends in methodology and a focus on selling product or on people as part of the human ecosystem, enhancing the human condition, or a combination. All three journals included FCS content. Identification of journal characteristics which may enter into the decision‐making process of selecting possible publishing outlet for educators, researchers and young professionals is discussed. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The TASER® is a type of conducted energy weapon (CEW) used with increasing frequency by law enforcement to subdue subjects in circumstances where compliance is necessary. When operated in the drive stun method of deployment, the electrodes at the head of this CEW are intended to make direct contact with a surface, generating heat and light which may result in burn marks as a by‐product of the electrical discharge that occurs. This research aims to tackle a crucial gap in CEW research that fails to address the appearance of burn marks on fabrics. A drive stun duration (DSD) of 1, 3, and 5 s was used with three TASER models (X26P, X2, & TASER 7) on three fabrics (white 100% cotton, 100% polyester, 35:65 cotton‐polyester blend) with an underlying backing of pork hock. Using a Keyence VHX‐6000 confocal microscope, high magnification images were taken to observe any qualitative changes to the fabric. On polyester fabric, with increasing DSD, darker brown discoloration occurred. Additionally, on polyester fabric, the spatial orientation of the burn marks corresponded with that of the electrodes at the muzzle of each TASER model. These features enabled the correct identification of the TASER model and DSD on polyester fabric in the blind tests performed. Evidence of burn marks on cotton and blend fabrics were both limited and inconsistent such that no features were sufficiently unique to link them to any TASER model or DSD. Despite this, overall features such as discoloration and the formation of holes on these fabric types may be sufficiently unique to suggest the use of a CEW. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The article aims to review the changes that have taken place in the European and global TCLF (Textiles‑Clothing‑Leather‑Footwear) sector over the last decade from the perspective of new requirements of pursuing a circular and, especially in recent years, a digital economy. The paper describes the changes in the components of this industry (formerly called the light industry) in the European Union and the world economy in the context of sustainable development requirements and the effects of climate change. Recent European and global programs mainly aim to achieve the circular economy’s strict requirements, including reducing pressure on natural resources, to achieve climate neutrality by the end of 2050. This positive change for our planet is also supported by the pursuit of the development of the digital economy.

Antimicrobial textiles are functionally active textiles, which may kill the microorganisms or inhibit their growth. The present article explores the applications of different synthetic and natural antimicrobial compounds used to prepare antimicrobial textiles. Different types of antimicrobial textiles including: antibacterial, antifungal and antiviral have also been discussed. Different strategies and methods used for the detection of a textile's antimicrobial properties against bacterial and fungal pathogens as well as viral particles have also been highlighted. These antimicrobial textiles are used in a variety of applications ranging from households to commercial including air filters, food packaging, health care, hygiene, medical, sportswear, storage, ventilation and water purification systems. Public awareness on antimicrobial textiles and growth in commercial opportunities has been observed during past few years. Not only antimicrobial properties, but its durability along with the color, prints and designing are also important for fashionable clothing; thus, many commercial brands are now focusing on such type of materials. Overall, this article summarizes the scientific aspect dealing with different fabrics including natural or synthetic antimicrobial agents along with their current functional perspective and future opportunities. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Textile and clothing industry (T&C) is the second largest industry in the manufacturing sector. Currently, the industry operates on a linear model. Its value-chain is associated with several problems such as environment pollution (solid wastes, effluent discharges, air pollution, and emission of greenhouse gases), and resources extraction and depletion (raw materials, water, energy). These problems present the challenges that are addressed in this paper. These problems are further exacerbated by the rapid growth in population and attendant need for economic growth. There is therefore need to begin to address how to make the industry more sustainable. This will entail reviewing the entire T&C value chain from raw material extraction to post-consumption of its products. Nigeria, an emerging economy is used as a proxy for the study. The management of textile/clothing wastes in Nigeria does not follow best practices, as the wastes are generally, disposed at dumpsites. Even though Nigeria is rich in natural resources to produce textiles, the country largely depends on importation of finished T&C goods. This paper uses three models namely: new business model, efficient waste management system, and regenerative production processes and materials to demonstrate how the industry can become more sustainable. This effort will focus on reuse and recycling of textile and clothing products. Emphasis is built on eco-design to encourage proper waste management system to support recovery, reprocessing, reuse, and recycling of textile and clothing products.

This paper describes methods for evaluating the thermal properties of textile materials, clothing composites, and clothing using an integrated measurement system that includes a hot plate, a multi-purpose differential conductometer, a thermal manikin, a temperature gradient measurement device, and a device for measuring the physiological parameters of the human body during the exact evaluation of garment thermal comfort. In practice, measurements were taken on four types of materials widely used in the production of conventional and protective clothing. The measurements were carried out using a hot plate and a multi-purpose differential conductometer, determining the thermal resistance of the material both in its uncompressed form and when a force was applied that was ten times greater than that needed to determine its thickness. Using a hot plate and a multi-purpose differential conductometer, thermal resistances of textile materials were assessed at different levels of material compression. On hot plates, both conduction and convection had an impact on thermal resistance, but in the multi-purpose differential conductometer, only conduction did. Moreover, a reduction in thermal resistance was observed as a result of compressing textile materials.

Since gait can be utilized to identify individuals from a far distance without their interaction and coordination, recently many gait recognition methods have been proposed. However, due to a real-world scenario of clothing changes, a degradation occurs for most of these methods. Thus in this paper, a more efficient gait recognition method is proposed to address the problem of clothing variances. First, part-based gait features are formulated from two different perspectives, i.e., the separated body parts that are more robust to clothing changes and the estimated human skeleton key-point regions. It is reasonable to formulate such features for cloth-changing gait recognition, because these two perspectives are both less vulnerable to clothing changes. Given that each feature has its own advantages and disadvantages, a more efficient gait feature is generated in this paper by assembling these two features together. Moreover, since local features are more discriminative than global features, in this paper more attention is focused on the local short-range features. Also, unlike most methods, in our method we treat the estimated key-point features as a set of word embeddings, and a transformer encoder is specifically used to learn the dependence of each correlative key-points. The robustness and effectiveness of our proposed method are certified by experiments on CASIA Gait Dataset B, and it has achieved the state-of-the-art performance on this dataset. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

University fashion and textiles collections add value and opportunities for teaching, research and community outreach. Collections within the United States are housed within private and public, large and small colleges and universities, with foci reflecting the greater institutional and departmental mission, history and geographic setting. Professionals often wear multiple hats within their collection and serve in additional roles in the larger units they represent. This conceptual article aims to present a fashion and textiles collection matrix (FTCM) as a means of self-study, particularly in areas where collection professionals are typically not trained. It is a tool for self-assessment within the domains of organizational structure, resource allocation and outreach and impact. Using the FTCM, faculty, staff and administrators can identify areas within their structure that they are optimal, proficient or under development, in order to celebrate accomplishments and recognize growth opportunities. We present a sample FCTM, highlighting how collection personnel might take the next steps to prioritize goals and create action steps appropriate for their local context. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Fashion museum exhibitions are spaces for the public to learn about their own and other communities' historical and cultural narratives. However, numerous fashion museums have largely excluded exhibition topics focused on marginalized communities in the United States. This research explores how visitors responded to a museum exhibition that focused on Black women's clothing styles in a predominantly White geographical location and space. We first review past museum practices that have perpetuated exclusivity within the museum, along with more recent initiatives to create fashion exhibitions where culturally diverse groups are represented. We then report the findings from a museum visitor survey from our recently mounted exhibition titled 'Collegiate Fashion and Activism: Black Women's Styles on the College Campus.' Last, we provide recommendations for fashion museum professionals considering diversity initiatives. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

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In this paper, we tackle the problem of static 3D cloth draping on virtual human bodies. We introduce a two-stream deep network model that produces a visually plausible draping of a template cloth on virtual 3D bodies by extracting features from both the body and garment shapes. Our network learns to mimic a physics-based simulation (PBS) method while requiring two orders of magnitude less computation time. To train the network, we introduce loss terms inspired by PBS to produce plausible results and make the model collision-aware. To increase the details of the draped garment, we introduce two loss functions that penalize the difference between the curvature of the predicted cloth and PBS. Particularly, we study the impact of mean curvature normal and a novel detail-preserving loss both qualitatively and quantitatively. Our new curvature loss computes the local covariance matrices of the 3D points, and compares the Rayleigh quotients of the prediction and PBS. This leads to more details while performing favorably or comparably against the loss that considers mean curvature normal vectors in the 3D triangulated meshes. We validate our framework on four garment types for various body shapes and poses. Finally, we achieve superior performance against a recently proposed data-driven method. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This research investigates sorption of PCBs to fabrics in a contaminated indoor environment and the effect of laundering on PCB removal from the fabrics. Eight articles of clothing were exposed to the air in a PCB‐contaminated building. The background air concentration was 670 ng/m3 PCBtotal with PCB‐52 being the main congener. Air and fabric samples were collected for analysis before and periodically throughout the experiment. After 25 weeks, the remaining fabrics were washed and cut into three pieces each. One part was dried in the contaminated building, second in a PCB‐free building and third in a mechanical drier. The PCB mass concentration increased during the first 6–10 weeks for all investigated fabrics, after which some fabrics approached equilibrium for more volatile congeners. Mass‐normalized cloth‐air partition coefficients were quantified for 9 congeners; for PCB‐52, these ranged from 106.1 to 107.0 which were consistent with previously reported values. Partition coefficients of PCBs were observed to increase with their respective octanol‐air partition coefficients. Washing and drying clothes resulted in the removal between 22% and 84% of PCBs. There was no difference in removal percentage after air‐drying in clean or contaminated air. Drying in a mechanical drier removed significantly more PCBs than air‐drying. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

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In the fashion industry, the circular economy (CE) may be mobilised for many agendas, from a superficial approach to reducing waste and using recycled materials to a more radical proposition for societal transformation towards sustainable production and consumption. For fashion educators, the CE is, therefore, an important new facet of sustainability education and one that must be approached with critical nuance, as the representation of the CE in the media have the potential to frame students' understanding. To evaluate the discourse created around fashion and the CE in the mainstream media, 476 published articles were analysed between 2016 and 2020. The findings revealed that the media sidelined cultural perspectives of CE while promoting its technical dimension. The concluding part of this paper makes suggestions on how best to engage students in the CE conversation with a critical approach that considers pressing consumption issues in fashion. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The limits of the present linear economy model (take-make-waste) are well illustrated by the textile and clothing sector, one of the most indispensable consumer goods industries. Although a huge increase in the number of publications on the circular economy can be observed, the number of papers analyzing consumers’ attitudes and behavior toward circular fashion, especially the ones comparing consumers from different regions, is still limited. The article aimed to assess consumers’ attitudes toward circular fashion and draw a cross country comparison in this respect. The research focused on the three pillars of the latest EU Sustainable Product Policy Framework, i.e., designing sustainable products, empowering consumers, and circularity in production processes. An online survey and convenience sampling were used to collect valid responses from two countries (i.e., Canada and Poland) with different cultures, levels of economic development, and approaches to environmental and social issues. The results showed that significant differences between the countries emerged to a greater extent regarding consumers’ attitudes toward environmental labels for fashion products and sustainable buying behavior. The Polish respondents perceived the need for such labels to a greater extent. The Canadian ones, on the other hand, turned out to be more willing to choose sustainable clothing and reduce consumption. The differences between the countries were much less conspicuous as regards circular cues and circularity in fashion production processes. They appeared only in the case of clothing durability and the impact of production processes on air quality. Those aspects turned out to be more important for Polish respondents.

A través de una metodología situada en mi historia personal y comunitaria en este ensayo describo una propuesta para reestructurar las metodologías utilizadas en el estudio de textiles de las comunidades indígenas. En este caso tomo como objeto de estudio el huipil usado en mi comunidad, Villa Hidalgo Yalálag, para poder complejizar las contradicciones, las problemáticas y los retos a los que nos enfrentamos las investigadoras indígenas al hablar del uso y producción de textiles en nuestros entramados comunitarios. Through a methodology rooted in my personal and community history, in this essay I describe a proposal that aims to restructure the methodologies used in the study of textiles from indigenous communities. In this case, I take as an object of study the huipil used in my community, Villa Hidalgo Yalálag, in order to to problematize the contradictions and challenges faced by indigenous researchers when discussing the use and production of textiles in our community frameworks. Através de uma metodologia centrada na minha história pessoal e comunitária, em este ensaio descrevo uma proposta de reestruturação das metodologias utilizadas nos estudos dos têxteis das comunidades indígenas. Como exemplo tomo o estudo do hupil usado na minha comunidade Villa Hidalgo Yalálag, para poder complexar as contradições, as problemáticas e os retos que temos de enfrentar as pesquisadoras indígenas quando falamos do uso e a produção de têxteis nas nossas tramas comunitárias.

During the Ottoman Empire, which was established in Anatolia after the Seljuks, many developments were made in the name of art for 600 years. Especially thanks to the Ottoman Empire's value to the artist and art, very good works have been produced in many fields. In addition to branches such as calligraphy, illumination, miniature and marbling, fabrics, carpets and rugs, which attract the attention of the whole world in the field of textile, were also woven. The art of weaving experienced its brightest period in terms of weaving technique, color and pattern in the Ottoman Empire. It is understood that weaving, which continued to be produced traditionally in Ottoman cities, continued its existence as an important cultural element and sector. The clothes of the Ottoman sultans kept after their death and the qualities of the fabrics used in the palace convey very important information at the point of understanding the importance of weaving. The diversity and richness of the weavings and textiles produced in many documents belonging to the period can be clearly seen. In this context, this rich weaving and textile diversity has taken an important place in Turkish culture. Especially this rich variety of weaving and textiles has been painted by many painters in almost every period and has gained an important place in terms of conveying information about their periods. In this study, some of Halil Pasha's paintings in which he displayed an objective and objective approach with a realistic style, some of which are in an orientalist style, are discussed as subject. In the study, will focus on Halil Pasha's life, his understanding of art and the textiles and clothing he depicted in some of his paintings. The textiles and clothes in the paintings were discussed in terms of characteristics such as color, pattern, and texture. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In 1950, Margrethe Hald published an unremarkable textile find from a peat bog called Vong in Denmark. The find has now been 14C dated to the 15th century CE, placing it in a time period for which few textiles are preserved. Although the precise clothing type cannot yet be recognised, the Vong bog find sheds new light on textile types and their uses and reuse in the Late Medieval period. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Wireless technologies are essential components of wearable devices for applications ranging from connected healthcare to human–machine interfaces. Their performance, however, is hindered by the human body, which obstructs the propagation of wireless signals over a wide range of directions. Here, we demonstrate conformal propagation and near-omnidirectional radiation of wireless signals near the body using clothing integrated with spoof surface plasmonic (SSP) structures. These structures, fabricated entirely from conductive textiles, induce wireless signals emitted by nearby antennas to propagate around the body as surface waves and radiate as propagating waves in directions otherwise obstructed by the body. We describe the procedure for designing textile-based spoof surface plasmon waveguides, radiating elements, and impedance matching sections for operation in the 2.4–2.5 GHz industrial, scientific, and medical (ISM) band. Using a tissue phantom model of the human torso, we experimentally demonstrate 2.62 greater angular coverage by a dipole placed near the body compared to without the clothing. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This special thematic section of Island Studies Journal explores textiles and clothing from an island studies perspective. While there are many examples of textiles and clothing associated with particular islands, an explicitly island studies approach to them has not been fully developed. Such an approach offers the scholar of textiles and clothing a comparative perspective on disparate examples, and invites investigation of ‘island-ness’ beyond its frequent use in branding for a limited range of ‘heritage’ products. Within island studies, the often- remarked combination of materiality and symbolism in textiles and clothing provides insight into ‘island-ness’ in the round, encompassing environments, economies, communities and cultural imaginaries. This section includes work on the pánu di téra of Cape Verde, cloth circulation in Madagascar, and textile craft and the creative economy in Shetland.

Healthcare workers’ (HCW) clothing has been shown to harbor multidrug-resistant bacteria (MDRB) and may contribute to transmission. The aim of this study was to evaluate presence of MDRB on HCW uniforms in Cyprus. A cross-sectional study was carried out in 9 hospital wards and 7 long-term care facilities (LTCFs) in Nicosia, Cyprus, from April–August 2019. Sampling of HCW uniform pockets was conducted at the end of the first shift. Personal hygiene and other habits were recorded during personal interviews. Among 140 sampled HCW (69 from hospitals, 71 from LTCFs), 37 MDRB were identified, including 16 vancomycin-resistant enterococci (VRE), 15 methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus (MRSA), 5 extended spectrum b-lactamase (ESBL)-producing bacteria, and 1 carbapenem-resistant Acinetobacter baumannii. Presence of MDRB was higher in LTCFs compared to hospitals (p = 0.03). Higher MDRB rates in uniforms were noted in HCWs that worked

Collection SU4522 in the Finno-Ugric Collections of the National Museum of Finland consists of 143 items, mainly textiles from nineteenth-century White Karelia, now part of the current Russia. Forty-one linen textiles were chosen for closer examination, with the aim of evaluating the area's textile culture and identifying the materials using microscopic methods. Flax, hemp and nettle have all been traditional materials for clothing in northern Europe. Additionally, cotton became established in the region during the nineteenth century. Previous research lacked such a deep examination of the textile materials used, leaving room for speculation. Stinging nettle has not been shown before to have been used as a textile material in the Karelian area. Our results show that it appeared commonly in rätsinä-shirts and käspaikka-towels. Against the consensus hemp was rare and appeared only in one of the items. The results are mirrored by concurrent pictorial and written material from I. K. Inha who visited the region in 1894 and collected most of the items in the collection. White Karelian textile traditions from clothing to fabrics, weaving, spinning and fiber production are discussed in the article. Nevertheless, questions concerning the origins of the materials and the effects of the peddling tradition would need further research. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Any textiles intended for outdoor usage, particularly in a hot climate with intense sunlight, must be designed and engineered to provide cooling comfort to the wearer. In the case of apparel, clothing creates a microclimate that helps the body maintain its regular thermoregulatory and physiological activities while offering protection against outdoor exposure to UV rays. It is well known that fabrics that absorb significant amounts of solar radiation become inherently hot and feel uncomfortable. This article presents a review of the fundamental radiation interaction mechanisms of fabrics and discusses the key role that fabric structure plays in fabric radiation absorption to determine how cool or hot a fabric will become when exposed to sunlight. A new parameter called the Solar Absorption Index (SAI) is introduced and can be used to characterise the level of coolness (or hotness) of a fabric exposed to solar radiation. The SAI is calculated directly from the fabric's temperature, ultimately the main factor in determining fabric ability to stay cool. The discussion presented in this article focuses solely on the interaction between solar radiation and fabrics without considering the effects of convection, conduction or any interdependency with the moisture level in the environment. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The research orientation in this paper focuses on the analysis of changes in the competitiveness of the Western Balkan countries' textile industry in the European Union market. The export orientation of these countries' manufacturing industries and their long-term linkage to the production and trade flows of European integration processes are part of a broader effort to establish sustainable growth models for these transition economies. For the purpose of complex analysis and measurement of the export competitiveness of one industry of these national economies, methodology based on data on international trade -the Trade Performance Index (TPI) as well as the Revealed Comparative Advantage index (RCA) indicators, using the formula Balas, was used. The results of measuring the export competitiveness of textiles and clothing from the Western Balkan countries to the EU-28 market indicate the continued growth of the market share and the existence of its identified comparative advantages. This leads to the conclusion that there are positive dynamics of change and growing competitiveness of this industry. However, the relatively high level of specialisation of the region for the export of these products and its dominant share in the total exports of individual countries indicates the absence or slowness of structural changes necessary for faster economic growth. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Background. Traditional monitoring of athletes during sports has long been hampered by bulky, complicated and tethered systems. In the past decade, this has changed due to the miniaturization of sensors and improvement of systems to store and transmit data. These systems have been integrated into textiles to create 'smart clothing' which has been so ubiquitous that a review of the recent literature is crucial for understanding its full potential and potential use in extreme sports. Methods. An electronic data base search was performed from 2003 to April 2019 for full length articles including "Smart" AND "Clothing" OR "Clothing" AND "Sport(s)" written in English with human subjects. Articles were evaluated according to the Newcastle-Ottawa Scale. Results. Twenty-four studies resulted in 18 systems comprised of 22 types of clothing with various capabilities, including: monitoring heart rate, electromyography, respiratory rate, steps, GPS, energy expenditure, posture, body temperature and identifying the activity. Conclusions. Many types of smart clothing from socks and gloves, to pants, shirts and bras are increasingly utilized to monitor sports activity worldwide and gather previously unavailable, yet highly valuable data. This provides a unique opportunity to study athletes during training and competition, potentially providing more effective training and better safety protocols. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The appearance of fabric motion is suggested to affect the human perception of bending stiffness. This study presents a novel spatial augmented reality, or projection mapping, approach that can visually manipulate the perceived bending stiffness of a fabric. Particularly, we proposed a flow enhancement method that can change the apparent fabric motion by using a simple optical flow analysis technique rather than complex physical simulations for interactive applications. Through a psychophysical experiment, we investigated the relationship between the magnification factor of our flow enhancement and the perceived bending stiffness of a fabric. Furthermore, we constructed a prototype application system that allows users to control the stiffness of a fabric without changing the actual physical fabric. By evaluating the prototype, we confirmed that the proposed technique can manipulate the perceived stiffness of various materials (i.e., cotton, polyester, and mixed cotton and linen) at an average accuracy of 90.3 percent. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The study presented here is aimed at analysing the current state of clothing trade in the Balkan states. The dynamics of change over a 15‐year period following economic reforms are revealed. The clothing industries play a significant role and continue to contribute to the economic prosperity of countries with an inexpensive labour force. For most Balkan States clothing’s export plays an important role in promoting economic growth and development – for example, exports of garments Albania was in 2015, 16.81% of its exports, Republic of Macedonia 11.75% of its exports, in Turkey10.51% etc. The main factors which influence the level of competitiveness of clothing products from the Balkans are the gross value added per employee and wages. When the producers of the Balkan countries will create products with higher added value in garment industry the competitiveness of these countries will decrease. Also rising wages in this industry, as a result of trade union pressure or government policy, will lead to decreasing competitiveness of these products on the EU market and implicitly to the decrease of exports of garments from these countries. The main challenges that must face the Balkan States are related to restructuring of economic system, changing trade markets and patterns, declining of domestic demand of most merchandise, reduction of competitive ability, narrow export base, and lower economies of scale. The main opportunities that most of these countries can exploit are related to their geographical position, membership of the EU market, infrastructure in garment sector, and highly skilled workforce.

A prototype of constant temperature drying rate (DRCT) tester (CTDRT) was built to evaluate the DRCT of fabrics. The sample platform is kept at constant temperature and was placed on the balance. The platform temperature is adjustable to simulate different skin temperatures. A heater was placed underneath the sample platform, but it did not have any contact with the sample platform. This novel noncontact heating system enables real-time measurement of water evaporation in the sample throughout the whole experiment. In addition to DRCT, comprehensive information such as water absorption, water spreading, and other fabric drying features can be obtained from CTDRT. In addition, negative pressure gradient system of CTDRT can help to maintain constant atmospheric conditions at negligible wind speed, thereby enhancing the stability and sensitivity of measurement. The DRCT, a key parameter of CTDRT, of 28 fabrics investigated is between 0.36 and 2.56 mL/h at the skin temperature of 37 °C. The validity and repeatability of CTDRT were also confirmed with statistical evidence. The testing duration for CTDRT ranges from 15 to 40 min, which is similar to those of other drying methods where heat is applied, but is much faster than the conventional nonheating methods. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This special thematic section of Island Studies Journal explores textiles and clothing from an island studies perspective. While there are many examples of textiles and clothing associated with particular islands, an explicitly island studies approach to them has not been fully developed. Such an approach offers the scholar of textiles and clothing a comparative perspective on disparate examples, and invites investigation of ‘island-ness’ beyond its frequent use in branding for a limited range of ‘heritage’ products. Within island studies, the often remarked combination of materiality and symbolism in textiles and clothing provides insight into "island-ness" in the round, encompassing environments, economies, communities and cultural imaginaries. This section includes work on the pánu di téra of Cape Verde, cloth circulation in Madagascar, and textile craft and the creative economy in Shetland. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Purpose As one natural fiber, spun silk is one of the top-grade textile materials and has attracted more and more attentions on textile processing. The purpose of this paper is to introduce one kind of pneumatic compact spinning, four-line compact spinning (FLCS), into the silk spinning, and study and comparatively analyze corresponding yarn and fabric qualities.Design/methodology/approach First, two kinds of spun silk and viscose blend yarns, 120 Nm (8.3 tex) and 205 Nm (4.9 tex), were spun on the common ring spinning frame FK501 and spinning frame modified by FLCS, respectively. Then, after the plying and singeing procedures, the ply yarns 120 and 205 Nm/2 were produced. The evenness, breaking strength, and hairiness of the spun bobbin yarns and ply yarns were tested and comparatively analyzed. Then, properties of corresponding woven fabric, including the weight, thickness, permeability, stiffness, softness, smoothness, draping, wrinkle recovery, hand-touching (RHV), were measured and comparatively analyzed.Findings For the spun yarns, it is shown that by using the compact spinning method, the comprehensive quality of spun-silk blend bobbin and ply yarns are improved. For the fabrics, it is shown that compared with the fabric made of ring yarn, the weight and thickness of fabric made of compact yarn decreased, and the air permeability of fabric increased, but the difference is tiny. Meanwhile, the stiffness, smoothness of fabric made of compact yarn increased slightly, but the softness decreased slightly, leading to a little worse fabric hand-touching.Originality/value In the paper, one kind of pneumatic compact spinning, FLCS, was introduced into the silk spinning, and corresponding yarn and fabric qualities were studied and comparatively analyzed. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Purpose Fabric-object friction force is a fundamental factor in cloth simulation. A large number of parameters influence the frictional properties of fabrics such as fabric structure, yarn structure, and inherent properties of component fibers. The purpose of this paper is to propose a novel technique for modeling fabric-object friction force in knitted fabric simulation based on the mass spring model.Design/methodology/approach In this technique, unlike other studies, distribution of friction coefficient over the fabric surface is not uniform and depends on the fabric structure. The main reason for considering non-uniform distribution is that in various segments of fabric, contact percent of fabric-object is different.Findings The proposed technique and common methods based on friction coefficient uniform distribution are used to simulate the frictional behavior of knitted fabrics. The results show that simulation error values for proposed technique and common methods are 2.7 and 9.4 percent as compared with the experimental result, respectively.Originality/value In the existing methods of the friction force modeling, the friction coefficient of fabric is assumed uniform. But this assumption is not correct because fabric does not have an isotropic structure. Thus in this study, the friction coefficient distribution is considered based on fabric structure to achieve more of realistic simulations. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The influence of the drying position and time on the persistence of gunshot residues (GSR) on fabrics was investigated. Powder tattooing from a 40 cm shooting distance on targeted fabrics were slightly wetted using a spray and dried for 3 h or 48 h in horizontal or vertical positions. The GSR particles were visualised using IR fluorescence with a Video Spectral Comparator (VSC) and automatically counted with a software before the wetting and after the drying stages. While a significant rate of GSR particles (up to 22%) were lost, it was mainly due to the wetting procedure rather than the drying stage. No statistically significant difference was observed between the drying positions, indicating that both drying positions can be used in practice to dry slightly wet fabrics. The drying time had no influence on the loss, and the GSR distribution was not significantly influenced by either factor (i.e., time and position). • Gunshot residue loss was studied on fabrics shot at a 40 cm distance and sprayed with water. • The drying position for slightly wet clothes had little to no influence on the GSR loss. • No significant particle displacement was observed between the upper and lower half of the targets. • Drying will not significantly influence the estimation of the shooting distance. • No contamination was optically detected on blank fabrics during the drying process. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The Italian textile machinery manufacturer Savio can be defined a denim specialist, providing winding machines that can easily process special and challenging yarns, such as LycraA(r) and Dual Core Yarns. [...]

Highlights • A method for the sorting and quality assessment of Clothing and Household textiles. • The influence of other materials when disposed of alongside household waste. • Quality assessment considering product type, manufacturing method & fibre types. • Quality is affected by pre-existing conditions and the disposal method. • Unclear sorting definitions can over- or underestimate actual potential. Abstract Due to the high resource consumption and environmental impacts of textile production, better handling of discarded materials has a great environmental improvement potential. A uniform definition of textile waste and a stringent sorting procedure is a precondition for thorough investigations of discarded textiles. A review of waste sorting studies showed that only a few included textiles, and mainly considered content and not quality. A lack of definition and quality assessment causes a high risk of mistakes when assessing the potential of textile waste prevention. This study establishes a method for sorting and quality assessment of textiles in household waste, validated through dialogue with professional textile sorting centres. It also suggests a minimum waste sample size. The quality assessment is based on analysis of product types, manufacturing methods, fibre composition and a product condition assessment based on 17 criteria. The developed method was applied in a case study and compared with other sorting methods. It showed that 61% of the clothing in residual waste and 83% in small combustibles and that 78% of the household textiles in residual waste and 85% in small combustibles was reusable or recyclable. The comparison with existing methods showed that sorted quantities varied significantly when different sorting methods were applied even when the sorting was done on the same sample. This study suggests a new standard for defining and assessing categories and qualities of used textiles, adapted to real contemporary sorting technologies, and tested on waste samples. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Forensic palynology has been important in criminal investigation since the 1950s and often provides evidence that is vital in identifying suspects and securing convictions. However, for such evidence to be used appropriately, it is necessary to understand the factors affecting taphonomic variability (i.e. the variability in the fate of pollen grains before they are found during forensic examination). Here, we test the relative amount of pollen retained on clothing after a period of simulated light or heavy wear based on pollen and fabric characteristics. We also test the efficiency of forensic laboratory protocols for retrieving pollen from fabrics for analysis. There was no statistically significant difference in retention of fresh or dried pollen on any fabric type. There was a substantial difference in pollen retention according to wear intensity, with considerably more pollen being retained after light wear than after heavy wear. Pollen from insect-pollinated species was retained at higher concentrations than pollen from wind-pollinated species. This pattern was consistent regardless of wear intensity but pollination type explained more of the variability in pollen retention after light wear. Fabric type was significantly related to pollen retention, but interacted strongly with plant species such that patterns were both complex and highly species-specific. The efficiency of removing pollen with the standard washing protocol differed substantially according to plant species, fabric type, and the interaction between these factors. The average efficiency was 67.7% but this ranged from 21% to 93%, demonstrating that previous assumptions on the reliability of the technique providing a representative sample for forensic use should be reviewed. This paper highlights the importance of understanding pollen and fabric characteristics when creating a pollen profile in criminal investigations and to ensure that evidence used in testimony is accurate and robust. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Pressure garments are widely employed for management of postburn scarring. Although pressure magnitude has been linked to efficacy, maintenance of uniform pressure delivery is challenging. An understanding of garment fabric properties is needed to optimize pressure delivery for the duration of garment use. To address this issue, compression vests were manufactured using two commonly used fabrics, Powernet or Dri-Tek Tricot, to achieve 10% reduction in circumference for a child-sized mannequin. Applied pressure was tracked on five anatomical sites over 23 hours, before laundering or after one and five laundering cycles. Load relaxation and fatigue of fabrics were tested before laundering or after one and five laundering cycles, and structural analysis via scanning electron microscopy was performed. Prior to laundering, pressure vests fabricated using Powernet or Dri-Tek Tricot generated a maximum pressure on the mannequin of 20 and 23 mm Hg, respectively. With both fabrics, pressure decreased during daily wear. Following five laundering cycles, Dri-Tek Tricot vests delivered a maximum of 7 vs 15 mm Hg pressure for Powernet at the same site. In cyclic tensile and load relaxation tests, exerted force correlated with fabric weave orientation with greatest force measured parallel to a fabric's long axis. The results demonstrate that Powernet exhibited the greatest applied force with the least garment fatigue. Fabric orientation with respect to the primary direction of tension was a critical factor in pressure generation and maintenance. This study suggests that fabrication of garments using Powernet with its long axis parallel to patient's body part circumference may enhance the magnitude and maintenance of pressure delivery. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract: This paper explores how the materiality of dress mediates and shapes practices of care in the context of dementia. Earlier research called for an approach to conceptualising care that recognised the role played by everyday artefacts. We extend this to a consideration of dress and dressing the body in relation to people with dementia that involves the direct manipulation of material objects, as well as the materiality of bodies. The paper draws on an ESRC funded study Dementia and Dress, which examined experiences of dress for people with dementia, families and care‐workers using ethnographic and qualitative methods. Our analysis explores the process of dressing the body, the physicality of guiding and manipulating bodies into clothing, dealing with fabrics and bodies which ‘act back’ and are resistant to the process of dressing. We consider how the materiality of clothing can constrain or enable practices of care, exploring tensions between garments that support ease of dressing and those that sustain identity. Examining negotiations around dress also reveals tensions between competing ‘logics’ of care (Mol ). [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In recent years, many efforts have been made to promote a healthcare paradigm shift from the traditional reactive hospital-centered healthcare approach towards a proactive, patient-oriented, and self-managed approach that could improve service quality and help reduce costs while contributing to sustainability. Managing and caring for patients with chronic diseases accounts over 75% of healthcare costs in developed countries. One of the most resource demanding diseases is chronic kidney disease (CKD), which often leads to a gradual and irreparable loss of renal function, with up to 12% of the population showing signs of different stages of this disease. Peritoneal dialysis and home haemodialysis are life-saving home-based renal replacement treatments that, compared to conventional in-center hemodialysis, provide similar long-term patient survival, less restrictions of life-style, such as a more flexible diet, and better flexibility in terms of treatment options and locations. Bioimpedance has been largely used clinically for decades in nutrition for assessing body fluid distributions. Moreover, bioimpedance methods are used to assess the overhydratation state of CKD patients, allowing clinicians to estimate the amount of fluid that should be removed by ultrafiltration. In this work, the initial validation of a handheld bioimpedance system for the assessment of body fluid status that could be used to assist the patient in home-based CKD treatments is presented. The body fluid monitoring system comprises a custom-made handheld tetrapolar bioimpedance spectrometer and a textile-based electrode garment for total body fluid assessment. The system performance was evaluated against the same measurements acquired using a commercial bioimpedance spectrometer for medical use on several voluntary subjects. The analysis of the measurement results and the comparison of the fluid estimations indicated that both devices are equivalent from a measurement performance perspective, allowing for its use on ubiquitous e-healthcare dialysis solutions. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this paper we will speculate the possible relationships between "word," "text," "textile," and "clothing". Many of the terms we use to describe our interactions with words are derived from the common linguistic root and numerous other expressions associated with reading and writing are drawn from the rich vocabulary of cloth. Textiles are one of the most ubiquitous components of material culture and they are also integral to the material history of texts. The intersection between texts and textiles locates the relationship between language and dress, as together they structure the fashion scene over the century. We compare these texts and storytelling with the process of making clothes, they go from fibers that are spun and then create the fabric or the material out of which the clothes are made. Besides the similitude of the words "text" and "textile" that have four similar letters there is also the resemblance in the way they transmit a message. While texts are meant to transmit something to the reader, to enchant and to create emotions in so various ways, just in the same way clothes are also meant to transmit emotions and feelings to the wearer or to the people watching them. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Cloth is made of yarns that are stitched together forming semi-regular patterns. Due to the complexity of stitches and patterns, the macroscopic behavior of cloth is dictated by the contact interactions between yarns, not by the mechanical properties of yarns alone. The computation of cloth mechanics at the yarn level appears as a computationally complex and costly process at first sight, due to the need to resolve many fine-scale contact interactions. We propose instead an efficient representation of cloth at the yarn level that treats yarn-yarn contacts as persistent, but with the possibility to slide, thereby avoiding expensive contact handling altogether. We introduce a compact representation of yarn geometry and kinematics, capturing the essential deformation modes of yarn crossings, loops, stitches, and stacks, with a minimum cost. Based on this representation, we design force models that reproduce the characteristic macroscopic behavior of yarn-based fabrics. Our approach is suited for both woven and knitted fabrics. We demonstrate the efficiency of our method on simulations with millions of degrees of freedom (hundreds of thousands of yarn loops), almost one order of magnitude faster than previous techniques. We also compare the different macroscopic behavior under woven and knitted patterns with the same yarn density. [ABSTRACT FROM PUBLISHER]