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A culinary revolution in America and elsewhere has recently been pinpointed to around 1963. Three important New Zealand cookery books were published that year, and these are investigated to characterize the worldwide shift. Was "grandma's cooking" lost or "gourmet cooking" gained? Seemingly contradictory evaluations might be reconciled in the light of major changes in the food industry. Good domestic cooks embraced successive modes and also resisted them, primarily by continuing to grow and preserve some of their own food, and then by keeping up the cooking. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]