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The Huangmaohai Estuary (HE) is a funnel-shaped microtidal estuary in the west of the Pearl River Delta (PRD) in southern China. Since China's reform and opening up in 1978, extensive human activities have occurred and greatly changed the estuary's topography, and modified its hydrodynamics. In this study, we examined the morphological evolution by analyzing remote sensing data with ArcGIS tools and studied the responses of hydrodynamics to the changes in topography from 1977 to 2010 by using the Delft3d model. We took the changes in estuarine circulation during neap tides in dry seasons as an example. The results show that human reclamation caused a narrowing of the estuary, and channel dredging deepened the estuary. These human activities changed both the longitudinal and lateral estuarine circulations. The longitudinal circulation was observed to increase with the deepening and narrowing of the estuary. The lateral circulation experienced changes in both the magnitude and pattern. The momentum balance analysis shows that when the depth and width changed simultaneously, the longitudinal estuarine circulation was modulated by both the channel deepening and width reduction, in which the friction, pressure gradient force, and advection terms were altered. The analysis of the longitudinal vortex dynamics indicates that the changes in the vertical shear of the longitudinal flow, lateral salinity gradient, and vertical mixing were responsible for the change in the lateral circulation. The changes in water depth are the dominant factor affecting lateral circulation intensity. This study has implications for sediment transport and morphological evolution in estuaries heavily impacted by human interventions.

Coasts are among the most intensely used environments on the planet, but they also present dynamic and unique hazards including flooding and erosion. Sea level rise and changing wave climates will alter patterns of erosion and deposition, but some existing coastline evolution models are unable to simulate these effects due to their one-dimensional representation of the systems, or of sediment transport processes. In this paper, the development and application of the Coastline Evolution Model 2D (CEM2D) is presented, that incorporates these influences. The model has been developed from the established CEM model and is capable of simulating fundamental cause-effect relationships in coastal systems. The two-dimensional storage and transport of sediment in CEM2D, which is only done in one-dimension in CEM, means it is also capable of exploring the influence of a variable water level on sediment transport and the formation and evolution of morphological features and landforms at the meso-scale, from 10 to 100 years and over 10 to 100 kilometres. The model sits between one-dimensional and three-dimensional models, with the advantage of increased complexity and detail in model outputs compared to the former, but with more efficiency and less computational expense than the latter.

International audience; Wind waves breaking at an angle with the shoreline force the drifting of littoral sediments, which is known for contributing to the formation and growth of barrier spits. Intriguingly, increased rates of longshore wave power have also been associated with the erosion of some barrier spits on the updrift margin of tidal inlets. Therefore, a numerical experiment was designed and is presented here, which investigates the possible links between the longshore wave power and the shortening of these elongated coastal barriers. Based on a process-based model, the experiment provides new insights into the forces at play in the redistribution of sediments between a sandspit and its adjacent inlet, respectively the Cap Ferret and the Bay of Arcachon's tidal inlet, in SW France. More particularly, model scenarios were defined that show how combined waves and tide create gradients of residual sediment transport responsible for a sediment deficit at the spit – inlet boundary. The deficit was also found to deepen with increasing longshore wave energy, as if the transfer of sediment from the spit to inlet shoals was accelerated. This physically explains the previously observed retreat of the spit's distal end during periods dominated by the positive phase of North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO) in winter. Indeed, according to model results, higher and/or more oblique waves associated with the positive phase of the NAO are expected to increase the transfer and storage of the drifting sediments to and by the inlet shoals, and this at the expense of the spit. While these conclusions remain valid, we noticed that the sensitivity of model results to the bottom friction enhanced the importance of accurately representing the spatio-temporal distribution of bed roughness when investigating the morphodynamic interactions between real-world tidal inlets and their margins.

Field-to-river flow of runoff and sediment in a lowland arable catchment in the south of England is explored from both field and modelling perspectives. Routes observed to be taken by flow and sediment on five study areas include many interactions between flow and ‘landscape elements’ (LEs), including those (field boundaries, paths, roads) of anthropogenic origin. We were able to satisfactorily replicate observed flow routes using a simple steepest-descent-with-overtopping model with a 5 m DEM. This was unexpected, considering the narrowness of linear LEs such as paths and tracks. However LE attributes showed considerable sensitivity: changing just one attribute of a single FE-flow interaction notably altered the route taken by simulated flow, while changing LE attributes notably affected synthetic hydrographs for flow reaching the river, suggesting similar impacts upon transported sediment reaching the river. Thus while simple steepest-descent and overtopping permits satisfactory replication of observed flow routes, it is likely that more explicit representation of LE-flow interactions is necessary in order to adequately capture the dynamics of field-to-river runoff and sediment transport, as must be done by catchment-scale erosion models. This will enable such models to better represent runoff speed and volume, and the flux and size distribution of transported sediment, with the aim of overcoming some broad limitations of such models as noted in earlier model validation studies. Finally, we consider the representation of some LE-flow interactions in several catchment-scale models, and discuss the ways in which such representation might be improved.

International audience; The ultramafic massifs of New Caledonia are mainly composed of regolites with lateritic soils rich in metals such as Co, Fe, Mg and Ni. The nickeliferous ore is exploited by opencast mines. After rainfalls, erosion and particle runoff cause the mobilization of metals and metalloids in surface waters. The objective of this study is (i) to determine the geochemical background of metals and metalloids in surface waters draining a mining ultramafic massif, (ii) to identify the geochemical markers influenced by the mining of nickeliferous ore (iii) and to define discriminant values of the mining impact. Hydrochemical monitoring was carried out on five streams draining the Koniambo massif over a 15-years period. Twenty-four elements were analyzed for their total concentration and 18 for their dissolved concentration (

The volumes and dynamics of suspended sediments drained from a watershed are often unknown, especially in small creeks and tributaries where continuous discharge measurements are seldom available. The objective of this study was to assess in a qualitative and quantitative way the sediment dynamics of a small ungauged watershed in the Northern Apennines, Italy. We analysed and correlated the sediment volume concentration and grain-size distribution of the suspended sediments with the precipitation pattern. The study area is a small ungauged watershed (0.15 km2) that is dominated by intensive soil erosion processes and related landforms. The basin is oriented East-West with the south-facing slopes characterized by badland erosion processes. The north-facing slopes are cultivated and dominated by rill-interrill erosion phenomena. An morphometrical characterization of the basin was performed using a high-resolution DTM with a 1 × 1 m resolution. Subsequently, the physical characteristics of the topsoil were investigated based on grain size laboratory analysis. A detailed NDVI analysis of the vegetation was performed using Sentinel-2A images. Finally, we assessed the suspended sediments at the outlet of the basin using a laser diffraction technique. The Suspended Sediment Volume Concentration (SSC) and the Sauter Mean Diameter (SMD) of the eroded sediments, provide insights into the morphogenetic processes and the sediment transport dynamics of the basin. The measurements were conducted in autumn 2018 after an intense precipitation period and in spring 2019 after a dry phase. The results show a direct relationship between precipitation and SSC with a delay of about 2 h after the most intense precipitation events. Moreover, we reveal that the SMD values are inversely related to the precipitation due to turbidity effects. The SSC and SMD measurements allow for a detailed assessment of the dynamics between precipitation and suspended sediment load even though discharge volumes were not measured directly.

In this work, a new numerical model for cross-shore beach profile evolution, IH2VOF-SED, is developed. It consists in the bidirectional coupling of a 2D RANS hydrodynamic solver and a sediment transport module. The resulting model is extensively validated against three benchmark cases at different scales, attending to the hydrodynamics, bottom shear stress and bathymetry evolution. Comparisons between experimental and numerical results show a good agreement for both the flow variables and the seabed evolution in all the validation cases without making use of calibration parameters. Additionally, the qualitative analysis of the results is in accordance with previous experimental observations of sediment transport induced by breaking waves. The computational cost is greatly reduced to about 1/10 of other available RANS models. As a novel aspect regarding RANS models, the model is able to simulate the swash zone and changes in the position of the coastline. A good compromise between precision and computational cost is achieved, allowing for an in-depth analysis of the processes leading to the cross-shore profile evolution. The writers are grateful to Iván Cáceres (Polytechnic University of Catalunya) and Tom Baldock (University of Queensland) for providing experimental data for the validation cases. Also, to Moisés Álvarez Cuesta for performing the XBeach simulations. J. García-Maribona is indebted to the MECD (Ministerio de Educación, Cultura y Deporte, Spain) for the funding provided in the FPU (Formación del Profesorado Universitario) studentship (FPU17/04356). M. Maza is sincerely grateful to the Spanish Ministry of Science, Innovation and Universities for the funding provided in the grant Juan de la Cierva Incorporación (BOE de 27/10/2017). The work leading to this paper has been partially funded under the Retos Investigación 2018 (grant RTI2018-097014-B-I00) program of the Spanish Ministry of Science, Innovation and Universities.

Exploratory statistical partitioning methods (K-means Clustering analysis) were applied to ADCP monitoring datasets collected inside the Douro and Minho estuaries. This analysis is aimed to discriminate ADCP acoustic responses according to the variations of the suspended particles within the ensonified medium. Based on the interpretation of the results, this work establishes general sediment transport patterns at both estuaries’ exits under continuously varying river flows and tidal amplitudes recorded during a summer dry seasonal scenario (September 2005) and winter high river discharge (January/February 2007) conditions. Results confirm the already known present scarcity of (sandy) sediment export from the Douro and Minho estuaries into the inner shelf and the consequent sediment depletion of the adjacent littoral, with no effective contribution of the Douro and some evidence of sand export observed at the Minho outlet during the winter of 2007.

Connecting geologically mapped data to numerical modelling can help in understanding river landscape evolution. This study focuses on flood-induced breaching of the coversand ridge in the IJssel valley floodplain (Rhine delta, the Netherlands). The development of the breach would explain why this river branch came into existence in early medieval times. Prior to the breaching, the coversand ridge formed a barrier for the Rhine River to discharge towards the north. A palaeoflood model was coupled to a local sediment transport model to predict sediment transport rates in two competing coversand ridge breaches. The results show that the breach at the current IJssel River location was expected to expand earlier and faster in time for various upstream discharge waves and initial breach dimensions. This provides quantitative argumentation for the IJssel river avulsion case to have been triggered by the breaching of the coversand ridge during a large palaeoflood.

This study presents detailed suspended sediment budget for the four Siberian river deltas, representing contrasting conditions between Northern and Southern environments. Two of the studied rivers empty their water and sediments into the marine located in the permafrost zone in the Arctic region (Lena and Kolyma), and the other two (Selenga and Upper Angara) flow into Lake Baikal located in the steppe and forest-steppe zone of Southern Siberia. For the first time, these poorly monitored areas are analyzed in terms of the long-term and seasonal changes of spatial patterns of suspended sediment concentrations (SSC) over distributaries systems. Remote sensing reflectance is derived from continuous time series of Landsat images and calibrated with the onsite field measurements of SSC. Seasonal variability of suspended sediment changes over deltas was captured for the period from 1989 to 2020. We identify significant variability in the sedimentation processes between different deltas, which is explained by particularities of deltas networks and geomorphology and the existence of specific drivers—continuous permafrost impact in the North and abundant aquatic vegetation and wetland-dominated areas in the South. The study emphasizes that differences exist between Northern and Southern deltas regarding suspended sediments transport conditions. Mostly retention of suspended sediment is observed for Southern deltas due to sediment storage at submerged banks and marshlands located in the backwater zone of the delta during high discharges. In the Northern (arctic) deltas due to permafrost impacts (melting of the permafrost), the absence of sub-aquatic banks and river to ocean interactions of suspended sediment transport is mostly increased downwards, predominantly under higher discharges and along main distributary channels. These results shine light on the geochemical functions of the deltas and patterns of sequestering various metals bound to river sediments.

The 2018 Hokkaido Eastern Iburi earthquake and its landslides threaten the safety and stability of the Atsuma River basin. This study investigates land use and land cover (LULC) change by analyzing the 2015 and 2020 LULC maps of the basin, and its impact on runoff and sediment transport in the basin by using the soil and water assessment tool (SWAT) model to accurately simulate the runoff and sediment transport process. This study finds that the earthquake and landslide transformed nearly 10% of the forest into bare land in the basin. The simulation results showed that the runoff, which was simulated based on the 2020 LULC data, was slightly higher than that based on the 2015 LULC data, and the sediment transport after the earthquake is significantly higher than before. The rate of sediment transportation after the earthquake, adjusted according to the runoff, was about 3.42 times more than before. This shows that as the forest land decreased, the bare land increased. Conversely, the runoff increased slightly, whereas the sediment transport rate increased significantly in the Atsuma River basin after the earthquake. In future, active governance activities performed by humans can reduce the amount of sediment transport in the basin.

Salt marshes are dynamic biogeomorphic systems that respond to external physical factors, including tides, sediment transport, and waves and as well as internal processes such as autochthonous soild formation. Predicting the fate of marshes under future storms and sea-level rise requires a modeling framework that accounts for these processes in a coupled fashion. In this study, we implement two new marsh dynamic processes in the 3-D COAWST (coupled-ocean-atmosphere-wave sediment transport) model. The processes included are the erosion of the marsh edge scarp caused by lateral wave thrust from surface waves and vertical accretion driven by organic growth on the marsh platform. The edge erosion in the model occurs due to surface waves that reach grid cells at the marsh boundary; the associated lateral wave thrust lateral wave thrust leads to sediment release from these boundary cells to adjacent open water cells (non-marsh cells). Once a sufficient sediment is lost from a marsh-edge grid cell, the marsh cell is converted to a non-marsh cell, conceptually representing an intertidal mudflat. The sediment released from the marsh causes a change in bathymetry, thereby modifying the wave-energy reaching the marsh face. The vertical accretion occurs due to biomass production and is calculated by fitting a parabolic productivity curve between mean high water (MHW) and maximum vegetation depth for a given tidal range. MHW and tidal range are stored at user-defined intervals (on the order of days) as a hindcast and used to update the vertical growth formulation. Idealized domains are utilized to verify the lateral wave thrust formulation and show the dynamics of lateral wave erosion leading to horizontal retreat of marsh edge. The simulations of Reedy and Dinner Creeks within the Barnegat Bay estuary system show the model capability to account for both lateral wave erosion and vertical accretion due to organic growth in a realistic marsh complex. The simulations show that majority of accretion over the marsh complex occurs due to organic production while most estuarine sediment deposition occurs along the channel edges.

The Port of 2 × 110 MW Nagan Raya Coal Fired Steam Power Plant is one of the facilities constructed by the State Electricity Company in Aceh Province, Indonesia. During its operation, which began in 2013, the port has dealt with large amounts of sedimentation within the port and ship entrances. The goal of this study is to mitigate the sedimentation problem in the Nagan Raya port by evaluating the effect of maintenance dredging. Field measurements, and hydrodynamic and sediment transport modeling analysis, were conducted during this study. Evaluation of the wind data showed that the dominant wind direction is from south to west. Based on the analysis of the wave data, the dominant wave direction is from the south to the west. Therefore, the wave-induced currents in the surf zone were from south to north. Based on the analysis of longshore sediment transport, the supply of sediments to Nagan Raya port was estimated to be around 40,000–60,000 m3 per year. Results from the sediment model showed that sedimentation of up to 1 m was captured in areas of the inlet channel of Nagan Raya port. The use of a passing system for sand is one of the sedimentation management solutions proposed in this study. The dredged sediment material around the navigation channel was dumped in a dumping area in the middle of the sea at a depth of 11 m, with a distance of 1.5 km from the shoreline. To obtain a greater maximum result, the material disposal distance should be dumped further away, at least at a depth of 20 m or a distance of 20 miles from the coastline.

In the aftermath of pyroclastic-flow –dominated eruptions, lahars are the main geomorphic agent, but at the decadal scale, different sets of processes take place in the volcanic sediment cascade. At Unzen Volcano, in the Gokurakudani Gully we investigated the geomorphologic evolution and how the topographic change and the sediment change over time is controlling this transition. For this purpose, a combination of LiDAR data, aerial photography and photogrammetry, Ground Penetrating Radar and sediment grain-size analysis was done. The results show chocking zones and zones of enlargement of the gully, partly controlled by pre-eruption topography, but also by the overlapping patterns of the pyroclastic flow deposits of 1990 – 1995. The Ground Penetrating Radar revealed that on top of the typical lahar structure at the bottom of the gully, side-wall collapses were trapping finer sandy sediments formed in relatively low-energy deposition environment. This shows that secondary processes are taking place in the sediment transport process, on top of lahar activity, but also that these temporary dams may be a source of sudden sediment and water release, leading to lahars. Finally, the sediments from the gully walls are being preferentially oozed out of the pyroclastic-flow deposit, meaning that over longer period of time, there may be a lack of fines, increasing permeability and reducing internal pore-pressure needed for lahar triggering. It also poses the important question of how much of a past-event one can understand from outcrops in coarse heterometric material, as the deposit structure can remain, even after loosing part of its fine material.

Two-dimensional models of large spatial domain including Cua Lo and Cua Hoi estuaries in Nghe An province, Vietnam, were established, calibrated, and verified with the observed data of tidal level, wave height, wave period, wave direction, and suspended sediment concentration. The model was then applied to investigate the hydrodynamics, cohesive sediment transport, and the morphodynamics feedbacks between two estuaries. Results reveal opposite patterns of nearshore currents affected by monsoons, which flow from the north to the south during the northeast (NE) monsoon and from the south to the north during the southeast (SE) monsoon. The spectral wave model results indicate that wave climate is the main control of the sediment transport in the study area. In the NE monsoon, sediment from Cua Lo port transported to the south generates the sand bar in the northern bank of the Cua Hoi estuary, while sediment from Cua Hoi cannot be carried to the Cua Lo estuary due to the presence of Hon Ngu Island and Lan Chau headland. As a result, the longshore sediment transport from the Cua Hoi estuary to the Cua Lo estuary is reduced and interrupted. The growth and degradation of the sand bars at the Cua Hoi estuary have a great influence on the stability of the navigation channel to Ben Thuy port as well as flood drainage of Lam River.

The Fudu Estuary Sandbar Lagoon is one of the most representative sandbar-lagoon landforms in China, and has undergone drastic evolution in recent years, accompanied by increased coastal engineering activities. The evolution process and its control factors are studied through remote sensing interpretation and coastal sediment transport calculations. During 2010–2021, the sandbar quickly extended at an average speed of 49.5 m/a, but the annual growth has shown a decreasing trend in both area and width, and the shoreline has retreated by 25–45 m. The recent changes are the result of the combined action of natural conditions and human activities. Coastal sediment transport from west to east under the action of W-oriented waves is the natural cause of extension. An estuary dam and artificial island block the sediment transport path, and the material for the new growth of the sandbar comes from the erosion of its west side, which has directly caused the retreat and narrowing of the sandbar. The reduction in sediments from the river further aggravates the shrinkage. It is predicted that the sandbar will continue its eastward extension to connect with the coast in about 2–3 years. The erosion status is unlikely to change before the sediment supply is restored. Measures such as dismantling the estuary dam are recommended.

An association between salt pans or dry lake beds and distinctive crescentic lake-floor sand mounds (1–10 m high, tens to hundreds of metres wide) is commonplace in desert systems. In the Makgadikgadi Basin of northern Botswana, a debate about the formative processes of these landforms has persisted despite numerous morphometric, sedimentary and geochronological analyses, with mound landforms variously inferred to be aeolian dunes, subaqueous dunes, spring mounds or shoreline remnants. We propose a new formative mechanism which draws on the interaction between uneven moisture distribution on the pan surface and mobile aeolian sediments. We use a numerical model (ViSTA), which couples vegetation and aeolian sand transport dynamics, together with optically stimulated luminescence (OSL) dating of a mound in the Makgadikgadi Basin to investigate the feasibility of this ‘sticky mound hypothesis’. We find that under a range of modelled environmental conditions, uneven moisture distribution on the pan surface can lead to the development and stabilization of crescentic aeolian dunes, with these dunes growing upwind from the point of initial deposition, corresponding with the chronological data gained from OSL dating of a mound feature. On removal of this moisture, the modelled dunes erode and dissipate. These findings suggest that the formative mechanism of the mounds could be dependent on the interaction between differential drying of the pan surface and the competence of the aeolian sediment transport system across the pan floor.

In this study, the impacts of massive sediment input on channel geometry adjustment were analyzed across decades based on the downstream hydraulic geometry. Massive amounts of field data and evolution models showed that the alternation of degradation and aggradation in short-to-medium-term channel adjustment is common in evolving rivers. This phenomenon has always been challenging in research, most existing studies have focused on unidirectional adjustment in short-term channel adjustment. A few studies have considered the alternation of degradation and aggradation in short-to-medium-term channel adjustment, presuming that this phenomenon is caused by water and sediment changes. However, we found that the alternations also occurred under stable water and sediment transport in the North Fork Toutle River, southwestern Washington, USA. This adjustment across decades was analyzed by downstream hydraulic geometry in this study. It was concluded that the river consumes surplus energy to reach the optimal cross section through this short-to-medium-term adjustment under stable water and sediment transport. The objective of channel adjustment is minimal energy loss.

An important gap in the management of land erosion in mining-affected areas is the understanding of the entire sediment routing system and the links between sources and storage at the catchment scale. In this study, we examine sediment delivery and its seasonality in the nickel mining-affected Santa Cruz and Pamalabawan catchments, in the Philippines. We monitored discharge, suspended sediment concentrations and suspended sediment loads across 13 sub-catchments with contrasting degrees of mining influence from June 2018 to July 2019. First, we show the importance of the size of the area that has been physically disturbed within our sub-catchments, with as little as 10-22% of relative disturbance area being enough to generate fourfold to eightfold increase in the sediment yield relative to less disturbed and pristine areas. We found that sub-catchments with >10% disturbance exhibit the highest sediment yields (15.5 ± 44.7 t km-2 d-1) compared with sub-catchments with

Ancient shoreline–shelf depositional systems are influenced by an unusually wide array of geological, biological and hydrodynamic processes, with sediment transport and deposition primarily determined by the interaction of river, wave (including storm) and tidal processes, and changes in relative sea level. Understanding the impact of these processes on shoreline–shelf morphodynamics and stratigraphic preservation remains challenging. Numerical modelling integrated with traditional facies analysis provides an increasingly viable approach, with the potential to quantify, and thereby improve understanding of, the impact of these complex coastal sedimentary processes. An integrated approach is presented here that focuses on palaeotidal modelling to investigate the controls on ancient tides and their influence on sedimentary deposition and preservation – one of the three cornerstones of the ternary process classification scheme of shoreline-shelf systems. Numerical tidal modelling methodology is reviewed and illustrated in three palaeotidal model case studies of different scales and focus. The results are synthesised in the context of shoreline–shelf processes, including a critique and modification of the process-based classification scheme. The emphasis on tidal processes reflects their global importance throughout Earth’s history. Ancient palaeotidal models are able to highlight and quantify the following four controls on tidal processes: (1) the physiography (shape and depth) of oceans (1000s km scale) determines the degree of tidal resonance; (2) the physiography of ocean connections to partly enclosed water bodies (100–1000s km scale) determines the regional-scale flux of tidal energy (inflow versus outflow); (3) the physiography of continental shelves influences shelf tidal resonance potential; and (4) tides in relatively local-scale embayments (typically 1–10s km scale) are influenced by the balance of tidal amplification due to funnelling, shoaling and resonance effects versus frictional damping. In deep time, palaeogeographic and palaeobathymetric uncertainty can be accounted for in palaeotidal models by performing sensitivity analyses to different scenarios, across this range of spatial scales. These tidal process controls are incorporated into an updated predictive decision tree for determining shoreline–shelf process regime in terms of the relative interaction of wave, fluvial and tidal processes. The predictive decision tree considers the effects of basin physiography, shelf width and shoreline morphology on wave, fluvial and tidal processes separately. Uncertainty and ambiguity in applying the widely used three-tier process classification scheme are reduced by using the decision tree in conjunction with a proposed two-tier classification of process regime that is limited to primary and secondary processes. This two-tier classification scheme is illustrated in the three case studies, showing how integration of numerical modelling with facies analysis of the preserved stratigraphic record improves confidence in prediction of tide-influenced shoreline-shelf process regimes. Wider application of this approach will further improve process-based classifications and predictions of modern and ancient shoreline–shelf systems.

International audience; The morphological evolution of the Tagus estuary inlet in the last century is analyzed in order to characterize its dynamics, explain its behavior and anticipate its future evolution. First, the evolution is characterized through a literature review, complemented by new data analyses. This review synthesizes the present understanding of the inlet's dynamics and highlights some key questions that remain unanswered. To address these questions, a 2DH process-based morphodynamic model is implemented and validated, and then used to refine the previous understanding of the inlet's dynamics. A new conceptual model, which highlights a seasonal behaviour of the inlet's morphodynamics, is proposed. During winter time, the residual sediment transport is directed seaward along the navigation channel, towards the inlet mouth along the beaches adjacent to the inlet, and towards the estuary over the southern part of the ebb delta (Cachopo Sul). During the maritime summer, residual sediment fluxes are approximately half those occurring during winter. The relative importance of tidal flows increases, leading to sediment fluxes directed towards the southwest over the Cachopo Sul. The sediment deposits formed during the summer can be mobilized under specific wave conditions and transported to the northern stretch of the beaches to the south of the inlet. A positive feedback between the erosion of the Cachopo Sul-or, similarly, sea level rise-and the sediment fluxes over this bank suggests that the evolution of the bank observed during the last decades will continue in the foreseeable future.

It is well known that estuarine systems are significantly affected by hydrodynamic conditions such as river discharge, storm surges, waves and tidal conditions. In addition to this, human interferences through developmental projects have the capability of disrupting the natural morphological processes occurring at estuaries. In West Africa, the goal to improve standards of living through large-scale dam construction, offshore ports and coastal erosion countermeasures has triggered alarming changes in the morphodynamics of estuarine systems. The estuaries at the Volta River mouth (Ghana) and “Bouche du Roi” inlet (Benin), located along the Bight of Benin coast, West Africa, were selected as two case study sites to examine their long-term morphodynamics and sandspit evolution. In this study, we primarily analyzed estuarine morphology using remotely sensed images acquired from 1984 to 2020. We further estimated the longshore sediment transport for this region using results from the image analysis and the depth of active sediment motion. Our results reveal that the longshore sediment transport rates for this region are in the magnitude of 105–106 m3/year. Comparative analysis with other estuaries and sandy coasts suggests that the longshore sediment transport along this coast has one of the largest rates estimated in the world.

Rising sea levels and the increased frequency of extreme events put coastal communities at serious risk. In response, shoreline armoring for stabilization has been widespread. However, this solution does not take the ecological aspects of the coasts into account. The “living shoreline” technique includes coastal ecology by incorporating natural habitat features, such as saltmarshes, into shoreline stabilization. However, the impacts of living shorelines on adjacent benthic communities, such as submersed aquatic vegetation (SAV), are not yet clear. In particular, while both marshes and SAV trap the sediment necessary for their resilience to environmental change, the synergies between the communities are not well-understood. To help quantify the ecological and protective (shoreline stabilization) aspects of living shorelines, we presented modeling results using the Delft3D-SWAN system on sediment transport between the created saltmarshes of the living shorelines and adjacent SAV in a subestuary of Chesapeake Bay. We used a double numerical approach to primarily validate deposition measurements made in the field and to further quantify the sediment balance between the two vegetation communities using an idealized model. This model used the same numerical domain with different wave heights, periods, and basin slopes and includes the presence of rip-rap, which is often used together with marsh plantings in living shorelines, to look at the influences of artificial structures on the sediment exchange between the plant communities. The results of this study indicated lower shear stress, lower erosion rates, and higher deposition rates within the SAV bed compared with the scenario with the marsh only, which helped stabilize bottom sediments by making the sediment balance positive in case of moderate wave climate (deposition within the two vegetations higher than the sediment loss). The presence of rip-rap resulted in a positive sediment balance, especially in the case of extreme events, where sediment balance was magnified. Overall, this study concluded that SAV helps stabilize bed level and shoreline, and rip-rap works better with extreme conditions, demonstrating how the right combination of natural and built solutions can work well in terms of ecology and coastal protection.

International audience; Surface water storage in floodplains and wetlands is poorly known from regional to global scales, in spite of its importance in the hydrological and the carbon balances, as the wet areas are an important water compartment which delays water transfer, modifies the sediment transport through sedimentation and erosion processes, and are a source for greenhouse gases. Remote sensing is a powerful tool for monitoring temporal variations in both the extent, level, and volume, of water using the synergy between satellite images and radar altimetry. Estimating water levels over flooded area using radar altimetry observation is difficult. In this study, an unsupervised classification approach is applied on the radar altimetry backscattering coefficients to discriminate between flooded and non-flooded areas in the Cuvette Centrale of Congo. Good detection of water (open water, permanent and seasonal inundation) is above 0.9 using radar altimetry backscattering from ENVISAT and Jason-2. Based on these results, the time series of water levels were automatically produced. They exhibit temporal variations in good agreement with the hydrological regime of the Cuvette Centrale. Comparisons against a manually generated time series of water levels from the same missions at the same locations show a very good agreement between the two processes (i.e., RMSE _ 0.25 m in more than 80%/90% of the cases and R _ 0.95 in more than 95%/75% of the cases for ENVISAT and Jason-2, respectively). The use of the time series of water levels over rivers and wetlands improves the spatial pattern of the annual amplitude of water storage in the Cuvette Centrale. It also leads to a decrease by a factor of four for the surface water estimates in this area, compared with a case where only time series over rivers are considered.

Traditionally, interactions between tributary alluvial fans and the main river have been studied in the field and in the laboratory, giving rise to different conceptual models that explain their role in the sediment cascade. On the other hand, numerical modeling of these complex interactions is still limited because the broad debris flow transport regimes are associated with different sediment transport models. Even though sophisticated models capable of simulating many transport mechanisms simultaneously exist, they are restricted to research purposes due to their high computational cost. In this article, we propose a workflow to model the response of the Crucecita Alta alluvial fan in the Huasco Valley, located in the Atacama Desert, Chile, during an extreme storm event. Five different deposits were identified and associated with four debris flow surges for this alluvial fan. Using a commercial software application, our workflow concatenates these surges into one model. This study depicts the significance of the mechanical classification of debris flows to reproduce how an alluvial fan controls the tributary–river junction connectivity. Once our model is calibrated, we use our workflow to test if a channel is large enough to mitigate the impacts of these flows and the effects on the tributary–river junction connectivity.

Evacuation of basal sediment by subglacial drainage is an important mediator of rates of glacial erosion and glacier flow. Glacial erosion patterns can produce closed basins (i.e., overdeepenings) in glacier beds, thereby introducing adverse bed gradients that are hypothesised to reduce drainage system efficiency and thus favour basal sediment accumulation. To establish how the presence of a terminal overdeepening might mediate seasonal drainage system evolution and glacial sediment export, we measured suspended sediment transport from Findelengletscher, Switzerland during late August and early September 2016. Analyses of these data demonstrate poor hydraulic efficiency of drainage pathways in the terminus region but high sediment availability. Specifically, the rate of increase of sediment concentration with discharge was found to be significantly lower than that anticipated if channelised flow paths were present. Sediment availability to these flow paths was also higher than would be anticipated for discrete bedrock-floored subglacial channels. Our findings indicate that subglacial drainage in the terminal region of Findelengletscher is dominated by distributed flow where entrainment capacity increases only marginally with discharge, but flow has extensive access to an abundant sediment store. This high availability maintains sediment connectivity between the glacial and proglacial realm and means daily sediment yield is unusually high relative to yields exhibited by similar Alpine glaciers. We present a conceptual model illustrating the potential influence of ice-bed morphology on subglacial drainage evolution and sediment evacuation mechanics, patterns and yields, and recommend that bed morphology should be an explicit consideration when monitoring and evaluating glaciated basin sediment export rates., Earth Surface Processes and Landforms, 46 (11), ISSN:0197-9337, ISSN:1096-9837

Internal solitary waves (ISW) emerge in the ocean and seas in different forms and break on the shelf zones in a variety of ways. Their breaking on slopes can produce intensive mixing that produces such process as biological productivity and sediment transport. Mechanisms of ISW of depression interaction with the slopes related to breaking and changing polarity as they shoal. We assume that parameters that described the process of interaction of ISW in a two-layer fluid with the idealised shelf-slope are: the non-dimensional wave amplitude α (wave amplitude normalized on the upper layer thickness), the ratio of the height of the bottom layer on the shelf to the incident wave amplitude β and angle γ. Based on three-dimensional αβγ classification diagram with four types of interaction with the slopes it was discussed: (1) ISW propagates over slope without changing polarity and wave breaking; (2) ISW changes polarity over slope without breaking; (3) ISW breaks over slope without changing polarity; (4) ISW both breaks and change polarity over the slope. Relations between the parameters α,β,γ for each regime were obtained using the empirical condition for wave breaking and weakly nonlinear theory for the criterion of changing the polarity of the wave. In the present paper the α,β,γ diagram was validated for idealised real scale topography configurations. Results of the numerical experiments that were carried out in the present paper and results of field and laboratory experiments from other papers are in good agreement with proposed classification and estimations. Based on 85 numerical experiments ISWs energy loss during interaction with slope topography with 0.5° γ Hot spots zones of high levels of energy loss were shown for idealized configuration that mimics continental shelf at Lufeng Region SCS.

Erosion of tidal flats is to a large degree determined by the erosion threshold of their cohesive sediments, i.e., the critical bottom shear stress identifying the onset of erosion. Given that the erodibility of tidal flats can vary strongly over both space and time, rapid in situ measuring methods for quantifying the critical bottom shear stress are needed. As the largest changes in tidal flat elevation are generally observed during storms when shear stress is wave dominated, we developed a mobile Oscillatory-Channel Resuspension flume, OsCaR, as a rapid method to measure the critical wave-generated shear stress on sediment cores directly taken from the field. We assessed the performance of the OsCaR-flume by conducting erodibility measurements on a range of artificial sand – mud mixtures, and along a natural longshore estuarine sediment type and benthic assemblage gradient. Measured erodibility of the artificial sediments matched well with sediment transport theory, indicating that the OsCaR-flume is able to reproduce wave-generated shear stress accurately. Moreover, the patterns observed in the influence of total benthic metabolic rate divided over functional groups on sediment erodibility show that the OsCaR-flume is able to capture the main benthic processes, as they corresponded well to previous laboratory based studies.