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Several tests to assess skin sensitization hazard are in peer-review for pre-validation. These tests, as well as the animal tests they aim to replace, were developed (and validated) for the testing of pure substances. However, in the cosmetic field, active ingredients are often mixtures from natural sources. It is therefore important to understand which tests could be used to evaluate their safety. Here we describe a proof-of-concept study to test whether the KeratinoSens(™) assay is able to detect sensitizing constituents within botanical mixtures. Four extracts were spiked with different doses of the sensitizers citral, cinnamic aldehyde and isoeugenol. The tested extracts were negative in the test whereas they became positive in most cases when spiked with the sensitizers. Analysis of the results from the samples spiked with different doses allowed the determination of the minimal level of sensitizers being detectable. The contribution to sensitization potential of doses of 2% and above of the spiked sensitizers were reliably detected. There were limitations for an extract with high cytotoxicity, in which case detection of the artificially spiked sensitizers proved difficult. This study gives a proof of principle for testing of mixtures in the KeratinoSens(™) assay and indicates how sensitive the assay is to detect minor components with sensitizing potential.

Respiratory sensitization provides a case study for a new approach to chemical safety evaluation, as the prevalence of respiratory sensitization has increased considerably over the last decades, but animal and/or human experimental/predictive models are not currently available. Therefore, the goal of a working group was to design a road map to develop an ASAT approach for respiratory sensitisers. This approach should aim at (i) creating a database on respiratory functional biology and toxicology, (ii) applying data analyses to understand the multi-dimensional sensitization response, and how this predisposes to respiratory inflammation and irritation, and (iii) building a systems model out of these analyses, adding pharmacokinetic-pharmacodynamic modeling to predict respiratory responses to low levels of sensitisers. To this end, the best way forward would be to follow an integrated testing approach. Experimental research should be targeted to (i) QSAR-type approaches to relate potential as a respiratory sensitizer to its chemical structure, (ii) in vitro models and (iii) in vitro-in vivo extrapolation/validation. © 2011 Elsevier Ltd.

A key step in the skin sensitization process is the formation of a covalent adduct between the skin sensitizer and endogenous proteins and/or peptides in the skin. A published peptide depletion assay was used to relate the in vitro reactivity of fragrance molecules to LLNA data. Using the classical assay, 22 of 28 tested moderate to strong sensitizers were positive. The prediction of weak sensitizers proved to be more difficult with only 50% of weak sensitizers giving a positive response, but for some compounds this could also be due to false-positive results from the LLNA. LC-MS analysis yielded the expected mass of the peptide adducts in several cases, whereas in other cases putative oxidation reactions led to adducts of unexpected molecular weight. Several moderately sensitizing aldehydes were correctly predicted by the depletion assay, but no adducts were found and the depletion appears to be due to an oxidation of the parent peptide catalyzed by the test compound. Finally, alternative test peptides derived from a physiological reactive protein with enhanced sensitivity for weak Michael acceptors were found, further increasing the sensitivity of the assay.

The need for non-animal data to assess skin sensitisation properties of substances, especially cosmetics ingredients, has spawned the development of many in vitro methods. As it is widely believed that no single method can provide a solution, the Cosmetics Europe Skin Tolerance Task Force has defined a three-phase framework for the development of a non-animal testing strategy for skin sensitisation potency prediction. The results of the first phase – systematic evaluation of 16 test methods – are presented here. This evaluation involved generation of data on a common set of ten substances in all methods and systematic collation of information including the level of standardisation, existing test data, potential for throughput, transferability and accessibility in cooperation with the test method developers. A workshop was held with the test method developers to review the outcome of this evaluation and to discuss the results. The evaluation informed the prioritisation of test methods for the next phase of the non-animal testing strategy development framework. Ultimately, the testing strategy – combined with bioavailability and skin metabolism data and exposure consideration – is envisaged to allow establishment of a data integration approach for skin sensitisation safety assessment of cosmetic ingredients.