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Abstract: Background: To study capacity of skin to being imprinted by a marking head rapidly applied (10 seconds) onto the skin under a standardized pressure (15 kPa). Material and Methods: Referential photographs of skin markings, resulting from different times of application serve at grading the extent of skin imprints. The imprinting tool, equipped with 5 linear bulbs of different sizes but same thickness (1 mm), was applied onto the cheeks of 641 women of different ages (18‐80 years) of 3 different ethnic groups. In the cohort of 198 Caucasian women, the marking head was pressed onto 3 different sites (outer arm, cheek, and dorsal forearm) and the kinetics of skin recovery from cheek marking was recorded on a smaller and younger part of this Caucasian cohort, ie, 141 Caucasian women, aged 18‐59 years. Results: The recorded intensities of skin markings were found highly correlated with age in all 3 studied ethnic groups (Chinese, African‐American, and Caucasian). Caucasian women seem more sensitive to the marking and the kinetics of recovery from such imprint was found highly dependent from its intensity, ie, the higher the grades, the slower the recovery. In Caucasian women, intensities were different between skin sites, where arm showed higher resistance to marking. Possible impact of photo‐aging on the decreased skin resistance to such provoked deformation is likely of minor amplitude, as compared to the one induced by chronological aging. Conclusion: This method offers a new vision on skin aging, in its variable response to a standard deformation that appears mostly driven by chronological aging. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Background The wide diversity of feminine eyelashes in shape, length, and curvature makes it a complex domain that remains to be quantified in vivo, together with their changes brought by application of mascaras that are visually assessed by women themselves or make-up experts. Methods A dedicated software was developed to semi-automatically extract and quantify, from digital images (frontal and lateral pictures), the major parameters of feminine eyelashes of Mexican and Caucasian women and to record the changes brought by the applications of various mascaras and their brushes, being self or professionally applied. Results The diversity of feminine eyelashes appears as a major influencing factor in the application of mascaras and their related results. Eight marketed mascaras and their respective brushes were tested and their quantitative profiles, in terms of coverage, morphology, or curvature were assessed. Standard applications by trained aestheticians led to higher and more homogeneous deposits of mascara, as compared to those resulting from self-applications. Conclusion The developed software appears a precious tool for both quantifying the major characteristics of eyelashes and assessing the making-up results brought by mascaras and their associated brushes. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Background A new electro-mechanical device for measuring the lateral stiffness of the skin is now available. It basically allows to recording the forces that the skin opposes to a lateral displacement (1-2 mm) of a pinching type movement. Preliminary assays of this device to various skin sites and an artificial substrate aimed at defining its major characteristics (sensitivity, reproducibility, variations according to skin site). Methods The calibration of the device (Khelometer®) and assessment of its reproducibility were carried out through the use of elastometer substrates of various stiffness's. The device was then used, in vivo, at different skin sites (scalp, inner and outer forearms, cheeks) of 213 healthy Japanese women of various ages. The short-time effect of a hydrating regimen (7% glycerol) was recorded on the outer forearm. Results This new device offers an appreciable reproducibility in vitro and in vivo (coefficient of variation of 2-4% and 5-14%, respectively). Unlike other biophysical methods, the Khelometer® can be easily applied onto the human scalp that shows a higher stiffness than the two other skin sites, increasing with age and presence of alopecia. In all the three studied skin sites, the impact of age leads to significantly higher lateral skin stiffness ( LSS, expressed as N/mm) values. The latter were found significantly different between the two sides of the forearms where the outer (sun-exposed) side showed statistically slightly higher LSS, than the unexposed inner side. LSS values found on cheeks (≈0.5 N/mm) were about four times lower than those of the scalp (≈2 N/mm) and about half those of forearms (≈1 N/mm). The effect of a 7% glycerol based formula was recorded 20 min post application onto the forearm, leading to a slight drop in LSS (approx. 15%) as compared to a vehicle-applied skin site. Conclusion These preliminary studies clearly indicate that this new device, applicable to any skin site, offers appreciable assets such as sensitivity and reproducibility. Accordingly, it appears as a new approach in the non-invasive biophysical measurements of the skin surface, in both advanced and applied research investigations. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Background Facial skin pores ( FSP) are common and benign signs that generate frequent esthetic concerns or complaints. Despite their worldwide prevalence, related literature remains scarce. Hence, a new device has been developed and applied to validating studies, aiming at best describing FSP as they are self-perceived, i.e. their anatomic features, their possible alterations with age and their appearance after application of a make-up product. Methods Dermascore+® is an imaging device dedicated to a direct observation and acquisition of various characteristics of the skin surface. Images are captured under a high magnification and under different lighting configurations, to highlight the skin relief, based upon parallel polarized images. Dedicated software allows FSP to being detected and their morphological parameters to being extracted and computed. By measuring each detected FSP in a given region of interest, a statistically significant impact of both age and an applied cosmetic product upon their morphological features can be observed and quantified. Results Although the size and density of FSP are not affected by aging, their shape become s elongated. A few tested make up products show variable effects that closely correlate with visual assessments made by trained estheticians. Conclusion The shape of FSP present on cheeks shows age-related changes, toward a more elongated aspect, likely linked to a progressively altered (more isotropic) skin surface micro-relief. The new tool Dermascore+® allows foundations to being rapidly differentiated and screened according to their variable effects upon the visual appearance through instrumental, objective depiction of FSP. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Background/purpose: The aim of this study was to demonstrate the effects of selected plant extracts in a cosmetic cream on the dermal network components after a 3-month treatment using an in vivo multiphoton tomographic device. Methods: Twenty-four Caucasian women aged between 45 and 65 applied randomly a cosmetic emulsion B containing active ingredients (soy and jasmine) twice a day on one arm and its vehicle A (without active ingredients) on the other arm during 3 months. Measurements were performed on the internal side of the forearm before starting the treatment (T0), after 4 week (T4) and 12 weeks (T12) treatment. Measurements consisted in a multi-layers acquisitions using a multiphoton tomograph with subcellular resolution. Optical sections (about 6 μm thick) were recorded from 0 to about 200 μm using two different wavelengths: 760 and 820 nm. To compare the series of images and obtain an objective quantification of the signal of second harmonic generation (SHG) and autofluorescence, the method used consisted in taking the integrated brightness of an image (same rectangular area for all images) as a measure of the signal. Following this step a ratio between brightness of images from the area treated with cream A or B and brightness of untreated area was calculated and used as an assessment of treatment efficacy. The parameter used for statistical analysis (variance analysis) is the difference before and after 12 weeks of treatment by either cream A or B of the signal ratios calculated in the upper dermis (118–130 μm) and those from a deeper region of the upper dermis (165–178 μm). Results: Signals (autofluorescence+SHG) of extracellular matrix do not change significantly with time (weeks 0, 4 and 12) when cream A (vehicle with no active ingredient) is applied. Treatment with cream B results in an enhancement in the signal level of extracellular matrix at week 12. The comparison of signals, in both areas (118–130 μm and 160–178 μm), show an higher increase in the deeper region than in the more superficial one for product B while we do not notice any change with product A. Conclusion: The multiphoton tomograph provided excellent high-resolution images, which describe clearly the different skin layers, single cells and extracellular matrix components in all the 24 volunteers. Statistic analyses reveal a real effect for product B with selected plant extracts, known to increase collagen synthesis. Changes observed are characteristics of modifications in dermal collagen and elastin content. To our knowledge, it is the first time that it was possible to demonstrate in vivo the effect of a cosmetic product on the superficial dermal layer, in a non-invasive and non-destructive process, i.e. without cutting the skin. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]