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Despite theoretical developments in conceptualising alterity, what counts as 'alternative' in unconventional systems of food provision remains contested. This paper argues that the literature has reached an impasse. I argue that overly 'alternative' readings conceptualise Alternative Food Networks (AFNs) as a more embedded form of economic exchange, while neoliberal readings represent them as a case of marketisation. This paper systematically reviews AFNs literature and contends that a deeper engagement with Polanyian geographies enables a more nuanced approach to evaluating alternatives and their socio-political significance. Analytically and normatively, 'alternatives' need not be radically 'other', nor seen as having been co-opted by the neoliberal order. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]