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Chitosan (Ch), a natural polysaccharide, is known for its biocompatibility, biodegradability, and various beneficial properties, including antioxidant and antibacterial activities. The objective of this study is to investigate the functionalization of zinc oxide (ZnO) with chitosan to develop a novel ZnO@Ch adduct for use in cosmetic formulations, specifically as a sun protection agent. The functionalization was achieved through ionotropic gelation, which enhanced the stability and reduced the photocatalytic activity of ZnO, thereby improving its safety profile for skin applications. FTIR spectroscopy confirmed the successful functionalization, while TGA and DSC characterized the thermal properties and stability. The Zeta potential and particle size analyses demonstrated improved stability of ZnO@Ch across various pH levels compared to uncoated ZnO. The structure of the obtained adduct was also confirmed by SEM analysis. The ZnO@Ch adduct exhibited enhanced stability at neutral and slightly alkaline pH values, reduced photocatalytic activity compared to pure ZnO, and had lower cytotoxicity in 3T3 cells compared to pure ZnO, particularly at higher concentrations. The ZnO@Ch adduct provided a higher Sun Protection Factor (SPF) and UVA Protection Factor (UVA-PF) than pure ZnO, indicating enhanced UV protection. The adduct’s ability to provide higher SPF at lower ZnO concentrations offers economic and environmental benefits, aligning with sustainable product design principles. Future studies will focus on optimizing the formulation and testing the efficacy and safety at higher concentrations to fully realize its potential as a natural, eco-friendly sunscreen ingredient.

A comparative study on essential oils extracted from Mentha suaveolens Ehrh. from Italy is reported. Two extraction procedures were investigated: hydrodistillation and steam distillation, carried out as a continuous and fractionated procedure. Fresh and dried plant material from two harvests was used. The hydrodistillation method yielded a higher amount of essential oil. The dried plant was significantly richer in essential oil per kg of starting plant material. Gas chromatography-mass spectrometry analysis of 112 samples showed that the essential oils belong to the piperitenone oxide-rich chemotype. In addition, piperitenone, p-cymen-8-ol, and limonene were among the most abundant compounds in the different samples. A higher amount of piperitenone oxide was obtained by hydrodistillation, while steam distillation gave a higher percentage of piperitenone and limonene. The essential oils were characterized for their anti-Candida albicans activity; higher potency was observed for the samples rich in piperitenone oxide, with MIC values ranging from 0.39 to 0.78 mg·mL−1 (0.039% and 0.078% p/v). The results of this work provide a deep insight into the methodology of essential oil extraction and the associated chemical variability of M. suaveolens Ehrh. Some of the essential oils are potent against C. albicans and could be considered for potential use in therapy.

Scientific investigation on essential oils composition and the related biological profile are continuously growing. Nevertheless, only a few studies have been performed on the relationships between chemical composition and biological data. Herein, the investigation of 61 assayed essential oils is reported focusing on their inhibition activity against Microsporum spp. including development of machine learning models with the aim of highlining the possible chemical components mainly related to the inhibitory potency. The application of machine learning and deep learning techniques for predictive and descriptive purposes have been applied successfully to many fields. Quantitative composition–activity relationships machine learning-based models were developed for the 61 essential oils tested as Microsporum spp. growth modulators. The models were built with in-house python scripts implementing data augmentation with the purpose of having a smoother flow between essential oils’ chemical compositions and biological data. High statistical coefficient values (Accuracy, Matthews correlation coefficient and F1 score) were obtained and model inspection permitted to detect possible specific roles related to some components of essential oils’ constituents. Robust machine learning models are far more useful tools to reveal data augmentation in comparison with raw data derived models. To the best of the authors knowledge this is the first report using data augmentation to highlight the role of complex mixture components, in particular a first application of these data will be for the development of ingredients in the dermo-cosmetic field investigating microbial species considering the urge for the use of natural preserving and acting antimicrobial agents.

Cortisone is a steroid widely used as an anti-inflammatory drug able to suppress the immune system, thus reducing inflammation and attendant pain and swelling at the site of an injury. Due to its numerous side effects, especially in prolonged and high-dose therapies, the development of the pharmaceutical industry is currently aimed at finding new compounds with similar activities but with minor or no side effects. Biotransformations are an important methodology towards more sustainable industrial processes, according to the principles of “green chemistry”. In this work, the biotransformation of cortisone with Rhodococcus rhodnii DSM 43960 to give two new steroids, i.e., 1,9β,17,21-tetrahydoxy-4-methyl-19-nor-9β-pregna-1,3,5(10)-trien-11,20-dione and 1,9β,17,20β,21-pentahydoxy-4-methyl-19-nor-9β-pregna-1,3,5(10)-trien-11-one, is reported. These new steroids have been fully characterized.

In the search for scaffolds for multifunctional compounds we investigated the structure activity relationship of a class of benzimidazole derivatives bearing 5-membered ring. The newly synthesized and the already known compounds were divided into three classes that present different substituent at 5 position of the benzimidazole ring (-H, -COOH or –SO3H) and different heterocycle at position 2 (thiophene, furan or pyrrole). All the derivatives were synthesized and tested to determine their photoprotective profile against UV rays, in vitro antioxidant capacity against different radicals (DPPH and FRAP test), antifungal inhibitory activity (dermatophytes and Candida albicans), antiviral and antiproliferative activity. A Structure-Activity Relationship study indicated compound 10, bearing a pyrrole heterocycle on the benzimidazole ring, as the best multifunctional derivative of the series and as potential candidate for the development of drugs especially in case of melanoma.

Multi-target strategies are directed toward targets that are unrelated (or distantly related) and can create opportunities to address different pathologies. The antidermatophytic activities of nine natural skin lighteners: α-bisabolol, kojic acid, β-arbutin, azelaic acid, hydroquinone, nicotinamide, glycine, glutathione and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, were evaluated, in comparison with the known antifungal drug fluconazole, on nine dermatophytes responsible for the most common dermatomycoses: Microsporum gypseum, Microsporum canis, Trichophyton violaceum, Nannizzia cajetani, Trichophyton mentagrophytes, Epidermophyton floccosum, Arthroderma gypseum, Trichophyton rubrum and Trichophyton tonsurans. α-Bisabolol showed the best antifungal activity against all fungi and in particular; against M. gypseum. Further investigations were conducted on this fungus to evaluate the inhibition of spore germination and morphological changes induced by α-bisabolol by TEM.

The phenolic compound phloridzin (phloretin 2′-O-glucoside, variously named phlorizin, phlorrhizin, phlorhizin or phlorizoside) is a prominent member of the chemical class of dihydrochalcones, which are phenylpropanoids. Phloridzin is specifically found in apple and apple juice and known for its biological properties. In particular we were attracted by potential dermo-cosmetic applications. Here we report the synthesis, stability studies and antimicrobial activity of compound F2, a new semi-synthetic derivative of phloridzin. The new derivative was also included in finished formulations to evaluate its stability with a view to a potential topical use. Stability studies were performed by HPLC; PCL assay and ORAC tests were used to determine the antioxidant activity. F2 presented an antioxidant activity very close to that of the parent phloridzin, but, unlike the latter, was more stable in formulations. To further explore potential health claims, antifungal activity of phloridzin and its derivative F2 were determined; the results, however, were rather low; the highest value was 31,6% of inhibition reached by F2 on Microsporum canis at the highest dose.

We here report the results of our investigations carried out on verbascoside, a phenylpropanoid glycoside known for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and photoprotective actions. Verbascoside was obtained from Buddleia davidii meristematic cells, obtained in turn using a sustainable biotechnology platform which employs an in vitro plant cell culture technology. Verbascoside was first investigated to assess the behaviour of the active ingredient in solution or in finished preparations, in view of its potential topical use, especially in skin protection. Stability studies were performed by HPLC, and a PCL assay was adopted to determine the radical scavenging activity toward superoxide anion. The high hydrophilic character of verbascoside, suggested in a somewhat limited range of possible applications, leading us to explore its derivatization to obtain the semi-synthetic derivative VPP, an acyl derivative of verbascoside, with an improved range of applications due to its lower hydrophilic profile. Alone, VPP revealed increased antioxidant activity, both as an active ingredient and in dermocosmetic preparations. Stability studies showed a greater stability of VPP in lipophilic vehicles, whereas the parent verbascoside proved more stable in an O/W emulsions. Verbascoside was also stable in suppositories, an interesting pharmaceutical form for possible applications in treatment of inflammation of the intestinal mucosa.

Moringa oleifera has gained increasing popularity as a food supplement but not in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic area. The aim of this study was the preparation, characterization, and evaluation of extracts from the leaves of Moringa oleifera as a herbal sun care phytocomplex. Three different extracts of Moringa oleifera leaves, from Senegal, have been prepared and chemically characterized in the phenolic fraction by HPLC-DAD and Folin–Ciocalteu test. To explore photoprotective properties, an extensive evaluation of UV filtering, antioxidant (DPPH, FRAP, ORAC, PCL), and anti-hyperproliferative (human melanoma Colo38 cells) capacities have been conducted. Furthermore, a formulation study regarding cosmetic prototypes has been carried out in order to determine the Sun Protection Factor (SPF), which was assessed in vitro. The extracts were demonstrated to confer significant values of protection, with an SPF 2, that corresponds to a 50% protection against UV-B rays, at concentrations as low as 2% to 4%. Finally, the evaluation on potential irritation of the finished formulations was conducted by Patch Test and no significant irritant potential was observed. These evidence enlarged the already significant number of activities and potential uses of this plant, which is well-known for its importance in the medicinal and nutritional fields.

As a novel example of improved entry of poorly delivered drugs into the brain by means of nutrient conjugates, L-carnitine was conjugated to nipecotic acid and the capacity to antagonize PTZ-induced convulsions of this novel entity was evaluated.

This review describes specific strategies for targeting to the central nervoussystem (CNS). Systemically administered drugs can reach the brain by crossing one of twophysiological barriers resistant to free diffusion of most molecules from blood to CNS: theendothelial blood-brain barrier or the epithelial blood-cerebrospinal fluid barrier. Thesetissues constitute both transport and enzymatic barriers. The most common strategy fordesigning effective prodrugs relies on the increase of parent drug lipophilicity. However,increasing lipophilicity without a concomitant increase in rate and selectivity of prodrugbioconversion in the brain will result in failure. In these regards, consideration of theenzymes present in brain tissue and in the barriers is essential for a successful approach.Nasal administration of lipophilic prodrugs can be a promising alternative non-invasiveroute to improve brain targeting of the parent drugs due to fast absorption and rapid onsetof drug action. The carrier-mediated absorption of drugs and prodrugs across epithelial andendothelial barriers is emerging as another novel trend in biotherapeutics. Several specifictransporters have been identified in boundary tissues between blood and CNScompartments. Some of them are involved in the active supply of nutrients and have been used to explore prodrug approaches with improved brain delivery. The feasibility of CNSuptake of appropriately designed prodrugs via these transporters is described in detail.

Dry eye syndrome is a common disease which can damage the corneal epithelium. It is treated with eye drops to stimulate tear production and hydrate the corneal surface. The most prescribed artificial tear remedies contain hyaluronic acid (HA), which enhances epithelial wound healing, improving tissue health. To the best of our knowledge, only a few recent studies have investigated cross-linked HA (HA-CL) in eye drops for human applications. This work consists in an in vitro evaluation of the re-epithelialization ability of two different preparations containing a recently synthetized HA cross-linked with urea: 0.02% (w/v) HA-CL (solution 1, S1), and 0.4% (w/v) HA-CL (solution 2, S2). The study was conducted on both 2D human corneal cells (HCEpiC) and 3D reconstructed tissues of human corneal epithelium (HCE). Viability by 3(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2)2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide (MTT) test, pro-inflammatory cytokine release (interleukin-8, IL-8) by ELISA, and morphology by hematoxylin and eosin (HE) staining were evaluated. In addition, to understand the molecular basis of the re-epithelialization properties, cyclin D1 levels were assessed by western blot. The results showed no cellular toxicity, a slight decrease in IL-8 release, and restoration of epithelium integrity when the wounded 3D model was treated with S1 and S2. In parallel, cyclin D1 levels increased in cells treated with both S1 and S2.

In this work, we evaluated the antidermatophytic activities of three resorcinol derivatives that have a history of use in dermo-cosmetic applications to discover molecules with multiple dermatological activities (i.e., multi-target drugs), thereby reducing the cost and time necessary for new drug development. The antidermatophytic activities of the three skin lighteners were evaluated relative to the known antifungal drug fluconazole on nine dermatophytes responsible for the most common dermatomycoses: Microsporum gypseum, Microsporum canis, Trichophyton violaceum, Arthroderma cajetani, Trichophyton mentagrophytes, Epidermophyton floccosum, Nannizzia gypsea, Trichophyton rubrum and Trichophyton tonsurans. Among the three tested resorcinols, only two showed promising properties, with the ability to inhibit the growth of all tested dermatophytes; additionally, the IC50 values of these two resorcinols against the nine dermatophytes confirmed their good antifungal activity, particularly for phenylethyl resorcinol against M. gypseum. Ultrastructural alterations exhibited by the fungus were observed using scanning electron microscopy and transmission electron microscopy and reflected a dose-dependent response to treatment with the activation of defence and self-preservation strategies.