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Brown seaweeds are attracting attention due to their richness in bioactive compounds, in particular, their phlorotannins. We present here a case study of two Fucales, Ascophyllum nodosum and Halidrys siliquosa, sustainably collected, to produce active polyphenols for the cosmetics sector. Phenolic contents of crude extracts, obtained by Accelerated Solvent Extraction (ASE), were more elevated in H. siliquosa at 100.05 mg/g dry weight (DW) than in A. nodosum (29.51 mg/g DW), considering 3 cycles with cell inversion. The temperature of extraction for a high phenolic content and high associated antioxidant activities close to positive controls was 150 °C for both algae and the use of only one cycle was enough. A semi-purification process using Solid-phase Extraction (SPE) was carried out on both ASE crude extracts (one per species). The majority of phlorotannins were found in the ethanolic SPE fraction for A. nodosum and the hydroethanolic one for H. siliquosa. The SPE process allowed us to obtain more concentrated fractions of active phenolic compounds (×1.8 and 2 in A. nodosum and H. siliquosa, respectively). Results are discussed in regard to the exploitation of seaweeds in Brittany and to the research of sustainable processes to produce active natural ingredients for cosmetics.

Marine resources exist in vast numbers and show enormous diversity. As a result, there are likely many possible applications for marine molecules of interest in the cosmetic industry, whether as excipients or additives, but especially as active substances. It is possible to obtain extracts from active substances; for example, quite a few algae species can be used in moisturizing or anti-ageing products. In the field of topical photoprotection, mycosporine-like amino acids and gadusol are important lines of enquiry that should not be overlooked. In the field of additives, the demonstration that certain seaweed (algae) extracts have antimicrobial properties suggests that they could provide alternatives to currently authorized preservatives. These promising leads must be explored, but it should be kept in mind that it is a long process to bring ingredients to market that are both effective and safe to use.

In diatoms, the main photosynthetic pigments are chlorophylls a and c, fucoxanthin, diadinoxanthin and diatoxanthin. The marine pennate diatom Haslea ostrearia has long been known for producing, in addition to these generic pigments, a water-soluble blue pigment, marennine. This pigment, responsible for the greening of oysters in western France, presents different biological activities: allelopathic, antioxidant, antibacterial, antiviral, and growth-inhibiting. A method to extract and purify marennine has been developed, but its chemical structure could hitherto not be resolved. For decades, H. ostrearia was the only organism known to produce marennine, and can be found worldwide. Our knowledge about H. ostrearia-like diatom biodiversity has recently been extended with the discovery of several new species of blue diatoms, the recently described H. karadagensis, H. silbo sp. inedit. and H. provincialis sp. inedit. These blue diatoms produce different marennine-like pigments, which belong to the same chemical family and present similar biological activities. Aside from being a potential source of natural blue pigments, H. ostrearia-like diatoms thus present a commercial potential for aquaculture, cosmetics, food and health industries.