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In this study, we constructed a rapid refresh wave forecast model using sea winds from the Korea Local Analysis and Prediction System as input forcing data. The model evaluated the changes in forecast performance considering the influence of input wind–wave interaction, which is an important factor that determines forecast performance. The forecast performance was evaluated by comparing the forecast results of the wave model with the significant wave height, wave period, and wave direction provided by moored buoy observations. During the typhoon season, the model tended to underestimate the conditions, and the root mean square error (RMSE) was reduced by increasing the wind and wave interaction parameter. The best value of the interaction parameter that minimizes the RMSE was determined based on the results of the numerical experiments performed during the typhoon season. The forecast error in the typhoon season was higher than that observed in the analysis results of the non-typhoon season. This can be attributed to the variations of the wave energy caused by the relatively strong typhoon wind field considered in the wave model.

An integrated wave-tidal current power turbine is affected by both wave and tidal current forces, and its energy efficiency is closely related to the velocity and direction of the two forces. To improve the probability of the horizontal axis turbine reaching maximum energy efficiency under real-time changing sea conditions, we performed the following investigations in this study. Based on the actual application scenario of Lianyungang port, a time series prediction model of tidal current (velocity and flow direction) and wave (mean wave direction, mean wave period, and significant wave height) data for the past year was established. The changes in waves and tidal currents within 24 h after the cutoff point of the existing data were predicted. The integrated wave-tidal current mechanism was studied, and the superposition of wave energy and tidal current energy was transformed into the equivalent velocity vector of wave-tidal current integration. The conversion coefficient between waves and equivalent flows was determined by a numerical wave flume simulation. According to the historical wave and tidal current data, the equivalent velocity range of the integrated action of waves and tidal currents in Lianyungang was determined. The influence of different blade motions on the energy harvesting efficiency of the turbine under the corresponding flow conditions was studied using the Computational Fluid Dynamics (CFD) method to determine the blade motion law of the turbine. The blade motion law of the prototype was verified in a sea trial experiment. The experimental results were basically consistent with the simulation results for the blade motion law designed according to the wave and tidal current prediction law. This design scheme can provide a reference for engineering design for the development and utilization of new marine energy.

The long-term trends of sea surface wind are of great importance to our understanding of the effects of climate change on the marine environment. In the northern South China Sea (SCS), the long-term changes in coastal sea surface wind are not well-understood. Based on the latest reanalysis (ERA5) data from 1979 to 2019, our analysis showed a decreasing trend in the annual mean wind speed in the coastal area and an increasing trend in the open sea. There was a significant weakening trend in the easterly wind component in the coastal and continental shelf areas, whereas there was an increasing trend in the northerly wind component in the open sea. The Mann–Kendall mutation analysis suggested that there were significant changes in the wind speed and frequency of strong wind. Significant correlations were found between the variation of the wind field and El Niño–Southern Oscillation by wave coherence analysis. The strengthening of the wind stress curl was an important factor for the enhancement of coastal upwelling along the coast of the northern SCS. The wind field plays an important role in modulating the climatic change of significant wave height.

Wave forecasts, though integral to ocean engineering activities, are often conducted using computationally expensive and time-consuming numerical models with accuracies that are blunted by numerical-model-inherent limitations. Additionally, artificial neural networks, though significantly computationally cheaper, faster, and effective, also experience difficulties with nonlinearities in the wave generation and evolution processes. To solve both problems, this study employs and couples empirical mode decomposition (EMD) and a long short-term memory (LSTM) network in a joint model for significant wave height forecasting, a method widely used in wind speed forecasting, but not yet for wave heights. Following a comparative analysis, the results demonstrate that EMD-LSTM significantly outperforms LSTM at every forecast horizon (3, 6, 12, 24, 48, and 72 h), considerably improving forecasting accuracy, especially for forecasts exceeding 24 h. Additionally, EMD-LSTM responds faster than LSTM to large waves. An error analysis comparing LSTM and EMD-LSTM demonstrates that LSTM errors are more systematic. This study also identifies that LSTM is not able to adequately predict high-frequency significant wave height intrinsic mode functions, which leaves room for further improvements.

Super Typhoons Maria (2018) and Lekima (2019) were adopted for this case study, although they only passed the northern offshore waters of Taiwan without making landfall. A direct modification technique was employed to create the atmospheric conditions for a wave-circulation model to hindcast large typhoon-driven waves. The radius of the modified scale (Rtrs) for a hybrid typhoon wind plays an important role in the significant wave height (SWH) simulations during the passage of typhoons. The maximum increment in peak SWH reached 3.0 m and 5.0 m in the deep ocean for Super Typhoons Maria (2018) and Lekima (2019), respectively if the Rtrs was increased from 4 × Rmax (radius of the maximum wind) to 7 × Rmax. The SWHs induced by the typhoon winds in the surf zone were more sensitive to different wave-breaking formulations used in the wave-circulation model. The maximum difference in peak SWH reached 2.5 m and 1.2 m for Super Typhoons Maria (2018) and Lekima (2019), respectively, when the wave-breaking formulations of BJ78 (proposed by Battjes and Janssen in 1978) and CT93 (proposed by Church and Thornton in 1993) were introduced to the wave-circulation model. The SWH simulations in the surf zone were insensitive to the wave-breaking criterion (γ) during the passage of typhoons. In shallow nearshore waters, the utilization of a constant γ for the wave-circulation model always produces peak SWHs that are smaller than those using γ based on local steepness or peak steepness.

In this work, we investigate sea surface temperature (SST) cooling under binary typhoon conditions. We particularly focus on parallel- and cross-type typhoon paths during four typhoon events: Tembin and Bolaven in 2012, and Typhoon Chan-hom and Linfa in 2015. Wave-induced effects were simulated using a third-generation numeric model, WAVEWATCH III (WW3), and were subsequently included in SST simulations using the Stony Brook Parallel Ocean Model (sbPOM). Four wave-induced effects were analyzed: breaking waves, nonbreaking waves, radiation stress, and Stokes drift. Comparison of WW3-simulated significant wave height (SWH) data with measurements from the Jason-2 altimeter showed that the root mean square error (RMSE) was less than 0.6 m with a correlation (COR) of 0.9. When the four typhoon-wave-induced effects were included in sbPOM simulations, the simulated SSTs had an RMSE of 1 °C with a COR of 0.99 as compared to the Argos data. This was better than the RMSE and COR recovered between the measured and simulated SSTs, which were 1.4 °C and 0.96, respectively, when the four terms were not included. In particular, our results show that the effects of Stokes drift, as well as of nonbreaking waves, were an important factor in SST reduction during binary typhoons. The horizontal profile of the sbPOM-simulated SST for parallel-type typhoon paths (Typhoons Tembin and Bolaven) suggested that the observed finger pattern of SST cooling (up to 2 °C) was probably caused by drag from typhoon Tembin. SST was reduced by up to 4 °C for cross-type typhoon paths (Typhoons Chan-hom and Linfa). In general, mixing significantly increased when the four wave-induced effects were included. The vertical profile of SST indicated that disturbance depth increased (up to 100 m) for cross-type typhoon paths because the mixing intensity was greater for cross-type typhoons than for parallel-type typhoons.

A wave forecast numerical simulation was performed for Typhoon Lingling around the Korean Peninsula and in the East Asia region using sea winds from 24 members produced by the Ensemble Prediction System for Global (EPSG) of Korea Meteorological Administration (KMA). Significant wave height was observed by the ocean data buoys used to verify data of the ensemble wave model, and the results of the ensemble members were analyzed through probability verification. The forecast performance for the significant wave height improved by approximately 18% in the root mean square error in the three-day lead time compared to that of the deterministic model, and the difference in performance was particularly distinct towards mid-to-late lead times. The ensemble spread was relatively appropriate, even in the longer lead time, and each ensemble model runs were all stable. As a result of the probability verification, information on the uncertainty that could not be provided in the deterministic model could be obtained. It was found that all the Relative Operating Characteristic (ROC) curves were 0.9 or above, demonstrating good predictive performance, and the ensemble wave model is expected to be useful in identifying and determining hazardous weather conditions.

Mean wave period (MWP) is one of the key parameters affecting the design of marine facilities. Currently, there are two main methods, numerical and data-driven methods, for forecasting wave parameters, of which the latter are widely used. However, few studies have focused on MWP forecasting, and even fewer have investigated it with spatial and temporal information. In this study, correlations between ocean dynamic parameters are explored to obtain appropriate input features, significant wave height (SWH) and MWP. Subsequently, a data-driven approach, the convolution gated recurrent unit (Conv-GRU) model with spatiotemporal characteristics, is utilized to field forecast MWP with 1, 3, 6, 12, and 24-h lead times in the South China Sea. Six points at different locations and six consecutive moments at every 12-h intervals are selected to study the forecasting ability of the proposed model. The Conv-GRU model has a better performance than the single gated recurrent unit (GRU) model in terms of root mean square error (RMSE), the scattering index (SI), Bias, and the Pearson’s correlation coefficient (R). With the lead time increasing, the forecast effect shows a decreasing trend, specifically, the experiment displays a relatively smooth forecast curve and presents a great advantage in the short-term forecast of the MWP field in the Conv-GRU model, where the RMSE is 0.121 m for 1-h lead time.

The WaveCat is a moored Wave Energy Converter design which uses wave overtopping discharge into a variable v-shaped hull, to generate electricity through low head turbines. Physical model tests of WaveCat WEC were carried out to determine the device reflection, transmission, absorption and capture coefficients based on selected wave conditions. The model scale was 1:30, with hulls of 3 m in length, 0.4 m in height and a freeboard of 0.2 m. Wave gauges monitored the surface elevation at discrete points around the experimental area, and level sensors and flowmeters recorded the amount of water captured and released by the model. Random waves of significant wave height between 0.03 m and 0.12 m and peak wave periods of 0.91 s to 2.37 s at model scale were tested. The wedge angle of the device was set to 60∘. A reflection analysis was carried out using a revised three probe method and spectral analysis of the surface elevation to determine the incident, reflected and transmitted energy. The results show that the reflection coefficient is highest (0.79) at low significant wave height and low peak wave period, the transmission coefficient is highest (0.98) at low significant wave height and high peak wave period, and absorption coefficient is highest (0.78) when significant wave height is high and peak wave period is low. The model also shows the highest Capture Width Ratio (0.015) at wavelengths on the order of model length. The results have particular implications for wave energy conversion prediction potential using this design of device.

Marine oil spills occur suddenly and pose a serious threat to ecosystems in coastal waters. Oil spills continuously affect the ocean environment for years. In this study, the oil spill caused by the accident of the Sanchi ship (2018) in the East China Sea was hindcast simulated using the oil particle-tracing method. Sea-surface winds from the European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF), currents simulated from the Finite-Volume Community Ocean Model (FVCOM), and waves simulated from the Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN) were employed as background marine dynamics fields. In particular, the oil spill simulation was compared with the detection from Chinese Gaofen-3 (GF-3) synthetic aperture radar (SAR) images. The validation of the SWAN-simulated significant wave height (SWH) against measurements from the Jason-2 altimeter showed a 0.58 m root mean square error (RMSE) with a 0.93 correlation (COR). Further, the sea-surface current was compared with that from the National Centers for Environmental Prediction (NCEP) Climate Forecast System Version 2 (CFSv2), yielding a 0.08 m/s RMSE and a 0.71 COR. Under these circumstances, we think the model-simulated sea-surface currents and waves are reliable for this work. A hindcast simulation of the tracks of oil slicks spilled from the Sanchi shipwreck was conducted during the period of 14–17 January 2018. It was found that the general track of the simulated oil slicks was consistent with the observations from the collected GF-3 SAR images. However, the details from the GF-3 SAR images were more obvious. The spatial coverage of oil slicks between the SAR-detected and simulated results was about 1 km2. In summary, we conclude that combining numerical simulation and SAR remote sensing is a promising technique for real-time oil spill monitoring and the prediction of oil spreading.

The influence of the Gulf Stream on the wind wave characteristics is investigated. Wave&ndash, current interaction inside the current field can result in significant inhomogeneities of the wave field that change the wave spectrum and wave statistics. This study relies on regional realistic simulations using high resolution in time, space and in the spectral space that allow to solve small scale features of the order of 5 km. Wave model simulations are performed with and without ocean currents to understand the impact of the Gulf Stream. Modelled wave spectra are examined along the main axis of the Gulf Stream, and also along a transect that crosses the current. The behavior of significant wave height (Hs), the current speed, as well as the mean wave propagation and the current direction are analyzed at the selected transect locations. It is shown that inside the current the spectral wave energy grows if the wave and the current are aligned and opposed which result in a very peaked and elongated spectrum. The Gulf Stream causes a widening of the spectrum angular distribution. The results indicate that the Hs increases with the current velocity once the waves are inside the Gulf Stream. Most of the time, waves travelled in opposite direction to the current that flows from the SW to the NE, which could explain why inside the Gulf Stream waves are high. The validation of the numerical simulations is performed for Hs using different wave buoy data available in the study region for the winter period of 2019. In addition, one-dimensional wave spectra measured by an NDBC (National Data Buoy Center) wave buoy are compared with the WAM (Wave Advanced Modeling) modelled 1d spectra showing a good correlation. Accounting for ocean currents improves the quality of the simulated results, which is more realistic than only considering waves.

A non-stationary extreme value analysis of 41 years (1979&ndash, 2019) of global ERA5 (European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts Reanalysis) significant wave height data is undertaken to investigate trends in the values of 100-year significant wave height, Hs100. The analysis shows that there has been a statistically significant increase in the value of Hs100 over large regions of the Southern Hemisphere. There have also been smaller decreases in Hs100 in the Northern Hemisphere, although the related trends are generally not statistically significant. The increases in the Southern Hemisphere are a result of an increase in either the frequency or intensity of winter storms, particularly in the Southern Ocean.

Measurements of significant wave height from satellite altimeter missions are finding increasing application in investigations of wave climate, sea state variability and trends, in particular as the means to mitigate the general sparsity of in situ measurements. However, many questions remain over the suitability of altimeter data for the representation of extreme sea states and applications in the coastal zone. In this paper, the limitations of altimeter data to estimate coastal Hs extremes (&lt, 10 km from shore) are investigated using the European Space Agency Sea State Climate Change Initiative L2P altimeter data v1.1 product recently released. This Sea State CCI product provides near complete global coverage and a continuous record of 28 years. It is used here together with in situ data from moored wave buoys at six sites around the coast of the United States. The limitations of estimating extreme values based on satellite data are quantified and linked to several factors including the impact of data corruption nearshore, the influence of coastline morphology and local wave climate dynamics, and the spatio-temporal sampling achieved by altimeters. The factors combine to lead to considerable underestimation of estimated Hs 10-yr return levels. Sensitivity to these factors is evaluated at specific sites, leading to recommendations about the use of satellite data to estimate extremes and their temporal evolution in coastal environments.

For observation on the influence mechanism of environmentally and aesthetically friendly artificial submerged sand bars and reefs in a process-based way, a set of experiments was conducted in a 50 m-long flume to reproduce the cross-shore beach morphodynamic process under four irregular wave conditions. The beach behavior is characterized by the scarp (indicating erosion) and the breaker bar (indicating deposition), respectively, and the scarp location can be formulated as a linear equation regarding the natural exponential of the duration time. Overall, main conclusions are: (1) the cross-shore structure of significant wave height and set-up is mainly determined by the artificial reef (AR), (2) the cross-shore distribution of wave skewness, asymmetry, and undertow (indicating shoaling and breaking) is more affected by the artificial submerged sand bar (ASB), (3) the ASB deforms and loses its sand as it attenuates incident waves, which leads to a complex sediment transport pattern, (4) the scarp retreat is related to the beach state, which can be changed by the AR and the ASB, (5) the AR, the ASB, and their combination decrease wave attack on the beach. In conclusion, this study proves positive effects of the AR and the ASB in beach protection through their process-based influences on beach behaviors and beach states for erosive waves.

Atmospheric cold front-generated waves play an important role in the air&ndash, sea interaction and coastal water and sediment transports. In-situ observations from two offshore stations are used to investigate variations of directional waves in the coastal Louisiana. Hourly time series of significant wave height and peak wave period are examined for data from 2004, except for the summer time between May and August, when cold fronts are infrequent and weak. The intra-seasonal scale variations in the wavefield are significantly affected by the atmospheric cold frontal events. The wave fields and directional wave spectra induced by four selected cold front passages over the coastal Louisiana are discussed. It is found that significant wave height generated by cold fronts coming from the west change more quickly than that by other passing cold fronts. The peak wave direction rotates clockwise during the cold front events. The variability of the directional wave spectrum shows that the largest spectral density is distributed at low frequency in the postfrontal phase associated with migrating cyclones (MC storms) and arctic surges (AS storms).

The sensitivity of storm wave simulations to storm tides and tidal currents was investigated using a high-resolution, unstructured-grid, coupled circulation-wave model (Semi-implicit Cross-scale Hydroscience Integrated System Model Wind Wave Model version III (SCHISM-WWM-III)) driven by two typhoon events (Typhoons Soudelor and Megi) impacting the northeastern coast of Taiwan. Hourly wind fields were acquired from a fifth-generation global atmospheric reanalysis (ERA5) and were used as meteorological conditions for the circulation-wave model after direct modification (MERA5). The large typhoon-induced waves derived from SCHISM-WWM-III were significantly improved with the MERA5 winds, and the peak wave height was increased by 1.0&ndash, 2.0 m. A series of numerical experiments were conducted with SCHISM-WWM-II and MERA5 to explore the responses of typhoon wave simulations to tidal elevation and current. The results demonstrate that the simulated significant wave height, mean wave period and wave direction for a wave buoy in the outer region of the typhoon are more sensitive to the tidal current but less sensitive to the tidal elevation than those for a wave buoy moored in the inner region of the typhoon. This study suggests that the inclusion of the tidal current and elevation could be more important for typhoon wave modeling in sea areas with larger tidal ranges and higher tidal currents. Additionally, the suitable modification of the typhoon winds from a global atmospheric reanalysis is necessary for the accurate simulation of storm waves over the entire region of a typhoon.

A field experiment was conducted at a tropical microtidal intermediate sandy beach with a low tide terrace (Nha Trang, Vietnam) to investigate the short-term swash-zone hydrodynamics and morphodynamics under variable wave conditions. Continuous 2D Lidar scanner observations of wave height at the lower foreshore, subsequent run-up and swash-induced topographic changes were obtained. These data were complemented by detailed real-time kinematic GPS topographic surveys. Variable wave and tide conditions were experienced during the field experiment with relatively large swell waves (offshore significant wave height, Hs = 0.9 m to 1.3 m, peak wave period, Tp = 8 to 12 s) concomitant with spring tides at the beginning of the period, followed by mild wind waves (offshore Hs under 0.5 m and Tp 5 s) and neap tides. This resulted in the following morphological sequence: berm erosion followed by rapid neap berm reformation and beach recovery within a few days. New insights into the link between intra-tidal swash dynamics and daily beach profile evolution were found using the Lidar dataset. While waves directly cause morphology changes on a wave-by-wave basis, tidal levels were found to be a key factor in determining the morphological wave-effect (accretive or erosive) due to modulated interaction between surf and swash hydro-morphodynamics.

Super Typhoon Nepartak (2016) was used for this case study because it is the most intense typhoon that made landfall in Taiwan in the past decade. Winds extracted from the Climate Forecast System version 2 (CFSV2) and ERA5 datasets and merged with a parametric typhoon model using two hybrid techniques served as the meteorological conditions for driving a coupled wave-circulation model. The computed significant wave heights were compared with the observations recorded at three wave buoys in the eastern waters of Taiwan. Model performance in terms of significant wave height was also investigated by employing the CFSV2 winds under varying spatial and temporal resolutions. The results of the numerical experiments reveal that the simulated storm wave heights tended to decrease significantly due to the lower spatial resolution of the hourly winds from the CFSV2 dataset, however, the variations in the storm wave height simulations were less sensitive to the temporal resolution of the wind field. Introducing the combination of the CFSV2 and the parametric typhoon winds greatly improved the storm wave simulations, and similar phenomena can be found in the exploitation of the ERA5 dataset blended into the parametric wind field. The overall performance of the hybrid winds derived from ERA5 was better than that from the CFSV2, especially in the outer region of Super Typhoon Nepartak (2016).

We present findings from a geotechnical survey for a gravity-based Wave Energy Converter (WEC) to be installed in King Island, Tasmania. The goal of this work was to assess the deployment location for a 200 kW Oscillating Water Column (OWC) and to identify possible challenges for the foundation of the structure to make it Australia&rsquo, s first operational offshore OWC for a remote offshore island. The proposed location for this OWC is the southeast coast of King Island, Tasmania, approximately in a depth of ~5.5 m LAT. The survey included sub-bottom profiling, sediment cores, surficial sediment strength by penetrometer drops, seabed imagery, as well as long-term deployment (&gt, 6 months) of pressure sondes and an acoustic wave current profiler (AWAC). Our findings demonstrate that the WEC can be installed in the proposed location with significant wave height Hs ~1&ndash, 1.5 m and peak period Tp of 12&ndash, 14 s, and that the site exhibits sufficient sand coverage and quasisteady bearing capacity. The period between the survey and prospective deployment is only one year, demonstrating the efficiency of the survey methods (in particular, the use of the penetrometer) and OWC design but also the suitability of the candidate site for this device design.

In recent years, the occurrence of Ostreopsis ovata (O. ovata) Harmful Algal Blooms (HAB) has increased in the coasts of the Ligurian Sea, causing problems to the marine environment and human health. Favourable conditions for O. ovata bloom are triggered by many drivers, many of which are still under investigation, but we hypothesize that this phenomenon can be simulated using a reduced number of major meteo-marine factors, namely water temperature and remixing. Satellite and model data obtained and derived from Copernicus service, namely Sea Surface Temperature (SST) and Significant Wave Height (SWH), were therefore investigated as possible proxies of these local factors. A simplified conceptual model, built on such proxies, was developed and applied to yield a synthetic indicator informative on O. ovata abundance. The model was tested in two study areas in the Ligurian Sea, Marina di Pisa and Marina di Massa in Tuscany, Italy. The results obtained show that the synthetic indicator is able to account for about 35% of the temporal variability of O. ovata bloom occurrence in the two study areas.

Revetment elements and protective facilities on a breakwater can effectively weaken the impact of waves. In order to resist storm surges, there is a plan to build a breakwater on the northern shore of Meizhou Bay in Putian City, China. To better design it, considering different environmental conditions, physical and numerical experiments were carried out to accurately study the effects of the breakwater and its auxiliary structures on wave propagation. In the experiments, the influence of the wave type, initial water depth, and the structure of the fence plate are considered. The wave run-up and dissipation, the wave overtopping volume, and the structure stability are analyzed. The results indicate that the breakwater can effectively resist the wave impact, reduce the wave run-up and overtopping, and protect the rear buildings. In addition, under the same still water depth and significant wave height, the amount of overtopped water under regular waves is larger than that under irregular waves. With the increase of the still water depth and significant wave height, the overtopped water increases, which means that when the storm surge occurs, damage on the breakwater under the high tide level is greater than that under the low tide level. Besides, the fence plate can effectively dissipate energy and reduce the overtopping volume by generating eddy current in the cavity. Considering the stability and the energy dissipation capacity of the fence plate, it is suggested that a gap ratio of 50% is reasonable.

Freak waves have great peak energy, short duration, great contingency, and strong nonlinear characteristics, and can cause severe damage to ships and marine structures. In this study, numerical simulations in conjunction with experimental tests are applied to study air gap response and wave slamming loads of a semi-submersible offshore platform under a freak wave. A three-dimensional wave tank, which is created based on the computational fluid dynamics (CFD) method, is applied to study the hydrodynamic responses of a semi-submersible platform. The numerical model of the tank and offshore platform system are checked according to the experimental results. A typical freak wave is modelled in numerical wave tanks by the linear superposition method, and its significant wave height is 13.03 m. It is found that the freak wave is closely associated with the wave slamming. The appearance of the freak wave gives rise to a negative air, gap which appears on the side of the back wave surface at the bottom of the deck box, and considerable slamming pressure is generated. Furthermore, the wave run up at the junction of the column and the buoyancy tank is also seen due to the freak wave.

This study is dedicated to the hydrodynamic climate of Port Phillip Bay (PPB)—a largest coastal lagoon system in Victoria, Australia. Novelty of the present study includes long-term hydrodynamic hindcast simulations integrated with a spectral wave model. Specifically, a coupled unstructured grid wave–current modelling system (SCHISM + WWM) was built upon a high resolution and advanced wave physics (ST6). This coupling system was thoroughly calibrated and validated against field observations prior to applying for 27-year hindcast and case scenarios. Data from these simulations were then used to investigate the hydrodynamic climate of PPB focusing on three main aspects: water levels, waves and currents. For sea levels, this study shows that tidal and extreme sea levels (storm tides) across a large part of PPB have a similar magnitude. The highest storm tide level is found along eastern coasts of the bay in line with the wind pattern. In the vicinity of the entrance, the extreme sea level slightly reduced, in line with wave decay due to coupling effects. This extreme level is lower than results reported by previous studies, which were not built on a wave–current coupled system. For the wave field, the mean wave direction inside PPB is strongly affected by seasonality, in line with wind patterns. The 100-year return significant wave height is above 2 m along the eastern coasts. At PPH, waves get refracted after passing the narrow entrance. For currents, this study shows that both mean variations and high percentile currents are not affected by seasonality. This highlights the fact that tidal currents dominate flow movements in PPB. However, in extreme conditions, the circulation in PPB is also driven by wind patterns, forming two gyre systems. Based on case scenarios simulations, the strongest magnitude of wind-driven currents is above 0.5 m/s and found in the confined shallow region in the southern portion of PPB.

In the context of the sea state monitoring by means of the X-band marine radar, the estimation of a significant wave height ( H s ) is, currently, one of the most challenging tasks. For its estimation, a calibration is usually required using an external reference, such as in situ sensors, and mainly buoys. In this paper, a method that allows us to avoid the need for an external reference for H s estimation is presented. This strategy is, mainly, based on the correlation between a raw radar image and the corresponding non-calibrated wave elevation image to which varying its amplitude by using a scale factor creates a mathematical model for the radar imaging. The proposed strategy has been validated by considering a simulated waves field, generated at varying sea state conditions. The results show a good estimation of the significant wave height, confirmed by a squared correlation coefficient greater than 0.70 for each considered sea state.

A particular aspect of the maritime operations involves available weather intervals, especially in the context of the emerging renewable energy projects. The Black Sea basin is considered for assessment in this work, by analyzing a total of 30-years (1987&ndash, 2016) of high-resolution wind and wave data. Furthermore, using as reference, the operations thresholds of some installation vessels, some relevant case studies have been identified. The evaluation was made over the entire sea basin, but also for some specific sites located close to the major harbors. In general, the significant wave heights with values above 2.5 m present a maximum restriction of 6%, while for the western sector, a percentage value of 40% is associated to a significant wave height of 1 m. There are situations in which the persistence of a restriction reaches a maximum time interval of 96-h, this being the case of the sites Constanta, Sulina, Istanbul or Burgas. From a long-term perspective, it seems that there is a tendency of the waves to increase close to the Romanian, Bulgarian, and Turkish coastal environments&mdash, while an opposite trend is expected for the sites located on the eastern side.

Future variations in the ocean wave climate caused by global warming could affect various coastal issues. Using a third-generation wave model, this study produced projections of the ocean wave climate for winter around Japan, focusing on the Japan Sea side. Wave simulation forcing (sea surface wind) was generated through five different global warming experiments. More than half the future wave projections showed an increasing tendency of the climatological mean significant wave height during winter. However, the maximum significant wave height did not show any clear tendency in future variation. The top 1% of significant wave heights and mean wave periods showed apparent increases in frequencies of higher/longer waves in three out of the five future projections. Frequency distributions of significant wave height, mean wave period, mean wavelength and wave direction showed various future variations (reduction of small ocean waves, increasing frequency of waves from the west). There are large uncertainties in future variations of wave climate in the Japan Sea, but the high probability of variations in daily wave climate is recognized, based on the future wave projections. Variations in daily wave climate are important because they could affect the topography and environment of the coast through long-term repetitive actions.