1. The Effects of Tidal Translation on Wave and Current Dynamics on a Barred Macrotidal Beach, Northern France
- Author
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Arnaud Héquette, Adrien Cartier, and François G. Schmitt
- Subjects
coastal hydrodynamics ,barred beaches ,macrotidal beaches ,breaker index ,wave spectral analysis ,north coast of France ,Naval architecture. Shipbuilding. Marine engineering ,VM1-989 ,Oceanography ,GC1-1581 - Abstract
Barred macrotidal beaches are affected by continuous horizontal displacements of different hydrodynamic zones associated with wave transformation (shoaling, breaker and surf zones) due to significant tide-induced water level changes. A series of wave and current meters, complemented by a video imagery system, were deployed on a barred beach of northern France during a 6-day experiment in order to characterize the spatial and temporal variability of wave-induced processes across the beach. Wave and current spectral analyses and analyses of cross-shore current direction and asymmetry resulted in the identification of distinct hydrodynamic processes, including the development of infragravity waves and offshore-directed flows in the breaker and surf zones. Our results revealed a high spatial variability in the hydrodynamic processes across the beach, related to the bar-trough topography, as well as significant variations in the directions and intensity of cross-shore currents at fixed locations due to the horizontal translation of the different hydrodynamic zones resulting from continuous changes in water level due to tides.
- Published
- 2021
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