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Anthony V. Rawlings has had 30+ years of experience in the general area of skin science. He has many scientific publications, and his work has been highly cited. He has made major contributions to our understanding of skin physiology, including xerosis and hydration, barrier function, desquamation, the corneocyte envelope, physical chemistry of stratum corneum lipids, photodamage and ethnic variation. He has held management positions with several companies in the US and UK, established AVR Consulting in 2002 and maintained a long‐standing relationship with colleagues at University College London. His time as the Editor in Chief of the International Journal of Cosmetic Science was pivotal in the development of the journal. He worked hard and succeeded in getting the IJCS included in the PubMed database. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The multiple protective functions of the skin derive from the interactions between epithelial skin and immune cells as well as the commensal microbiota. Developed in the last trimester of intra‐uterine life, the skin barrier adapts dynamically after birth. Specific differences in the structure and physiology have been disclosed between infant and adult skin. The stratum corneum of infants is thinner and structured by thicker corneocytes with a more anisotropic surface in comparison to adult skin. Lower levels of the natural moisturizing factor and its constituents, together with the increased protease activity in the epidermis result in dry baby skin and ongoing adaptation of the desquamation to the extra‐uterine environment. Infant epidermis is characterized by an accelerated proliferation rate and clinically competent permeability barrier in term neonates, despite the higher baseline values of transepidermal water loss in infants. The skin surface of newborns is less acidic, which could increase susceptibility to diaper and atopic dermatitis. Immediately after birth, skin is colonized by commensal bacteria—a process dependent on the mode of delivery and of major importance for the maturation of the immune system. Skin bacterial diversity and dysbiosis have been related to different pathology such as atopic and seborrheic dermatitis. This paper focuses on the ongoing structural, functional and biochemical adaptation of the human skin barrier after birth. We discuss the interactions on the 'skin barrier/ microbiota/ immune system' axis and their role in the development of competent functional integrity of the epidermal barrier. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objectives This work aimed to design, synthesize and characterize replacement natural moisturizing factor ( NMF) composed of modified hygroscopic linear amino acids to pre-empt or repair skin barrier dysfunction. Methods Following synthesis and characterization, thermo-gravimetric analysis and quantum mechanics molecular modelling quantified and depicted water binding to the new compounds. Deliquescence relative humidity demonstrated the water-scavenging ability of the compounds, whereas snake skin moisturizing studies showed they increased water uptake into snake skin. Results From thermal analysis, N-hydroxyglycine showed greatest water-holding capacity followed by N-hydroxyserine, l-homoserine and α-hydroxyglycine; coupled with quantum mechanics molecular modelling, between 8 and 12 molecules of water could associate with each molecule of either N-hydroxyglycine, N-hydroxyserine or l-homoserine. All of our modified amino acids were efficacious and induced similar or greater water uptake compared with the established moisturizing compounds hyaluronic acid, glycerine and urea in snake skin. Incorporated at 10% in Oilatum, N-hydroxyserine induced >200% greater moisture uptake into dry snake skin compared to treatment with water alone, with efficacy related to the molecule structure and ability to bind to 12 water molecules. Oilatum cream spiked with all our unnatural amino acid hydrotropes increased water uptake into snake skin compared with Oilatum alone. The compound series was designed to elucidate some structure - efficacy relationships. Amino acid chirality did not affect the water-holding capacity but did affect uptake into skin. Compounds with high melting points and bond energies tended to decrease water-holding capacity. With isosteric replacement, the more electronegative atoms gave greater water-holding capacities. Conclusions This work demonstrates the potential of unnatural amino acid hydrotropes as skin moisturizers and has developed some predictive 'rules' for further design and refinement of chemical structures. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Background Knowledge of the ethnic differences and effects of photodamage on the relative amounts of natural moisturizing factor ( NMF) together with filaggrin processing enzymes in facial stratum corneum is limited. Our aim was to characterize the activities of calpain-1 (C-1), bleomycin hydrolase ( BH) and the levels of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid ( PCA) as a marker for total NMF levels and to relate them to plasmin activities and corneocyte maturation. Methods Enzyme activities, PCA levels and corneocyte maturation were determined from facial tape strippings of photoexposed cheek and photoprotected post-auricular areas ( PA) of healthy Caucasian (C), Black African ( BA) and albino African ( AA) female subjects living in South Africa. Results PCA concentration levels were of the order AA > BA > C subjects, and the highest activities of BH were present in the AA subjects. BH activities were greater on the photoexposed sites for the BA and C subjects, but they were only numerically elevated in the AA subjects. Photoprotected sites had an increase in C-1 activity in pigmented groups (C and BA), whereas in the AA subjects, the opposite was measured. Plasmin activities were greater on the cheek compared with the PA site for the AA and C subjects, but the activity was low in the BA subjects. In both test sites, the AA, but not the BA and C subjects, had smaller, parakeratotic and less mature corneocytes. Conclusion Variation in PCA levels has been found for different ethnic groups in this study ( AA > BA > C subjects). The values in the AA subjects are surprising as one might expect that the lack of pigmentation, and thereby increased photodamage, might lead to lower levels. Increased BH, but not C-1 activity, was observed in the AA subjects indicating that BH is associated with PCA production to a greater extent. Surprisingly, corneocyte maturation is still impaired with elevated PCA levels in AA subjects. The higher levels of plasmin and BH activities on the cheeks, especially for AA and C subjects, suggest that they can be used as markers for epidermal photodamage. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Synopsis Objective In a previous paper (Lu et al., International Journal of Cosmetic Science, in press), we reported that in comparison with normal skin, cosmetic dry skin characteristically has a thicker stratum corneum ( SC) with weaker barrier quality. Our goal here was to obtain a more complete picture of the difference between normal and cosmetic dry skin, by further analysing the data collected from the same clinical study to address two additional aspects of skin: the amount and depth profile of natural moisturizing factor ( NMF) and the cohesivity of the SC. Method The SC samples were collected by sequential tape stripping in a clinical study consisting of 64 healthy Caucasian female subjects with either normal or cosmetic dry skin. Protein and free amino acids ( FAA) on tape strips were extracted and analysed using high-throughput methods. The level of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid ( PCA), the prominent component of NMF, was detected using HPLC analysis. Results It was found that dry skin had significantly lower ratios of FAA/protein and PCA/protein across the stripped SC depth, corresponding to a lower hydration level compared with the normal skin. Our results indicated that filaggrin to FAA hydrolysis occurred deeper in dry skin and at a lower level compared with normal skin. In addition, the mass of proteins stripped from dry skin subjects was significantly higher than that from the normal skin counterpart, especially for the first 10-12 tape strips. Conclusion Our results showed that, compared with normal skin, cosmetic dry skin had a lower NMF level across the SC depth and a lower cohesivity. Such results suggested that NMF levels are critical for cosmetic skin conditions, and lower NMF production may be associated with dry skin. In addition, the NMF level and its depth profile and the SC cohesivity are useful clinical end points for assessing the efficacy of dry skin treatments such as skin moisturizers. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Synopsis Objectives Natural moisturizing factor ( NMF) serves as the primary humectant of the stratum corneum ( SC), principally comprised of hygroscopic amino acids and derivatives that absorb moisture. Barrier disruption has been shown to differentially affect the levels of specific NMF components, though the kinetics of NMF component restoration following disruption have not been examined. Here, we investigated the impact of barrier disruption caused by surfactant exposure on a subset of NMF components immediately following exposure and out to 10 days post-exposure. Methods Volunteers wore patches containing either 1% w/v sodium lauryl sulphate ( SLS) or distilled water on their forearms for 24 h. Measurements of transepidermal water loss, erythema, SC water content and a subset of SC NMF and lipid components were obtained at both sites before treatment, the day of patch removal, and 1, 2, 3, 6, and 10 days following treatment. Results Most measured NMF components decreased in response to SLS exposure. Exceptions were increases in lactate, ornithine and urea, and no difference in proline levels. In the days following exposure, reduced levels of several NMF components continued at the SLS site; however, all measured NMF components demonstrated equivalence to the vehicle control within 10 days. Histidine pH 7, lactate, ornithine and urea were the first to achieve levels equivalent to the vehicle control site, normalizing within 1 day after patch removal. Conclusion Results imply that NMF components derived from sweat and urea cycling are least impacted by SLS exposure whereas NMF components derived from degradation of filaggrin and/or other S-100 proteins are most impacted. This implies the restoration of the processes responsible for S-100 protein processing into free amino acids takes several days to return to normal. Further examination of the enzymes involved in S-100 protein processing following barrier disruption would provide insight into the pathway(s) for NMF restoration during SC recovery. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Synopsis The free amino acid (AA) composition of eccrine sweat is different from other biological fluids, for reasons which are not properly understood. We undertook the detailed analysis of the AA composition of freshly isolated pure human eccrine sweat, including some of the key derivatives of AA metabolism, to better understand the key biological mechanisms governing its composition. Eccrine sweat was collected from the axillae of 12 healthy subjects immediately upon formation. Free AA analysis was performed using an automatic AA analyser after ninhydrin derivatization. Pyrrolidine-5-carboxylic acid (PCA) and urocanic acid (UCA) levels were determined using GC/MS. The free AA composition of sweat was dominated by the presence of serine accounting for just over one-fifth of the total free AA composition. Glycine was the next most abundant followed by PCA, alanine, citrulline and threonine, respectively. The data obtained indicate that the AA content of sweat bears a remarkable similarity to the AA composition of the epidermal protein profilaggrin. This protein is the key source of free AAs and their derivatives that form a major part of the natural moisturizing factor (NMF) within the stratum corneum (SC) and plays a major role in maintaining the barrier integrity of human skin. As perturbations in the production of NMF can lead to abnormal barrier function and can arise as a consequence of filaggrin genotype, we propose the quantification of AAs in sweat may serve as a non-invasive diagnostic biomarker for certain atopic skin conditions, that is, atopic dermatitis (AD). [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]