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At the beginning of the 20th century, the eclectic artist Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo patented two innovative methods for polychrome printing on fabrics and textiles, giving life to Fortuny fabric production in Venice. The first patent was related to colour application, while the second to a special machine that allows continuous printing using cylindrical rollers. Despite the descriptions, the methodology and materials used remain a secret. In collaboration with the Fortuny Museum in Venice, this research aimed at studying and identifying the different steps of Fortuny printing methodologies. Printing matrices, fabrics and raw materials found in the artist's studio were analysed in a multi-analytical campaign through digital microscopy, X-ray fluorescence (XRF), Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy in attenuated total reflectance (FTIR-ATR), μ-Raman spectroscopy and gas chromatography–mass spectrometry (GC–MS). Three main pigments were identified in paper samples: ivory black, a copper-based pigment, and a carbon black pigment with ultramarine for blues. The pigments were bound with linseed oil and colophony in varying proportions. Polychrome silk fabrics were dyed with a base colour, and then the coloured patterns were superimposed by continuous printing. Prussian blue was identified as one of the textile inks. Results provided a better understanding of printing methodology. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This paper presents the limitations and potential of ATR-FTIR spectroscopy applied to the study of cellulosic textile collections The technique helps to differentiate natural fibres according to the content of lignin, pectin, hemicellulose, and wax, although some problematic issues should be considered. The spectral differences derived from the environmental humidity uptake and the plant composition are reviewed and discussed in the light of new experimental data. Diagnostic bands are proposed that can discriminate between different fibres from different plants. The contribution of ageing is also considered, demonstrating that sometimes aged fibres cannot be reliably recognised. In contrast, the potential of ATR-FTIR spectroscopy to discriminate between natural and modified fibres is discussed and proven. The best results were obtained when microinvasive ATR-FTIR spectroscopy was coupled with SEM observations. The proposed protocol was tested on microsamples of various cellulosic materials from traditional Japanese samurai armours dating from the 16th to the 20th centuries (Morigi Collection, Museo delle Culture, Lugano, Switzerland). The results facilitated a complete characterisation of the materials and demonstrated that the protocol can be used to study a wide variety of cellulosic materials, including both natural and man-modified fibres, and paper. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Paper aging and protection processes play an essential function in the preservation of library collections and archives. In this study, some physical-mechanical properties of paper samples from XXth century books (private collections), such as pH acidity, tensile strength, and modulus of elasticity, as well as optical properties, such as absolute change in yellowness, were examined before and after treating them with hydroxyapatite nanoparticles (HAp). Accelerated light aging was also evaluated and discussed. The treatment with HAp nanoparticles increased the paper's pH to slightly alkaline values (approximately pH 8). Washing and treating the paper improved its mechanical properties compared to untreated paper; the tear length increased by 35% and the modulus of elasticity increased by 56%. That the treated and aged samples are more elastic than the original samples demonstrates that HAp nanoparticles consolidated the cellulose fibers. Additionally, particle morphology, size, composition and size distribution were assessed via image analysis using scanning electron microscopy (SEM-EDX), atomic force microscopy (AFM), and the ImageJ processing program. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]