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This study delves into the complex ways in which narratives about food function as mediums for conveying nationalist and racist ideologies, highlighting a broad view that encompasses discriminatory ideologies like xenophobia, nativism, suprematism, and protectionism. Given the pivotal role of food in cultural identity and symbolism – a role particularly pronounced in the rich food heritage of Italian culture – this research offers profound insights into the subtle manifestations of nationalism and racism within the context of Italian food culture. Employing semi-structured interviews with thirty individuals from diverse backgrounds in the Italian food sector, including production, preparation, and distribution, the study unveils that expressions of nationalism and racism often stem from a deep-seated impulse to defend and protect Italian cultural heritage. However, the investigation also uncovers the inherent ambiguities and contradictions in these attitudes, illustrating how nationalist and racist sentiments are frequently set aside in efforts to promote and globalize Italian culinary traditions. This paradox underscores the complex and often contradictory nature of cultural nationalism and racism, challenging the consistency of such ideological stances in the face of globalization. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This paper examines contemporary food culture in Ireland through the phenomenon of foodism and the habits and traits expressed through the subculture of foodies. Elements and actors of the Irish food scene are also considered. Qualitative research was applied to investigate the five research objectives posed. This featured six in-depth interviews with "key informants" from Ireland's tourism sector, educational sector, food sector, and a state food agency, conducted during 2020. The study draws insights from the fields of cultural studies and sociology. Thematic analysis was applied as part of the methodology process, from which five themes developed from the data findings. These are: (1) An evolving Irish food culture, (2) Two perceptions of Irish food, (3) A breakdown of hierarchies, (4) Influencing factors, (5) State body remits. The primary research reveals that industry experts and academics concur that Irish food and culture have "evolved" from a more traditional cuisine and culture and that these are dynamic entities. In addition, it establishes that there is a "hunger for food" amongst a small but growing cohort of Ireland's population, who wish to gain information via food media and to access food experiences such as culinary courses, gastro tours and food festival events. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Globally, food is recognized as an issue in urban areas regarding diet-related diseases, unhealthy food environments, disconnection from culture and social relations, and environmental unsustainability. Concurrently, food also has a critical role in addressing the complex challenges cities are facing. Food pedagogies has emerged as a key element in tackling these food-related issues. However, pedagogical aspects of food are yet to be broadly explored and no known conceptual pedagogical framework has been developed. This paper aims to inform development of a conceptual framework for the enactment of food pedagogies, based on community food leaders' perspectives and experiences. Semi-structured interviews were undertaken with 39 experienced leaders from diverse food-related fields in Australia. Interviews were analyzed thematically. Four key themes emerged from participants' reflections on the current state of food-related activities: 'Awareness of food and food systems'; 'Enjoyment and social connections'; 'Experiential practices in everyday life': and 'Action for change.' These four themes are discussed both as aims of pedagogical practices and as essential pedagogical content for conceptualizing food pedagogies. A draft conceptual framework is developed to inform actions by policy makers, and public and private sector food practitioners to create healthy and sustainable societies through the medium of food. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In December 2020, Singapore made global headlines by being the first country to approve the commercial sale of lab grown meat. This approval was part of an effort by the city state to intensify the development of novel foods on the island. This paper describes this recent growth of novel food companies in Singapore. Singapore's novel food policies ostensibly aim to create food security for its citizens. We argue that the embrace of the technology that surrounds novel foods also aligns with Singapore's vision of building a "smart nation." Although food is not a digital technology, the approaches to novel foods being taken in Singapore share many parallels with the rollout of digital technology. These parallels can be seen in the domains of standardization, regulation, intellectual property, data-gathering, and training. We anticipate that these shifts in procurement, regulation, consumption of foods, may ultimately challenge traditional food pathways and Singapore's food identity. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The third issue of Food, Culture & Society for 2024 explores various topics related to food and identity. It includes studies on how food was portrayed in a nineteenth-century Italian children's book, the evolution of domestic technologies through a recipe box collected in the early 20th century, and changes in dish recommendations for British households from 1968-2016. The issue also delves into the theme of food on university campuses and food insecurity, examining topics such as food insecurity stigma among students, missing meals on campus, and the growth of novel food companies in Singapore. Additionally, the issue covers articles on food and sociality, nutrition, and includes reviews of recent books on food politics and practices. [Extracted from the article]

This paper explores the historical development of protein-enhanced foods in Great Britain and how they were marketed by food manufacturers to convince consumers that protein was essential to maintaining a healthy lifestyle. It focuses particularly on Plasmon and Emprote – the two biggest brands of the early twentieth century – and uses multimodal critical discourse analysis to identify how semiotic resources are used to embed products in scientific rationality, promote health discourses and develop concepts of masculinity in accordance with the two strands of the physical culture movement. It argues that, just as today, food manufacturers capitalized upon the growing middle-class interest in functional foods and presented protein as an "elixir" that consumers should take to safeguard their health, the health of their families and the state of the nation. Overall, this study demonstrates that, even with today's strict legislation on food packaging and advertising, protein food manufacturers still use similar techniques to sell their products. In gaining a better understanding of the historical use of semiotic resources in food advertising, we can assess the legitimacy of current food regulations and ensure that people make informed choices when shopping. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This article examines how displays in the Food Zone of the New York World's Fair (1939–40) represented the future of food production, preparation, and consumption through the spectacular frameworks of art/aesthetics, performance, gastronomy, and scientific innovation. Industrial designer Russel Wright constructed the main thematic exhibit of the Food Zone, the Focal Exhibit. Bringing his experience as a stage designer to the project, he sought to convey a visual history of the human diet over the last 150 years through humor and surrealism. Using fair guidebooks, photographs, and publicity materials, this essay juxtaposes Wright's strategy to engage visitors through critical thinking with the techniques of commercial exhibits, like Borden's, the Continental Baking Company, and Heinz, who more directly showcased the making of and tasting of their products. While the Food Zone as a whole celebrated food processing for transforming the food industry, the different approaches that exhibitors took to communicate that message gives insight into cultural tensions over the meaning of food to consumers. Whereas the Food Focal Exhibit depicted food as elemental, an instrument of alimentation, some of the most successful exhibits celebrated the joys of cooking and eating, recognizing food's social and gastronomic functions in daily life. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This essay examines how culinary infrastructure encouraged and impeded immigrant entrepreneurship in provisioning Toronto before Canada adopted an official policy of multiculturalism in the 1970s. Culinary infrastructure refers broadly to facilities and technologies – both physical and knowledge-based – that undergird food systems. The Anglo-dominated infrastructural hub of the St. Lawrence market provided the central food retailing space during the Victorian era, then became a wholesale depot in the first half of the twentieth century, and finally gentrified into a tourist market in the 1970s. Nevertheless, until the belated rise of supermarkets, most residents purchased food from immigrant entrepreneurs, largely pushcart vendors in the nineteenth century, and increasingly small shopkeepers and street markets such as Kensington in the twentieth. This essay concludes that although the allocation and regulation of markets were intended to assimilate immigrant foodways into an idealized Anglo city, newcomers actively shaped Toronto's culinary geography. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Food retailers, restaurateurs and transnational families rely on continual border-crossings for the global circulation of foodstuffs. Those crossings are highly regulated. Not everything gets in. This paper provides an overview of how food safety is (unevenly) enacted at U.S. ports of entry. Where government regulators and enforcement agents perceive in certain foods danger of adulteration or contamination, importers and producers also experience threat to customary practices of foodmaking, provisioning and commerce. Synecdochic, part-for-whole, reasoning guides food journeys and helps determine the fate of perishable foods as they attempt to cross semi-permeable thresholds that delineate and connect nation-states, and that make possible, even as they also restrict, the flow of international trade. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Monosodium glutamate (MSG) traveled to America in the Pacific theatre of World War II. The flavor-enhancing food additive was known in the U.S. beforehand, but it was the experience of Japanese military rationing that drove American military and food industry interests to truly adopt the technology and to invest in domestic production. In 1957, researchers in Japan discovered a method of producing MSG with unprecedented efficiency and profitability: industrial fermentation. Industrial fermentation refers to the large-scale production of commercially valuable substances by growing selected microbial cultures on cheaply available raw materials. This paper explores how MSG came to be harvested at scale from the metabolic excretions or wastes of bacteria fed on other agri-industrial waste products (e.g., sugar, soy, wheat). The $8.4 billion (USD) Ajinomoto Company, Inc., founder and top global manufacturer of MSG (in addition to other seasonings, processed foods, beverages, amino acids, pharmaceuticals and specialty chemicals), has been fermenting glutamate from modified bacterial strains since roughly 1960. The profitability of the fermentation method provided the impetus for expanding the global MSG market in the postwar period, impacting the health and aesthetic value of foodways around the world. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Mothers are under tremendous pressure to feed children wholesome meals – a job that requires careful attention to every ingredient on a child's plate. They are also urged to restrain how much they control what children eat as part of modeling ease and detachment toward food and eating. In this paper, we explore how mothers navigate this contradictory advice to determine an appropriately careful and relaxed approach to feeding children. Drawing from interviews with a diverse sample of thirty mothers, we find that women distance themselves from two extreme food femininities: the "fast food mother" and the "crazy organic mother." The latter extreme is most relevant to the middle-class mothers in our study. These mothers employ specific emotional and communicative strategies to maintain careful control over their children's diet without evoking too much anxiety, or alienating friends, fellow parents, and relatives who are part of their everyday food routines. We argue that mothers are caught in an impossible bind: circumvent the industrial food system without becoming too obsessive. Our study contributes to the literature on calibration, motherhood, and feeding the family by revealing the substantial emotion work required to meet the cultural expectations of healthy eating and "perfect balance." [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A powerful cultural concept not easily translated into English, terroir both contains and communicates valuable associations about place. Because terroir is an important way to communicate with US consumers, food producers work to draw upon valuable associations between food products and their particular places of origin. In this paper, I put forward a notion of terroir as a conceptual terrain onwhich artisan food entrepreneurs negotiate with the potentially fraught relationship between the place where their food products originate and the associations that US consumers might have about those particular places. This in-depth case study analysis examines the complete collection of a transnational gourmet food company's commercial Facebook posts (N = 1485) in order to illustrate how a food-producing firm both creates and revises its virtual identity online through strategic attention to terroir. Because few studies have examined the virtual strategies of artisan food producers with regard to the emplacement of terroir, this project undertakes a richly descriptive case study design by focusing on a transnational specialty food firm based in Indonesia. Its analysis suggests that artisan entrepreneurs can strategically rescale terroir in order to create positive (and therefore, valuable) associations in the face of potentially negative ones. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A sub-culture of "locavore" chefs is playing a critical but under-examined role in addressing concerns about the conventional, industrialized food system by re-localizing the sourcing, processing, and preparation of food. The values that underlie why certain chefs decide to work in this niche market, their strategies to overcome the situational challenges of sourcing locally produced food, and the ways they develop the knowledge and skills needed to prepare and incorporate these ingredients into appealing menus all point to the unique position that these chefs occupy in the local food movement. This paper presents insights from a study that utilized in-depth interviews to investigate the culinary practices of twenty-three local food-promoting chefs in Alberta, Canada. Using a social practice theory framework, these chefs' culinary practices were examined based on what material conditions they encountered, how they employed particular skills and competencies and why they decided to become "locavores." This study reveals that although issues of product accessibility, distribution, cost, and consistency of quality and volume are constraining factors, chefs' ability to innovate and reskill, to foster supportive relationships with farmers and consumers, and their commitment to alternative values are keys to their success in niche "local" markets. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Within contemporary concerns about the overall health of the US food system, the “local” has emerged as a key concept for strengthening sustainability, community, and access to affordable and fresh foods. For Hawai‘i, the local is more than a geographic category; it is also a core identity by which its residents mark their relationship to place. This double use of localism thereby underlines the personal—and political—stakes of “eating local” in an increasingly globalized food system. This introductory essay for a special journal issue on Hawai‘i’s Food Systems offers the island archipelago as a case study for understanding how these systems-in-place interact with, respond to, and reinforce histories of colonialism, migration and settlement, monocropping, and importation. By attending to critical discourses about localism through the geographic and social particularities of Hawai‘i, themes of place are highlighted as a central concern to the field of Food Studies today. [ABSTRACT FROM PUBLISHER]

They are colourful and tasty. They are discarded by agri-business and free to swap and share. For these and many other reasons, the idea of "heritage" vegetables has been mobilised by diverse groups in the UK in recent years to critique and re-imagine industrial food production systems. However, from activist leaflets to gardening advice, claims about the value of heritage foods are rarely subject to critical scrutiny. Using existing work on the uses of heritage discourse in ancient monuments as a starting point, this article explores some of the ways heritage vegetable narratives can frame food heritage in ways that imply not only different conceptions of value, but different models of custodianship and access to heritage resources. The focus here is on the way three interest groups structure the story of "heritage in danger" in two radically different ways with regards to the passage of time. Using a discourse theoretical approach. I explore how a range of institutions and campaign groups use a linear model of time to paint a picture of catastrophic loss of diversity which threatens the future of humankind. Meanwhile a narrative model commonly employed by writers of lifestyle media texts suggests the time of loss has been superseded by a new golden age of consumer-driven abundance and taste. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This article examines the informational exchanges between consumers, food activists and small-scale food producers and vendors through the lenses of justice and literacy. Employing participant observations and interviews at food-related events in South Florida, the article offers two con tributions to the growing research on food systems: (1) small-scale food producers, farmworkers, vendors and activists are working an additional shift as citizen educators; and (2) farmworker justice and climate change remain neglected and disconnected from food-related concerns. This article argues that consumers, producers and vendors share an interest and a passion for good-tasting, healthy food that starts a conversation. Yet together they minimize or avoid the politicized nature of climate change and the moral problem of farm worker exploitation. Further more, the scientifically complex subject of genetic engineering emerged as a concern and point of activism during the course of this research. Together, climate change, labor and genetic engineering remain difficult topics to bring into conversations and into the food community's educational efforts due to the political, moral and scientiffcally challenging nature of each concern respectively. This work suggests that citizens as consumers would be empowered by a more complete understanding of the food system, including (1) molecular-level changes due to biotechnology; (2) workplace in justices in the Helds; and (3) the links between agriculture and climate change--what this article refers to as food system literacy. The absence of food system literacy is a social problem that masks structural inequities and long-term risks, and that discourages or disables identiffcation and discussion of some of the more complicated issues related to the food chain. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The nests of the edible-nest swiftlet (Aerodramus spp., Apodidae: Collocaliini), constructed entirely of hardened saliva, have long been a highly prized delicacy in China, and are reputed to have a number of beneficial medicinal properties. Swiftlet nests are among the most expensive animal products consumed by humans, sometimes referred to as "the caviar of the East. " Recently, the trade in edible birds ' nests has expanded rapidly to meet the demands of an increasingly prosperous consumer society in China. Investors erect special buildings with interiors created to resemble the limestone caves naturally inhabited by the swiftiets, transforming the skyline and ambiance of towns across Vietnam, Thailand, Malaysia and especially Indonesia, source of around 80 per cent of the global nest supply. Focusing primarily on Indonesia, this paper presents an overview of the birds' nest trade, exploring some of the drivers and impacts of this latest round in the long history of domestication. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this article, I engage the culturally prevalent contemporary discourse in the United States around "good" foods—broadly understood as whole, organic, slow and local—within the broader political economic context of the current economic crisis, specifically as it relates to class. A commonplace in both coverage and public understanding of that crisis is that it has decimated the middle class. Although a number of problematic assumptions inform this commonplace, I contend that the contemporary discourse around "good" foods is a prominent way in which class is rhetorically recreated and reconfigured, specifically to the end of remaking the myth of the middle class. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Academic and lay debates about food variously articulate the ways in which contemporary food provisioning systems are inherently problematic and unstable. Drawing evidence from the seeming prevalence of adulteration scandals, moral panics and other food crises, these debates reproduce a set of entangled moral discourses about food, its consumption and production. Within these discourses, ideological lines are drawn, and particular types of consumers (typically poor and working class), particular types of producers (those that produce for the agri-industrial food complex) and particular types of retailers (typically "budget" and "corporate" supermarkets) are vilified as the loci of all that is supposedly wrong with food. Missing, however, is a more nuanced social and cultural reading that unpacks these discourses and analyses failings within food through multiple lenses such as class, social deprivation, and their multi-sealer geographical implications. Using the recent horsemeat scandals that dominated headlines in spring 2013, the purpose of this commentary is to unpack and disentangle these discourses of food. We argue that "what is wrong with food" is less related to its systems of provision, but rather more the ways its various agents are discursively cast and subsequently moralized as perpetrators of a globalized and industrial food system. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Since 1996, the European Commission's "origin foods" program has awarded protective labels to typical regional products. This ostensibly serves the purpose of maintaining traditional artifacts and local practices against the homogenizing effects of the globalized economy. Because the program emphasizes the link of an artifact to a group's history and territory, conflicts over market shares often refer to truth claims that engage authenticity and cultural identity. Two products from the Republic of Cyprus serve as cases-in-point. Loukoumi, a candy also known as Cyprus delight, was the first product to be awarded an European Union quality label in Cyprus, while the application for halloumi, a cheese traditionally made from goats and sheep milk was hotly contested and is still pending. Research shows that in Cyprus, the European Union program is deployed to the advantage of large-scale industrial producers and facilitates the homogenization of regional diversity in favor of an ethnicized national heritage. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

As the negative health, environmental and social consequences of the industrial food system are brought to light, convenience food options are being criticized and "re-engagement" with food celebrated. Indeed, there are many benefits when households are more involved in their own food provision, doing things such as growing food and cooking from scratch. However, calls for a return to more labor and time-intensive food practices often overlook the difficulties that food providers face in trying to manage both paid and unpaid work in the context of contemporary employment and household patterns. This paper brings light to these under-examined issues by putting tile feminist concept of social reproduction into dialogue with the food literature. It is argued that significant and widespread changes in food provision at the household level cannot take place unless employment conditions and the gendered division of labor are addressed. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Despite a lackluster economic climate and determined competition from large commercial retailers, farm direct markets continue to increase in number throughout the United States. Although this trend has been widely acknowledged in the literature, there has been little attempt to explain the forces behind it. This study examines the recent flood of popular and alternative media sources that have popularized local and direct food markets. While acknowledging the clear influence of these sources, the article uses both empirical and interdisciplinary qualitative analysis to critically examine tile trend. Building upon Frederick Kirschenmann's discussion of the "conversational marketplace." this study investigates the ways in which consumers engage and reciprocate the dominant narratives of consumer food culture. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This paper offers a discussion of A Taco Testimony: Meditations on Family, Food, and Culture, the memoir by Chicana writer Denise Chávez. I argue that Chávez experiences the act of eating and preparing Mexican food as a critique of racism and as a way for her to assert her Mexicanidad or "Mexicanness." More importantly, it is her mother's food that instills Chávez with pride in her ethnic heritage, providing her with the tools necessary to critique and resist various forms of oppression that she faces as a Chicana. As the paper explains, the food provided by Delfina Rede Faver Chávez feeds her daughter's political consciousness. Chávez's memoir is very recent, yet as I discuss, much food scholarship has not extensively studied the contributions made by Chicana writers. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

There is widespread belief that the fat body is a product of individual choice. However, in recent years, public discourse has begun to acknowledge environmental influences on body size. For example, nutritionists now point to the food industry's role in creating a "toxic environment" that facilitates weight gain.This paper explores how the food industry shapes consumption patterns, various public responses to induce corporate responsibility, and the food industry's position on fat—a "market-choice frame" that emphasizes agency. Additionally, using original survey data (n = 456) and interview data (n = 42), the paper examines the resonance of this industry frame. As a whole, the data point to support for industry views, a strong belief in individual responsibility, and the pervasiveness of moral models of fatness. The social implications of these findings are discussed. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This article considers the possibility for an aesthetics approach to food and eating as both a way to fashion ethics and a way to understand culinary aspects of society. I consider the possibilities for a critical ethics within dietary aesthetic practices through an interpretive investigation of vegetarian cookbooks. For this work I examined two books each from the English and Anglo-American vegetarian movement (1879 and 1904) and the Anglo-American vegetarian movement of the 1960s and 1970s. I argue that, although all the cookbooks under consideration here contain aesthetic practices of food and eating, there are profound ethical differences and distances between them. I argue further that some practices, rather than others, are ethically useful and important insofar as they allow sensual experiences "corresponding to change" (Massumi 1987: xvi). [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The article addresses the importance of food studies in a global context. The author discussed two trends that are worth further investigation in the field of food studies, based on the emerging global context. First of which is the growing role of agro-food corporations in global food governance. The second is the force for further agricultural trade liberalization under the World Trade Organization. One of the major issues discussed by the author is the growing corporate influence in food governance at the global level.

The article focuses on regulation, marketing and critical gap in food studies. The author argues on the need for more scholarly activity to inform the development of food policy that furthers population health in Canada. The paper also examines the current direction in Canadian regulations in connection with the food studies, as of September 2008. It suggests that more liberal policies on nutrition labeling and fortification in Canada will fuel the further development and nutrition-related promotion of processed foods.

The article forms part of broader research that interrogates the prevalence of food in the media and the paradigm shifts generated and perpetuated by new forms of media such as food television and the internet. This work departs from previous food research by concentrating not on what is communicated about food, but how it is communicated. The analysis is guided in part by Guy Debord's The Society of the Spectacle (1967), which offers a Marxist economic analysis of an increasingly image-dominated culture. With a primary focus on celebrity chefs, this paper argues two points. First, that celebrity chefs, like Hollywood stars, are overwhelmingly media products, implying an arbitrary relationship between food and celebrity. Second, that the real product of food media is not the celebrity chef, but the consumer. Food media creates a base of consumers whose appetites are literally and figuratively kept wanting; this is the new business of food. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In the first half of the twentieth century, indeed until the 1960s, dining out was unusual for ordinary Australians, saved for special occasions when they ate in the dining room of the local hotel. This formal and conventional style of dining provided utterly predictable food in surroundings that emphasized the specialness of the occasion and the status of the diners, rather than the imaginative quality of the food. Pubs also provided cheap food at the counter, to customers drinking at the bar. This had all changed by the end of the twentieth century, as pub dining rooms became restaurants, catering to the pleasures of modern urban life, offering adventure, fantasy and the lure of the exotic. This paper traces this transformation and argues that the change in pub food culture was a feature of modernity and universalizing US capitalism, not a consequence of postwar immigration but a business enterprise in which Europeanness featured as an alternative to Americanness. In this, the transformation of pub licensing laws was a crucial catalyst. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A culinary revolution in America and elsewhere has recently been pinpointed to around 1963. Three important New Zealand cookery books were published that year, and these are investigated to characterize the worldwide shift. Was "grandma's cooking" lost or "gourmet cooking" gained? Seemingly contradictory evaluations might be reconciled in the light of major changes in the food industry. Good domestic cooks embraced successive modes and also resisted them, primarily by continuing to grow and preserve some of their own food, and then by keeping up the cooking. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Teaching about the food system is not easy given its complexity. Every one of the more than 30,000 food products available to consumers in today's supermarkets can be seen as a representation of the food system. Just as food products vary in taste and nutritional value, they can also differ in terms of the multiple steps and processes involved in transforming crops as harvested on a farm into processed food products on a grocer's shelf. While students in nutrition classes gain in-depth understanding of the nutrient content of food and health implications of diets, courses devoted to an understanding of the food system are less common and present an interesting challenge to professors. Recent investigations of the food system employ a geographic, historical, and structural analysis. This paper describes the use of a food product as a starting point for food system study undertaken by students in an undergraduate nutrition course. This tangible and engaging approach to discovering the food system embedded in a food product leads to interesting insights into the "knowability" of the food system. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The article discusses various reports published within the issue including one by Leen Beyers on how Italian immigrants to Belgium have invented their own culinary identity and another by Diane Kirkby on how working-class pubs served to modernize Australian dining practice.