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Abstract Sediment transport past rocky headlands has received less attention compared to transport along beaches. Here we explore, in a field-based study, possible pathways for sediment movement adjacent to Point Dume, a headland in Santa Monica Bay, California. This prominent shoreline feature is a nearly symmetrical, triangular-shaped promontory interior to the Santa Monica Littoral Cell. We collected current, wave, and turbidity data for 74 days during which several wave events occurred, including one associated with a remote hurricane and another generated by the first winter storm of 2014. We also acquired sediment samples to quantify seabed grain-size distributions. Near-bottom currents towards the headland dominated on both of its sides and wave-driven longshore currents in the surf zone were faster on the exposed side. Bed shear stresses were generated mostly by waves with minor contributions from currents, but both wave-driven and other currents contributed to sediment flux. On the wave-exposed west side of the headland, suspended sediment concentrations correlated with bed stress suggesting local resuspension whereas turbidity levels on the sheltered east side of the headland are more easily explained by advective delivery. Most of the suspended sediment appears to be exported offshore due to flow separation at the apex of the headland but may not move far given that sediment fluxes at moorings offshore of the apex were small. Further, wave-driven sediment flux in the surf zone is unlikely to pass the headland due to the discontinuity in wave forcing that causes longshore transport in different directions on each side of the headland. It is thus unlikely that sand is transported past the headland (specifically in a westerly direction), although some transport of finer fractions may occur offshore in deep water. These findings of minimal sediment flux past Point Dume are consistent with its role as a littoral cell boundary, although more complex multi-stage processes and unusual events may account for some transport at times. Highlights • Currents, waves, and sediment transport were measured around a prominent headland. • Currents over 74 days were apex-ward on each side and reversing at the point. • Sand and mud transport are likely decoupled with sand ejected offshore. • Two flow separation regimes are proposed from current patterns around the point. • The headland is a likely littoral cell boundary for some sediment fractions. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract: Crissy Field Marsh (CFM; http://www.nps.gov/prsf/planyourvisit/crissy-field-marsh-and-beach.htm) is a small, restored tidal wetland located in the entrance to San Francisco Bay just east of the Golden Gate. The marsh is small but otherwise fairly typical of many such restored wetlands worldwide. The marsh is hydraulically connected to the bay and the adjacent Pacific Ocean by a narrow sandy channel. The channel often migrates and sometimes closes completely, which effectively blocks the tidal connection to the ocean and disrupts the hydraulics and ecology of the marsh. Field measurements of waves and tides have been examined in order to evaluate the conditions responsible for the intermittent closure of the marsh entrance. The most important factor found to bring about the entrance channel closure is the occurrence of large ocean waves. However, there were also a few closure events during times with relatively small offshore waves. Examination of the deep-water directional wave spectra during these times indicates the presence of a small secondary peak corresponding to long period swell from the southern hemisphere, indicating that CFM and San Francisco Bay in general may be more susceptible to long period ocean swell emanating from the south or southwest than the more common ocean waves coming from the northwest. The tidal records during closure events show no strong relationship between closures and tides, other than that closures tend to occur during multi-day periods with successively increasing high tides. It can be inferred from these findings that the most important process to the intermittent closure of the entrance to CFM is littoral sediment transport driven by the influence of ocean swell waves breaking along the CFM shoreline at oblique angles. During periods of large, oblique waves the littoral transport of sand likely overwhelms the scour potential of the tidal flow in the entrance channel. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: Ocean surface waves are the dominant temporally and spatially variable process influencing sea floor sediment resuspension along most continental shelves. Wave-induced sediment mobility on the continental shelf and upper continental slope off central California for different phases of El Niño-Southern Oscillation (ENSO) events was modeled using monthly statistics derived from more than 14 years of concurrent hourly oceanographic and meteorologic data as boundary input for the Delft SWAN wave model, gridded sea floor grain-size data from the usSEABED database, and regional bathymetry. Differences as small as 0.5m in wave height, 1s in wave period, and 10° in wave direction, in conjunction with the spatially heterogeneous unconsolidated sea-floor sedimentary cover, result in significant changes in the predicted mobility of continental shelf surficial sediment in the study area. El Niño events result in more frequent mobilization on the inner shelf in the summer and winter than during La Niña events and on the outer shelf and upper slope in the winter months, while La Niña events result in more frequent mobilization on the mid-shelf during spring and summer months than during El Niño events. The timing and patterns of seabed mobility are addressed in context of geologic and biologic processes. By understanding the spatial and temporal variability in the disturbance of the sea floor, scientists can better interpret sedimentary patterns and ecosystem structure, while providing managers and planners an understanding of natural impacts when considering the permitting of offshore activities that disturb the sea floor such as trawling, dredging, and the emplacement of sea-floor engineering structures. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract: Sediment transport and the potential for erosion or deposition have been investigated on the Palos Verdes (PV) and San Pedro shelves in southern California to help assess the fate of an effluent-affected deposit contaminated with DDT and PCBs. Bottom boundary layer measurements at two 60-m sites in spring 2004 were used to set model parameters and evaluate a one-dimensional (vertical) model of local, steady-state resuspension, and suspended-sediment transport. The model demonstrated skill (Brier scores up to 0.75) reproducing the magnitudes of bottom shear stress, current speeds, and suspended-sediment concentrations measured during an April transport event, but the model tended to underpredict observed rotation in the bottom-boundary layer, possibly because the model did not account for the effects of temperature–salinity stratification. The model was run with wave input estimated from a nearby buoy and current input from four to six years of measurements at thirteen sites on the 35- and 65-m isobaths on the PV and San Pedro shelves. Sediment characteristics and erodibility were based on gentle wet-sieve analysis and erosion-chamber measurements. Modeled flow and sediment transport were mostly alongshelf toward the northwest on the PV shelf with a significant offshore component. The 95th percentile of bottom shear stresses ranged from 0.09 to 0.16Pa at the 65-m sites, and the lowest values were in the middle of the PV shelf, near the Whites Point sewage outfalls where the effluent-affected layer is thickest. Long-term mean transport rates varied from 0.9 to 4.8metrictonsm−1 yr−1 along the 65-m isobaths on the PV shelf, and were much higher at the 35-m sites. Gradients in modeled alongshore transport rates suggest that, in the absence of a supply of sediment from the outfalls or PV coast, erosion at rates of ∼0.2mmyr−1 might occur in the region southeast of the outfalls. These rates are small compared to some estimates of background natural sedimentation rates (∼5mmyr−1), but do not preclude higher localized rates near abrupt transitions in sediment characteristics. However, low particle settling velocities and strong currents result in transport length-scales that are long relative to the narrow width of the PV shelf, which combined with the significant offshore component in transport, means that transport of resuspended sediment towards deep water is as likely as transport along the axis of the effluent-affected deposit. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: Cross-shore exchange by strong (cross-shore wind stress, τsx >0.05Pa) diurnal (7–25h) sea breeze events are investigated using two years of continuous wind, wave, and ocean velocity profiles in 13m water depth on the inner-shelf in Marina, Monterey bay, California. The diurnal surface wind stress, waves, and currents have spectral peaks at 1, 2, and 3cpd and the diurnal variability represents about 50% of the total variability. During sea breeze relaxation (−0.05<τsx <0.05Pa), a background wave-driven inner-shelf Eulerian undertow profile exists, which is equal and opposite to the Lagrangian Stokes drift profile, resulting in a net zero Lagrangian transport at depth. In the presence of a sea breeze (τsx >0.05Pa), a uniform offshore profile develops that is different from the background undertow profile allowing cross-shore Lagrangian transport to develop, while including Lagrangian Stokes drift. The diurnal cross-shore current response is similar to subtidal (>25h) cross-shore current response, as found by . The seasonality of waves and winds modify the diurnal sea breeze impact. It is suggested that material is not transported cross-shore except during sea breeze events owing to near zero transport during relaxation periods. During sea breeze events, cross-shore exchange of material appears to occur onshore near the surface and offshore near the sea bed. Since sea breeze events last for a few hours, the long-term cross-shore transport is incremental each day. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: In the summer of 2001, a coastal ocean measurement program in the southeastern portion of San Pedro Bay, CA, was designed and carried out. One aim of the program was to determine the strength and effectiveness of local cross-shelf transport processes. A particular objective was to assess the ability of semidiurnal internal tidal currents to move suspended material a net distance across the shelf. Hence, a dense array of moorings was deployed across the shelf to monitor the transport patterns associated with fluctuations in currents, temperature and salinity. An associated hydrographic program periodically monitored synoptic changes in the spatial patterns of temperature, salinity, nutrients and bacteria. This set of measurements show that a series of energetic internal tides can, but do not always, transport subthermocline water, dissolved and suspended material from the middle of the shelf into the surfzone. Effective cross-shelf transport occurs only when (1) internal tides at the shelf break are strong and (2) subtidal currents flow strongly downcoast. The subtidal downcoast flow causes isotherms to tilt upward toward the coast, which allows energetic, nonlinear internal tidal currents to carry subthermocline waters into the surfzone. During these events, which may last for several days, the transported water remains in the surfzone until the internal tidal current pulses and/or the downcoast subtidal currents disappear. This nonlinear internal tide cross-shelf transport process was capable of carrying water and the associated suspended or dissolved material from the mid-shelf into the surfzone, but there were no observation of transport from the shelf break into the surfzone. Dissolved nutrients and suspended particulates (such as phytoplankton) transported from the mid-shelf into the nearshore region by nonlinear internal tides may contribute to nearshore algal blooms, including harmful algal blooms that occur off local beaches. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: A 5-yr data set of near-bed current and suspended-sediment concentration measured within 2m of the seabed in 60-m water depth has been analyzed to evaluate the interannual variability of physical processes and sediment transport events on the Eel River continental shelf, northern California. This data set encompasses a wide range of shelf conditions with winter events characterized as: Major Flood (1996/97), strong El Niño (1997/98), strong La Niña (1998/99), and Major Storm (1999/00). Data were collected at a site located 25km north of the Eel River mouth, on the landward edge of the mid-shelf mud deposit. During the winter months sediment resuspension is forced primarily by near-bed oscillatory flows, and sediment transport occurs both as suspended load and as gravity-driven (fluid-mud) flows. Winter conditions that caused periods of increased sediment transport existed on average for 142dyr−1 over the total record, ranging between 89d in the Major Flood year (1996/97) and 171d in the La Niña year (1998/99). Hourly averaged values of significant wave height varied between 0.5 and 10.7m and hourly averaged values of near-bed orbital velocities ranged between 0 and 125cms−1. During the five winters, sediment threshold conditions were exceeded an average of 35% of the time, ranging from 19% in the Major Flood year (1996/97) to 52% in the La Niña year (1998/99). Mean concentration of suspended sediment, measured at 30cmab, ranged from values close to 0–8gl−1. Among winters, major sediment flux events exhibited different patterns due to varying combinations of physical processes including river floods, waves, and shelf circulation. Within winters, the major period of sediment flux varied from a 3-d fluid mud event (Major Flood winter) to a 50-d period of persistent southerlies (El Niño winter) and a winter of continuous storm cycles (La Niña winter). Winter-averaged suspended-sediment concentration appeared to vary in response to river discharge, while total sediment flux responded to storm intensity. The net sediment flux appeared to depend on timing of river discharge and shelf conditions. On the Eel River shelf, the mid-shelf mud deposit apparently is not emplaced by deposition from the river plume, but by secondary processes from the inner shelf including off-shelf transport of sediment suspensions and gravity-driven fluid-mud flows. Thus, these inner-shelf processes redistribute sediment supplied by the Eel River (a point source) making the inner shelf a line source of sediment that forms and nourishes the mid-shelf deposit. Large-scale shelf circulation patterns and interannual variability of the physical forcing are also important in determining the locus of the mid-shelf deposit, and both are influenced by climate variations. Post-depositional alteration of the deposit also depends on the subsequent shelf conditions following major floods. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: Concurrent video images of sand ripples and current meter measurements of directional wave spectra are analyzed to study the relations between waves and wave-generated sand ripples. The data were collected on the inner shelf off Huntington Beach, California, at 15m water depth, where the sea floor is comprised of well-sorted very fine sands (D 50=92μm), during the winter of 2002. The wave climate, which was controlled by southerly swells (12–18s period) and westerly wind waves (5–10s period), included three wave types: (A) uni-modal, swells only; (B) bi-modal, swells dominant; and (C) bi-modal, wind-wave dominant. Each wave type has distinct relations with the plan-view shapes of ripples that are classified into five types: (1) sharp-crested, two-dimensional (2-D) ripples; (2) sharp-crested, brick-pattern, 3-D ripples; (3) bifurcated, 3-D ripples; (4) round-crested, shallow, 3-D ripples; and (5) flat bed. The ripple spacing is very small and varies between 4.5 and 7.5cm. These ripples are anorbital as ripples in many field studies. Ripple orientation is only correlated with wave directions during strong storms (wave type C). In a poly-modal, multi-directional spectral wave environment, the use of the peak parameters (frequency, direction), a common practice when spectral wave measurements are unavailable, may lead to significant errors in boundary layer and sediment transport calculations. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

We combine direct observations, longer-term wave data, and model calculations to characterize resuspension and transport of fine-grained, effluent-affected sediment on the Palos Verdes shelf. Near-bed waves, currents, and suspended sediment concentrations were monitored during the winter of 1992–93 with a bottom tripod and current-meter mooring at a 63-m-deep site. Wave conditions that winter were moderate (∼2 year recurrence interval), and mean current was alongshelf to the northwest; currents were not significantly correlated with wave conditions. Seven wave events during the winter (December–March) produced near-bed wave orbital velocities at the study site in excess of 14 cm s−1, the observed threshold for significant resuspension. Three of these events occurred during the bottom tripod deployment and are characterized by the highest persistent suspended sediment concentrations in the tripod record. Suspended sediment flux was alongshelf to the northwest for 5 of the 6 wave events for which current data were available; one event occurred during low southeast currents. Measured suspended sediment concentration and grain size generally agree with values that were calculated using a shelf sediment transport model with no adjustment of parameters from values determined for two muddy sites on the northern California shelf. We extend our seasonal observations to a period of almost 2 decades by applying the observed thresholds for wave-driven resuspension to near-bed wave conditions calculated from NDBC Buoy 46025 surface wave data. An average of 10 resuspension events per year, with an average duration of 1.6 days, were identified at a water depth of 60 m; the number of events dropped to 3 per year at 90 m, beyond the shelf break. For the majority of these events, calculated net suspended sediment flux is toward the northwest (alongshelf) at an average rate of 140 kg m−1 h−1; about a third of the events have net southeastward flux at an average rate of 30 kg m−1 h−1. The calculated thickness of the resuspended surface layer of the bed was less than 1 cm for all events at 60 m. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]