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The process of flocculation in dredge plumes was investigated by field measurements using Laser In-Situ Scattering and Transmissometry (LISST), Optical Back Scatter (OBS) sensors and an Acoustic Current Doppler Profiler (ADCP) during dredging campaigns in Port Curtis, Queensland (Australia). Suspended sediment characteristics differed significantly between natural ambient suspended sediment and sediment suspended by dredging as well as between sediment suspended by mechanical and hydraulic dredgers. LISST measurements enabled distinction of the suspended sediment by origin and showed that the majority of sediment particles naturally in suspension were aggregated flocs made up of multiple smaller particles. Primary particles in natural suspended sediment had a median particle size (d 50) of 8 to 14 μm, while in-situ flocs had a d 50 of 52 to 99 μm. There were both microflocs and macroflocs present in the natural suspended sediment, with the microflocs being dominant (representing 67%–80% of the flocs). Mechanical dredging resulted in the release of individual particles, microflocs and macroflocs, with the potential for a comparable percentage of macroflocs as in natural suspended sediment (11%–27% compared to 20%–33% in natural suspended sediment). Macroflocs released by mechanical dredging were likely to have originated from the seabed. During overflow from the hopper, the suspended sediment released from the hydraulic dredger had smaller flocs compared to the natural suspended sediment, with a reduction in the d 50 of in-situ flocs from 91 to 67 μm and a reduction in the proportion of macroflocs from 32% to 24%. These results indicate that larger macroflocs present on the seabed had been broken up by the hydraulic dredging, with most of the suspended sediment remaining in the form of smaller microflocs, suggesting that the flocs were not completely disaggregated by the shear-stress generated during hydraulic dredging. Ongoing aggregation of suspended sediment was shown to occur in the sediment suspended by both dredging methods within 20–25 min of the plumes being generated. This study demonstrates the importance of considering flocculation in predictive dredge plume modelling studies to prevent significantly underestimating the settling velocity and substantially over-estimating the extent and intensity of dredge plumes if flocculation is not accounted for. • Flocculation occurs in plumes generated by both mechanical and hydraulic dredging • Flocs released by mechanical dredging were comparable to natural flocs • Flocs from hydraulic dredging were smaller than natural flocs • Ongoing aggregation of flocs occurred in the plume for both dredge types [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Suspended sediment concentration (SSC) is one of the fundamental topics in sediment study. The parameterization of the SSC profile of silty sediments is still under-researched. This study focuses on the mean SSC profile for silty sediments under non-breaking wave-dominant conditions. First, inspired by a 1DV model, different types of the distribution of mean eddy viscosity were proposed, i.e., a toe-type distribution over flat bed and a constant-toe type distribution over rippled bed. Then, the time-averaged diffusion equation for suspended sediment transport was analytically solved, and expressions for the mean SSC profiles were derived. The expressions involve several basic physical processes, including the effects of bed forms, stratification, hindered settling and mobile bed. Verification using a number of experimental datasets showed that the proposed expressions can properly calculate the mean SSC for silt and are applicable for sand as well. In conclusion, this research provides an approach to estimate the mean SSC for silty sediments under wave-dominant conditions, which is expected to be applicable for engineering practice and numerical modelling. • Formulations for mean SSC (suspended sediment concentration) profile of silty sediments were derived. • Several essential physical processes were considered in the formulations. • The SSC profiles over rippled bed and hydrodynamically plane bed were simulated. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In situ measurements and ship-based resuspension experiments using annular flumes are used to determine sediment stability and critical erosion thresholds for four sites with significantly different sediment characteristics, located in the Celtic Sea at water depths of 100 m. Seasonal and spatial variability of sediment characteristics and erodability is examined, and found to be the result of changes in percentage of organic carbon in the surface sediments (R2 = 0.82) and bulk density (R2 = 0.73) respectively when individual characteristic bed parameters are considered. Principal component analysis and linear regression analysis are used to determine a predictive model for erosion threshold in the Celtic Sea (R2 = 0.99), based on grain size, sorting, kurtosis, bulk density, porosity, percentage fines, organic carbon content and chlorophyll a concentration. Physical sediment characteristics were found to be more significant controls of bed stability than biological factors. Local hydrodynamic conditions are used to determine the likelihood and frequency of resuspension given these critical erosion thresholds. Resuspension is driven by tidal currents, and is common year-round, leading to a constant re-working of bed sediments in particular at the muddier sites. This is confirmed by in situ measurements of suspended sediment concentration. • Bed erodibility in the Celtic Sea a function of organic carbon and bulk density. • Predicting erosion threshold requires emphasis on physical sediment characteristics. • Bed sediments re-worked year round by tidal resuspension, enhanced by winter waves. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Sediment transport over Sandy Point dredge pit in the northern Gulf of Mexico during a cold front event in November 2014 was examined using a finely resolved numerical model. The Delft3D model was used to perform numerical experiments that simulate the effect of wind-generated waves, wind-driven currents, river discharge, and tides on sediment dynamics in Sandy Point dredge pit. The hydrodynamics and sediment models were validated and calibrated using field data of current, wave, water level, and suspended sediment concentration. Two potential sources of sediment were examined: fluvial sediment from the Mississippi River and resuspended sediments from the seabed. Results showed that during a cold front, shear stress from wave motions played a significant role in the resuspension of sediments in Sandy Point dredge pit. The maximum cold front-related wave impact on sediment resuspension could increase near-bed sediment concentration in Sandy Point dredge pit by 20–50 times. In addition, the results suggest that the primary source of sediment for Sandy Point dredge pit during a cold front was resuspension from the ambient seabed due to increased bottom shear stress by wind-induced waves and strong southward wind-driven currents. Currents dispersed sediments from the Mississippi River passes and inhibited riverine sediment supply from Sandy Point dredge pit. Results also showed that cold fronts contribute 16%–24% of the annual sedimentation in Sandy Point dredge pit. • A coupled wave-current-sediment model was used to study the sandy dredged pit. • The combined effect of waves and currents on sedimentation was assessed. • The reverse bottom current inside the pit was identified. • Bottom boundary layer was significantly affected by waves. • Sediment accumulation occurs mostly on the north of the pit. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A model is proposed to determine the sediment transport rate generated by the combined action of sea waves and tidal currents, the latter being modelled as a sequence of steady currents because of the large values of the Keulegan-Carpenter number of the tidal flows, which allow to neglect inertial effects in their modelling. The hydrodynamic module solves Reynolds-averaged momentum equations by introducing a two-equation turbulence model, which considers also the flow in the region closest to the sea bottom and enforces the no-slip condition and the vanishing of the turbulent kinetic energy at the bottom without the need to assume the existence of a logarithmic velocity profile and to fix the normal derivative of the turbulent kinetic energy close to the sea bed. Hence, the evaluation of the velocity profile in the near-bed region turns out to be accurate. The sediment transport module determines the sediment concentration and sediment transport for a mixture of non-cohesive and cohesive sediments. To validate the model, its predictions are compared with laboratory measurements and field data collected over rippled beds at two different tidal estuaries. Then, results are obtained for values of the parameters chosen to mimic a site close to Punta Umbría (Huelva, Spain) and considering different hydrodynamic conditions and different sediment mixtures. The influence of the waves on the suspended sediment concentration is lower for the cohesive fraction than for the non-cohesive fraction. For all the sediment mixtures, it turns out that the cohesive fraction is well mixed over the whole water depth, meanwhile the concentration of the non-cohesive fraction has significant values only near the bottom, thus showing that an accurate description of turbulence dynamics in the buffer layer and viscous sublayer (if it exists) is important to quantify the sediment transport rate. • Sediment transport module that reproduces the concentration of cohesive fraction is presented. • Tidal current is modelled as a sequence of steady-currents due to the large values of the Keulegan-Carpenter number. • Menter's turbulence model to predict the turbulence structure both in the wave bottom boundary layer and in the core region. • Turbulence dynamics description in the buffer layer and viscous sublayer is important to quantify the sediment transport. • Applicable to any type of sediment mixture. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The Lower Mekong Delta Coastal Zone (LMDCZ) is emblematic of the coastal erosion problem facing many tropical deltas. Over the last 3500 years, large river sediment fluxes expanded the delta seaward, and waves and currents formed the Ca Mau Peninsula to the southwest. Since the middle of the 20th century, the LMDCZ is affected by various human activities that include reduction of river fluxes due to damming and sand mining, land subsidence due to groundwater extraction, and reduction of protective coastal mangroves in favor of agriculture and aquaculture. Coastal erosion is observed along many sections of the delta, with a rate of up to 50 m per year in some areas. However, the role of human activities remains difficult to assess because of its complexity. The present modeling study is designed to sort out the contribution of natural hydrodynamic redistribution of sediments from man-induced erosion. The modeling system used is based on CROCO, forced by global reanalyses at the boundaries and at the surface, including wave statistics (required by the sediment transport model). Tides and realistic river forcing are also included. Calibration and validation relies on a combination of in situ and remotely-sensed observations, and laboratory experiments. Once validated, coastal dynamics are investigated by performing sensitivity experiments for both the hydro- and sediment dynamics. The results suggest that while wind is the main factor driving the coastal currents, the sediment dynamics is essentially the result of re-suspension due to wave-induced bed shear stress. The suspended sediments are then redistributed by coastal currents that are not limited to the nearshore zone. Strong seasonality of the process is observed with the northeast winter monsoon being the season of strongest re-suspension and sediment redistribution. The annual sediment budget is characterized by important local disequilibrium, with alongshore patterns that are in agreement with the observed shoreline evolution. The effect of a decrease in river sediment supply is difficult to evaluate because the estuarine zone is still in accretion, apart from the particular case of Go Cong shores. Far from the estuarine zone, subsidence is an additional strong candidate to explain erosion in areas that should naturally be accreting. Synthesizing these results, the study proposes a first attempt at a "taxonomy and geography" of processes along the coastal Mekong delta that can explain the recent observations of shoreline changes and help design protection measures. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Simulating cross-shore sediment transport and associated sandbar migration is still a challenging task for phase-averaged coastal morphological models. Numerical studies have mostly relied on beach morphology prediction for calibration and validation, without examining in much detail the underlying hydrodynamics, sediment concentrations and transport rates. This paper reports on a new three-dimensional coastal morphodynamic model based on the hydrodynamic model of Zheng et al. (2017), combined with an advection-diffusion type suspended sediment transport model and the extended SANTOSS near-bed sediment transport formula of Van der A et al. (2013), to represent the key cross-shore transport mechanisms. The model is are calibrated based on comprehensive measurements from a large-scale laboratory experiment involving regular plunging breaking waves over an evolving sandbar, covering detailed comparisons on hydrodynamics, sediment suspension, transport rates, and bed level evolution. Separate validation using large scale wave flume experiments were also conducted to confirm the model's performance on different conditions. Good agreements are obtained between measurements and model results, which demonstrates the model's ability to reproduce cross-shore sediment transport processes under breaking waves correctly, given that the appropriate parameterizations for intra-wave processes are included. Model results also reveal the onshore near-bed transport is related to wave-induced near-bed streaming, wave skewness and asymmetry, and bed slope effects at different locations across the beach surface. Wave breaking-induced turbulence enhances the near-bed transport within the bed boundary layer which needs to be taken into account in order to achieve good model prediction skills. • A new phase-averaged morphodynamic model is developed to represent cross-shore sediment transport and beach morphology. • The model is calibrated based on comprehensive measurements to ensure good representation of all physical processes. • Model validation demonstrate the effectiveness of the model parameters for the related sediment transport processes. • Wave asymmetry and breaking turbulence to the near bed sediment onshore transport and resuspension is very important. • Detailed modelling of near bed process to include breaking turbulence to the sediment transport predictions is required. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Estuarine turbidity maxima (ETMs) are of sedimentological, geomorphological and ecological significance. In this study, a well-validated and process-based sediment transport model was used to investigate the response of ETM dynamics in the Yangtze Estuary (YE) to construction of the Three Gorges Dam (TGD) and morphological evolution of the YE. The model results demonstrated that the ETM dynamics change in the upper estuary was controlled by the TGD construction. After the TGD construction, the ETM area decreased by 22% (from 1116 to 874 km2) and the ETM center location moved landward 7 km during the flood season. The estuarine morphological evolution played a key role in the ETM dynamics change of the mid-lower estuary. The ETM area decreased by 55% (from 1478 to 658 km2) and 15% (from 658 to 562 km2) due to the estuarine morphological evolution from 1998 to 2010 and from 2010 to 2018, respectively. Meanwhile, the ETM center location moved landward 38 km and 7 km during the periods 1998–2010 and 2010–2018, respectively. Overall, both the TGD construction and estuarine morphological evolution induced decreased suspended sediment concentrations in the estuary. Furthermore, the effect of TGD construction was dominant in the upper estuary, whereas the effect of estuarine morphological evolution became dominant in the mid-lower estuary. These findings provide implications for management of the YE and other similar estuaries. • Estuarine turbidity maximum (ETM) decreased by 22% and moved landward 7 km after Three Gorges Dam (TGD) construction. • Estuarine morphological evolution induced ETM to decrease by 15–55% and move landward 7–38 km. • TGD construction and morphological evolution dominated ETM changes in upper and mid-lower estuaries, respectively. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The Gulf of Alaska is a biologically productive ocean region surrounded by coastal mountains with high seasonal runoff from rivers and glaciers. In this complex environment, we measured the concentrations and size distributions of 2.5 µm–27 mm marine particles using the Laser in situ Scattering and Transmissometry device (LISST-DEEP) and the Underwater Vision Profiler 5 (UVP) during summer 2015. We analyzed the spatial distribution of particles across a wide range of size classes to determine the probable drivers. Spatially, total particle concentrations surpassed 1000 µl/l nearshore in the northeasternmost entrances and in the outflow of Cook Inlet, as well as offshore past the shelf break. These dual maxima suggest high lithogenic inputs nearshore and high biological production at and beyond the shelf break. Most large particles (> 0.5 mm) imaged by the UVP were detrital aggregates. In nearshore surface waters near river inputs, size distributions revealed small size classes (< 100 µm) to be most influential. At the shelf break, size distributions revealed a dual peak in both small (< 100 µm) and very large (> 2 mm) size classes. This study highlights the importance of lithogenic inputs from a mountainous margin to the coastal ocean and their potential to enhance sinking of biological material produced at the shelf break. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A 3D sediment transport model based on the modified environmental fluid dynamics code (EFDC) and the nearshore waves simulation model (SWAN) is developed to study the change of suspended sediment concentration and bottom shear stress under the actions of pure current and wave-current. After being validated by the field measured data, the proposed sediment transport model is applied in the Oujiang River Estuary, China. The results show that the ratios of both bottom shear stress and suspended sediment concentration of pure current to those of wave-current show a gradually increase from shallow nearshore water to deep open sea. The results also show that the proportion of wave contributions on bottom shear stress and sediment concentration are above 60%, approximately 20-30% and less than 10% for the water depth of less than 5 m, 5-10 m and more than 20 m, respectively. For the waters among islands, the proportion of wave contribution to bottom shear stress and sediment concentration is reduced to 10-20% for -5 m water depth and this is more obvious for the waves of large amplitude. The bottom stress and suspended sediment concentration between islands are mainly controlled by tidal current, and the effect of wave is not significant. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Macro-tidal estuaries with mountain streams are typical estuarine systems in southeastern China. Suspended sediment transport and turbidity maxima are sensitive to changes in the tidal and fluvial regimes of estuaries. To improve our understanding of river-ocean interactions and thus improve estuarine forecasts for biogeochemical processes, we developed a high-resolution hydrodynamic and sediment transport coupled model to investigate the suspended sediment transport and estuarine turbidity maximum (ETM) in the Oujiang Estuary. This estuary is characterized as a macro-tidal estuarine system with a large tidal range and drastic fluctuations in freshwater and sediment discharge. The results led to the following conclusions: (1) the ETM occurred during spring tides due to strong tidal resuspension. In contrast, it was not formed during the neap tide because of weak bottom shear stress. The ETM moves upstream to Yanmen during low river discharge and migrates downstream to the river mouth during high river discharge, causing sediment deposition in the nearshore region. (2) Owing to the characteristics of mountain streams and upstream anthropogenic reservoirs, the ETM is strengthened during low river discharge (∼100 m3 s−1) even during the wet season, which supplements the fact that the ETM is more prevalent during the dry season and withers during the wet season. The suspended sediment forming the ETM mainly originates from shallow offshore shoals owing to tidal resuspension. Owing to the weak vertical exchange flow near the river mouth, the ETM is related to the exchange flow during the low water flow. (3) The ETM excursion shows semi-diurnal variability with different transport distance for high and low river discharges. Tidal pumping dominates the suspended sediment flux in the core of the ETM, which is mainly maintained by two components of the Euler and Stokes fluxes as the tidal energy depletes during the flood tide. • Estuarine modeling was conducted to study suspended sediment dynamics. • ETM excursion occurs for high and low river. • Decomposing sediment fluxes reveals ETM mechanisms. • River discharge and tidal pumping play roles on ETM formations. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A laboratory experiment was carried out to study sediment transport dynamics occurring in the swash zone of a coarse-sandy beach built in a large-scale wave flume. Hydro- and morpho-dynamic as well as sediment transport data were collected using sensors mounted on a scaffold rig deployed in the lower swash zone close to the moving bed. The high resolution of near-bed data permitted quantitative evaluation of suspended and sheet flow contributions to the total sediment transport. Although sheet flow sediment fluxes were higher than suspended fluxes, the vertically integrated suspended sediment load overcame the sheet flow load during uprush and it was on the same order of magnitude during backwash. The observed cumulative sediment transport was generally larger than the morphological changes occurring shoreward of the rig location implying either an underestimation of the offshore sediment transport or an overestimation of the onshore fluxes obtained from concentration and velocity profile data. Low correlations were found between net swash profile changes and runup parameters suggesting that local hydrodynamic parameters provide little or no predictability of accretion and erosion of an upper beach which is near equilibrium. The balance between erosion and deposition induced by individual swash events brought a dynamic equilibrium with small differences between the profiles measured at the start and at the end of the run. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The processes of sediment entrainment. transport and deposition over bedforms are highly dynamic and temporally and spatially variable. However, most measurements of these processes tend to be collected in a vertical line at one spatial location above the bed; one dimensional in the vertical 1D-V. Such measurements capture the temporal signature, and, to a lesser degree, the spatial variability when bedforms migrate, and they have contributed greatly to our understanding of sediment transport processes. It is generally acknowledged, however, that such 1D-V systems provide a limited description of the spatially three dimensional processes occurring at the turbulent and intra-wave time scales. It would undoubtedly facilitate the interpretation of fundamental sediment processes above bedforms if other spatial dimensions could be simultaneously interrogated. To this end a multi-frequency acoustic array lias been developed to measure suspended sediments and bedforms over a horizontal transect of the bed in the vertical providing two dimensional observations in the vertical and lwrizontal, 2D-HV. This new acoustic instrument, the BASS I; Bedform And Suspended Sediment Imager, has been deployed in the River Dee tidal estuary in the UK. The design of the BASS1 and results from the deployment are presented and its performance assessed against more conventional instrumentation. Measurements and images of 2D-HV suspended sediments and bedforms are provided to illustrate the capability anp future use of the BASSI for the investigation of sediment transport processes. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Predicting net suspended sediment fluxes in coastal regions is important for promoting good water quality, maritime transport and marine industries. Aggregation and disaggregation of suspended particulate matter responding to spatial and temporal variations in turbulence can control particle size and hence settling speed; little is currently known about how this influences the net suspended sediment flux. A tidal strait, in which the flux is confined to be in one of two directions, makes a good site for observing the effect of changes in particle size on the suspended sediment flux. The Menai Strait in North Wales is a narrow tidal strait in which the flow speeds increase to a maximum in the narrowest central region, the Swellies. Observations at sites on either side of the Swellies show that the median size of suspended particles varies with the speed of the tidal current, but also depends on the direction of the flow, with the smallest particles seen when the current is flowing out of the Swellies. The implication (supported by model results) is that the strong currents in the centre of the strait tear up flocs into small pieces which are then carried out towards both ends of the strait by the tide. Averaged over a tidal cycle, there is a net flux of larger particles into the Swellies and a net flux of small particles out. These results are relevant to the formation of isolated turbidity maxima around a region of strong turbulence. • We present observations of current velocity, suspended particle concentration and size at two locations in a tidal strait. • The size of the particles varies over a tidal cycle and is smallest when the flow is directed from the centre of the strait towards the observing site. • There is a net flux (averaged over a tide) of larger particles from both ends of the strait towards the centre and a net flux of small particles in the opposite direction. • A simple model of suspended particle transport in a tidal strait has been constructed to help interpret these observations. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The long-distance transport of Yellow River sediments has formed an omega-shaped ('Ω') distal muddy deposit in the Yellow Sea. Numerous studies have investigated the sediment dynamics and sedimentary evolution of the deposit, but several key questions remain unanswered due to insufficient observations. To reveal the mechanisms of sediment dynamics and quantify sediment transport and deposition processes, this study collected field datasets in the depocenter of the muddy deposit off the Shandong Peninsula. Bottom mounted tripods were deployed from August 18 to 27, 2017, and from February 23 to March 2, 2018, during which two strong wind events with speeds of over 10.8 m/s occurred. The results showed that near-bed suspended sediment concentration responded directly to varying hydrodynamic conditions, and significant differences in suspended sediment concentration between two wind events could be ascribed to a number of factors (e.g., tidal current, wave periods, wind stress, turbulence). The harmonic analysis demonstrated that suspended sediment variations during the spring tide were directed mainly by resuspension, while resuspension and advection contributed equally at neap tide. The variations in background suspended sediment concentration can be ascribed to the residual current. Furthermore, the sediment transport pattern is similar to the pattern of water circulation. Generally, the along-shore suspended sediment flux is about one order of magnitude higher than the cross-shore flux. In summer, the suspended sediment was transported mainly downcoast. In winter, sediment was transported downcoast during wavy periods and upcoast during calm periods. Advection dominated sediment flux in most cases, except during wavy periods when local resuspension increased significantly, and the contribution of resuspension term to along-shore flux was up to 87%. Meanwhile, cross-shore flux also increased significantly under strong winds, which was simultaneously modulated by downcoast and offshore winds. After statistical analysis, we found that offshore winds controlled the cross-shore sediment transport in winter. Using parameterized calculation and statistical analysis, the average accumulation rate of the study site was estimated to be 0.6 cm/yr. During calm periods, lower background sediment concentration in summer led to lower deposition rates than in winter. In addition, the frequent strong wind events in winter cause extremely high erosion rates. This study provides new perspectives on quantitative variations in suspended sediment transport and regional erosion/deposition from synoptic to seasonal variations in the distal mud deposit. • In-situ observations at the bottom boundary layer were conducted in summer and winter on the muddy deposit off the Shandong Peninsula. • The advection dominates sediment flux in most cases, except for during wind gusts when local resuspension increases significantly. • Combining parameterized method and observational data, the accumulation rate is estimated. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A new method is introduced for estimating suspended sediment concentration and grain size from acoustic backscatter observations, incorporating techniques from linearized statistical inverse theory and data assimilation. A series of laboratory experiments with a sediment-laden jet were conducted for the purposes of demonstrating the method. The inversion results show improvements in stability compared to existing methods, in cases with highly attenuating suspensions. These improvements are due to the use of statistical regularizing assumptions, which act to mitigate issues associated with poor conditioning and nonlinearity in the inverse problem. The new method is also more computationally efficient than existing methods, owing to the use of linearization. Matlab code is provided implementing the new method, see Appendix A . [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The vertical distribution of longshore sediment transport was measured on sandy macrotidal barred beaches of Northern France under low to moderate wave energy conditions, using streamer traps collecting sand at different elevations above the bed. Longshore sediment flux measurements and wave and current data were collected at several locations along cross-shore transects in order to analyse the relation between the vertical patterns of suspended sand transport and the forcing hydrodynamics across the bar-trough topography. Suspended sediment fluxes generally showed a typical upward decrease in longshore transport, revealing that near-bed transport represents the major transport mode on these macrotidal beaches, notably over the bars where the highest rates of sediment transport were measured. Conversely to previous studies in which the shape of the vertical distribution was either independent of the location in the surf zone or which showed an increase in suspended transport over intertidal bars, our results revealed a strong upward decrease in longshore sediment transport over bars, especially under higher wave energy conditions, whereas more uniform vertical distributions were observed in troughs. These differences in the vertical distribution of longshore sediment flux can be explained by spatially variable wave breaking and surf zone processes over the bar-trough topography and by the distribution of small-scale bedforms across the intertidal zone, which influence sand resuspension processes and control the shape of the vertical profiles of sediment transport. Larger longshore sediment fluxes over bars can be explained by the action of breaking waves that are responsible for increased sediment remobilization, but the dominance of spilling breakers on the studied beaches likely results in significant turbulence dissipation, leading to limited sand resuspension in the water column. Comparatively, landward propagating surf bores over bars favour an increase in sediment concentration at higher elevations above the bottom in the adjacent trough. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Distribution of suspended sediment in the Bohai Sea and its seasonal variability were investigated based on the datasets obtained from four cruises carried out in different seasons in 2010 and 2012. The results indicate that the spatial distribution of suspended sediment in the Bohai Sea was dominated by the river input and coastal resuspension that depends on the type of local surface sediment and hydrodynamics. The suspended sediment was mostly concentrated in the southern Bohai Sea particularly around the Yellow River Delta in the summer season as impacted by the river plume but confined within a very limited area near the river mouth, whereas in winter–spring seasons sediment concentration became much higher as a result of active coastal resuspension induced by energetic wave actions in the shallow water. High sediment concentration was found in Liaodong Bay in winter–spring seasons when dynamics become strong but decrease significantly in summer seasons. The sediment concentration in the southern Bohai Strait was much higher than that in the northern part, suggesting evident sediment export to the Yellow Sea particularly in the winter–spring seasons. Strong seasonal variability of suspended sediment distribution in the Bohai Sea was consistent with the monsoon activity and associated wave actions and coastal currents that are varying seasonally. The dominance of seasonal monsoon signal and associated wave dynamics make the subaqueous Yellow River delta to be a major sink for the terrestrial sediment in the summer seasons, but transiting to a primary source in winter–spring seasons for sediment redistribution in the Bohai Sea and sediment export to the Yellow Sea. The seasonal patterns of suspended sediment distribution in the Bohai Sea and the dominance of monsoon activities may provide a good reference to understanding the sediment transport in the China Shelf Seas where sediment resuspension and coastal circulation are evidently driven by monsoon. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The vertical distribution of suspended sediment in continental shelf waters has significant implications for water quality, aquatic ecology, and sediment transport. Nevertheless, there have been relatively few systematic field studies aimed at determining whether a general vertical trend in suspended sediment concentration (SSC) exists, or how any such vertical trend can be expressed mathematically. In this study, based on 402 individual SSC profiles measured hourly during 16 dual-tide voyages at 8 stations in the outer Yangtze Estuary, we found that SSC followed an average depth profile that was smoothly concave-up. This average profile, and the relationship between SSC and height above the seabed, was exponential ( R 2 >0.99). In comparison, the traditional Rouse equation based on hydrodynamics describes the measured average SSC profile poorly, in that the greater the distance from the near-bed height (where the reference SSC is taken), the greater the deviation of the simulated SSC from the measured SSC. However, in this study, a new approach was developed to overcome this flaw in the Rouse equation, which divides the equation into two parts. One part uses a reference SSC from a near-bed level, and an upwards decreasing coefficient, in the same way as the conventional Rouse equation. Conversely, the other part uses a reference SSC from at the water surface, and a downwards decreasing coefficient. Our modified hydrodynamics-based equation expresses the measured SSC well, with an R 2 between the simulated and measured SSCs exceeding 0.99. According to the average SSC profiles, the near-bed SSC was 2.8 times greater than the SSC at the water surface (close to the value of 3 suggested for modeling studies in the absence of empirical data), and the depth-averaged SSC was 1.8 times greater than the SSC at the water surface. We also found that the average SSC profile showed a uniform (from water surface to seabed) decline in SSC (25%) in response to the dramatic decline in the suspended sediment load supplied by the Yangtze River over the past three decades. However, the shape and vertical ratio of the average SSC profile have changed little, which suggests that the general form of the SSC profile is determined mainly by local hydrodynamics and sediment properties, and not by fluvial sediment supply. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The development of a theoretical description of how sound interacts with flocculating sediments has been lacking and this deficiency has impeded sound being used to extract quantitative suspended sediment parameters in suspensions containing flocs. As a step towards theoretically examining this problem a relatively simple heuristic approach has been adopted to provide a description of the interaction of sound with suspensions that undergo flocculation. A model is presented for the interpretation of acoustic scattering from suspensions of fine sediments as they transition from primary particles, through an intermediate regime, to the case where low density flocs dominate the acoustic scattering. The approach is based on modified spherical elastic solid and elastic fluid scatterers and a combination of both. To evaluate the model the variation of density and compressional velocity within the flocs as they form and grow in size is required. The density can be estimated from previous studies; however, the velocity is unknown and is formulated here using a fluid mixture approach. Uncertainties in these parameters can have a significant effect on the predicted scattering characteristics and are therefore investigated in the present study. Furthermore, to assess the proposed model, outputs are compared with recently published laboratory observations of acoustic scattering by flocculating cohesive suspensions. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract: Sediment trapping by the halocline of a river plume was investigated over a spring-neap tidal cycle in the 2010 dry season in the Pearl River Estuary. Benthic tripod observations and concurrent shipboard measurements were conducted to examine mean and turbulent flows, and sediment distributions. The field observations showed that suspended particles are apparently concentrated on the halocline of the river plume, forming a patchy high-concentration suspension with larger floc sizes. This sediment trapping occurred only on the neap tide when the estuary was highly stratified. An estimation of the gradient Richardson number indicates that stratification suppression is dominant below the halocline, whereas shear-induced instability occurs above the halocline. The turbulent kinetic energy balance demonstrates that the buoyancy flux dominates over viscous dissipation in turbulence destruction. Therefore, the trapping of suspended sediment with large floc sizes on the halocline is induced by both salinity stratification and buoyancy-induced instability. This finding can explain the role of salinity stratification in the mechanism for estuarine turbidity maxima and long-distance transportation of suspended sediment. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

The Rouse profile has been traditionally used to represent the vertical distribution of suspended sand in a marine benthic boundary layer. Yet it is one of the biggest unknowns in estuarine morphodynamics, largely due to uncertainties of the ratio of the sediment fall velocity to bed friction on which the Rouse exponent (R=w s/βku ⁎) is based. A field campaign was carried out at three different locations in the Oka estuary, northern Spain, in order to examine these uncertainties. Each location differed in grain size and flow condition thus offering a wide range of settings. The first survey was inside the estuary (wave sheltered, flood tide dominated and relatively broad estuary section), the second was at the distal ebb delta (ebb tide dominated and narrow estuary section), and the third was over the wave exposed proximal ebb delta (wave/flood tidal current combined flows and open sea). The aim of this study is to evaluate the applicability of the Rouse (1937) theory for the distribution of sand in suspension throughout a turbulent benthic boundary layer. A modified version of a Helley–Smith sampler was used to trap sand and measure the vertical distribution of sand in the water column. As well, a 1200 ADCP was used to measure flow velocity and backscatter together with an ADV (turbulence). The sand traps were found to have a sampling efficiency of 44%. The grain size at all stations was finer near the surface and coarser near the bed. The sand transport inside the estuary (Station 1) is inwards dominant. By contrast, the sand concentration during the ebb tide was ten times higher than during the flood tide at Station 2 and even higher at Station 3, which suggests that the sand transport over the ebb delta is seawards. The average Rouse parameters for Stations 1, 2, and 3 are 0.48±0.035, 0.78±0.23, and 0.46±0.06 respectively, which correspond to a coefficient of proportionality of the movability number, (χ) of 4 (Van Rijn, 1993). These differ from previous findings of Villatoro et al. (2010) and Amos et al. (2010b). [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract: For over two decades, coastal marine scientists studying boundary layer sediment transport processes have been using, and developing, the application of sound for high temporal–spatial resolution measurements of suspended particle size and concentration profiles. To extract the suspended sediment parameters from the acoustic data requires an understanding of the interaction of sound with a suspension of sediments and an inversion methodology. This understanding is distributed around journals in a number of scientific fields and there is no single article that succinctly draws together the different components. In the present work the aim is to provide an overview on the acoustic approach to measuring suspended sediment parameters and assess its application in the study of non-cohesive inorganic suspended sediment transport processes. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Typhoon Mangkhut, in 2018, was one of the worst typhoons in recent history that has made landfall in the Pearl River Estuary (PRE) China. It swept along the coast of Guangdong Province, causing severe damage to many areas and affecting more than one million people. To study the hydrodynamics and sediment dynamics in different sub-regions of the PRE during the typhoon, we implemented a 3D wave-current-sediment coupled ocean model based on the Semi-implicit Cross-scale Hydroscience Integrated System Model (SCHISM). A series of numerical experiments were conducted to study the variation in suspended sediment concentration (SSC) under different external forcing mechanisms, including tides, waves, river discharges and strong winds. Moderate Resolution Imaging Spectroradiometer (MODIS) images, collected after the typhoon landed, were used to assess the simulation results. We found that in the area where the water depth was shallower than 20 m, the increased total suspended sediment concentration was dominated by the regional erosion of fine sediment which was caused by near-bottom wave orbital velocity and bottom shear stress, especially at the four western outlets and along the western coast of the PRE. For the deeper coastal zone, at depths between 20 and 30 m offshore of the western coast, the high total SSC resulted from the contribution of fine sediment transported from the upper and middle estuaries by southwestward advection. A small amount of sand eroded and migrated locally, owing to the corresponding increase in the bottom shear stress. The variation in SSC during the typhoon had a time lag compared with other dynamic conditions, resulting in a maximum 1 h delayed response after the typhoon made landfall. Based on the results of the sensitivity experiments under the same typhoon conditions, we found that, as a result of wave-enhanced bottom shear stress, the SSC values associated with wave-current interaction were significantly higher, by as much as 1.5 and 1.3 times those of simulations without the waves at the surface and near-bottom layers, respectively. This indicated that the sediment resuspension induced by waves was important during typhoon landfall. However, the strong wind-induced current was weakened owing to the joint effect of wave radiation stress and enhanced bottom stress; thus, considering wave effects, the magnitude of the resulting sediment transport rate was smaller than that without considering wave effects, especially in shallow waters. During the approach, landfall and retreat of Typhoon Mangkhut, Lingding Bay experienced two transitions from a slight state of sediment loss to a relatively high state of sediment gain, followed by an even greater state of sediment loss. During an M 2 tidal cycle after Typhoon Mangkhut made landfall, the net seaward suspended load sediment transport in Lingding Bay reached 0.37 megatonnes. For the typhoon period covering three M 2 tidal cycles, the overall state of suspended load sediment transport in Lingding Bay was sediment loss, with the magnitude of sediment loss on the west side being larger than that of sediment gain on the east side. The magnitude of the overall sediment loss in Lingding Bay would be enlarged unrealistically by approximately 73% if the wave effects were excluded. In each period, the extent of sediment transport between the two sides of the bay was strengthened by the wave-current interaction under typhoon conditions. We determined that the net effect of wave-current interaction and strong wind-induced currents under typhoon conditions was a key factor for erosion, which resulted in SSC-influenced areas being approximately 8.7 and 4.4 times as large as those under normal weather conditions for the surface and near-bottom layers, respectively. The turbidity maximum moved from the West Shoal of Lingding Bay under normal weather to the Modaomen Estuary, which was the most affected area during the typhoon when wave effects were considered. We also showed that the relative location of the typhoon path with respect to the estuary had a more significant effect on erosion than the intensity of the typhoon. ● A 3D wave-current-sediment coupled ocean model was set up and validated to simulate sediment transport during Typhoon Mangkhut. ● Waves were primarily responsible for resuspension of both fine sediment and sand during the event. ● Strong wind-induced currents were weakened owing to the joint effect of wave radiation stress and enhanced bottom stress. ● Turbidity maximum moved westward along the path of the typhoon. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract: Intermittent features of turbulence and sediment suspension were investigated in a large-scale laboratory flume, under erosive and accretive conditions with measured free surface elevation, fluid velocity, and sediment concentration across the surf zone. Intermittent events of turbulence and sediment suspension occurred for a small portion of the time series but contained a significant amount of motions in these events. Comparison of intermittency statistics with previous studies conducted under different experimental conditions showed similar results, indicating that intermittency is a general aspect of turbulence and sediment suspension in the surf zone, including the bar crest, the bar trough, and the inner surf zone. The relationship of these intermittent turbulence and suspension events was examined with conditional probabilities. Here, it was found that only 20–35% of the turbulent events were associated with sediment suspension events, implying that much of the intermittent turbulent motion may act to dissipate wave energy rather than suspend sediments. On the other hand, 50–65% of the sediment suspension events were associated with turbulent events, implying that intermittent turbulent motion is one of the fundamental mechanisms for the initiation of sediment suspension in the surf zone. The sediment suspension events that were uncorrelated with turbulent events were mostly induced by strong offshore low-frequency motion, suggesting that advection plays a key role. The vertical structures of intermittency showed that the fraction of intermittent events for both turbulence and sediment concentration were vertically uniform and quantitatively similar each other, although their thresholds varied vertically. The motion contained in the intermittent suspension events increased toward the bed, while it was vertically uniform in the intermittent turbulent events. Finally, it was found that the intermittent sediment suspension events play an important role in each bathymetric change. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: In the last five years, horizontal acoustic Doppler current profilers have come onto the market as an instrument designed to measure real-time horizontal current profiles from a permanent fixed mount. The focus of this paper is on the feasibility of using these commercial instruments to measure suspended sediment fluxes in rivers. Measurements are presented from a study site that was equipped with an optical turbidity meter and three horizontal ADCPs operating at 300kHz, 600kHz and 1200kHz between November 2009 and June 2010. Laser grain size measurements showed the primary particles of the suspended sediment to be predominantly silts with some clay and occasionally some fine sand. Measurements of sediment attenuation by the three horizontal ADCPs are presented for two high concentration events during which concentrations reached 2.5 and 8kg/m3, respectively. Very clear linear relationships are seen between sediment attenuation and particle concentration and the sediment attenuation is consistent with the theory for viscous absorption by fine sediments. Using the relationship between attenuation and concentration, we are able to reconstruct the concentration time series for events during which the turbidity data are unavailable. Our findings show that, when properly positioned, horizontal ADCPs can provide suitable measurements of sediment transport during extreme river flow conditions such as floods, at least for predominantly silt-sized particles. This ability is of primary interest for river survey applications since the long term sediment transfer is believed to be driven by these intense events. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: This work presents a detailed analysis of suspended sediment concentration measured in the inner surf and swash zone under large-scale wave flume conditions. Controlled hydrodynamic conditions tested in the laboratory corresponded to highly energetic (erosive) conditions. Hydrodynamic, bottom evolution and suspended sediment concentration (SSC) data were acquired at several locations within the inner surf and the swash zone. A limited number of hydrodynamic type of events have been identified to induce important suspended sediment concentrations. These hydrodynamic conditions include incident broken wave, wave capture, weak and strong wave backwash interactions or pure backwash events. The acquired data showed the variability of the suspended sediment concentration pattern depending on the cross-shore location from which measurements were taken. This suspension mechanism also varied depending on the time series characteristic. There was a clear predominance of incident wave/bore as a forcing term in the surf zone, whilst the SSC measured in the swash zone showed that wave-swash interaction controls the most significant events. Finally, the importance of a wave-by-wave analysis is highlighted in this study. It was observed that despite the fact that most of the time series induce profile accretion in the mid and upper swash area, only one or two swash events are able to erode extensive parts of the beach and change the final output of the entire time record from accretion to erosion. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: In this study, sediment rating curves are employed to study the variations in relationships between water discharge and suspended sediment concentration based on the recent 50 years of monthly data set in the three major rivers of the Pearl River Delta. Results show that sediment rating parameters vary with time. The lowest rating coefficient, , and the highest rating exponent, b, mostly occur in the 1980s, indicating that sediment transport reached its peak in this decade at the same level as water discharge. This upward shift of sediment load is probably caused by exacerbated karst rocky desertification in the upper reaches of the Pearl River. However, since the beginning of the 1990s sediment loads from the Pearl River to its estuary began to show a dramatically decreasing trend, which is attributed mainly to deposition in the reservoirs, leading to an increase of and a decrease of b. Furthermore, the sediment rating curve in 1957 to1970 is applied to estimate potential sediment load (1971 to 2006) in the absence of human influences. It is also estimated quantitatively by the sediment rating curves that in the 1980s, the annual sediment load decreased by 7.59×106 t/yr because of natural factors, while sediment increase induced by human activities was 20.07×106 t/yr, which resulted in an actual increased sediment load of 12.47×106 t/yr compared with the reference level in 1957 to 1970. In the last two decades, the difference between measured and estimated sediment loads became considerable, and the annual deficit sharply increased to 26.80×106 t/yr in the 1990s, and 50.46×106 t/yr in the 2000s, indicating that human activities, mainly referring to dam and reservoir construction, play a dominant role in the decrease of sediment load. The decrease in sediment supply from the Pearl River should be paid special attention because it may cause serious impacts on the river delta and the coastal ocean. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: In coastal and estuarine waters, depth-averaged suspended sediment concentration (DASSC) at a fixed observation site has two sources: local resuspension and advection along a horizontal gradient. The empirical decomposition method can separate the horizontal residual suspended sediment flux (HRF) into several terms, e.g., Eulerian flux, Stokes'' drift and tidal pumping. A simple depth-averaged 1D model is solved analytically for an observational site over one semi-diurnal tidal cycle to explore the determinants of the forcing factors comprising residual, M2 and M4 current velocities, mean water depth, M2 tidal amplitude and the DASSC gradient. The analytical solutions provide clear physical explanations of tidal DASSC variations and HRF. The solutions are applied to fit and explain the observations at a fixed station in a macro-tidal channel located along the Jiangsu Coast, China. The results suggest a dependence of the M4 DASSC variation on resuspension induced by the M2 velocity, and the dependence of the M2 DASSC variation on the advection and resuspension induced by the interaction between the M2 and M4 velocities. The horizontal DASSC gradient results in large seaward tidal pumping, which is offset by the landward Lagrangian flux to produce a reduced landward HRF. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: Appropriate descriptions of turbulence are important in predicting sediment transport and seabed evolution. We use here a three-dimensional model to investigate the impacts of sediment-induced stratification, erosion parameterization, and turbulence closures on sediment transport and morphological simulations. The model is implemented in the Proudman Oceanographic Laboratory Coastal Ocean Modelling System (POLCOMS), which couples a hydrodynamic model to the General Ocean Turbulence Model (GOTM) and to a sediment transport model. This sediment transport model calculates both suspended sediment concentrations and bed evolution. A large number of turbulence closures can be tested and we focus on the methods used to calculate the turbulent length scale and the stability functions. Different modelling scenarios are assessed against experimental data of velocity profiles, suspended sediment concentrations, and trench migration in a laboratory flume. Numerical results show that the processes investigated have little impact on the flow velocity profiles, in spite of some differences on the bed shear stress. The only exception is the one-equation turbulence closure, which cannot reproduce velocity profiles appropriately. Sediment-induced stratification, erosion parameterization, and turbulence closures can all have significant impacts on the suspended sediment concentration and the bed evolution. Model-data comparisons are found to be particularly sensitive to the method used to calculate the turbulent length scale. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: Long-term, net offshore bar migration is a common occurrence on many multiple-barred beaches. The first stage of the process involves the generation of a longshore bar close to the shoreline that oscillates about a mean position for some time, followed by a stage of net offshore migration across the upper shoreface, and finally a stage of decaying bar form through loss of sediment volume at the outer boundary of the upper shoreface. The phenomenon has been previously documented in the Netherlands, the USA, the Canadian Great Lakes, and in New Zealand, but our present understanding of the morphodynamic processes and sediment transport pathways involved in bar decay is limited. In this paper, long-term, net offshore bar migration is investigated at Vejers Beach, located on the North Sea coast of Denmark where offshore bar migration rates are of the order of 45–55ma−1. A wave height transformation model confirmed that the decay of the outer bar results in increased wave heights and undertow speeds at the more landward bar potentially causing this bar to speed up its offshore migration. The causes for outer bar decay were investigated through field measurements of sediment transport at the decaying bar and at a position further seaward on the lower shoreface. The measurements showed that a cross-shore transport convergence exists between the bar and the lower shoreface and that the loss of sediment involved in bar decay is associated with a longshore directed transport by non-surf zone processes. At Vejers, and possibly elsewhere, the net offshore migration of bars and the subsequent loss of sand during bar decay is an important part of the beach and shoreface sediment budget. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract: The source and transport mechanisms of land-derived Okinawa Trough sediments were studied using the field data of temperature, salinity and turbidity in the East China Seas. The results suggest that there are two primary sediments sources from the Chinese Mainland to the Okinawa Trough: one is the Old Huanghe River submarine delta, and the other is the Changjiang River sediments, which are distributed at the Changjiang River estuary and the off-coast of Zhejiang and Fujian provinces. It is difficult for the Huanghe River suspended sediments to arrive in the Okinawa Trough via the new estuary. Although the Taiwan warm current blocks the seaward terrigenous transportation to a certain extent, part of the coastal suspended sediments are transported to the outer shelf. Suspended particulate matter is unable to get through the barrier of the Kuroshio Current under normal conditions. However, episodic events, such as winter storms, internal-tidal waves and turbidity flows, are capable of transporting suspended particulate matter into the Okinawa Trough. The super typhoon “Ewiniar” induced strong waves and influenced the thermocline depth and suspended sediment concentration of the East China Seas. The typhoon-induced waves pushed the thermocline depth down to around 40m and caused the resuspension of large volumes of sediments in its path. In the other East China Seas regions, the typhoon-induced swells deepened the thermocline depth by about 5m and increased suspended sediment concentrations. The typhoon effect on suspended sediment concentration of the East China Seas disappeared within 2 weeks. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: The Markham River is a small river draining a tropical mountain range with altitudes between 1000 and 3000m and discharges directly into a submarine canyon, the head of which is at 30m depth and reaches depths of 500m only 4km from the shore. As such, the Markham discharge system serves as a possible analogue for rivers discharging onto margins during low stands of sea-level. Located in a tectonically active area and with high rainfall, sediment supply is high and episodic and is sometimes related to catastrophic mountain landslides. The river has an estimated sediment load of 12Mtyr−1. Occasionally, high energy flows are generated at the river mouth which is evident from the channel morphology and sediment distribution. Profiles of salinity and suspended sediment concentrations (SSC) show that sediment is dispersed via a plume with components at both the surface, intermediate depth along isopycnal surfaces and near the sea bed. The dispersal pattern of the surface freshwater plume is largely determined by the buoyancy force. The surface plume is very thin with salinity gradients 15pptm−1 while a Richardson number greater than unity suggested that the mixing zone is highly stratified. Estimates of the horizontal sediment flux gradient of the surface plume along the estuary axis suggest that about 80% of the sediment discharged is lost from the plume within a distance of 2km from the river mouth. Particle fall velocities estimated from the vertical flux indicate values less than those of flocculated material. Layers of sediment with SSCs between 500 and 1000mgl−1 were observed at intermediate depths and near the seabed during periods of both high and intermediate discharge. The mass of sediment in a SSC layer at intermediate depths between 150 and 250m within the canyon channel was estimated to be equivalent to an average of 2 to 3 days of Markham sediment discharge. SSCs near the seabed of between 250 and 750mgl−1 suggest that layers of significantly elevated density exist near the seabed, moving under the influence of gravity down steep seabed slopes of the Markham canyon. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: To describe the exchange of water and sediment through the Venice Lagoon inlets a 3-D hydrodynamic and sediment transport model has been developed and applied to a domain comprising Venice Lagoon and a part of the Adriatic Sea. The model has been validated for both current velocities and suspended particle concentration against direct observations and from observations empirically derived fluxes from upward-looking acoustic Doppler current profiler probes installed inside each inlet. The model provides estimates of the suspended sediment transport in the lower 3m of the water column that is not detected by acoustic Doppler current profiler sensors. The bedload model prediction has been validated against measured sand transport rates collected by sand traps deployed in the Lido and Chioggia inlets. Results indicate that, in the Lido inlet, 87% of the total load is in suspension, while the rest moves as bedload. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Pollen and spores of terrestrial plants found in marine sediments are excellent proxies for paleovegetation and paleoclimate reconstructions of surrounding areas. Ascertaining the pollen transport mechanism from terrestrial to oceanic environments is crucial for the interpretation of pollen data from marine sediments. In this study, we present the distribution of suspended sediments and pollen from 59 surface ocean water samples collected during September and October of 2013, in the northern South China Sea (SCS). The results suggest that there is a difference between the transmission mechanisms of suspended sediment and pollen/spores. Suspended sediment (silt, coarse sand, and gravel) settle quickly in nearshore and continental shelf waters due to their density. Alternately, small, light-weight pollen grains can be carried over long distances in a marine setting. The density of suspended sediment has a high correlation with the concentrations of Pinus , evergreen Quercus , Poaceae and Cyperaceae pollen as well as fern spores (e.g., Dicranopteris), but no correlation with total pollen concentration. This finding will broaden the understanding of the relationships between suspended sediments and pollen in the northern SCS and help to better interpret pollen records extracted from marine sediment cores from the SCS. • 59 sea surface water pollen samples in the northern South China Sea were investigated. • Close relationship between the densities of suspended sediment and the percentages of Pinus , evergreen Quercus , Poaceae and Cyperaceae pollen and spores. • Relatively low values of Pinus , Podocarpus and the evergreen Quercus pollen seem to be correlated with the flowering season. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract: One-dimensional vertical and three-dimensional fine-resolution numerical models of sediment transport have been developed and applied to the Torres Strait region of northern Australia. The one-dimensional model, driven by measured waves and currents, was calibrated against measured suspended sediment concentrations using a sequential data assimilation algorithm. The algorithm produced a good match between model and data, but this was achieved only by allowing some temporal variability in parameter values, suggesting that there were underlying uncertainties in the model structure and forcing data. Implications of the assimilation results to the accuracy of the numerical modelling are discussed and the need for observational programmes having an extensive spatial and temporal coverage is highlighted. The three-dimensional sediment model, driven by modelled waves and currents, simulates sediment transport over the shelf during the monsoon and trade-wind seasons covering 1997–2000. The model predicts strong seasonal variability of the sediment transport on the shelf attributed to seasonally varying hydrodynamics, and illustrates significant inter-annual variability of the sediment fluxes driven by extreme events. The developed model provides a platform for testing scientific hypothesis. With additional calibration, including uncertainty analysis, it can also be used in a management context. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: Widespread seagrass dieback in central Torres Strait, Australia has been anecdotally linked to the delivery of vast quantities of terrigenous sediments from New Guinea. The composition and distribution, and sedimentological and geochemical properties, of seabed and suspended sediments in north and central Torres Strait have been determined to investigate this issue. In northern Torres Strait, next to Saibai Island, seabed sediments comprise poorly sorted, muddy, mixed calcareous–siliciclastic sand. Seabed sediments in this region are dominated by aluminosilicate (terrigenous) phases. In central Torres Strait, next to Turnagain Island, seabed and suspended sediments comprise moderately sorted coarse to medium carbonate sand. Seabed sediments in this region are dominated by carbonate and magnesium (marine) phases. Mean Cu/Al ratios for seabed sediments next to Saibai Island are 0.01, and are similar to those found in New Guinea south coastal sediments by previous workers. Mean Cu/Al ratios for seabed sediments next to Turnagain Island are 0.02, indicating an enrichment of Cu in central Torres Strait. This enrichment comes from an exogenous biogenic source, principally from foraminifers and molluscs. We could not uniquely trace terrigenous sediments from New Guinea to Turnagain Island in central Torres Strait. If sediments are a factor in the widespread seagrass dieback in central Torres Strait, then our data suggest these are marine-derived sediments sourced from resuspension and advection from the immediate shelf areas and not terrigenous sediments dispersed from New Guinea rivers. This finding is consistent with outputs from recently developed regional hydrodynamic and sediment transport models. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: In situ observations were combined with 3D modeling to gain understanding of and to quantify the suspended sediment transport in the Gulf of Lions (NW Mediterranean Sea). The outputs of a hydrodynamic–sediment transport coupled model were compared to near-bottom current and suspended sediment concentration measurements collected at the head of seven submarine canyons and at a shallow shelf site, over a 6-month period (November 2003–May 2004). The comparisons provide a reasonable validation of the model that reproduces the observed spatial and time variations. The study period was marked by an unusual occurrence of marine storms and high river inputs. The major water and sediment discharges were supplied by the Rhone, the largest Mediterranean river, during an exceptional flood accompanying a severe marine storm in early December 2003. A second major storm, with moderate flooding, occurred in February 2004. The estimate of river input during the studied period was 5.9Mt. Our study reveals (i) that most of the particulate matter delivered by the Rhone was entrapped on the prodelta, and (ii) that marine storms played a crucial role on the sediment dispersal on the shelf and the off-shelf export. The marine storms occurring in early December 2003 and late February 2004 resuspended a very large amount of shelf sediment (>8Mt). Erosion was controlled by waves on the inner shelf and by energetic currents on the outer shelf. Sediment deposition took place in the middle part of the shelf, between 50 and 100m depth. Resuspended sediments and river-borne particles were transported to the southwestern end of the shelf by a cyclonic circulation induced by these onshore winds and exported towards the Catalan shelf and into the Cap de Creus Canyon which incises the slope close to the shore. Export taking place mostly during marine storms was estimated to reach 9.1Mt during the study period. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: A 1-year survey of sediment dynamics on the Têt inner-shelf in the south-western part of the Gulf of Lions was conducted as part of the EUROSTRATAFORM program (European Margin Strata Formation) from October 2004 to November 2005. Several bottom instruments (ADCP, wave gauge and altimeters) were deployed at 28m water depth on the Têt prodelta to measure forcing responsible for sediment erosion and transport on the inner-shelf. The survey period was characterized by low inputs from the coastal rivers and the absence of severe E–SE marine storms, but intense cold dense shelf water formation along the inner-shelf due to strong and persistent N–NW continental winds. The strong (>20cm/s) and prolonged (4 months) southwards alongshore currents during the preconditioning and formation phases of dense shelf water generated continuous sediment erosion of several centimetres on the Têt prodelta and significant suspended-sediment transport. Hydrodynamical modelling shows that the core of the flow predominantly affects the inner-shelf, but occasionally spreads over the mid-shelf mud belt and the outer-shelf, due to the variable intensity of the NW wind (Tramontane). The impact of this N–NW wind-driven process in terms of resuspension rates and suspended-sediment transport clearly differs from that of extreme E–SE storms observed during the previous winter at the same site [Guillén, J., Bourrin, F., Palanques, A., Durrieu de Madron, X., Puig, P., Buscail, R., 2006. Sediment dynamics during wet and dry storm events on the Têt inner shelf (SW Gulf of Lions). Marine Geology 234 (1–4), 129–142.]. Bottom shear stresses and resuspension rates due to strong dense shelf water flow peaked at 0.7–1Pa and 0.3–0.4g/m2/s, respectively, while they reached values of 6–9Pa and 1.6–1.8g/m2/s, respectively, during the strong E–SE storms events. However, due to differing durations, both led to significant (few centimetres) erosion of the inner-shelf sediment. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: Shelf-to-canyon suspended sediment transport during major storms was studied at the southwestern end of the Gulf of Lions. Waves, near-bottom currents, temperature and water turbidity were measured on the inner shelf at 28-m water depth and in the Cap de Creus submarine canyon head at 300m depth from November 2003 to March 2004. Two major storm events producing waves H s>6m coming from the E–SE sector took place, the first on 3–4 December 2003 (max H s: 8.4m) and the second on 20–22 February 2004 (max H s: 7m). During these events, shelf water flowed downcanyon producing strong near-bottom currents on the canyon head due to storm-induced downwelling, which was enhanced by dense shelf water cascading in February 2004. These processes generated different pulses of downcanyon suspended sediment transport. During the peak of both storms, the highest waves and the increasing near-bottom currents resuspended sediment on the canyon head and the adjacent outer shelf causing the first downcanyon sediment transport pulses. The December event ended just after these first pulses, when the induced downwelling finished suddenly due to restoration of shelf water stratification. This event was too short to allow the sediment resuspended on the shallow shelf to reach the canyon head. In contrast, the February event, reinforced by dense shelf water cascading, was long enough to transfer resuspended sediment from shallow shelf areas to the canyon head in two different pulses at the end of the event. The downcanyon transport during these last two pulses was one order of magnitude higher than those during the December event and during the first pulses of the February event and accounted for more than half of the total downcanyon sediment transport during the fall 2003 and winter 2004 period. Major storm events, especially during winter vertical mixing periods, produce major episodes of shelf-to-canyon sediment transport at the southwestern end of the Gulf of Lions. Hydrographic structure and storm duration are important factors controlling off-shelf sediment transport during these events. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: Wave-induced, steep vortex ripples are ubiquitous features in shallow coastal seas and it is therefore important to fully understand and model the sediment transport processes that occur over them. To this end, two two-dimensional vertical (2DV) models have been critically tested against detailed velocity and sediment concentration measurements above mobile ripples in regular asymmetric oscillatory flow. The two models are a k–ω turbulence-closure model and a discrete-vortex, particle-tracking (DVPT) model, while the data are obtained in the Aberdeen oscillatory flow tunnel (AOFT). The models and the data demonstrate that the time-dependent velocity and suspended sediment concentration above the ripple are dominated by the generation of lee-side vortices and their subsequent ejection at flow reversal. The DVPT model predicts the positions and strengths of the vortices reasonably well, but tends to overpredict the velocity close to the ripple surface. The k–ω model, on the other hand, underpredicts the height to which the vortices are lifted, but is better able to predict the velocity close to the bed. In terms of the cycle- and ripple-averaged horizontal velocity, both models are able to reproduce the observed offshore flow close to and below the ripple crest and the DVPT model is able to produce the onshore flow higher up. In the vicinity of the vortices, the DVPT model better represents the concentration (because of its better prediction of vorticity). The k–ω model, on the other hand, better represents the concentration close to the ripple surface and higher up in the flow (because of the better representation of the near-bed flow and background turbulence). The measured and predicted cycle- and ripple-averaged suspended sediment concentrations are in reasonable agreement and demonstrate the expected region of exponential decay. The models are able to reproduce the observed offshore cycle- and ripple-averaged suspended sediment flux from the ripple troughs upwards, and as a result, produce net offshore suspended sediment transport rates that are in reasonable agreement. The net measured offshore suspended transport rate, based on the integration of fluxes, was found to be consistent with the total net offshore transport measured in the tunnel as a whole once the onshore transport resulting from ripple migration was taken into account, as would be expected. This demonstrates the importance of models being able to predict ripple-migration rates. However, at present neither of the models is able to do so. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: The utilisation of sound backscattered from sediments in suspension, to measure profiles of near-bed particle size and concentration, has been gaining increasing acceptance and usage by sedimentologists and coastal engineers over the past two decades. To obtain the sediment parameters from the backscattered signal requires an inversion to be conducted on the signal and this necessitates a system calibration. The calibration can be carried out by detailed acoustic and electronic measurements, or alternatively by measuring the backscattering from suspensions with known scattering characteristics. Here, we explore the latter approach and describe in some detail the calibration of a triple frequency acoustic backscatter system. The aim is to provide coastal scientists involved in using acoustics as a tool for sediment transport research, with a clear exposition of the calibration process. Suspensions of glass spheres of varying particle size were used as the calibration scatterers. To interpret the signal backscatter from the suspension of glass spheres a simple model for sphere scattering is presented. The results show that consistent calibration results can be obtained in a relatively simple and robust manner. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: Multi-frequency acoustics backscattering has been used for over a decade, to quantitatively measure profiles of suspended sediment particle size and concentration, in the bottom 1–2m above the seabed. Central to obtaining the sediment parameters from the backscattered signal is a description of the scattering characteristics of the particles in suspension. Therefore, formulations are required for the attenuation and backscattering properties of the suspended particles with size and acoustic frequency. There is no single formulation for these scattering properties and different researchers have used somewhat different expressions. However, these expressions are all based on a variation of sphere scattering, modified to fit available scattering data. Here we bring together all the published data on acoustic backscattering and attenuation by suspensions of sandy sediments. The aim is to provide coastal scientists, who use acoustics for sediment transport measurements, with simple expressions which best represent the observed scattering properties of sandy sediments. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: This paper describes the details of a quasi-three-dimensional model (3DBANK), which has been developed to investigate medium and long-term morphological evolution and development of offshore sandbanks. The model is based on a three-dimensional tidal module using the Galerkin-eigenfunction method, but also includes four sub-modules to compute: the instantaneous bedform characteristics from which the temporal and spatial variations of the shear stresses at the sea bed can be derived; the suspended sediment concentration through the water column; the bed-load and suspended sediment fluxes at a point-in-plan; and the resulting morphological changes, respectively. The model also includes the effects of the wind and waves at the sea surface, as well as the wave–current interaction (WCI), and operates with full hydrodynamic and morphodynamic interaction. The components of the model were tested against laboratory and field data, and the complete model was then applied to Middlekerke Bank off the Flemish coast where extensive field measurements were taken during the European Community (EC) funded Circulation and Sediment Transport Around Banks (CSTAB) Project using various advanced instrumentation including STABLE and HF OSCR. Comparisons of the model results with the field measurements and observations show that the model is capable of reproducing the current and wave-induced bedforms, bed roughness, tidal currents and tidal residuals around the sandbank satisfactorily, and can be used to study the long-term sandbank evolution under various offshore conditions. This paper, however, focuses on the hydrodynamic aspects of the model, while the details of the morphological components will be given in a companion paper. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: The in situ records of a cruise in September 1995 off the Huanghe mouth and laboratory measurements indicate that the shear front off the river mouth results from the phase difference between the nearshore and offshore tides and plays significant role in the river-laden sediment dispersal. Two types of shear front, identified from the behaviors of currents inside and outside the shear front, alternate over tidal cycle, each of which lasts for ∼2–3h. The dispersal patterns of suspended sediment at the stations inside and outside the shear front are distinctly different from each other. In addition, the gravity-driven hyperpycnal flow generated near the mouth is terminated within shallow water due to the barrier effect of shear front. A dispersal pattern of river-laden suspended sediment in the shear frontal zone is proposed to interpret the difference of sediment transport inside and outside the shear front. The fresh and highly turbid river effluents discharge to the sea during ebb tides and are transported northwestwards inside the shear front under the combined impacts of northward ebb currents, down-slope transport of hyperpycnal flow and confining action of shear front; after partially mixing with the ambient seawater the river effluents are then transported southeastwards outside the shear front along the flood currents, causing the intermittent increase in suspended sediment concentration and corresponding decrease in salinity outside the shear front. Over annual time scale the subaqueous slope has a geomorphological response to the ephemeral shear front. Most of the river-laden sediment deposit inside the shear front with a high accumulation rate, while erosion is dominant outside the shear front due to the lack of sediment supply. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: Since their development for investigating sand transport in the surf zone more than 25 years ago, optical backscatter sensors (OBSs) have been in continual use for a wide variety of scientific, engineering, and environmental-monitoring applications. Many OBS designs have evolved in that time but they all work in the same simple way. A water sample is illuminated by a light source and photodetectors in the sensor convert the light scattered from the sample to photocurrent. The amount of photocurrent depends mainly on the illuminated area of the particles, and because particle volume is proportional to area, the photocurrent provides an indirect estimate of suspended-sediment concentration. The relationship between OBS signal and sediment concentration is almost linear for many suspended sediments and this is the most important “good” feature for OBS users. Many other factors influence OBS measurements, including: (1) particle size, shape, composition, and aggregation/flocculation; (2) dissolved light-absorbing matter; (3) bubbles; and (4) chemical and biological fouling. Some of these factors can be troublesome and can result in poor data quality or ambiguous results; these are “bad” ones. And a few of the same factors can have truly “ugly” consequences when their effects are ignored. Unknown time variation in particle size or aggregation/flocculation and fouling will nearly always result in inaccurate OBSs data. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: A 5-yr data set of near-bed current and suspended-sediment concentration measured within 2m of the seabed in 60-m water depth has been analyzed to evaluate the interannual variability of physical processes and sediment transport events on the Eel River continental shelf, northern California. This data set encompasses a wide range of shelf conditions with winter events characterized as: Major Flood (1996/97), strong El Niño (1997/98), strong La Niña (1998/99), and Major Storm (1999/00). Data were collected at a site located 25km north of the Eel River mouth, on the landward edge of the mid-shelf mud deposit. During the winter months sediment resuspension is forced primarily by near-bed oscillatory flows, and sediment transport occurs both as suspended load and as gravity-driven (fluid-mud) flows. Winter conditions that caused periods of increased sediment transport existed on average for 142dyr−1 over the total record, ranging between 89d in the Major Flood year (1996/97) and 171d in the La Niña year (1998/99). Hourly averaged values of significant wave height varied between 0.5 and 10.7m and hourly averaged values of near-bed orbital velocities ranged between 0 and 125cms−1. During the five winters, sediment threshold conditions were exceeded an average of 35% of the time, ranging from 19% in the Major Flood year (1996/97) to 52% in the La Niña year (1998/99). Mean concentration of suspended sediment, measured at 30cmab, ranged from values close to 0–8gl−1. Among winters, major sediment flux events exhibited different patterns due to varying combinations of physical processes including river floods, waves, and shelf circulation. Within winters, the major period of sediment flux varied from a 3-d fluid mud event (Major Flood winter) to a 50-d period of persistent southerlies (El Niño winter) and a winter of continuous storm cycles (La Niña winter). Winter-averaged suspended-sediment concentration appeared to vary in response to river discharge, while total sediment flux responded to storm intensity. The net sediment flux appeared to depend on timing of river discharge and shelf conditions. On the Eel River shelf, the mid-shelf mud deposit apparently is not emplaced by deposition from the river plume, but by secondary processes from the inner shelf including off-shelf transport of sediment suspensions and gravity-driven fluid-mud flows. Thus, these inner-shelf processes redistribute sediment supplied by the Eel River (a point source) making the inner shelf a line source of sediment that forms and nourishes the mid-shelf deposit. Large-scale shelf circulation patterns and interannual variability of the physical forcing are also important in determining the locus of the mid-shelf deposit, and both are influenced by climate variations. Post-depositional alteration of the deposit also depends on the subsequent shelf conditions following major floods. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: The boundary layer flow and the net sediment transport beneath asymmetrical waves have been examined by a turbulence boundary layer model in conjunction with a diffusion model for suspended sediments based on the linearized boundary layer equations with horizontally uniform forcing. The turbulence closure is provided by a high Reynolds number k–ε model. The flow model and sediment transport model have been verified against existing laboratory measurements for sheet flow conditions. Overall, these comparisons show that the mean (wave-averaged) velocity profile, sediment flux and total sediment transport (including mean bedload transport) are well predicted by the present model. A further investigation of the boundary layer structure shows the mechanisms causing the near-bed backflow (opposing the drift direction of the outer wave velocity). The effect of roughness and asymmetry on the mean boundary layer flow and sediment transport beneath asymmetrical waves have been investigated. The wave friction factor, the mean bedload transport and the mean velocity profiles are given for a wide range of near-bed wave excursion to bed roughness ratios. Moreover, for asymmetrical waves with the same mean drift velocity, but with different asymmetry, the wave with strongest asymmetry induces the largest mean sediment transport. This demonstrates the importance of wave asymmetry. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: The Red River, annually transporting 100 million tons of sediment, flows into a shallow shelf sea where it rapidly deposits most of its sediment on a prograding delta front. Oceanographic cruises were carried out in February–March and July–August 2000 to determine the vertical structure of the Ba Lat river plume and sediment transport patterns on the delta front. The surface waters in the coastal zone were strongly stratified with a low density and high sediment concentration during the larger part of the wet season, caused by low mixing rates of river plumes with ambient water. The river plume is advected to the south by a well-developed coastal current which originates from the river plumes that enter the Gulf of Tonkin North of the Ba Lat and are deflected southward by the Coriolis force. Sediment predominantly leaves the surface plume by settling from suspension and less by mixing of fresh and marine water. A one-dimensional model for plume deposition valid for fair weather conditions indicates that most sediment is deposited within 10km and southward of the river mouth. Of prime importance for this depositional pattern is the phase relation between river outflow and tidal currents, in combination with the southward surface flow; alongshore advection is very low during outflow of the turbid river plume. The agreement of modeled plume sedimentation patterns with long-term bathymetric changes strongly suggests that fair weather depositional processes determine delta front development. This may be related to the fact that reworking of sediment mainly occurs several months after the peak deposition period; in the meantime sediment compaction and consolidation have increased the shear strength of deposited sediments. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: A series of sand bed experiments was carried out in the Large Wave Flume in Hannover, Germany as a component of the SISTEX99 experiment. The experiments focussed on the dynamic sediment response due to wave group forcing over a flat sand bed in order to improve understanding of cross-shore sediment transport mechanisms and determine sediment concentrations, fluxes and net transport rates under these conditions. Sediment concentrations were measured within the sheet flow layer (thickness in the order of 10 grain diameters) and in the suspension region (thickness in the order of centimetres). Within the sheet flow layer, the concentrations are highly coherent with the instantaneous near-bed velocities due to each wave within the wave group. However, in the suspension layer concentrations respond much more slowly to changes in near-bed velocity. At several centimetres above the bed, the suspended sediment concentrations vary on the time scale of the wave group, with a time delay relative to the peak wave within the wave group. The thickness of the sheet flow changes with time. It is strongly coherent with the wave forcing, and is not influenced by the history or sequence of the waves within the group. The velocity of the sediment was also measured within the sheet flow layer some of the time (during the larger wave crests of the group), and the velocity of the fluid was measured at several cm above the sheet flow layer. The grain velocity and concentration estimates can be combined to estimate the sediment flux. The estimates were found to be consistent with previous measurements under monochromatic waves. Under these conditions, without any significant mean current, the sediment flux within the sheet flow layer was found to greatly exceed the sediment flux in the suspension layer. As a result, net transport rates under wave groups are similar to those under monochromatic waves. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]