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Sediment transport over Sandy Point dredge pit in the northern Gulf of Mexico during a cold front event in November 2014 was examined using a finely resolved numerical model. The Delft3D model was used to perform numerical experiments that simulate the effect of wind-generated waves, wind-driven currents, river discharge, and tides on sediment dynamics in Sandy Point dredge pit. The hydrodynamics and sediment models were validated and calibrated using field data of current, wave, water level, and suspended sediment concentration. Two potential sources of sediment were examined: fluvial sediment from the Mississippi River and resuspended sediments from the seabed. Results showed that during a cold front, shear stress from wave motions played a significant role in the resuspension of sediments in Sandy Point dredge pit. The maximum cold front-related wave impact on sediment resuspension could increase near-bed sediment concentration in Sandy Point dredge pit by 20–50 times. In addition, the results suggest that the primary source of sediment for Sandy Point dredge pit during a cold front was resuspension from the ambient seabed due to increased bottom shear stress by wind-induced waves and strong southward wind-driven currents. Currents dispersed sediments from the Mississippi River passes and inhibited riverine sediment supply from Sandy Point dredge pit. Results also showed that cold fronts contribute 16%–24% of the annual sedimentation in Sandy Point dredge pit. • A coupled wave-current-sediment model was used to study the sandy dredged pit. • The combined effect of waves and currents on sedimentation was assessed. • The reverse bottom current inside the pit was identified. • Bottom boundary layer was significantly affected by waves. • Sediment accumulation occurs mostly on the north of the pit. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract: The Minas Basin, the eastern end of the Bay of Fundy, is well known for its high tide ranges and strong tidal currents, which can be exploited to extract electricity power. The properties of the tidally-induced sediment transport in the Minas Basin, where significant changes in tidal processes may occur due to a recently proposed tidal power project, have been studied with a three-dimensional hydrodynamic model, an empirical bed load sediment transport model and surface sediment concentrations derived from the remotely-sensed images. The hydrodynamic model was evaluated against independent observational data, which include tidal elevation, tidal current (in the full water column and bottom layer), residual current profile and tidal asymmetry indicators. The evaluation shows that the model is in good agreement with the observations. The sediment transport includes two components, bed load and suspended particulate load. The bed load is calculated using the modelled bottom shear stress and the observed grain size data. The estimated features of bed load transport roughly agree with the observed patterns of the erosion and deposition in the Minas Basin and Cobequid Bay. The transport of the suspended load is estimated using the modelled velocity fields and the surface sediment concentration derived from remote-sensing images. The comparisons between the modelled results and the limited observations illustrate that the observed directions of suspended sediment transport are basically reproduced by the model. The modelled net suspended sediment input into the Minas Basin through Minas Passage is 2.4×106 m3 yr−1, which is comparable to the observed value of 1.6×106 m3 yr−1. The variations of the bed load and the suspended load in space and time are also presented. The total net transport, defined as the mean value of the sum of bed and suspended load transports during the tidal cycle, shows strong spatial variability. The magnitude of the transport flux ranges from 0.1 to 0.2kgm−1 s−1 in Minas Channel and Minas Passage, 0.1kgm−1 s−1 in Cobequid Bay, to 0.01kgm−1 s−1 in the central Minas Basin and Southern Bight. In Minas Channel, the sediment transport follows the structure of the tidal residual circulation, which features a large anticlockwise gyre. The sediment in Minas Passage moves eastward and deposits into the central Minas Basin. However, the sediment from the eastern part of the Basin moves westward and deposits in the central Minas Basin as well. In the Cobequid Bay, sediment moves eastward and deposits in the upper bay. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: Appropriate descriptions of turbulence are important in predicting sediment transport and seabed evolution. We use here a three-dimensional model to investigate the impacts of sediment-induced stratification, erosion parameterization, and turbulence closures on sediment transport and morphological simulations. The model is implemented in the Proudman Oceanographic Laboratory Coastal Ocean Modelling System (POLCOMS), which couples a hydrodynamic model to the General Ocean Turbulence Model (GOTM) and to a sediment transport model. This sediment transport model calculates both suspended sediment concentrations and bed evolution. A large number of turbulence closures can be tested and we focus on the methods used to calculate the turbulent length scale and the stability functions. Different modelling scenarios are assessed against experimental data of velocity profiles, suspended sediment concentrations, and trench migration in a laboratory flume. Numerical results show that the processes investigated have little impact on the flow velocity profiles, in spite of some differences on the bed shear stress. The only exception is the one-equation turbulence closure, which cannot reproduce velocity profiles appropriately. Sediment-induced stratification, erosion parameterization, and turbulence closures can all have significant impacts on the suspended sediment concentration and the bed evolution. Model-data comparisons are found to be particularly sensitive to the method used to calculate the turbulent length scale. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Ripples and small-scale bedforms are ubiquitous in shallow water environments under the combined action of currents and waves. Small scale processes linked to their formation and migration are interconnected with sediment transport at larger scales (e.g. tens of metres to kilometres), both resulting in and being affected by large scale sediment transport and geomorphological evolution. The lower shoreface provides a key link between coasts and continental shelves, but the contribution of ripples and small-scale bedforms to sediment transport in this region has yet to be fully addressed. This work presents a study of sediment dynamic processes on the lower shoreface in the presence of small-scale bedforms. Observations were made during the winter of 2017 on the lower shoreface of Perranporth Beach, which is in the south west of the UK and exposed to Atlantic waves. The analysis of morphological expressions and the variability of ripples under waves, currents and wave-current conditions are assessed. Ripple morphology and associated dynamics are analysed for their potential contribution to the exchange of sediment between the lower and the upper shoreface. In the present study it was observed that even though ripples were evolving depending on the wave-current forcing, little ripple migration was observed due to low wave skewness. The implication is that ripple migration and bedload transport are only a small contribution to onshore sediment transport under low to moderate energy conditions. However, during more energetic conditions, ripples were washed out and the wave skewness increased, resulting in onshore sediment transport under a sheet flow regime. This suggests that ripple formation and migration can have little impact on the cross-shore supply of sediment from the lower shoreface to the upper shoreface and that more energetic wave conditions are required to significantly transport sediment towards the beach. • High-resolution observations on the seabed reveal 2D and 3D wave vortex ripples in a macrotidal sandy lower shoreface. • The morphological ripple transitions provide assessment of sediment transport regime thresholds. • The hypothesis of ross-shore sediment supplied from the lower to the upper shoreface through ripple migration is not supported. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract: Geological studies offshore of Wrightsville Beach, North Carolina reveal subtle large-scale regions of coarse sand with gravel and shell hash (widths between 100 and 200m and negative relief of ∼1m) that trend obliquely to the coast. It was previously suggested that these regions serve as conduits for sand exchange between the shoreface and inner shelf during storm-associated downwelling. Consequently they were classified as rippled scour depressions. More recently, the role of alongshore flows and self-organization as a result of inhibited settling of fine sand has been discussed. In this study, 45 days of near-bed current measurements were analyzed using benthic boundary layer and sediment transport models to examine the role of along- and cross-shore flows in driving sediment transport at this site. The wind climate was found to be a dominant influence on near-bed flows. Six distinct sediment transport events were recognized. During these events, sediment transport models show that bedload transport is directed mainly in the cross-shore direction, while suspended sediments are directed alongshore to the southwest. Current observations during these sediment transport events provide no evidence of cross-shore sediment transport caused by steady downwelling currents. Instead, benthic boundary layer model results are used to show that differences in bed roughness between the coarse areas of the seabed within the “rippled scour depressions” and the finer areas of the inner shelf are more pronounced during increasingly energetic wave and current conditions. The enhanced difference in roughness results in increased turbulence intensities over coarse regions inhibiting the deposition of the fine sand that is resuspended over the shelf during these events relative to finer areas over the shelf. Findings from this study contribute to explaining the observed long-term persistence of these features. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Past major changes in sea level have had a significant influence on global- and shelf sea tidal dynamics. Some of these changes are preserved in sedimentary records from the shelf seas, and so appropriate proxy data have the potential to constrain tidal model outputs over the recent geological past. Tidal models which simulate the evolution of tide-dependent parameters over geological timescales are fundamental to understanding the response of the tides to sea-level rise and climate change. This study explores a potential new sedimentary proxy for validating past shelf sea tidal dynamics, interrogating the relationship between tidally-modulated bed shear stress and seabed sediment grain size at discrete sediment core locations over the northwest European shelf seas. Radiocarbon-dated sediment grain size profiles were generated for four British Geological Survey UK shelf sediment vibrocores, spanning a range of physical environments. Changes in observed sediment grain size through time were compared with simulated changes in tidal-induced bed shear through time, using temporal and spatial outputs from the most recently developed palaeotidal model of the Northwest European shelf seas. Although a positive correlation between observed grain size and simulated bed shear stress was observed at three of the four sediment cores sites, no robust relationship could be quantified. The palaeotidal model output failed to resolve the details of the actual sediment dynamics, since only tidal-induced bed shear stresses were considered. Wave processes were neglected, and the model was not sensitive enough to constrain simulated past tidal conditions at point locations; rather it is suitable for examining general trends. There remains a need to develop new proxies for past shelf sea hydrodynamic conditions which can be used to constrain numerical model output of tidal currents at regional scales. • We explore a new proxy for validating models of past shelf sea tidal dynamics. • Age-constrained seabed sediment data for 5 marine cores for NW Europe presented. • Evolutions of median grain size compared with simulated tidal-induced bed stress. • General trends in sediment grain size and simulated bed shear stress were observed. • The tidal model did not fully resolve the intricacies of observed sediment dynamics. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract: Tidal flats with fluvial input can have ample fine-grained sediment supply, and yet the Skagit River tidal flats remain mostly sandy. Therefore, hydrodynamic mechanisms must efficiently export mud off the flats. This study evaluates short-term deposition and long-term burial of mud on an intertidal flat and links seabed deposits to sediment-transport processes. To investigate the fine-grained sediment-transport mechanisms within the sandy Skagit River tidal flats, seabed and water-column observations were collected seasonally from 2008 to 2009 under varying river discharge conditions. Little mud was observed deposited on the seabed. Spatially, mud was most common near channels and on the seaward flat edge. Its presence was temporary, and was typically observed following high river discharge. Strongest current velocities and high suspended-sediment concentrations were measured during spring tidal cycles with peaks in the late ebb. Maximum velocities were observed within channels, permitting for rapid transport of fine-grained particles to the seaward edge of the flat and export beyond. These physical processes also act to mobilize the mostly sandy seabed, which is reworked at various frequencies: on a semi-diurnal tidal timescale, both channel and flat seabeds are reworked to 1–2cm; and over a decadal timescale, lateral channel migration acts to rework the seabed to 1–2m, making the limited mud deposits available for export. Overall, channel networks on sandy tidal flats with fluvial input not only deliver fine-grained sediment to the flat, but also aid in the export of suspended sediment at ebb tides and in the release of muddy deposits through reworking of the seabed. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]