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Abstract The shape of vortex ripples generated by wave boundary layers determines the local hydrodynamics and sediment motions, and therefore is critical for understanding coastal sediment transport in the rippled-bed regime. In this study, coarse-sand vortex ripples were generated by periodic oscillatory flows mimicking full-scale field conditions in an oscillatory water tunnel. A laser-based bottom profiler was applied for measuring the movable bed's profile. The observed ripple development from a flat bed is in agreement with many previous studies. Small ripple marks appeared within a couple of flow periods, and gradually became 3-dimensional (3-D) transient ripples, which eventually evolved to equilibrium 2-dimensional (2-D) ripples after O (100–1000) flow periods. The shape of equilibrium 2-D ripple was studied based on a representative ripple profile obtained by ensemble averaging a periodic ripple train. The shape of ripples formed under sinusoidal flows become increasingly sinusoidal as the flow becomes stronger (larger Shields parameter) or wave period becomes longer, which is possibly because the influence of coherent vortex becomes more significant. Wave nonlinearities have different effects on the ripple shape. Generally speaking, wave skewness makes ripples onshore-leaning while wave asymmetry makes ripples' crests sharper and troughs flatter. Our measurements also revealed some detailed geometric characteristics, i.e., the roundness of ripple crests and the maximum local slope along ripple flanks. Highlights • A full-scale experimental study on the geometry of coarse-sand vortex ripple is conducted in an oscillatory water tunnel. • Ripple development from a flat bed is reported, and the observation is in agreement with previous studies. • Full-scale coarse-sand vortex ripples can be well described by a sinusoidal profile. • Skewed flows make ripples become asymmetric while asymmetric flows make ripples become skewed. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Rising sea levels are expected to cause widespread coastal recession over the course of the next century. In this work, new insight into the response of sandy beaches to sea level rise is obtained through a series of comprehensive experiments using monochromatic and random waves in medium scale laboratory wave flumes. Beach profile development from initially planar profiles, and a 2/3 power law profile, exposed to wave conditions that formed barred or bermed profiles and subsequent profile evolution following rises in water level and the same wave conditions are presented. Experiments assess profile response to a step-change in water level as well as the influence of sediment deposition above the still water level (e.g. overwash). A continuity based profile translation model (PTM) is applied to both idealised and measured shoreface profiles, and is used to predict overwash and deposition volumes above the shoreline. Quantitative agreement with the Bruun Rule (and variants of it) is found for measured shoreline recession for both barred and bermed beach profiles. There is some variability between the profiles at equilibrium at the two different water levels. Under these idealised conditions, deviations between the original Bruun Rule, the modification by Rosati et al. (2013) and the PTM model predictions are of the order of 15% and all these model predictions are within ±30% of the observed shoreline recession. Measurements of the recession of individual contour responses, such as the shoreline, may be subject to local profile variability; therefore, a measure of the mean recession of the profile is also obtained by averaging the recession of discrete contours throughout the active profile. The mean recession only requires conservation of volume, not conservation of profile shape, to be consistent with the Bruun Rule concept, and is found to be in better agreement with all three model predictions than the recession measured at the shoreline. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Results are presented from a combined experimental and numerical study aimed at comparing the flocculation behaviour of purely-cohesive (clay) and mixed (sand-clay) sediment suspensions under equivalent controlled hydrodynamic conditions. The experiments were conducted in a grid-stirred settling column and focussed on measuring the parametric influences of grid-generated shear rate and local suspended sediment concentrations on the time-evolution of the micro- and macrofloc size distributions generated in the column, as well as representative maximal and root-mean-square floc sizes. The results indicate that for kaolin clay suspensions under low-medium shear rates, initial aggregation rates and the peak or quasi-equilibrium floc sizes attained increase with the clay input concentration; this latter effect due to the larger proportion of macroflocs generated within these runs. By contrast, under high shear rates, representative floc sizes for kaolin clay suspensions remain largely unchanged over the experimental duration, with little influence from clay input or in-situ concentrations, and no macroflocs present in the resulting floc size distributions. The addition of the fine sand fraction to the kaolin clay suspensions is shown to reduce both initial aggregation rates and the representative floc sizes attained in the column for runs under low-medium shear rates, whilst having negligible effect on the flocculation behaviour for the sand-clay mixtures under high shear rates. These results suggest that the sand fraction inhibits flocculation at lower shear rates due to an additional floc break-up mechanism resulting from direct sand-clay interactions (e.g. particle-floc collisions). The importance of these inter-fractional (sand-clay) interactions diminishes, in comparison to shear-induced floc break-up, under higher shear conditions. A one dimensional vertical (1DV) model incorporating a population balance equation (PBE) that includes new representation of these multi-fractional (sand-clay) collisions is applied to simulate the kaolin clay and sand-clay settling column tests. In general, the 1DV PBE model predictions provide good agreement with the measured in-situ concentrations and quasi-equilibrium floc sizes attained, but under-predict floc sizes during the initial aggregation phase due to uncertainty with the upper boundary condition in the 1DV model domain. Furthermore, the reliance of the 1DV PBE model predictions on empirical floc break-up rates associated with shear-induced floc fragmentation and multi-fractional (sand-clay) collisions warrants further attention to better define the microscale dynamics of these processes for their improved representation in the PBE model. It is anticipated that this multi-fractional approach represents an improved basis for modelling flocculation processes within natural sedimentary environments, such as estuaries and tidal inlets, where bed sediments often consist of interacting cohesive (i.e. muds) and non-cohesive (i.e. silts, sands) fractions. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The salt marshes of Jamaica Bay serve as a recreational outlet for New York City residents, mitigate wave impacts during coastal storms, and provide habitat for critical wildlife species. Hurricanes have been recognized as one of the critical drivers of coastal wetland morphology due to their effects on hydrodynamics and sediment transport, deposition, and erosion processes. In this study, the Delft3D modeling suite was utilized to examine the effects of Hurricane Sandy (2012) on salt marsh morphology in Jamaica Bay. Observed marsh elevation change and accretion from rod Surface Elevation Tables and feldspar Marker Horizons (SET-MH) and hydrodynamic measurements during Hurricane Sandy were used to calibrate and validate the wind-waves-surge-sediment transport-morphology coupled model. The model results agreed well with in situ field measurements. The validated model was then used to detect salt marsh morphological change due to Sandy across Jamaica Bay. Model results indicate that the island-wide morphological changes in the bay's salt marshes due to Sandy were in the range of −30 mm (erosion) to +15 mm (deposition), and spatially complex and heterogeneous. The storm generated paired deposition and erosion patches at local scales. Salt marshes inside the west section of the bay showed erosion overall while marshes inside the east section showed deposition from Sandy. The net sediment amount that Sandy brought into the bay is only about 1% of the total amount of reworked sediment within the bay during the storm. Numerical experiments show that waves and vegetation played a critical role in sediment transport and associated wetland morphological change in Jamaica Bay. Furthermore, without the protection of vegetation, the marsh islands of Jamaica Bay would experience both more erosion and less accretion in coastal storms. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Large perturbations in the coastline, such as the 'Sand Motor' nourishment ( ∼ 21 million m 3 ) at the Holland coast, can initiate considerable spatial and temporal changes in the median grain size ( D 50 ) of the sea bed on the lower shoreface. The relevance of hydrodynamic conditions for the development of the heterogeneity in D 50 at large-scale nourishments was assessed with a numerical model (Delft3D), which required a validation against 2.5 years of D 50 measurements. A good representation of the observed spatial pattern of D 50 was obtained independent of a 2DH or 3D approach and initial condition for the D 50 of the bed. Five sediment size fractions and a multi-layer administration of the bed composition were used. The extent and magnitude of the coarsening of the bed is related to the velocity of the horizontal tide, while a far less pronounced coarsening takes place during energetic conditions (i.e. H m 0 ≥ 3 m). Differential suspension behaviour between the size fractions, which are all mobilized at the bed, causes a preferential transport of fine sediment (in alongshore direction) away from the Sand Motor at the lower shoreface (i.e. seaward of MSL -6 m). Storm conditions may induce a partial removal of the coarse top-layer due to mobilization of all of the size fractions and mixing with the relatively fine substrate material. Simulations also show that transport of the fine sand fraction extents to much deeper water than for the medium and coarse sand fractions. Models with multiple sediment fractions are therefore required for the assessment of environmental impacts of large-scale coastal structures or land reclamation's and sediment transport on the lower shoreface. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The interplay between wave nonlinearity and mud-induced dissipation is studied here using wave and sediment transport measurements collected in winter 2008, on the Atchafalaya Shelf, Louisiana, between the 8-m and the 4-m isobaths. This study focuses on the relatively energetic storm that occurred on March 4th (2-m wave height in 8-m water depth), which caused significant bed reworking and left in its wake a 20-cm layer of hindered-settling fluid mud. While the net wave dissipation rate was maximal during the hindered-settling phase after the storm, consistent with previous observations, significant dissipation was observed throughout the storm duration, with a secondary maximum associated with the peak of the storm and the maximum bed-reworking effects. The effects of mud-induced dissipation on the nonlinear shoaling process are investigated here using TRIADS, a newly-developed spectral model for nonlinear shoaling of waves. With mud-parameter values estimated using a crude inverse modeling approach, the model was used to separate the effects of mud-induced dissipation from nonlinear transfers, during both the erosion and deposition phases of bed reworking. Numerical simulations show that nonlinear transfers are always active, even under strong dissipation regimes. Remarkably, they also suggest that heavy mud-induced dissipation causes the nonlinear energy cascade to revert direction, with bulk transfers occurring from high-frequency to low-frequency spectral bands. This supports the hypothesis that the interplay between mud-induced dissipation, which is much more significant than the bottom dissipation over sandy beds, and wave nonlinearity can drain energy from the entire spectrum, and not just from the frequency bands that interact directly with the seafloor. The decay of high-frequency variance induced by the reversal of spectral flux in effect reduces the nonlinearity of the wave field. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A detailed understanding of the behaviour of waves in the nearshore is essential for coastal engineers as these waves cause beach erosion, coastal flooding and damage to coastal structures. Significantly, the influence of reflected waves is often neglected in surf zone studies, although they are known to influence wave properties and circulation in the nearshore. In this paper, a phase-resolving model is rigorously applied to model conditions from the prototype-scale BARDEXII experiment in order to examine and assess the influence of swash-based reflection on surf zone hydrodynamics at both the individual wave and time-averaged timescales. Surface elevation is separated into incoming and outgoing signals using the Radon Transform and a crest tracking algorithm is used to extract incident and reflected wave properties. It is found that on steep beaches (tanβ>1:9) the swash-based reflection - the reflection generated in the swash during the backwash - contributes significantly to the intrawave variability of individual wave properties such as the wave height to water depth ratio γ, through the generation of quasi-nodes/antinodes system. For γ expressed with individual wave heights, variations up to 25% and 40% are obtained for the modelled regular and irregular wave tests, whereas it reaches 15% when it is based on the significant wave height. The outgoing wave field-induced hydrodynamics is also found to affect time-averaged parameters: undertow and horizontal velocity skewness. The undertow is mainly strengthened, particularly in the shoaling region where the outgoing component dominates over the contribution from the incoming wave field. Offshore of the bar, an onshore-directed flow streaming close to the bed is also generated under the outgoing wave field, and is suspected to help in stabilising the bar position. This, along with the influence of the outgoing wave field on the horizontal velocity skewness and the presence of quasi-standing waves, suggests a complex contribution of the hydrodynamics induced by swash-based reflection into sediment transport rates and nearshore bar generation/migration. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Mean (wave-averaged) cross-shore flow in the surfzone has a strong vertical variation. Good understanding and prediction of this mean velocity profile is of crucial importance, as it determines the advective transport of constituents, such as sediment, and consequently the coastal morphological evolution. Most modeling systems for coastal hydrodynamics and morphodynamics do no resolve the wave motion, and wave-current coupling is a challenging topic. This paper investigates stresses and forces that control mean surfzone hydrodynamics based on detailed wave flume velocity measurements above a fixed sloping bed including two breaker bars. The data show that the vertical distribution of normal stress below the wave trough level is fairly uniform. At the same time, the data suggest that a significant part is concentrated between the wave trough and crest level. Furthermore, it is concluded that the horizontal radiation stress gradients and the vertical shear stress gradients can be of the same order of magnitude in the vicinity of the breaker bar. Although usually ignored in 3D mean flow modeling systems, the wave Reynolds stress makes an important contribution to the mean shear stress. The normal stress below the wave trough level could be reasonably well predicted using the classical [16] expression, accounting for the contribution between wave crest and trough. The model of [39] reproduces the main trends in the wave Reynolds stresses above the bottom boundary layer. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Long-term decadal-scale shoreline change is an important parameter for quantifying the stability of coastal systems. The decadal-scale coastal change is controlled by processes that occur on short time scales (such as storms) and long-term processes (such as prevailing waves). The ability to predict decadal-scale shoreline change is not well established and the fundamental physical processes controlling this change are not well understood. Here we investigate the processes that create large-scale long-term shoreline change along the Outer Banks of North Carolina, an uninterrupted 60 km stretch of coastline, using both observations and a numerical modeling approach. Shoreline positions for a 24-yr period were derived from aerial photographs of the Outer Banks. Analysis of the shoreline position data showed that, although variable, the shoreline eroded an average of 1.5 m/yr throughout this period. The modeling approach uses a three-dimensional hydrodynamics-based numerical model coupled to a spectral wave model and simulates the full 24-yr time period on a spatial grid running on a short (second scale) time-step to compute the sediment transport patterns. The observations and the model results show similar magnitudes (O(10 5 m 3 /yr)) and patterns of alongshore sediment fluxes. Both the observed and the modeled alongshore sediment transport rates have more rapid changes at the north of our section due to continuously curving coastline, and possible effects of alongshore variations in shelf bathymetry. The southern section with a relatively uniform orientation, on the other hand, has less rapid transport rate changes. Alongshore gradients of the modeled sediment fluxes are translated into shoreline change rates that have agreement in some locations but vary in others. Differences between observations and model results are potentially influenced by geologic framework processes not included in the model. Both the observations and the model results show higher rates of erosion (∼−1 m/yr) averaged over the northern half of the section as compared to the southern half where the observed and modeled averaged net shoreline changes are smaller (<0.1 m/yr). The model indicates accretion in some shallow embayments, whereas observations indicate erosion in these locations. Further analysis identifies that the magnitude of net alongshore sediment transport is strongly dominated by events associated with high wave energy. However, both big- and small- wave events cause shoreline change of the same order of magnitude because it is the gradients in transport, not the magnitude, that are controlling shoreline change. Results also indicate that alongshore momentum is not a simple balance between wave breaking and bottom stress, but also includes processes of horizontal vortex force, horizontal advection and pressure gradient that contribute to long-term alongshore sediment transport. As a comparison to a more simple approach, an empirical formulation for alongshore sediment transport is used. The empirical estimates capture the effect of the breaking term in the hydrodynamics-based model, however, other processes that are accounted for in the hydrodynamics-based model improve the agreement with the observed alongshore sediment transport. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Follet's Island (FI) is a sediment-starved barrier island located on the Upper Texas Coast; a stretch of coastline along the Gulf of Mexico that experiences on average four hurricanes and four tropical storms per decade. During Hurricane Ike, water levels and wave heights at FI exceeded the 100-year and 40-year return values, respectively, leading to significant overtopping and morphology changes of this low-lying barrier island. The physical processes governing the real-time morphodynamic response of the beach and dune system during 96 h of hurricane impact were modeled using XBeach (2D) and CSHORE (1D). Hydrodynamic boundary conditions were obtained from ADCIRC/SWAN model runs validated with measured buoy and wave gauge data while LiDAR surveys provided pre- and post-storm measured topography. XBeach displayed a decent model skill of 0.34 and provided numerical outputs of the entire 2D domain such as topography, suspended sediment load and bed load which was very useful in visualizing erosion and deposition patterns. CSHORE also displayed a decent model skill of 0.33 and was able to accurately predict the post-storm beach slope and shoreline, but was less effective at simulating the foredune morphology. Modeling results show that the complete morphodynamic response of FI to Hurricane Ike was governed by a sequence of impact regimes, including swash, collision, overwash, inundation, and storm surge ebb. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Extensive research efforts in the last decade have improved knowledge of swash-zone processes. This paper reviews and synthesizes from 2004 onward the research advances of small-scale hydrodynamics and sediment transport processes considering field, laboratory and numerical modeling efforts. Swash-zone hydrodynamics are examined by means of shoreline motions, fluid velocities, pressure gradients, flow structure, bed shear stress, friction coefficients and turbulence. Subsequently, advances related to sediment transport mechanisms and morphological changes are described. Detailed descriptions of measuring techniques, novel findings, and the strengths and weaknesses of the different approaches are discussed. The review also acknowledges the major advances in the development of instrumentation to collect highly resolved flow and sediment concentration measurements in direct proximity of the bed and the experimental framework for analyzing local dynamics on a wave-by-wave time scale (e.g., dam break). [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In the swash zone, an assessment of swash flow properties requires an understanding of swash depth and swash velocity, which can affect sediment movement, as well as the design of coastal structures. The method of characteristics provides a useful tool to model unsteady shallow water flows, such as dam-break flow, swash flow and tsunami run-up. In this paper, bottom resistance was incorporated into the nonlinear shallow water equations to extend the application of the method of characteristics to account for frictional effects in the swash zone. The new characteristic equations are solved by the specified time interval scheme. The bottom resistance has little influence on the seaward swash hydrodynamics (initial swash stage), e.g., water depth and flow velocity, while its influence becomes significant in the small water depth region near the swash front, which reduces the maximum run-up height. At a specified time and location, and comparing with a frictionless swash solution, the uprush flow velocity reduces due to the bottom resistance, while the flow velocity increases during the initial phase of the backwash owing to the earlier reversal time with the bottom resistance. However, the differences with the inviscid solution are small within the swash lens. Conversely, the maximum backwash velocity is reduced significantly as a result of the shorter duration of the backwash. Consistent with previous field observations, friction does not significantly alter the gradient of the water surface elevation and a seaward-dipping water surface elevation is observed during the majority of the swash process. The dominant effect of bottom resistance is to reduce the range of inundation, particularly with larger resistance coefficients. The incorporation of the bottom resistance extends the application of method of characteristics in the swash zone to more practical problems, particularly where run-up elevation is critically important, e.g. overtopping flows. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Overwash is an important process that controls short-term barrier dynamics, as well as long-term barrier migration, but this process is difficult to study in the field due to its rare occurrence and the challenging conditions under which it occurs. This paper uses data collected during the BARDEX II experiment in the Delta Flume, the Netherlands, where a proto-type barrier was subjected to a range of wave and water level conditions. The objectives of this research are to: (1) compare the morphologic response to overwash on a gravel barrier (BARDEX 2008 experiment) with that on a sandy barrier (BARDEX II); (2) understand the influence of wave period on overwash characteristics and sediment transport; and (3) improve current knowledge of overwash hydrodynamics. The comparative analysis shows that barrier overwash can be affected by negative feedback that stabilises the barrier through barrier crest accretion on gravel barriers, and by submerged bar development on sandy barriers. An increase in the wave period induced a reduction in overwash frequency over the crest, but no significant relation was found between wave peak period and overwash discharge. Nevertheless, overall water discharge during an overwash episode significantly correlates with overall overwash sediment transport rate. Overwash flow depths during the experiment were relatively shallow and velocities were similar compared to those measured during previous studies and reported in the literature. Despite the controlled laboratory conditions, collection of reliable and accurate measurements of overwash velocities remains challenging. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The paper reports on dambreak-type swash experiments in which intra-swash hydrodynamics and sediment flux are measured for swash on a coarse sand beach and a gravel beach. Flow velocity and depth are measured using PIV and LIF respectively; the intra-swash sediment flux is measured using sediment traps. Comparison of measured hydrodynamics with the immobile, permeable bed experiments of Kikkert et al. (2013) indicates that bed mobility impacts on the swash hydrodynamics, reducing the maximum run-up by approximately 8% for both beaches, compared to the maximum run-up on the corresponding immobile beach. The measured intra swash sediment flux at a given location is characterised by high flux at the moment of bore arrival, followed by rapid decay during uprush, becoming zero at some time before flow reversal. For the gravel beach, the backwash sediment flux is negligibly small, while for the sand beach the backwash flux increases slowly as the flow accelerates down the beach, and peaks at about the time of maximum backwash velocity. Intra-swash sediment flux calculated using the Meyer-Peter and Müller bed load transport formula, with measured hydrodynamics as input and bed shear stress estimated using both the Swart and Colebrook formulae, is within a factor 2 of the measured intra-swash flux. The agreement between the calculated and measured flux is better for the sand beach than for the gravel beach, and better for uprush than for backwash. For the sand beach there is good agreement between calculated and measured total uprush and total backwash sediment volumes. The agreement is less good for the gravel beach, for which calculated and measured uprush volumes show a similar trend but the calculated backwash volumes over-estimate the (negligible) volumes observed in the experiments. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Experimental measurements are obtained to investigate the detailed hydrodynamics of wave–wave interactions in the swash-zone. Two bores are generated using a double dam-break mechanism and interact on a 1:10 impermeable rough slope. Measurements of the hydrodynamics are obtained via acoustic displacement sensors and a combined particle image velocimetry and laser induced fluorescent system. Two types of interactions are investigated: wave capture, with the second bore reaching the first one during the uprush, and weak wave–backwash interactions when interaction happens during the backwash of the first wave. The relative strength of the bores at the initial shoreline and time between their arrivals determines the initial type of interaction, however the type as well as the intensity of the interaction may vary throughout the swash-zone for the same swash event. During wave capture and weak wave–backwash interactions, the fluid of the first bore is advected upwards, then mixed with the fluid of the second bore by intense shearing and highly turbulent vortices generated at the front of the second bore because of the relative velocity differences between the two bores. The details of the hydrodynamics during interaction confirm the potential of swash–swash interactions to suspend sediment and transport it shoreward or interrupt seaward sediment transport. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The Bay of Fundy in eastern Canada has the world's largest tidal range of over 16 m with tidal currents up to 5 ms − 1 making it an ideal place for tidal power extraction using tidal in-stream energy conversion devices in the Minas Passage. Field observations collected from ship-based and bottom-moored sensors over an 8-day period in 2013 are used to validate a 3D hydrodynamic and sediment transport model of the Minas Basin with measurements of water levels, current profiles, waves, suspended sediment fluxes and suspended sediment concentration (SSC) profiles. The sediment conditions are initialized using a bi-modal sediment distribution map and the model simulates both cohesive and non-cohesive sediments in the Minas Basin. Model results for fine-grained suspended sediment concentrations are compared horizontally, vertically, and temporally to observations and indicate strong data-model agreement for SSC from 5 to 287 mg L − 1 . The implications of constructing a large-scale turbine farm within the Minas Passage and the impacts on suspended sediment within the Minas Basin are investigated using the model. The farm is simulated by adding semi-permeable structures that use an energy loss term in the fluid momentum equations to parameterize turbine regions in the hydrodynamic model. The results emphasize the sensitivity of the system to changes in flow and suggest that a large-scale tidal energy farm that extracts maximum power could reduce SSC by 37% on average across the basin which would influence physical and biological processes particularly on the fine-grained intertidal areas around the macrotidal basin. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Detailed measurements of bed level motions and sheet flow processes in the lower swash are presented. The measurements are obtained during a large-scale wave flume experiment focusing on swash zone sediment transport induced by bichromatic waves. A new instrument (CCM + ) provides detailed phase-averaged measurements of sheet flow concentrations, particle velocities, and bed level evolution during a complete swash cycle. The bed at the lower swash location shows a clear pattern of rapid erosion during the early uprush and progressive accretion during the middle backwash phase. Sheet flow occurs during the early uprush and mid and late backwash phases. Sheet flow sediment fluxes during these instances are highest in the pick-up layer. Sediment entrainment from the pick-up layer occurs not only during instances of high horizontal shear velocities but also in occurrence of wave–backwash interactions. As opposed to oscillatory sheet flow, the pivot point elevation of the sheet flow layer is time-varying during a swash event. Moreover, the upper sheet flow layer concentrations do not mirror the concentrations in the pick-up layer. Both differences suggest that in the lower swash zone the dynamics of the upper sheet flow layer are not only controlled by vertical sediment exchange (such as in oscillatory sheet flows) but are strongly affected by horizontal advection processes induced by the non-uniformity of the flow. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Field measurements of hydrodynamics, suspended sediment transport rates and bedform sediment transport rates were made in the intertidal section of a dissipative sandy beach (D50 = 0.26 mm, slope = 1/80) at Perranporth (UK). Pressure transducers, acoustic Doppler velocimeters, optical backscatter sensors and an acoustic sand ripple profiler were deployed for 12 tides, measuring in a range of wave heights from 0.5 to 2.2 m, water depths from 1 to 6 m, and in current strengths up to 0.4 m/s. Data were analysed in terms of the distance to shore (x) normalised by the surf zone width (xs), and spanned the region 0.4 < x/xs < 3. Bedform heights up to 30 cm and wavelengths 0.5 to 2.7 m were recorded. Maximum wavelengths were observed just shoreward of the breakpoint. Bedforms were classified as sub-orbital, vortex ripples. Bedform migration was mostly onshore directed, and correlated with positive (onshore) wave skewness. Migration rates increased through the shoaling zone to a maximum of 1.5 cm/min just shoreward of the breakpoint (x/xs = 0.8). The bedform component of sediment transport was generally onshore directed, and maximum just shoreward of the breakpoint (0.021 kg/m/s). Point measurements showed that the cross-shore suspended sediment transport 25 cm above the bed was dominated by the mean component, with an offshore directed maximum at x/xs = 0.5. Contributions to onshore transport were only made by the incident wave (gravity band) component. The total depth integrated suspended sediment transport was offshore directed and maximum in the mid surf zone (− 0.16 kg/m/s). The depth integrated suspended sediment transport dominated over the bedform sediment transport in the inner to mid surf zone (x/xs < 0.5) and in the outer shoaling zone (x/xs > 1.5). The fractional contribution of the shoreward directed bedform transport to the total absolute transport was up to 100%, and occurred broadly in the region of the breakpoint (0.5 < x/xs < 1.5). However, spatial averaging in the cross-shore indicated that a more realistic bedform contribution was up to 15% of the transport, with a maximum at x/xs = 0.9. Results from this dissipative beach experiment generally agree with previous findings on intermediate beaches, steep beaches, and offshore sandbars. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In modeling the morphological impact of an offshore dredging pit using a process-based model, the hydrodynamic conditions, often derived from regional scale models and sometimes incomplete measurements, may not be in equilibrium with the initial bathymetry profile before dredging. This lack of equilibrium causes a fast profile adjustment toward an equilibrium, which may bias the model results representing the direct effect of the pit. In this study, a method is described which uses the parallel computing technique and evaluates only the morphological changes due to a single factor, i.e., the dredging of a pit. The hydrodynamics and morphodynamics are assumed to be in equilibrium before initial dredging of the pit. The morphological evolution is computed based on the change of sediment flux due to the presence of the pit. The model can avoid the computational demanding spin-up period necessary to reach equilibrium conditions. In particular the concurrent correction method is efficient for scenario testing with a large amount of morphological settings and hydrodynamic conditions. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Existing numerical models of the swash zone are relatively inflexible in dealing with sediment transport due to a high dependence of the deployed numerical schemes on empirical sediment transport relations. Moreover, these models are usually not well-balanced, meaning they are unable to correctly simulate quiescent flow. Here a well-balanced and flexible morphological model for the swash zone is presented. The nonlinear shallow water equations and the Exner equation are discretized by the shock-capturing finite volume method, in which the numerical flux and the bed slope source term are estimated by a well-balanced version of the SLIC (slope limited centered) scheme that does not depend on empirical sediment transport relations. The satisfaction of the well-balanced property is demonstrated through simulating quiescent coastal flow. The quantitative accuracy of the model in reproducing key parameters (i.e., the notional shoreline position, the swash depth, the flow velocity, the overtopping flow volume, the beach change depth and the sediment transport rate) is shown to be satisfactory through comparisons against analytical solutions, experimental data as well as previous numerical solutions. This work facilitates an improved modeling framework for the swash hydrodynamics and sediment transport. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Turbulence and sediment transport models are incorporated into a three-dimensional hydrodynamics model to investigate the mechanisms of morphologic evolution of scour holes within the Indian River Inlet, Delaware, USA. The inlet bed had eroded slightly since stabilizing the channel walls in late 1930s through 1976. The mean rate of bed erosion roughly doubled as a response to anthropogenic activities within the inlet such as the removal of ~ 80 piles remaining from an old bridge. Severe erosion near the in-water bridge supports and cofferdams for the replacement bridge necessitated channel bed stabilization that along with the remained debris from the removal of old bridge piles enhanced the growth of two deep scour holes on the bayside and oceanside of the bridge cofferdams. Scour hole and channel bed evolution has decreased drastically since 1994. The present investigation suggests that, initially, flow concentration through the cofferdams of the replacement bridge was the main reason for scour hole development. Bed shear stress over the forward-facing slope of the scour hole entrains sediment from the bed and extends the scour hole along the inlet and in the vertical direction. Flow separation within the developed scour holes after channel bed stabilization enhances turbulence and appears to be the dominant mechanism for further scour hole development. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Nearshore submerged structures made of sand-filled geosystems are an interesting use for this type of coastal protection technology. These systems have an advantage over more traditional materials such as concrete units or rock, which is the limited and non-permanent impact on natural coastal processes. On top of that are also some important research achievements and improvements at the level of the materials. However, at more exposed hydraulic conditions under high wave energy its application is still hampered by the lack of knowledge about their performance. This paper describes research results based on a series of laboratory measurements of the hydrodynamic and morphodynamic change produced in the vicinity of submerged nearshore structures. An analysis of the different model outputs produced, with respect to sediment transport, wave reflection and wave-induced pressures, has been made and is discussed throughout the paper. Such a comparative analysis provides insights into the efficiency of each defence scheme in maintaining a beach and in protecting the shoreline. The sand-filled geosystems as nearshore submerged structures proved to be efficient in retarding the offshore movement of sediments and in maintaining the shoreline, even if instabilities due to elements' displacement and local scour have been observed. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A morphodynamic model for weakly dispersive wave and shallow flows in horizontal two-dimensional (H2D) space is proposed. The horizontal density variation and the bottom evolution are incorporated into a fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation including vorticity effects. By coupling the flow equation with the depth-integrated sediment transport equation, morphodynamic simulation is made possible. A fourth-order finite volume method with an approximate Riemann solver is used to solve the governing equations. For the hydrodynamic test under strong wave–current interaction environment, the accuracy of the computed velocity and water surface was verified. For the three typical morphological benchmark tests, such as tsunami, regular wave and dam break flow, good agreement was obtained when proper parameters were provided. Therefore, the proposed morphodynamic model can be a useful tool for a wide range of shallow and wavy flows under dispersive and nonhydrostatic environments associated with wave, current, and sediment interaction. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A coupled wave–current–sediment transport beach profile model is used to simulate cross-shore sandbar evolution on the time scale from days to months comprising both rapid offshore and slow onshore migrations. The discrimination of four modes of sediment transport driven by velocity and acceleration skewness, mean currents and slope effects allows addressing the dominant hydrodynamic processes governing cross-shore sandbar behavior. Acceleration–skewness-induced transport systematically results in a slow onshore sandbar migration together with a slow bar growth. Velocity–skewness-induced transport can drive onshore and offshore bar migrations with substantially larger rates. Mean–current-induced sediment transport systematically drives an offshore bar migration with either bar growth or decay. Slope effects essentially act as a damping term. The water level above the sandbar crest mainly influences the sandbar migration direction, while wave obliquity regulates the magnitude of the migration rates and is crucial to accurately simulate offshore sandbar migration during energetic obliquely incident waves. The inclusion of acceleration skewness is a necessary requirement to accurately reproduce the onshore migration of shallow sandbars. Detailed inter-site comparison of best-fit model parameters shows large differences meaning that free parameters attempt to compensate some mispecifications of the physics in the model. Although this also applies to other existing beach profile models, this suggests that this model needs further improvements including, for instance, the contribution of the injection of breaking wave turbulence onto the bed to sand stirring. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A fully-coupled hydrodynamic/morphodynamic numerical model is presented and utilized for the simulation of wave-induced scour and backfilling processes beneath submarine pipelines. The model is based on solutions to Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes equations, coupled with k − ω turbulence closure, with additional bed and suspended load descriptions forming the basis for sea bed morphology. The morphological evolution is updated continuously, rather than being based e . g . on period- or other time-averaging techniques. Simulations involving wave-induced scour over the range of Keulegan–Carpenter number 5.6 ≤ KC ≤ 30 demonstrate reasonable match with previous experiments, both in terms of the equilibrium scour depth as well as the scour time scale. Wave-induced backfilling processes are additionally studied by subjecting initial conditions taken from scour simulations with larger KC to new wave climates characterized by lower KC values. The simulations considered demonstrate the ability of the model to predict backfilling toward expected equilibrium scour depths based on the new wave climate, in line with experimental expectations. The simulated backfilling process is characterized by two stages: (1) An initial re-distribution phase involving re-organization of sediments in the immediate vicinity of the pipeline, potentially followed by (2) a more lengthy backfilling evolution toward equilibrium scour depth. The simulated backfilling time scales are of the same order of magnitude as in experiments, though the multi-stage process complicates a more systematic characterization. The simulated sequences of scour and backfilling achieved within the present work are estimated to represent temporal durations of up to approximately 12 h at full practical scales. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Modeling hydrodynamics and sediment transport inside a multi-inlet wetland system is a challenging task due to constraints on model efficiency, accuracy and representation of physics, the scarcity of field data for model validation, and more importantly, the availability of high-resolution data sets of channel bathymetry. Lack of field data sets, model assumptions, and limitations often lead to wrong interpretation of the system's nature. To correctly predict the changes in governing hydrodynamics and morphology of shallow wetland environments, it is essential to resolve the channel properties with the best possible accuracy. In this study, we consider the importance of two factors, numerical model grid resolution around channel shorelines, and bathymetry surveys, in improving the interior channel and mudflat hydrodynamics. Channel shoreline element size is observed to be an essential factor in time-varying channel volume estimation. Lower model resolution in channels inside a marsh can provide good agreement with in-situ surface elevation data, even though the channel surface-velocity phase lag, and velocity magnitude and asymmetry are inaccurate. A higher grid resolution at the channel berms and the high-density channel survey help define the time-varying lateral shoaling bathymetry, cross-section area, and bottom friction, and improve the corresponding model skill and tidal wave properties significantly. We have selected Bombay Hook National Wildlife Refuge, a rapidly eroding salt-marsh system in Delaware Bay, to compare model skills for different hypsometric conditions. Model performance is evaluated during two storm conditions; Hurricane Sandy (2012) and Hurricane Joaquin (2015), using tide gauges located on the marsh interior channels. • Poor grid resolution around marsh-channel berm creates artificial channel convergence and inaccurate tidal wave characteristics. • Topo-bathymetry field survey and bias correction improves channel hypsometry and numerical model reliability significantly. • Inaccurate channel bathymetry and inadequate resolution might lead to acceptable surface elevation but poor tidal velocity field. • The conventional grid generation methods based on sparse cross channel surveys is not sufficient for wetland models. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract: The present work analyzes the hydro-morphodynamics characterizing the swash region during the uprush stage. A comparison is illustrated between the sediment transport measured in a series of dam-break experiments and that predicted by the numerical hydro-morphodynamic model of Postacchini et al. (2012). The primary aim is to investigate the differences arising between the weakly coupled or uncoupled model and the measurements, in terms of hydrodynamics, tip celerity and sediment transport. The hydrodynamics are well described by the model and results have been used to calibrate both friction factor and subgrid turbulent viscosity. Comparison of numerically-computed tip celerity with experimental data reveals a fairly good agreement, i.e. a mean error of about 10%, while modeled sediment transport differs by about 40% from the available data. No evident differences are found between results obtained from the coupled and uncoupled model runs (2% for the celerity and 11% for the sediment transport rate at the tip), suggesting that for the specific flow under investigation, at the leading edge of the swash front, hydro-morphological coupling is not an issue of fundamental importance. However, for the special case here of a swash forced by a dam-break, scour occurs at the dam location, and in this case the erosion of the bed is significantly larger in the uncoupled model. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: In Part 2 of this work, the hydrodynamic model described in Part 1 is applied for the simulation of sediment transport and the associated morphological development of breaker bars. The sediment description is split into bed load and suspended load, and like the hydrodynamics the sediment transport is phase-resolved in order to get on- and offshore directed contributions to the sediment transport from phase lags between the suspended sediment and the hydrodynamics. First, the sediment transport over a morphologically fixed bed of a constant slope is considered, and the transport rates are discussed in terms of three dimensionless parameters: the surf similarity parameters (ζ 0) and two variants of Dean's parameter (Ω D and Ω HK ). These cover the ranges ζ 0 ∈[0.08, 1.19], Ω D ∈[1.1, 27.7] and Ω HK ∈[0.01, 0.52]. Secondly, the morphological development of the cross-shore profile is considered, where the initial condition is a profile of constant slope. One reference simulation is discussed in detail and the morphological development due to changes in the hydrodynamic forcing (wave period, wave height, wave irregularity and a net cross-shore current) and in other properties (sediment size and beach slope) is discussed relative to the reference simulation. The coupling between sediment transport rate and morphology is analysed and discussed. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: This paper describes a unique new physical testing facility for studying ocean-structure–seabed interactions, and in particular pipeline on-bottom stability on erodible seabed under hydrodynamic loading. The facility, named the O-tube due to its shape, is a fully enclosed flume in which ambient and storm-induced near-seabed flows are generated by a computer-controlled flow pump. Combined steady and oscillatory flow can be generated by alternating pump flow directions in a controlled manner, and computer control also allows irregular flow to be generated. The design of the O-tube combines the capabilities of a conventional open channel flume (which provides steady current) with a U-tube (which provides oscillatory flow). The facility is designed to physically model severe storm conditions, as well as ambient or tidal flows. When studying pipeline stability on erodible seabed under severe hydrodynamic loading conditions, tests can be performed at a relatively large scale (typically 1/5) for large diameter pipelines (e.g. 40in. gas trunklines) and at full scale for small diameter pipelines (<8in.) to minimize potential scaling effects associated with movable bed model tests. The specifications of the O-tube, a model pipe and an actuator system that supports the model pipe are given in detail. Preliminary model testing results show that the facility has met its design expectations. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Local scour around structures is an important hydraulic phenomenon that involves multiple coupled physical processes, including turbulent flow, sediment transport, and the evolution of erodible bed. This paper presents a new three-dimensional (3D) scour model, ibScourFoam , which is based on an immersed boundary method. This model is capable of dealing with scour around complex structures and thus it paves the way for practical use of 3D scour models. A special wall function has been developed to overcome the non-smoothness problem of wall shear stress in previous immersed boundary methods. Smooth and accurate wall shear is of critical importance for successful simulation of scour. The model was validated against cases reported in the literature and one flume experiment conducted in this work. The validation case of flow and scour around a vertical pile was reproduced well by our model. The flume experiment is for scour around a partially-buried, horizontal cylinder placed on a foundation. The horizontal cylinder is of finite length and the scour is initiated by flow contraction. The model revealed the distinct stages of scour in the experiment. The complex process of undermining and exposure of initially buried cylinder and foundation was captured well by the model. • An open-source three-dimensional (3D) scour model based on an immersed boundary method has been developed. • The model utilizes a new algorithm to produce smooth and accurate wall shear, which is key for sediment transport. • The model can simulate scour around structures with complex geometries under currents, paving the way for practical use of 3D scour modeling. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

An experimental study is presented consisting of swash zone hydrodynamics, sediment transport flux estimates, and bed changes under a single dam-break-driven swash event over a steep (1:7), movable sand bed. The study provides resolved measurements of instantaneous water depths, cross-shore flow velocities, sheet flow and suspended sediment concentrations, and morphological response. An ensemble-averaging over 24 repetitions of the swash event allows convergence in the time-averaged measured swash quantities. The sand bed profile was re-constructed after each run with a re-smoothing procedure that allowed for minimum variations that are within the profiler system accuracy (<0.006 m). High-resolution measurements are employed to reconstruct the spatial-temporal evolution of the flow velocity field. Temporal extrapolation and spatial logarithmic/exponential fits are employed to fill velocity gaps in the measured data for the estimation of instantaneous and depth-integrated sediment flux. The spatial gradients of instantaneous sediment flux indicate that the sheet flow sediment dominates over the suspended load during the most relevant phases for sediment transport. Upon bore arrival and initial uprush, the relative contribution of the sheet flow load is larger than during the backwash phase and is decreasingly dominant onshore. Depth-integrated instantaneous sediment flux and total sediment transport estimates, based on two different approaches, are compared with equivalent total sediment transport estimates obtained from the observed morphological changes and the sediment continuity equation. The close agreement between the various approaches indicates that existing models and empirical estimates for the sheet load concentration profile can be used as first order estimates for sediment transport in the swash zone. Novel laboratory experiments of instantaneous sediment transport flux in the swash zone Suspended and sheet flow contributions estimated across the swash zone Relative contribution of the sheet flow load decreases landward Existing spatial approximations and temporal extrapolation techniques for the estimation of swash zone sediment transport are tested New bench mark data set for testing time-/phase-resolving hydro-morphodynamical swash models [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract: A numerical model coupling the horizontal component of the incompressible Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) equations with two-equation k − ω turbulence closure is presented and used to simulate a variety of turbulent wave boundary layer processes. The hydrodynamic model is additionally coupled with bed and suspended load descriptions, the latter based on an unsteady turbulent-diffusion equation, for simulation of sheet-flow sediment transport processes. In addition to standard features common within such RANS-based approaches, the present model includes: (1) hindered settling velocities at high suspended sediment concentrations, (2) turbulence suppression due to density gradients in the water–sand mixture, (3) boundary layer streaming due to convective terms, and (4) converging–diverging effects due to a sloping bed. The present model therefore provides a framework for simultaneous inclusion of a number of local factors important within cross-shore wave boundary layer and sediment transport dynamics. The hydrodynamic model is validated for both hydraulically smooth and rough conditions, based on wave friction factor diagrams and boundary layer streaming profiles, with the results in excellent agreement with experimental and/or previous numerical work. The sediment transport model is likewise validated against oscillatory tunnel experiments involving both velocity-skewed and acceleration-skewed flows, as well as against measurements beneath real progressive waves. Model capabilities are exploited to investigate the importance of boundary layer streaming effects on sediment transport in selected velocity-skewed conditions. For the medium sand grain conditions considered, the model results suggest that streaming effects can enhance onshore sediment transport rates by as much as a factor of two. Moreover, for fine sand conditions streaming (and related convective) effects are demonstrated to potentially reverse the direction of net transport (i.e. from offshore to onshore) relative that predicted in oscillatory tunnel conditions. The developed model is implemented within the popular Matlab environment, and hence may be attractive for both research and educational purposes. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: The paper describes the results of a numerical and experimental investigation of flow and scour around a half-buried sphere exposed to a steady current. Hot-film bed shear stress and Laser Doppler Anemometer measurements were made with a half sphere mounted on the smooth bed in an open channel. The hydrodynamic model is a 3-D general purpose N–S flow solver. The k-omega SST turbulence model was used for closure. The flow model was used to study the horseshoe vortex and lee-wake vortex flow processes around the sphere. The flow model was coupled with a morphologic model to calculate scour around the half-buried sphere in currents. The morphologic model includes a sediment-transport description, and a description of surface-layer sand slides for bed slopes exceeding the angle of repose. The sediment transport description includes, for the first time, the effect of externally-generated turbulence (induced by the horseshoe-vortex flow and the lee-wake flow processes) on sediment transport. The results show that the scour depth increases and time scale decreases when the effect of externally-generated turbulence is incorporated in the calculations. Empirical expressions representing the numerically obtained data on the equilibrium scour depth and the time scale are presented. The results show that the equilibrium maximum scour depth in the live-bed regime can be approximated by 0.5 D in which D is the sphere diameter. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: Hydrodynamics and sediment transport in the swash zone are unique and very complex phenomena. Acquiring a robust model for predicting sediment motion in the swash zone requires in-depth insight about the behavior of sediment particles in highly asymmetric and turbulent waves that continuingly uprush the beach face and retrieve in backwashes. In order to consider a physical system of the coarse particle motion in the swash zone with a reduced number of external parameters and capture some of the realism of the situation, the experiments are conducted in rather simple conditions to provide some information about the particle responses in terms of jump length against asymmetric waves to be implicated for the swash zone. The results show that despite reduction of many external parameters, jump length is still a highly skewed stochastic parameter. The probability distribution of jump length is quite wide (large variance) and skewed, different from that of saltation length in steady unidirectional flow, in which the distribution is close to normal. Considering integral of excess energy of an arbitrary single wave over its duration as a rational and meaningful representative of flow condition, the average jump length incremental trends reduces in the higher energy condition, resulting in a linear trend in logarithmic scale. The s due to higher turbulent kinetic energy follow similar trend of less turbulent flow conditions. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: It is generally accepted that the effect on beach morphology of the interactions between swash motion and the beach groundwater table depends on the elevation of the latter relative to that of the sea. Specifically, a low beach groundwater table is considered to enhance onshore sediment transport and beach accretion, while the reverse is thought to hold for a high beach groundwater table. Here, we use the results of a carefully designed series of tests conducted in the Delta Flume, the Netherlands, as part of the Barrier Dynamics Experiment (BARDEX), to unequivocally demonstrate the validity of this assertion. During the experiment, a 4-m high and 50-m long gravel barrier (D 50 =11mm) was constructed within the central region of the 250-m long and 7-m deep wave flume, enabling a back-barrier ‘lagoon’ to be located at its landward side. The groundwater table in the beach was manipulated by lowering and raising the lagoon level, and the gravel beach was subjected to variable wave conditions and sea/lagoon levels. Using as the initial beach profile the morphology resulting from 90min of wave forcing with the sea and lagoon at the same level, the identical wave forcing with a low lagoon level consistently resulted in onshore sediment transport in the swash zone and beach accretion, whereas the identical wave forcing with a high lagoon level consistently caused offshore sediment transport in the swash zone and beach erosion. The divergent beach morphological responses for the low and high lagoon levels could not be attributed to changes in the ‘bulk’ swash hydrodynamics (i.e., based on single-point velocity measurements) arising from a difference in the amount of swash infiltration into the unsaturated beach. Instead, application of a sediment transport model that accounts for the effects of in/exfiltration suggested that the onshore sediment transport and beach accretion for the low lagoon tests mainly resulted from enhanced bed shear stresses during the wave uprush due to infiltration into the saturated part of the beachface. Due to the large hydraulic conductivity of gravel (K = O(0.1ms−1)), the effect of altered shear stresses due to in/exfiltration may be an important factor in sediment transport in the swash zone of gravel beaches. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: This paper deals with field measurements of undulations of the bottom bathymetry along an otherwise straight coast at the Danish West Coast. Two bathymetric datasets and two time series of wave measurements are used in order to determine the following properties: the offshore extent of shoreline undulations, the amount of sediment transported alongshore in the shoreline undulations, the relationship between the shoreline undulations and longshore bars and the relationship between the morphology and the hydrodynamics. In one of the data sets the shoreline undulations are well correlated with undulations on the depth contours between −5m and +2m relative to mean sea level. In the other data set, only undulations on the depth contours between −1m and +1m are well correlated with the shoreline undulations. The main difference in the wave climate between the two locations is the orientation of the shoreline such that the wave incidence angle is more oblique on the section of shoreline with well correlated depth contours, suggesting that the well correlated depth contours are a result of the oblique wave incidence. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: Details are given herein of the refinement and application of a three-dimensional layer integrated numerical model to predict morphological changes in tidal basins. The solution of governing differential equations, which consist of the conservation of mass and momentum for the hydrodynamics, the transport equation for the suspended sediment fluxes and the sediment mass conservation equation for the bed level changes are carried out by the use of Alternating Direction Implicit (ADI) Finite Difference Method (FDM). The model includes different criteria for the initiation of motion namely Shields (1936, Application of Similarity Principles and Turbulence Research to Bed load Movement, Hydrodynamics Laboratory, California Institute of Technology, Pub. No. 167), Kolahdoozan (1999, Numerical Modelling of Geomorphological Processes in Estuarine Waters, PhD Thesis, Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering, University of Bradford, Bradford, UK, 288) and Zanke (2003, On the Influence of Turbulence on the Initiation of Sediment Motion, International Journal of Sediment Research, 18(1), 17–31), to compare different aspects of flow conditions. As the flow is highly turbulent with the random nature of its components, many researchers have tried to express sediment transport processes by using stochastic approaches. In the current study both deterministic and stochastic methods are included in the numerical model to evaluate their accuracy and efficiency. To validate the numerical model results, laboratory measurements are used, with these being obtained from an earlier experimental program undertaken by the authors. Results of a short term bed level changes in a laboratory model harbor are included for the model verification purposes. Comparisons are undertaken using different criteria for the initiation of motion, with the results highlighting that the unsteadiness in the flow parameters included in the numerical model has a major effect on the bed level changes inside the harbor, in compare with the turbulence structure of the flow. The model is then applied to a real case study of the Humber Estuary, located in the UK, with comparisons being undertaken for different criteria for the initiation of motion, using both deterministic and stochastic approaches for the long term bed level predictions. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: A thorough discussion of results from laboratory experiments with regular waves sheds light on the gap that lies between the sediment transport associated with ripple migration and the performance of a standard bedload transport formula in terms of bed shear concept. It is found that the extent of deviations of the bedload transport formula by Ribberink (1998) from the measured rate of sediment transport associated with ripple migration becomes systematically apparent under conditions of increasing settling time factor Ω s (= η/(w 0 T); η is the ripple height, w 0 the settling velocity and T the wave period). Re-examination of previous two field studies demonstrates a further reinforcement for phase-lag argument addressed in this paper. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: This study focuses on barred beach shoreface nourishments physically simulated in a wave flume. The attack of a schematic storm on three different nourishments is analysed. The apex and waning storm phases lead respectively to offshore and onshore sediment transports. Nourishments in the trough and on the outer bar feed the bar and increase wave dissipation offshore. The bar acts as a wave filter and reduces shore erosion (lee effect). In contrast, nourishment on the beach face leads mostly to shore feeding and reconstruction (feeder effect). With successive nourishments, the beach face clearly becomes steeper and onshore sediment transport is reduced during moderate wave climates. The surface grain size analysis reveals marked variations. Coarser sediments are sorted on the bar and the upper beach face. These locations correspond to large wave dissipation zones during the storm apex. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract: New laboratory data are presented on the influence of free long waves, bound long waves and wave groups on sediment transport in the surf and swash zones. As a result of the very significant difficulties in isolating and identifying the morphodynamic influences of long waves and wave groups in field conditions, a laboratory study was designed specifically to enable measurements of sediment transport that resolve these influences. The evolution of model sand beaches, each with the same initial plane slope, was measured for a range of wave conditions, firstly using monochromatic short waves. Subsequently, the monochromatic conditions were perturbed with free long waves and then substituted with bichromatic wave groups with the same mean energy flux. The beach profile changes and net cross-shore transport rates were extracted and compared for the different wave conditions, with and without long waves and wave groups. The experiments include a range of wave conditions, e.g. high-energy, moderate-energy, low-energy waves, which induce both spilling and plunging breakers and different turbulent intensities, and the beaches evolve to form classical accretive, erosive, and intermediate beach states. The data clearly demonstrate that free long waves influence surf zone morphodynamics and promote increased onshore sediment transport during accretive conditions and decreased offshore transport under erosive conditions. In contrast, wave groups, which can generate both forced and free long waves, generally reduce onshore transport during accretive conditions and increase offshore transport under erosive conditions. The influence of the free long waves and wave groups is consistent with the concept of the relative fall velocity, H/w s T, as a dominant parameter controlling net beach erosion or accretion. Free long waves tend to reduce H/w s T, promoting accretion, while wave groups tend to increase the effective H/w s T, promoting erosion. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: Wave overtopping nearshore coastal structures, such as shore-parallel breakwaters, can significantly alter the current circulation and sediment transport patterns around the structures, which in turn affects the formation of tombolos and salients in the nearshore area. This paper describes the implementation of a wave overtopping module into an existing depth-averaged coastal morphological mode: COAST2D and model applications to investigate the effect of wave overtopping on the hydrodynamics and morphodynamics around a group of shore-parallel breakwaters. The hydrodynamic aspects of the model were validated against a series of laboratory conditions. The model was then applied to a study site at Sea Palling, Norfolk, UK, where 9 shore-parallel segmented breakwaters including 4 surface-piercing and 5 low-crested breakwaters are present, for the storm conditions in Nov 2006. The model results were compared with laboratory data and field measurements, showing a good agreement on both hydrodynamics and morphological changes. Further analysis of wave overtopping effect on the nearshore hydrodynamics and morphodynamics reveals that wave overtopping has significant impacts on the nearshore circulation, sediment transport and the resulting morphological changes within such a complex breakwater scheme under the storm and macro-tide conditions. The results indicate the importance of including the wave overtopping in modelling nearshore morphodynamics with the presence of coastal structures. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: Morphology evolution and hydro-sedimentological interactions in muddy coastal environments are long term processes. These processes are closely related to suspended sediment transport driven by waves and tidal currents. In the traditional calibration/verification methodology for cohesive sediment transport models, time-series data of suspended sediment concentration (SSC) measured during one or several tidal periods are commonly used as major validation references. But the disadvantage of this approach includes that it cannot filter the noises caused by the stochastic nature of short term hydrodynamics induced by waves and the varying properties of bottom sediments; besides a phase-lag phenomenon is often observed between sediment transport and hydrodynamics in the short term. On the contrary, a stable relationship between sedimentation and hydrodynamics is usually found in the long term. For a specific weather, the SSC values often agree well with local wave heights for muddy coasts. Therefore, in this paper a conceptual quantity defined as “representative SSC” was brought forward, and a model validation concept, including calibration and verification approaches, was proposed, in which calibration is performed against yearly-representative SSC values and the long term transport trend, and verification by using representative SSC values corresponding to different wave conditions. A numerical simulation was set up, and a real-life engineering application, Lianyungang Harbor, China, was executed to elaborate the proposed validation concept. Finally, the characteristics of SSC distribution around Lianyungang Harbor were discussed. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: A well resolved and highly accurate direct numerical simulation (DNS) solver has been developed to understand the implication of hydrodynamics to sediment transport. In the first part of the study we focus on steady flow over two-dimensional and three-dimensional ripples at two Reynolds numbers Re τ =180 and 400 (defined by channel half-height and wall-friction velocity) in a channel geometry. The DNS scheme is based on a fourth-order vertical velocity and second-order vertical vorticity formulation, which resolves the difficulties in pressure boundary condition encountered when solving the Navier–Stokes equations. The complex boundary introduced due to the ripples has been imposed in the Cartesian domain using an elegant immersed boundary method. Detailed hydrodynamic analysis has revealed turbulence statistics (in particular, the higher order) and henceforth, the flow structures are sensitive — whether the ripples are two-dimensional or three-dimensional. The importance of fluctuating component of the bottom stress in addition to its mean component; and its significance to sediment transport and ripple migration speed have been investigated. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: A two-dimensional scour model based on coupled system of shallow water equations (SWEs) and sediment transport on unstructured mesh is developed. The coupled system of hydrodynamic and morphodynamic equations is solved by finite volume method using Godunov scheme. Roe''s approximate Riemann solver is used to calculate the inviscid fluxes. The use of unstructured mesh makes the model applicable to complex domains. However, it is difficult to evaluate the eigenvalues and eigenvectors of the Jacobian matrix in the global coordinate. The method proposed herein to deal with this difficulty is to transform the system into the local coordinate with one of the axes in the same direction as the interface outward normal vector. In the local coordinate system, the Jacobian matrix is simplified and the eigenvalues are analyzed using asymptotic method. Regular expansion breaks down when the flow is near critical. Uniformity of the expansion is achieved by changing the scales. Rotational invariance theorem is used to relate the interfacial fluxes in the global and local coordinate systems. Special treatment of the source term on unstructured grid makes the scheme stable and physically balanced (both mass and momentum). The method proposed in this paper for the eigen-system is very efficient comparing to iterative numerical methods. Results from the test cases show good agreement with the experiments. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

A non-hydrostatic phase-resolving numerical model (SWASH) is used to investigate the wave-driven nearshore hydrodynamics corresponding to new observations from a three-dimensional physical model in a wave basin. In the physical model, waves from a passing storm are simulated by varying the energy and duration of waves generated by a paddle over time and the beach morphology is surveyed in high spatial-resolution using a 3D laser scanner after each segment of the storm. An oblique incident wave angle introduces spatially variability in wave energy along the beach and results in morphologic differences during the storm, with active transport of beach sand by the wave-driven circulation. SWASH is validated using wave and current observations at each stage of the storm, indicating low root-mean-squared errors between model results and wave measurements, where the high-resolution model is able to predict wave shoaling, breaking and generation of the alongshore current. Model-data agreement is not as high for the velocity, suggesting spatial variability in bottom friction and horizontal mixing, and evolution of the bed in the physical model, could explain the differences. The detailed numerical model results indicate that the alongshore current is generated by wave breaking in the nearshore zone, and it increases in speed across a wider surf zone for increasing wave energy during the storm. This is associated with a bottom shear stress that exceeds the critical bed shear stress, with the potential to initiate motion and transport sediment in agreement with the experimental observations. • A physical model is implemented in a wave basin with a long and steep sandy beach. • Wave energy is varied over time to simulate a passing storm. • Wave breaking generates an alongshore current that induces morphologic change. • Phase-resolving simulations of nearshore hydrodynamics are run for storm phases. • Results improve understanding of nearshore circulation and bed shear stress. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract: Full-range equation covering all the flow regimes in a wave boundary layer is proposed for the boundary layer thickness. The results are compared with the available experimental data and good agreement has been found. In case of wave boundary layers, there are three definitions of boundary layer thickness in use. Therefore, the full-range equation is derived for three of the definitions. The findings of this study may be useful in calculating suspended sediment transport in coastal environments and studying wave–current combined motion. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: This paper analyses the morphological response induced by low-crested structures on the adjacent seabed, with particular interest in the erosion patterns that frequently develop at gaps and roundheads. The mechanisms responsible for erosion processes are examined by means of morphodynamic simulations with the numerical suite MIKE 21 CAMS developed by DHI Water & Environment. The main purpose of the paper is to verify how and how far a commercial code can predict bed evolution, in vicinity of defence structures in a real case, in order to get information that may be very useful for structure design and possible maintenance of existing works. The code is applied to a long-term simulation on a study site that is characterized by a composite intervention and suffers from severe erosion, Lido di Dante (Italy). The simulation covers the period (one year and a half) between two available multi-beam surveys, in order to have a detailed real bathymetry as starting point and another one, as accurate as the first, to compare numerical with surveyed results. All the other input data for the model, as waves, tide, wind and sediment characteristics, are derived from measurements in the area; moreover, the code is calibrated using wave and current data acquired during a field campaign. The bed evolution derived from simulations shows a good agreement with the survey both in the locations and in the intensity of erosive and depositional areas. A sensitivity analysis of results to some selected modelling parameters is performed on a shorter simulation period (one month), showing that accounting for bed slope in sediment transport modelling has greater effects in bathymetry evolution than the use of a complex sediment bathymetry or the representation of wave diffraction. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: The effect of acceleration skewness on sheet flow sediment transport rates is analysed using new data which have acceleration skewness and superimposed currents but no boundary layer streaming. Sediment mobilizing forces due to drag and to acceleration (∼ pressure gradients) are weighted by cosine and sine, respectively, of the angle φ τ · φ τ =0 thus corresponds to drag dominated sediment transport, , while φ τ =90° corresponds to total domination by the pressure gradients, . Using the optimal angle, φ τ =51° based on that data, good agreement is subsequently found with data that have strong influence from boundary layer streaming. Good agreement is also maintained with the large body of U-tube data simulating sine waves with superimposed currents and second-order Stokes waves, all of which have zero acceleration skewness. The recommended model can be applied to irregular waves with arbitrary shape as long as the assumption negligible time lag between forcing and sediment transport rate is valid. With respect to irregular waves, the model is much easier to apply than the competing wave-by-wave models. Issues for further model developments are identified through a comprehensive data review. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: Low crested structures for beach defence purposes are frequently configured in the form of cells. This paper investigates the hydrodynamic and morphological response of such defence schemes by means of laboratory experiments and numerical simulations. Experiments were carried out at the large mobile-bed basin of the “Laboratorio di Idraulica Costiera” of the “Politecnico di Bari”, IT. Tests peculiarity is the simultaneous simulation of three different types of lateral confinement: a channel, representative of an indefinitely long structure, and two areas with narrow and wide gaps, representative of a common scheme and of an almost isolated structure respectively. Submerged, zero freeboard and emerged conditions were tested. A typical storm of the Northern Adriatic sea was reproduced by 6 wave attacks. Water level and currents were measured in front and behind the structures, at gaps and roundheads. Results, focusing on rip current intensities and piling-up, are presented and discussed. An extensive plan view of wave intensities and flow patterns inside the basin is provided through numerical simulations with MIKE 21 numerical suite. The sand bed was surveyed along 30 profiles covering the narrow gap area and the isolated structure roundheads. For the submerged conditions tests, 15 of these profiles and the shoreline position were monitored after each step of the simulated storm. Average and maximum values of local erosion at the structure toe are presented. Time evolution of erosion at gaps is related to the main hydrodynamic variables through Bijker sediment transport formula. Evaluation of volume changes in the protected area shows that sand is in average trapped behind the barriers, being transported offshore from gaps and returning inshore over the crest. The observed and reconstructed transport mechanism is a combination of bed load and suspended transport, the latter being slightly more important. Bed level changes are well predicted by morphodynamic simulations performed with MIKE 21 CAMS. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: Two-dimensional depth-averaged Boussinesq-type equations were presented with the consideration of slowly varying bathymetry and effects of bottom viscous boundary layer. These Boussinesq-type equations were written in terms of the horizontal velocity components evaluated at an arbitrary elevation in the water depth and the free surface displacement. The leading order effects of the bottom boundary layer were represented by a convolution integral in the depth-integrated continuity equation. To test the validity of the theory, a set of laboratory experiments was performed to measure the viscous damping and shoaling of a solitary wave propagating in a wave tank. The time histories of the free surface profiles were measured at several locations along the centerline of the flume. To compare these laboratory data with theoretical results, the two-dimensional Boussinesq-type equations were integrated across the wave tank, resulting in a set of one-dimensional equations, while the side-wall boundary layers were properly considered. The agreement between the experimental data and numerical results was very good. The bottom shear stress formula was also given and its impact on the sediment transport rate was discussed. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]