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Wave nonlinearity significantly influences wave attenuation and can cause sediment transport imbalances in vegetated zones, impacting shoreline stability and ecosystem-based coastal defences. Despite its importance, the parameterisation and mechanisms of wave nonlinearity evolution over flexible vegetation remain unclear. This study examines the mechanisms behind non-breaking wave nonlinearity evolution over flexible vegetation and provides parameterisation of wave nonlinearity, based on experimental data collected by Anderson and Smith (2014). The study derives a new set of empirical formulae for predicting wave nonlinearity in Spartina alterniflora, which considers Ursell number, relative vegetation width, vegetation submergence, and vegetation density. The predictions made using these formulae are in good agreement with the measurements. The results indicate a decrease in wave skewness across the span of vegetation, whereas wave asymmetry increases until it reaches a maximum before decreasing. The findings suggest a preferential dissipation of high harmonics compared to low harmonics in the vegetation zone. Additionally, bispectrum analysis reveals that vegetation enhances the difference interaction while suppressing the sum interaction between wave components. The findings enable improvements in our understanding of wave nonlinearity in vegetation, providing better predictive capabilities for wave attenuation and sediment transport, which are crucial for the design and optimization of coastal defence systems. • Non-breaking wave skewness keeps decreasing over the vegetation, while wave asymmetry initially rises to a maximum and then decreases. • Vegetation enhances the difference interaction while suppressing the sum interaction between wave components. • A new empirical formula for predicting non-breaking wave nonlinearity takes into account both vegetation properties and wave characteristics. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Process-based nearshore morphodynamic models are commonly used tools by coastal engineers and planners to predict the nearshore morphology change of sandy beaches across various spatiotemporal scales. Accurate modeling of the morphological response on medium and long time scales is imperative for quantitative assessments of coastal infrastructure over a project's intended life-span. However, most previous modeling applications have focused on single/sub-seasonal storm events and are often limited to an assessment of the subaerial beach (i.e. berm and dune). This not only leaves uncertainty concerning the quality of morphology predictions on extended (> weeks) time scales, but also the capacity of process-based models to emulate realistic nearshore sandbar dynamics and the corresponding exchange of sediment between the nearshore-beach system. To shed light on these meso-scale dynamics, CSHORE, a 1D phase-averaged, process-based nearshore morphodynamic model, was applied on an annual scale to a multi-barred, dissipative beach in Oysterville, WA, USA. Thousands of unique sediment transport and hydrodynamic parameter combinations were executed during model calibration. A large portion of these simulations displayed physically realistic sandbar dynamics, including the growth, decay, and migration of intertidal and subtidal sandbars. To explore the model mechanisms enabling realistic bar behavior, the binary and multinomial logistic regression model were used to quantify the relationship between model parameter selection and the probability of various categorical bar configurations occurring in the final predicted profile. The results indicate the most sensitive parameters associated with barred morphology, in this study, and support the use of separate sediment transport parameters for low and high wave energy conditions. The co-utilization of numerical and statistical modeling outlined in this publication is generalizable to future exploratory modeling and/or calibration routines concerned with categorical outcomes. • CSHORE is used to simulate annual scale nearshore and intertidal sandbar evolution. • Novel logistic regression methods inform model parameter influence on bar behavior. • Intertidal (subtidal) bars are most influenced by low (high) wave energy processes. • Low values of the breaker index favor barred morphology predictions. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Progressive coastal retreat has been an issue exacerbated in recent years due to climate change. Sand is eroded from beaches during the winter and partially recovered during summer by slow accretion processes. The development of new working with nature techniques that produce enhanced beach accretion could help recover most of the sand lost during winter and thus reduce the impact of climate change on beaches. The presence of bedforms contribute to increasing onshore sediment transport, but few studies have been performed to quantify their effect. In this study, the evolution and effect of artificially created bedforms on onshore sediment transport were analysed in prototype-scale laboratory experiments. The tested bedforms mimicked a beach ploughing of the intertidal area, with a wavelength of 1.6 m and height of 0.25 m, corresponding to the ploughing dimensions that a tractor can perform. Two tests were performed with the same initial morphology, medium sand (D 50 = 0.318 mm), sea state conditions (H s = 0.3 m, T p = 7 s) that produced accretion, and different water levels that represent two tidal states. The experimental flume was longitudinally split into two equal channels of 1 m wide, allowing the simultaneous simulation of a natural control geometry and a ploughed geometry, facilitating the comparison and assuring the very same sea conditions. The presence of ploughed bedforms produced two effects: (1) an acceleration of natural accretion rates reaching 40%, and (2) onshore sediment transport due to the migration of the bedforms. The acceleration of natural accretion was explained by the extra bottom roughness induced by the bedforms, which produced more wave dissipation through bottom friction and thus more accretive conditions. The ploughed height decreased exponentially as waves broke over the crest of the ridges, which almost disappeared after 2–3 h of wave action. As a result, the extra bottom roughness also decreased as time passed. Consequently, the nature-assisted beach enhancement technique of ploughing should be applied at each low tide to produce a cumulative effect. Plough bedforms migrated onshore at a rate of approximately 0.2 m/h during the first hour, mobilizing onshore up to 61 kg m−1 h−1 of sediment. Ripples appeared on the tops of the ridge crests and migrated faster onshore, contributing to the migration of the ploughed bedforms. These results demonstrated the importance of considering bedforms while studying accretion processes and the potential of ploughing as an innovative strategy of working with nature to enhance beach recovery. • Working with nature. • Ploughing the intertidal area of a beach enhances natural accretion. • Real scale laboratory experiments measuring sediment transport. • Mechanically ploughing increases hydraulic roughness and wave energy dissipation. • Onshore migration of bedforms help beach recovery. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Foredunes provide many environmental and ecosystem services including protection from wave erosion and flooding hazards during storm events. While the impact of human interventions on the short-term evolution of coastal dunes is reasonably well understood, less is known about their contemporary influence on current wind and sediment dynamics several decades after implementation. The coastal dunes in Leucate (SE, France) have been anthropogenically constructed and are dominated by offshore wind conditions. Since their construction 20 years ago, a distinct variation in their longshore morphology has developed that is inherited from its original construction. The northern part of the dune has a symmetrical profile with a 28° degree stoss slope, 30° lee slope and a single crest. The southern part is asymmetric, with a gentler stoss slope (12°), 26° lee slope, and a double crest. To explore the potential geomorphic impacts of this distinct difference in morphology, several numerical simulations with varying wind speeds and direction were conducted. We used Computational Fluid Dynamics (CFD) to explore the spatial variations of the near surface wind flow, shear stress and aeolian sediment transport. show that for each scenario, near surface wind speed accelerated toward the dune crest on the windward slope of the dune. The maximum wind speed varied with incident wind direction, the highest speeds occurring when incident wind flow was perpendicular to the dune crest. The double crest in the southern section of the dune affected the wind flow by inducing two consecutive speeds-up zones, with a greater maximum wind speed than on the single crested dune. Wind flow separation was observed where a steep lee slope was present (single crested dune), and only during perpendicular winds. This suggests that the shape of the dune and the direction of the wind are key parameters rather than wind speed. The area affected by reversed separated flow was spatially limited and did not extend beyond the dune toe but was below the threshold for aeolian sediment transport. Elsewhere in the lee of the dune, the wind was only deflected by an order of 15° for the oblique winds (310 and 330°), and less than 10° for the perpendicular wind (290°) on the southern part. In these locations, the shear velocity exceeded the threshold, notably on the southern dune, which coincided with the formation of undulating aeolian deposits in the lee of vegetation on the dune crest. The spatial differences observed in wind flow and aeolian sediment transport processes on this human-made dune were directly inherited from differences in their construction two decades ago. These results demonstrate the importance of the constructed dune profile, due to its potential impact on the long-term evolution of the landscape and the sediment budget of the system. • Dune construction methods impact their morphology even after several decades. • A relatively small coastal dune can lead to airflow separation. • The pattern of wind flow perturbation depends on dune shape and wind direction. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The swash zone is an important region for the coastal morphodynamics. Often, model studies of the swash zone use depth-averaged models. These models typically assume a vertically uniform velocity and sand concentration for calculating the sand transport flux. However, this assumption is not always accurate in the swash zone. In order to investigate the vertical distribution of velocity and sand, we use a depth-resolving model that is able to capture these vertical variations. We simulate the flow and suspended sediment transport induced by bichromatic waves using a 2DV depth-resolving RANS model. Our verification of the model shows that special care needs to be taken to deal with bubbles in 2DV simulations. Furthermore, we show that turning off the (Wilcox, 2006, 2008) limiter for turbulence, increases the modelled turbulent kinetic energy that is induced by wave-breaking, resulting in improved predictions of sediment concentrations. Using the depth-resolving model, we show that the vertical distribution of velocity and sand is far from uniform in the swash zone. The results show that if one assumes vertically uniform depth-averaged velocities and concentrations, one can overpredict the sediment flux by 50%. • Air bubbles can stay unrealistically long near the bed in 2DV swash simulations. • Bubbles near the bed lead to lower shear stresses and lower sediment pick up. • Increased wave-breaking turbulence leads to increased onshore sand transport. • A model assuming a vertically uniform flux of sand can underpredict the flux by 50%. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Existing prediction formulas for clear-water scour development are typically empirical fittings of lab-scale results. However, it is unreasonable to evaluate the in-situ clear-water scour process around a pile based on small-scale flume tests due to inherent scale effect. This study proposes a time-dependent model of clear-water scour development around a pile foundation under steady currents. A scaling expression of shear stress acting on sediment particles at the front of a circular pile is established based on the phenomenological theory of turbulence. By applying the sediment transport model of flat-bed to local scour around a circular pile, a physics-based ordinary differential equation for predicting the scour depth development is derived. The analytical solution of scour depth development is generally more consistent with the experimental data compared with previous models. The probability density function distribution of the proposed model's error mainly concentrates within the range of ±10%, which is significantly superior to previous models. The proposed model integrates all pertinent parameters that govern the scour process using fundamental principles, rendering it free from scale issues and applicable to prototype conditions. The present model is applied to evaluating clear-water scour development around typical prototype piles with diameters ranging from 2.0 m to 10.0 m. The predicted variations of equilibrium scour time with pile diameter, flow velocity and sediment particle size aligns closely with previous experimental observations. • A time-dependent model of clear-water scour development around a pile foundation is proposed based on the phenomenological theory of turbulence. • The derived analytical solution of scour depth development is more consistent with the experimental data compared with previous models. • The proposed model is free from scale issues and can be applied to prototype conditions. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Numerical simulations were conducted to investigate steady current scour around rectangular and square subsea caissons. The caissons, which are representative of subsea structures, have a submerged height ranging from 0.5 to several times their longest base dimension. The flow model used is based on the Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes equations, and the scour model simulates bed load and suspended load transport to predict the evolution of the seabed profile. The aim of this study is to investigate the mechanisms of local scour, specifically the contribution of the horseshoe vortex and the local streamline contraction near the caisson corners to local scour. The model is validated through comparisons with experimental measurements, indicating reasonable agreement. Based on the numerical model results, the mechanisms of local scour around square and rectangular caissons are found to be qualitatively similar. If the flow is directed perpendicular to one of the caisson faces, both the horseshoe vortex and the local streamline contraction contribute to scour. The maximum scour depth is located at the two upstream corners of the caisson due to the combined effects of the horseshoe vortex and streamline contraction. When the flow approaches the caisson with a diagonal attack angle of 45°, the two upstream faces act like a streamlined wedge that splits the incoming flow. The study found that the horseshoe vortex almost disappears and the scour is primarily caused by the local velocity amplification at the two side corners. If the flow attack angle is 45°, the scour does not initiate near the upstream corner without the contribution from the horseshoe vortex. These findings are expected to serve as a valuable theoretical foundation for the design of scour protection. • Scour around subsea caissons is studied by fully three-dimensional simulations. • The contributions of the horseshoe vortex and the local streamline contraction near the caisson corners to local scour are identified. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Scour around a circular monopile in coastal regions has been investigated extensively over the past decades, but the time development of scour depth around an offshore-wind monopile under large current–wave ratio still lacks a predictive model. By considering the conservation of sand volume and adopting the conventional exponential law for temporal variation, a semi-empirical model, which has three parameters, i.e., an equilibrium scour depth, a shape coefficient and a scour characteristic time scale, is developed for predicting the time development of scour depth around a monopile under live-bed conditions of combined wave–current flows. A series of laboratory experiments was conducted in current-only and wave–current flows to obtain data for model calibration and validation. Experimental results indicate that adding weak waves on current accelerates scour development, which is successfully captured by the proposed model through using the far-field bottom shear stress as a key model input. The overall model inaccuracy is within 25%, and the model's applicability is further confirmed by field measurements from an offshore wind farm in east China. This model can help to determine the timing of installing scour protection around offshore monopiles, especially for the circumstances with very strong local sediment transport (live-bed). • A new model for scour time development around a circular pile is proposed. • A set of scour tests was conducted in live-bed conditions for calibration and validation. • A field study was carried out for an offshore monopile wind farm in eastern China. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The beach slope β is a key component characterizing the coastal response to wave forcing. Here we investigate the rapid adaptation of the upper beach slope to a given wave forcing, for the case of a lower flat platform. Such types of morphology are found on coral and rocky reef beaches and low tide terrace environments. The influence of the lower platform on this rapid equilibrium beach state is shown to be significant depending on the breaking wave regime. In particular, the width of the platform and its water level can affect the wave dissipation along the inner surf and thus the wave structure entering the swash. This paper provides a classification of the beach slope equilibrium values as a function of the Dean number on a short time scale (individual wave action), based on both offshore and swash wave conditions. A decreasing trend of the beach slope with increasing offshore Dean number (Ω 0) is found for Ω 0 ≲ 2. 7. For Ω 0 ≳ 2. 7 it is observed that the beach slope gradient is strongly controlled by the surf zone dissipation and it becomes necessary to define the swash Dean number (Ω s w) to classify the slope. Finally, a semi-empirical formula for the beach slope evolution in the case of a low tide platform is introduced and tested on two natural low-tide terrace beaches. • Definition of rapid equilibrium beach face slope associated to individual wave action. • Distinction between swash and surf dominated beaches on LTT beaches using Dean number based on offshore or local swash flow characteristics (Ω 0 or Ω s w). • Swash-dominated beaches respond directly to offshore wave forcing. • In surf-dominated beaches the inner-surf zone cannot be disregarded. • A simplified model is proposed to predict the rapid evolution of the beach slope as a function of the swash Dean number Ω s w. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Laboratory investigations of beach morphology change under wave action are undertaken to gain insight into coastal processes, design coastal structures and validate the predictions of numerical models. For the results of such experiments to be reliable, it is necessary that they are repeatable. The equilibrium beach concept, that beach morphology will evolve to a quasi-static equilibrium shape for a given forcing suggests that experiments should be repeatable to some degree. However, sediment transport in turbulent breaking and broken waves is complex and highly variable and the level of repeatability at different temporal and spatial scales is challenging to measure, as such, previous work has restricted comparisons to small numbers of waves. Here we use the results of two identical, 20-h large-scale wave flume experiments to investigate the repeatability of sediment transport and beach morphology change under waves at timescales down to individual swash events. It is shown that while flow characteristics from identical swash events are very repeatable, the sediment transported can be very different in both magnitude and direction due to differences in turbulence, sediment advection and morphological feedback. Over longer periods containing multiple matching swash events however, the beach responds in a very similar manner, with the level of morphological repeatability increasing with time. The results also demonstrate that gross swash zone sediment transport remains high even as a beach profile approaches quasi-equilibrium, but the proportion of individual swash events that cause large sediment fluxes (>±7.5 kg/event/m) reduces with time. The results of this laboratory study indicate that beach morphology change has a level of determinism over timescales of several minutes and longer, giving confidence in the results from physical modelling studies. However, the large differences in sediment transport from apparently identical swash events questions the value in pursuing numerical predictions of sediment transport at the wave-by-wave timescale unless the reversals in sediment transport between apparently near identical swash events can also be predicted. • Large-scale flume experiments are used to assess morphological repeatability. • The results of laboratory investigations of morphology change are repeatable. • Sediment fluxes from almost identical waves vary in magnitude and direction. • Over longer timescales, sediment fluxes from identical wave groups converge. • Gross sediment transport remains high even as beaches approach quasi-equilibrium. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Sand waves are found on shallow, sandy seabeds throughout the world and their dynamics may pose an imminent threat to offshore construction. Therefore, there is a pressing need to understand bed level dynamics in sand wave areas. These bed level dynamics lead to variations in sand wave shape and migration rate over time. However, these variations cannot be explained with the present-day process-based sand wave models, which all include a purely periodic tidal forcing. To explain these fluctuations a more intricate description of the hydrodynamics is necessary. The aim of this study is to explore the importance of time-varying, non-tidal currents for sand wave dynamics in the North Sea. We adopted the three-dimensional Delft3D-Flexible Mesh model, and were able to reconstruct time-varying, non-tidal currents on top of the periodic tidal forcing, while significantly reducing computation times. The simulated currents and water levels showed a good agreement with in-situ measurements. Compared to the situation with only tidal forcing, the simulated sedimentation and erosion rates were amplified up to 15 times due to time-varying, non-tidal currents. Additionally, periods of net erosion were found at locations in the sand wave transect where tidally forced models only showed net-sedimentation. It is therefore important to consider time-varying, non-tidal currents when predicting future sand wave dynamics in the field. • The reproduction of observed hydrodynamics is improved significantly compared to previous sand wave modelling approaches. • Effects of time-varying, non-tidal currents on sediment transport in sand wave fields are quantified. • Net sedimentation rates due to time-varying, non-tidal currents are be up to 15 times larger than the tidally induced rates. • First application of Delft3D FM software to study sand wave dynamics leads to a significant decrease in computation time. • Excluding time-varying, non-tidal currents can lead to underestimation of sand wave migration and trench infill rates. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Catastrophic breaches of water and mine waste retaining impoundments in recent history have emphasized the severity and consequences to the downstream environment. In this study, the applicability and suitability of the XBeach numerical model for modelling earth dam failures driven by overtopping with water is explored by detailed comparison with controlled experimental data. The XBeach model is applied to simulate laboratory-scale breaches caused by overtopping failure of dams constructed with uniform sand at the Queen's University Landslide Flume by Walsh et al. (2021a). The model sensitivity to boundary conditions for different virtual flume sizes, different sediment transport equations that influence erosion rates, and the process of avalanching are investigated. The model results are in best agreement with laboratory measurements when the Soulsby-van Rijn sediment transport formulation is used, which depends on grain size, and the avalanching module is activated, indicating the importance of these processes. The model is also run for different dam geometries to investigate the influence of upstream slope angle, which is relevant for tailings dam breach analyses. The results indicate that for flatter slopes the model is in closer agreement with observations of the peak discharge, while for steeper slopes the model results are better for breach duration time. Overall, XBeach provides promising results for the prediction of the dam breach outflow hydrograph at the laboratory scale and has potential to improve understanding of earth dam failure outcomes with further investigation. • XBeach is applied to simulate the failure and morphological evolution of earth dams. • Results are compared to laboratory measurements for a range of upstream slopes. • XBeach is a promising tool for predicting the breach outflow hydrograph response. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Beach loss is a growing global challenge that threatens the safety of coastal communities, the health of coastal ecosystems, recreational amenities, and regional economies dependent on tourism. Spatial gradients in longshore sediment transport, or divergence of drift (DoD), is a primary driver of beach width change over multi-annual time scales, but the response of any particular beach can be challenging to characterize and predict. Here we present a new method to characterize DoD using a non-uniform segmentation of the coastline informed by the spatial distribution of longshore transport potential, including the location of physical barriers identified using satellite imagery, and both maxima and reversals in longshore transport potential derived from nearshore wave data. The method demonstrates improved capacity to predict beach width trends at sandy beaches compared to methods that rely on a uniform segmentation of the coastline. In an application to southern California where satellite data documents two decades of beach width change, the non-uniform segmentation method correctly predicts the sign of beach trends at 93% of transects within a littoral cell and achieves a linear correlation between DoD and beach width trends exceeding 0.8. Moreover, we find that a minimum of five years of data are required to establish consistently strong correlations between DoD and beach width changes. Conversely, use of a uniform segmentation is shown to be unreliable for estimating beach width trends due to strong sensitivities to shoreline segment size. This work shows the potential to leverage nearshore wave data and satellite-based beach width data for improved characterization of shoreline dynamics relevant to beach erosion management. • A new shoreline modeling method is presented for estimating divergence of drift. • Segment boundaries are identified using longshore transport characteristics. • Strong correlations were shown between divergence of drift and beach width trends. • A littoral Peclet number characterizes the dominant longshore transport mechanism. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A Reynolds-averaged two-phase Eulerian model for sediment transport, SedFoam, is utilized in a two-dimensional domain for a given sediment grain size, flow period, and mobility number to study the asymmetric and skewed flow effects on the sediment transport over coarse-sand migrating ripples. First, the model is validated with a full-scale water tunnel experiment of orbital ripple driven by acceleration skewed (asymmetric) oscillatory flow with good agreement in the flow velocity, net sediment transport, and ripple migration rate. The model results showed that the asymmetric flow causes a net onshore sediment transport of both suspended and near-bed load (the conventional bed load and part of the near-bed suspended load, responsible for ripple migration). The suspended load transport is driven by the "positive phase-lag" effect, while the near-bed transport is due to the large erosion of the boundary layer on the stoss flank, sediment avalanching on the lee flank, and the returning flux induced by the stoss vortex. Together, these processes result in a net onshore transport rate. In contrast, for an energetic velocity skewed (skewed) flow, the net transport rate is offshore directed. This is due to a larger offshore-directed suspended load transport rate, resulting from the "negative phase-lag" effect, compared to the onshore-directed near-bed load transport rate. Compared to the asymmetric flow, the onshore near-bed load transport (and migration) rate is limited by the larger offshore directed flux associated with returning flow on the lee side, due to a stronger lee vortex generation during the onshore flow half-cycle. In the combined asymmetric-skewed case, the near-bed load and migration rate are higher than in the asymmetric flow case. Moreover, the offshore-directed suspended load is much smaller compared to the skewed flow case due to a competition between the negative (due to velocity skewness) and positive (due to acceleration skewness) phase-lag effects. As a result, the net transport rate is onshore directed but slightly smaller than the asymmetric flow case. • Vortex generation-ejection processes lead to different phase-lag effects for asymmetric and skewed flows. • The onshore ripple migration rate is limited (enhanced) by the lee (stoss) vortex induced returning flux for skewed (asymmetric) flows. • Combined asymmetric-skewed flow has the highest onshore migration rate (near-bed load). [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Storms and extremely energetic events may significantly impact the form and structure of beaches, and so cause erosive processes and coastal damages. Efficient management actions require an up-to-date and accurate knowledge of beach morphological changes, with the shoreline position being a good indicator of such changes. This work proposes the use of the open-source Shoreline Analysis and Extraction Tool (SAET) software for the definition of satellite-derived shorelines (SDSs) from L8 and Sentinel-2 imagery to reveal the shoreline position changes at the beaches of the Ebro Delta, NE Spain. Spatial-temporal models (STMs) of shoreline changes enable a characterisation of how the beaches responded to the storms of 2020. In conjunction with wave data, STMs enable an analysis of the erosive response to storm events, as well as a monitoring of subsequent beach recovery in the short and medium term (<1 year). Results show how Storm Gloria (January 2020, Hs max = 7.62 m) acted as a disruptive event and shifting point in the shoreline trend. As a response to that storm, major erosive processes occurred along the delta that caused an average shoreline retreat of 47 m. A progressive recovery during the spring and summer was mainly associated with periods of low wave energy. Nevertheless, by the end of the year a complete recovery had been achieved for about half of the coast, while the other half showed an average erosion of more than 10 m when compared to the pre-storm situation. Both the erosive and the recovery processes took place unevenly on different sections of the coast, probably dependent on factors such as the orientation of the beach and the pattern of longitudinal sediment transport along the coast. • Automatic shoreline extraction from Sentinel 2 and Landsat 8 imagery using SAET. • Pre and post-storm characterisation of SDS position in time and space using STMs. • Storm Gloria (January 2020) caused an unprecedented and heterogeneous impact on the Ebro Delta. • Slow recovery occurred in the months following the event conditioned by orientation and wave patterns. • About half of the delta showed a significant shoreline retreat by the end of 2020. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Quantitative predictions of marine and aeolian sediment transport in the nearshore–beach–dune system are important for designing Nature-Based Solutions (NBS) in coastal environments. To quantify the impact of the marine-aeolian interactions on shaping NBS, we present a framework coupling three existing process-based models: Delft3D Flexible Mesh, SWAN and AeoLiS. This framework facilitates the continuous exchange of bed levels, water levels and wave properties between numerical models focussing on the aeolian and marine domain. The coupled model is used to simulate the morphodynamic evolution of the Sand Engine mega-nourishment. Results display good agreement with the observed aeolian and marine volumetric developments, showing similar marine-driven erosion from the main peninsula and aeolian-driven infilling of the dune lake. To estimate the magnitude of the interactions between aeolian and marine processes, a comparison between the simulated morphological development by the coupled and stand-alone models was made. This comparison shows that aeolian sediment transport to the foredune, i.e. 214,000 m3 over 5 years, extracts sediment from the marine domain. As a result, the alongshore redistribution of sediment from the main peninsula by marine-driven processes decreased by 70,000 m3, representing 1.7% of the total marine-driven dispersion. From the aeolian perspective, marine-driven deposition and erosion reshape the cross-shore profile, controlling the supply-limited aeolian sediment transport and the magnitude of sediment deposition in the foredunes. In the region with persistent accretion along the Sand Engine's southern flank, a higher than average foredune deposition was predicted due to morphological development of the region where sediment is picked up by aeolian transport. Including these marine processes in the coupled model resulted in an increase of 1.3% in foredune growth in year 1 and up to 6.7% in year 5 along this accretive section. At the northern flank, where the developing lagoon and tidal channel provided increased shelter to the supratidal beach, predicted foredune deposition reduced up to −11.5% over the evaluation period. Our findings show that both aeolian and marine transports impact reshaping the nourished sand, where developments in one domain affect the other. The study findings echo that the interplay between aeolian- and marine-driven morphodynamics could play a relevant role when predicting sandy NBS. • Predicting nearshore–dune morphodynamics is enabled with a new 2D coupling framework. • The model reproduces the Sand Engine's dynamics in both marine and aeolian domains. • Alongshore varying marine sediment transport influences foredune growth patterns. • Marine alongshore transport is slightly reduced by aeolian transport into the dunes. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The problem of local scour around a submarine pipeline is vital for oil and gas projects. Conventional scour models around pipeline practically include the flow and sediment transport characteristics, but they ignore the interactions between flow and seabed soil in the scouring process. In this study, a new two-dimensional model for simulating the scouring process is established while considering the impact of the wave-induced soil response and the associated seepage. With the present model, the influence of seepage and soil response on the modified Shields number, repose angle and prediction of the local scour depth and profile are examined. The numerical results indicate that the influence of repose angle when modified by seepage in the whole scour process is small. Meanwhile, the wave-induced dynamic soil response promotes the development of the scour profile and eventually increases the maximum scour depth to some extent, regardless of the change in the soil characteristics. However, at smaller KC numbers, the variations in the maximum scour depth with seabed properties become more significant. [Display omitted] • A novel scour model considering soil response is numerically established in OpenFOAM. • The shape of the scour hole is asymmetrical due to the asymmetrical horizontal flow velocity. • The maximal scour depth with the soil response is larger than that without the soil response. • The difference in S / D with and without soil response would decrease with increasing in the KC number. • The soil response should be considered for a smaller shear modulus, lower soil permeability, and lower saturation. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This paper presents the use of an Eulerian–Eulerian multi-phase model to examine sediment transport over a gravel beach under regular waves. A previously published full-scale experiment is reproduced numerically; the simulated wave deformation, flow velocity, pore pressure, and morphological evolution are consistent with measurements. The multi-phase model can produce berm formation for smaller waves and beach erosion for larger waves as observation in previous field studies. The sensitivity analysis suggests that the nonlinear component of drag has significant effect on the berm formation through infiltration and exfiltration. The two simulated forces applied on the sediment (drag and buoyancy) are examined. The drag is the main force directly for sediment transport; therefore the sediment transport rate has high correlation with depth-averaged flow velocity. The buoyancy that is caused by plunging flow impacting beach face can push the sediment landward in the bore front, where the flow acceleration has its peak. The flow acceleration is considered in some previous sediment transport models empirically for simulating morphological evolution of gravel beach under waves. The buoyancy links the flow acceleration and sediment transport rate in the bore front. • Sediment transport in a gravel beach is simulated using a multiphase model. • The drag is the main force directly for sediment transport. • The buoyancy links the flow acceleration and sediment transport rate in the bore front. • The nonlinear drag has the effect on berm formation. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Sediment motion on rippled bed under wave action plays an important role in coastal landforms, but the application of traditional numerical model is limited by large computational work or bottom sediment condition due to unsteady effects. A single-phase model is proposed to maintain low computation and high accuracy for the vortex structure development and suspended sediment motion on vortex rippled bed in wave-induced oscillatory flow. The 2D bottom sediment condition takes into account the acceleration effect and asymmetric boundary layer development under nonlinear waves as well as the sediment phase-lag. The particle inertia and wake flow around sediment particle are considered in sediment turbulence, and the SST k - ω turbulence model which is suitable for inverse pressure gradient flow on rippled bed is selected to close the Reynolds stress. The single-phase model well predicts the velocity on vortex ripples, periodic concentration at fixed points and vertical distribution of averaged sediment concentration. The results show qualitative formation, development and ejection of vortex, and demonstrate quantitative development of vortex center, radius and strength in symmetric and asymmetric flows. In addition, the model well performs the development of sediment cloud referring to vortex structure. • Efficient numerical model is developed for oscillatory sediment transport on vortex ripple and sheet flow. • Bottom sediment condition performs acceleration effect, asymmetric boundary layer and phase-lag. • Particle inertia and wake flow around particle are considered in sediment turbulence. • SST k - ω turbulence model is applied for inverse pressure gradient flow on vortex ripple. • Results show quantitative development of vortex structure and associated sediment cloud. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Storm surge, a major disaster in coastal areas, is generated by tropical cyclones. Strong currents and waves during storm surges often cause sediment transport and beach erosion, significantly damaging the coastal ecosystem. This paper presents a flow-wave-sediment-morphodynamic coupled model to predict morphodynamic changes caused by overwash during storm surges. In the model, the flow field is calculated using the generalized shallow water equations coupled with the Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN) model, while sediment transport and bed changes are computed using a non-equilibrium total-load sediment transport model. The model solves the governing equations by employing the explicit finite-volume approach based on a rectangular mesh. The Godunov-type central upwind scheme is adopted to calculate the interface fluxes, thereby solving the complex Riemann problem. A series of numerical experiments considering wave-induced longshore current and short-term bed erosion are conducted to validate the established model and demonstrate its ability to simulate waves, flow fields, and bed changes during storm surge. Specifically, we used the model to simulate the morphological evolution of the Santa Rosa barrier island caused by Hurricane Ivan's storm surge, and the results indicate that the model accurately predicts the real-case erosion process caused by storm surge and overwash during the hurricane. The simulated results clearly explain overwash development, including washover fans, foredune erosion, and back-barrier deposition. It demonstrates that the front dune significantly eroded with the Santa Rosa barrier island coastline retreating by a maximum of about 80 m during the storm surge. More than three breaches with a width of up to 135 m were formed on the sandy barrier due to wave overwash, while the topography at the breach changed significantly. • A new flow-wave-sediment-morphodynamic coupled model is developed to predict morphodynamic changes caused by overwash during storm surges. • A series of numerical experiments conducted using the new model demonstrates its ability and it successfully predicts the overwash erosion of the Santa Rosa barrier island during Hurricane Ivan's storm surge. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

To mitigate land losses in the Mississippi River Delta, sediment diversions are being employed to enable the flow of river water and sediments into wetlands experiencing degradation. A two-dimensional coupled flow-wave Delft3D model was used in this study to explore the hydrodynamics and sediment transport in Fourleague Bay (FLB), Louisiana, USA, which has been considered an analog site for studying the efficiency of sediment diversion projects. In-situ measurements of sediment accretion and hydrodynamic characteristics from 2015 to 2016 were utilized to calibrate and validate the morphodynamic model. The validated model was then applied to quantify sediment transport in FLB and surrounding marshes between May 2015 and May 2016. The results show that more sediment could be deposited to the surrounding marshes with high river discharges and strong winds. Thus, by strategically aligning the timing of pulses of river water from the diversion with the seasonal intensification of atmospheric forcing, it is possible to sustain and promote the growth of the surrounding wetlands. Moreover, we found that multiple sediment transport processes occurred during the entire study period, including the deposition of riverine sediment into the bay floor, direct deposition of riverine sediment in the surrounding marshes, resuspension of bay floor sediment, and redistribution of resuspended sediment to adjacent marshes and the Gulf of Mexico (GoM). The results indicate that the riverine sediment tended to be directly deposited in the marshes when the river discharge was high. During calm weather conditions and normal river discharge, FLB acted as a reservoir, storing sediment from the upper river, and later acted as a sediment source to the nearby wetlands and the GoM during energetic atmospheric conditions. This suggests that using the bay floor as a reservoir can extend the distance over which wetlands can benefit from the sediment diversions, as the supply of sediment to the wetlands becomes a multi-step process. Thus, it is important to retain sediments from river diversions in shallow bays and allow storms to redistribute them to adjacent wetlands. • A morphodynamic model was developed to understand the fine sediment dispersal process from a river to coastal wetlands. • The model was calibrated and validated using unique measurements of hydrodynamics and sediment accretion rates. • More sediment could be deposited to the surrounding marshes with high river discharges and strong winds. • Sediment deposited on the surrounding marshes was primarily from the river and bay floor. • Riverine sediment tends to be directly deposited onto the marshes during high discharge stages. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Dune erosion during storm surges can lead to excessive damage to the dune system with devastating floods as a potential consequence. A risk assessment of areas protected by dunes can be facilitated by an understanding and description of the physical processes that take place. Field measurements, knowledge of underlying processes and numerical modelling have developed with time, which enabled a more comprehensive description and new predictive techniques. This review concerns dune erosion in the collision regime, and summarises relevant observations, describes underlying processes and explains existing models predicting dune erosion. Observations of dune erosion consist of field observations, laboratory experiments and manipulative field campaigns. The underlying physical processes that contribute to dune erosion are divided into processes that contribute to sediment transport due to hydrodynamic forcing, which occurs in the surf and swash zone, and sediment transport due to avalanching, which occurs in the swash zone, on the dune face and on the dune crest. The existing dune erosion models that are discussed here contain (empirical) equilibrium profile models and process-based models, which can both be a valuable tool for the risk assessment of storm surges. However, model uncertainties still remain, as specific processes are not yet fully understood and described. Examples are the influences of wave obliquity, sediment grain size, and vegetation on the dune face. By improving our knowledge through research and reducing these uncertainties, we can further improve our predictive models. This could eventually lead to more accurate predictions, more complete risk assessments, and sandy coastlines which are more resilient to excessive dune erosion and possible floods. • Reviews dune erosion during storm surges in the collision regime. • Summarises relevant field and laboratory observations • Summarises underlying hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes • Summarises existing dune erosion models. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Local scour induced by tidal flow is a major hazard for sea-crossing bridge foundations in coastal areas. The irregular tidal flow and silt-muddy seabed environment generates a very complicated flow turbulence and sediment transport. This paper, for the first time, presents the field measured scour holes around the Hangzhou Bay Sea-Crossing Bridge (HBSB) under irregular tidal flow dominated water regions. The high-resolution seabed topography around 19 bridge foundations in the south waterway of HBSB is measured from 2015 to 2020 by using a multi-beam sonar system. The field measured data are analyzed to investigate the local scour characteristics under irregular tidal flows. Results indicate that under irregular tidal flows with stronger flood tide, the local scour hole around every bridge foundation is slightly asymmetric and the scour depth downstream is larger than that upstream. The slope angles at upstream, downstream and lateral sides of local scour hole are about 13°～18°, which are much smaller than the Angle of Repose (AoR = 35°) due to bidirectional scouring generated by tidal flows. During 2015～2020, the maximum scour depths around all bridge foundations range between 1.2 D e ～2.5 D e (where D e being the effective diameter of bridge foundation). The maximum scour depths vary frequently with a fluctuation within 0.6 De. Comparison between the field measured and predicted scour depth using three available scour depth predication equations show that all prediction equations overestimate the scour depth. As such, considering the discount effect of the varied tidal flow compared with steady current, an improved maximum scour depth prediction equation is proposed to estimate the scour depth under tidal flow on a silty seabed. Results show that the predicted scour depth using the proposed equation has a relative error of ±30%. • High quality field scour data around bridge foundations under irregular tidal flows are presented. • Slope angle of scour hole under tidal flows is smaller than the Angle of Repose. • An improved prediction equation for scour depth around bridge foundations under clear-water and live-bed tidal flow condition on silty seabed is proposed. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In nearshore areas, waves change direction due to refraction in shallowing water. Wave angles spatially evolve across this zone, however local variability is challenging to capture with in-situ sensors. In this study, X-band radar (XBR) remote sensing, a phase-resolving numerical model (SWASH), and in-situ observations with acoustic wave and current sensors are combined to assess nearshore wave angles during three storm events. Two new methods of estimating the spatial distribution of wave angles are developed to enable direct comparison of the model results and the remote sensing observations. The results indicate that wave angle estimates from SWASH and XBR are similar and accurate within the directional resolution of in-situ sensors. Differences between the two estimates can occur in areas of high bathymetric variability or regions of low radar backscatter intensity. When waves are breaking over shallow bathymetric features, such as a sand bar, both SWASH and XBR capture a sharp increase in directional spreading. Different types of offshore wave boundary conditions were also investigated, and it was found that when forced with observed directional spectra, SWASH limits the directional spreading compared to when it is forced with bulk wave statistics and JONSWAP spectra. The high spatial variability of local wave angles observed and simulated in this study suggests that wave directions should be more carefully investigated, and may have implications for nearshore sediment transport, morphological change, wave impact forces and wave power estimates. • A wave model and radar observations are used to investigate wave directions. • New methods calculate spatially-continuous estimates of surface wave angles. • Results agree with in-situ data and reveal high variability in wave directions. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Empirical formulations for the engineering prediction of equilibrium scour depths, as well as time scales (for both scour and backfilling), are re-visited for monopiles. Following prior work, it is argued on physical grounds that dimensionless time scales ought to scale proportionally to the Shields parameter raised to the − 3 / 2 power, based on scaling common to numerous sediment transport rate formulae. This is in contrast to stronger power dependence found in many existing formulations based on laboratory experiments, which may become unreliable when extrapolated to (storm/strong) field scales. In light of this, existing data sets for scour and backfilling time scales are re-analyzed. Novel parameterizations are developed for their prediction which are in line with the argument above, while maintaining similar coherency with existing data as in previous parameterizations. Re-analysis of existing data sets for equilibrium scour depths is likewise performed. An existing framework valid for slender monopiles is extended to incorporate the so-called large monopile regime (non-negligible diffraction), especially important e.g. for modern wind turbine installations. • Existing parameterizations of scour and backfilling time scales are reparametrized. • Suggested time scales scale according to the Shields parameter to the −3/2 power. • Existing framework for predicting equilibrium scour depth is extended to include large monopiles. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The world's shallow continental shelves are currently experiencing a rapid pace of development from the growth of offshore renewable energy. The emplacement of infrastructure on the seabed can change the morphology of the bed, the nature of the flow above it the transport of sediment, and so complicate the assessment of seabed stability for planning and designing offshore renewable infrastructure. To ascertain how much of an impact these natural processes have on the stability of cables, we present the first field observations made directly over a section of subsea cable, from two deployments in the Eastern Irish Sea at a location of current and planned offshore windfarms. Profiles of flow, turbulence and suspended sediment concentration were measured over a section of typical high voltage electricity cable. Upon deployment our observations showed that sediment was deposited around the cable and self-burial occurred. The rate of deposition varied between surveys dependent on forcing and local bed conditions. Turbulence generated from the cable itself reduced as the embedment depth increased, but the relationship between bed shear stress and suspended sediment concentration was not consistent between surveys. We discuss several processes potentially responsible for the prevalence of deposition around the cable, and the difference in seabed mobility between the surveys. • Field surveys quantified mean flow, turbulence and suspended sediments around a section of seafloor electricity cable. • Deposition around the cable occurred at all initial embedment depths, but rates of deposition varied between surveys. • Seabed mobility varied between surveys beyond any variation due to grain size and affected the rate of cable burial. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The risks posed by local scour around offshore monopile foundations are substantial and threaten the structural safety of these installations. It is therefore essential to study the mechanisms of local scour to mitigate these risks. Numerical simulation is an effective tool to help us understand the mechanisms of local scour. However, the accurate modeling of the local scour process remains to be challenging due to the complexity of sediment transportation, in which the continuity threatment of sediment phase is typically used, the discrete behavior of the sediment is hard to be described. Therefore, in this paper, in order to conduct the deepin investigation into the mechanism of the local scour around monopile, a three-dimensional CFD-DEM model was established by coupling the computational fluid dynamic method (CFD) and discrete element method (DEM). To increase the efficiency and accuracy of the CFD-DEM model, the coarse grain method (CGM) was used to decrease the number of required DEM particles in the simulation, and the angle of repose was used to calibrate the contact parameters between DEM particles. During the validation process of the numerical model, it was found that the development of the scour depth and the morphology of scour pit obtained by the CFD-DEM model showed good agreement with the previously published results. The CFD-DEM simulation revealed that seepage-induced vertical drag force plays a crucial role in the initial stage of local scour. Two sediment transportation processes, "Pile toe erosion-Slope avalanche" and "Push-Accumulation-Wash", were observed and the relationship between bedload sediment flux and the Shields number was quantified. In the end of this paper, the critical evaluation of the CFD-DEM method was conducted. • The first time that the CFD-DEM method is used to research the sediment motion during the local scour around monopile. • The coarse grain method is used to improve the efficiency of CFD-DEM coupling method. • The seepage-induced vertical drag force was proved to be crucial in the early stage of local scour around monopile. • The "Pile toe erosion-Slope avalanche" and "Push-Accumulation-Wash" process of sediment transportation were observed. • A method is proposed to convert the parameters of discrete phase into the continuous phase parameters. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Short-crested breaking waves that result from directionally spread wave conditions dissipate energy and generate turbulence within the surf zone, altering sediment transport processes, wave runup, and forces on structures. Additionally, vertical vorticity generated near crest ends during breaking, which depends on the gradient in wave height along a crest, may enhance nearshore dispersion of pollutants, nutrients, and larvae. Although directionally spread irregular wave fields are ubiquitous on ocean and large lake coastlines, the dependence of short-crested breaking wave characteristics (including the along-crest length and number of crest ends) on offshore wave conditions is not well established. To assess this relationship, laboratory experiments with alongshore-uniform barred bathymetry were performed in a large-scale directional wave basin. A three-dimensional scanning lidar, trinocular camera stereo processing methods, and in situ measurements were used to study short-crested wave field breaking characteristics in the laboratory, yielding a dataset with dense spatio-temporal coverage relative to prior laboratory or field measurements. Wave height estimates are similar for remotely sensed and in situ observations, except in the outer surf zone where plunging breaking occurred. Directional wave properties estimated with an array of in situ or remotely sensed sea-surface elevation estimates are similar and yield smaller directional spreads than single-point colocated pressure and velocity based in situ estimates when waves are less directionally spread. Using a breaking crest identification procedure combining visible imagery and stereo sea-surface elevation, we find that the average along-crest length of breaking waves decreases and the average number of crest ends increases with increasing directional spread. Relative to observations, a parameterized relationship between directional spread and crest characteristics based on theory for non-breaking, refracting waves generally over-estimates breaking crest lengths and is similar to or underestimates the total number of crest ends observed in the surf zone. The wave-field-dependent breaking-wave characteristics examined in the laboratory with remote sensing techniques can inform future investigations of depth-limited short-crested wave breaking and resulting surfzone eddy processes. • Wave basin generated directionally spread waves were measured with remote sensing. • Stereo reconstructions and LiDAR measurements are similar to in situ observations. • Breaker along-crest length and number of ends were estimated with remote sensing. • Average breaker along-crest length decrease with increasing directional spread. • Parameterized crest length and number of ends trend similarly to observations. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Training walls to improve navigability at river mouths alter natural sediment transport regimes, occasioning morphological changes in the nearby littoral zone. In addition, harbor channels and shorelines are susceptible to on-going changes in global circulation conditions and large-scale engineering interventions. Here we present a process-based modeling approach to determine the relationship between spatial patterns of erosion and deposition, seasonal river discharge, and the geometry of coastal defenses. The study uses the Magdalena River delta as an example, where the redistribution of freshwater and sediments after the construction of the "Tajamar" training wall heralded significant morphological changes in the area. The numerical experiments are used to describe how the erosion and deposition patterns within the estuary and delta of the Magdalena River are linked to the seasonal cycle of the Magdalena River and to the geometry of the hard structures. We demonstrate that the construction of the Tajamar and complementary hard structures would have decreased depositional fluxes in the littoral zone, leading to the observed shoreline retreat and disappearance of an extensive coastal lagoon system. It is shown that an aperture in the training walls may help restore the wetlands without compromising navigability. In addition, projected increases in mean sea level are shown to decrease velocities within the lower estuary, potentially causing increased sedimentation within the channel and more complex conditions for the management of safe navigation over the Magdalena River estuary. • Seawall construction on the Magdalena River, Colombia, resulted in the redistribution of freshwater and sediments. • Numerical experiments provide evidence that shoreline retreat was caused by the altered sedimentation regime. • A diversion system in the training walls may help restore sediment supply to the shorelines without risking navigability. • Sea level rise may increase rates of sedimentation within the estuary. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A reduced-scale mobile-bed model is employed in a series of flume experiments to investigate the evolution of a submerged berm under low-energy irregular waves. Sixteen flume tests are conducted on the same submerged berm model under different wave conditions, and the bed elevations and water surface elevations are recorded along the profile during the tests. The results are analyzed comprehensively and compared to those under regular wave conditions from a previous study. Generally, no bulk evolution of the submerged berm is observed, and large wave periods lead to wavy profile shape and offshore sediment transport. The wavy profile can be found under both regular and irregular wave conditions, while the offshore transport is only observed under irregular wave conditions. Two major evolution patterns are extracted with the Empirical Orthogonal Function (EOF) analysis, including the decrease of the crest elevation and offshore sediment transport to the seaward-side slope, both of which are impacted to a larger degree by wave period than wave height. A cross-shore analysis is conducted on the wave hydrodynamic parameters and sediment transport parameters, based on which the differences in the evolution of the submerged berm under small and large wave periods are explained. This paper proposes new insights on the evolution of submerged berms under low-energy irregular waves and provides a new perspective to explain different behaviors of submerged berms via a comparison with the test results under low-energy regular waves from previous studies. • The evolution of a submerged berm under low-energy irregular waves are studied via a series of flume tests. • The behaviors of the submerged berm under irregular wave and regular wave conditions are compared. • Large wave period leads to offshore sediment transport under low-energy irregular waves. • The submerged berm exhibits two major evolution patterns: a crest elevation decrease and the offshore sediment transport. • The variations in cross-shore H s , Sk v and Sk a account for the differences in the evolution of the submerged berm. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this study the numerical model Delft3D is implemented on high-resolution grids to evaluate beach morphological response to groins and submerged breakwaters under sea-breeze conditions. The numerical model is compared with field measurements from three sites on the northern Yucatan coast of Mexico. At these sites, relatively low energy waves with significant wave heights arrive at a steep oblique angle to the coast that drives high sediment transport rates. After calibration of the model, by adjustment of model free parameters, the model results show accurate representations of the diurnal variation of hydrodynamic conditions (wave height and current velocity) driven by the daily sea-breezes. Moreover, the morphodynamic model shows a good representation of the rapid morphological changes, particularly of the accretion pattern caused by a temporary groin and the subsequent recovery following the structure removal. However, erosion patterns at the downdrift areas of structures were not reproduced, owing to the numerical model limitations of simulating swash morphodynamics. Model validation with field observations of the beach response behind submerged breakwaters enabled the model to be used for a parametric study. Following previous work, new equations are developed in the present study that show an improvement for predicting shoreline changes near submerged breakwaters under sea-breeze conditions. Despite the limitations in reproducing downdrift erosion, overall the high-resolution modelling approach satisfactorily simulates the hydrodynamic and the updrift accretion responses to coastal structures on sandy beaches with oblique waves. • Simulations of beach change near groins and submerged breakwaters are performed. • Results are compared to measurements at three sites with high sediment transport rates. • New equations show improved prediction of shoreline change near submerged structures. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A submerged, low-relief nearshore berm was constructed in the Pacific Ocean near the mouth of the Columbia River, USA, using 216,000 m3 of sediment dredged from the adjacent navigation channel. The material dredged from the navigation channel was placed on the northern flank of the ebb-tidal delta in water depths between 12 and 15 m and created a distinct feature that could be tracked over time. Field measurements and numerical modeling were used to evaluate the transport pathways, time scales, and physical processes responsible for dispersal of the berm and evaluate the suitability of the location for operational placement of dredged material to enhance the sediment supply to eroding beaches onshore of the placement site. Repeated multibeam bathymetric surveys characterized the initial berm morphology and dispersion of the berm between September 22, 2020, and March 10, 2021. During this time, the volume of sediment within the berm decreased by about 40%to 127,000 m3, the maximum height decreased by almost 60%, and the center of the deposit shifted onshore over 200 m. Observations of berm morphology were compared with predictions from a three-dimensional hydrodynamic and sediment transport model application to refine poorly constrained model input parameters including sediment transport coefficients, bed schematization, and grain size. The calibrated sediment transport model was used to predict the amount, timing, and direction of transport outside of the observed survey area. Model simulations predicted that tidal currents were weak in the vicinity of the berm and wave processes including enhanced bottom stresses and asymmetric bottom orbital velocities resulted in dominant onshore movement of sediment from the berm toward the coastline. Roughly 50% of the berm volume was predicted to disperse away from the initial placement site during the 169 day hindcast. Between 9 and 17% of the initial volume of the berm was predicted to accumulate along the shoreface of a shoreline reach experiencing chronic erosion directly onshore of the placement site. Scenarios exploring alternate placement locations suggested that the berm was relatively effective in enhancing the sediment supply along the eroding coastline north of the inlet. The transferable monitoring and modeling framework developed in this study can be used to inform implementation of strategic nearshore placements and regional sediment management in complex, high-energy coastal environments elsewhere. • The morphology and dispersion of a nearshore berm was quantified with repeated mulitbeam bathymetry surveys. • A three-dimensional hydrodynamic and sediment transport model was calibrated based on observations of berm morphology. • Calibrated model hindcast simulations accurately predicted observed changes in berm morphology. • Model predictions used to predict fate of berm sediment and quantify amount of sediment supplied to to eroding coastline. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In shallow coastal regions, shoaling waves and current together determine the net sediment transport rate, Q n e t , which is critical for understanding coastal morphodynamics. Moderate waves produce vortex ripples on a sandy seabed, which dramatically changes local wave–current interaction. This study aims at improving our understanding of Q n e t and boundary layer flow under collinear wave–current flow over a rippled bed. Two sets of full-scale experiments were conducted using an oscillatory water tunnel, which approximates wave as sinusoidal oscillatory flow. The live-bed tests, in which 2-dimensional sand ripples were produced over a coarse-sand bed, provided measurements of Q n e t and visual observations of flow-sediment interaction. Q n e t under the same wave condition changes from against-current to following-current as the co-existing current increases, which agrees with some previous experiments. In the fixed-bed tests, which have fixed concrete model ripples covered by sandpapers, the detailed flow fields were measured using a particle image velocimetry. The results reveal that the current enlarges the spanwise coherent vortex (SCV) under the positive half cycle (wave and current velocities are co-directional), but reduces the SCV in the negative half cycle. Using turbulence intensity as a proxy for sediment concentration, how ripple-averaged sand flux changes with the current condition was discussed. Under a weak current, the two SCVs are slightly changed, and the key flow feature is still the formation-ejection process of SCVs, so an against-current Q n e t is produced due to the phase-lag effect. Under a strong current, the SCV in the positive half cycle is significantly enlarged by the current, and it brings sand to high levels before its ejection, which makes the phase-lag effect less important than the current advection, so Q n e t becomes following-current. • Full-scale live/fixed-bed tests of wave–current flow over ripples were conducted. • Spanwise vortex is enlarged/reduced when the wave flow follows/opposes the current. • Flux of turbulence is analysed to interpret the direction of net sand transport. • Phase-lag effect leads to a negative sand transport rate under a weak current. • Current advection determines a positive sand transport rate under a strong current. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Coastal dunes provide many ecosystem services including protection of infrastructure from wave overtopping and habitat for native species. Foredunes grow at different rates and assume different forms (i.e., short and wide to tall and narrow) depending on a range of factors including pre-existing beach and dune morphology, wind, wave, and water levels, sediment grain size, and vegetation characteristics, yet the relative importance of these factors on foredune growth is understudied. Here, we quantify foredune evolution (2016–2019) and explore the relative influence of a suite of metocean, sedimentary, and ecological factors for dune growth on three barrier islands in the U.S. North Carolina Outer Banks (Cape Lookout National Seashore). We incorporate observed and hindcast wind, wave, and water level data into the process-based, coupled beach-dune evolution model, Windsurf, to explore the relative contribution of factors likely to influence foredune growth at the annual timescale (2016–2017). Our cross-shore topographic profile observations show varied interannual foredune change rates and characteristics, including horizontal retreat and progradation at the dune toe and vertical erosion and accretion at the dune crest. Model results indicate that, of the factors explored, pre-existing morphology had the greatest influence on the type of foredune growth that occurred (i.e., incipient dune development, widening of the dune, and/or vertical accretion), which dramatically altered the final shape of the dune. Variations in wind and wave climates were associated with the relative contribution of marine- and aeolian-driven bed elevation changes and were particularly influential during storms. In addition, increases in the minimum elevation of vegetation on the dune profile (analogous to the cross-shore distance between the shoreline and established vegetation line, i.e., the vegetation limit, as coined by Duran and Moore, 2013) increased dune crest height and dune volume. Moreover, variations in the minimum vegetation elevation resulted in a larger range of dune crest elevations and dune volumes than differences in the median sand grain size. We suggest that insights into the relative influence of metocean, sedimentary, and ecological factors to dune growth can assist in the development of practical coastal management strategies. • Pre-existing beach-dune morphology had the largest influence on dune growth type. • Exposure to the dominant wave direction led to increased dune volume. • Higher minimum vegetation elevation and finer sand resulted in taller dunes. • Minimum vegetation elevation influenced dune growth more than sand grain size. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The performance of a recently developed "stabilized" turbulence (k − ω) closure model, which avoids un-physical over-production of turbulence prior to wave breaking, is investigated in the computational fluid dynamics (CFD) simulation of cross-shore sediment transport and breaker bar morphology. Comparisons are made with experiments as well as results from simulations employing (otherwise identical) "standard" turbulence closure. The stabilized turbulence model is demonstrated to result in major (qualitative and quantitative) improvements of the predicted breaker bar position and height. Conversely, the established over-production of turbulence in the standard closure, coupled with associated inaccurate undertow structure in the outer surf zone, contribute to erroneous offshore migration of the breaker bar. By correcting these shortcomings, the stabilized turbulence closure model rightly predicts initial onshore morphological migration of the breaker bar without any calibration. This work thus establishes proper turbulence modeling as a prerequisite for accurate CFD prediction of cross-shore sediment transport and profile morphology. • A recently developed "stabilized" turbulence model is used to simulate morphology. • The stabilized turbulence model leads to accurate breaker bar position and height. • A standard turbulence model leads to erroneous offshore breaker bar migration. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Low-energy, non-tidal lake beaches are known to be subject to longshore morphodynamics, but little is known about how they are driven by wind and wave-driven currents. Lake Markermeer is a shallow (∼ 4 m deep), wind-dominated lake, of approximately 700 km 2. A gradient in wind-induced water level set-up at the leeward shore induces a flow from the shallower to the deeper parts of the lake, thereby generating a large-scale, horizontal circulation. Flow measurements and results from a numerical Delft3D model of the lake show that these circulations impact the nearshore currents greatly, even more than wave-driven longshore currents for most wind conditions. From nearshore measurements at the first study site in lake Markermeer, we found a clear relation between longshore sediment transport capacity and the measured longshore volume flux. The model numerical can predict flow direction and magnitude for any wind condition. Using wind statistics, the net transport capacity for a short period or a long term mean can be predicted. The relation is confirmed for a second study site, which shows a distinct net transport capacity that could not be explained from wave-driven longshore flow alone. Concluding, large-scale lake circulations are of great significance for the morphological development of low-energy, non-tidal beaches in shallow, wind-driven water bodies. Knowledge of these circulations and their dependence on wind characteristics is a crucial factor to better understand and predict sediment losses of lake beaches. • In wind-dominated lakes, bathymetrical variance causes water level set-up gradients. • In shallow lakes, set-up gradients can induce large-scale, horizontal circulations. • Large-scale lake circulations affect longshore sediment transport on lake beaches. • Longshore sediment transport has a significant impact on design and maintenance. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A fractional formula is proposed for graded sediment transport in wave-driven sheet flow. The formula considers phase lag, acceleration effect and asymmetric boundary layer development. The main parameters (erosion depth, boundary layer thickness, roughness height) are common for each fraction in the fractional formula. A fractional pseudo erosion depth is introduced to determine the individual sediment amount and concentration for different fractions. The formula includes a hiding-exposure factor of exposure height, which represents the selective transport of graded sediment and influences the phase lag. Two approaches (multiple fraction approach, MFA and grading curve approach, GCA) are applied to the formula to estimate total sediment transport rate. The graded sediment is sorted into specific fractions in the MFA, while divided into several equal fractions in the GCA. The formula is verified by instantaneous and net sediment transport rate data. The predictions of MFA and GCA are basically identical for instantaneous sediment transport rate and the overall accuracy is good. The gradation effect can increase or decrease the magnitude of instantaneous sediment transport rate, which depends on the behaviors and interactions of different fractions. Fractional net sediment transport rate is estimated by the formula with the MFA, which reasonably reproduces the onshore- or offshore-directed sediment transport for each fraction compared with existing formulae and numerical model. The performance of fraction number is discussed using the GCA. The proposed formula is capable of efficiently handling the graded sediment transport in wave-driven sheet flow. • Fractional formula is proposed for graded sediment transport in wave-driven sheet flow. • Gradation effect is included through hiding-exposure factor of exposure height. • Formula incorporates phase lag, acceleration effect and asymmetric boundary layer development. • Two approaches (MFA and GCA) are employed to handle total sediment transport. • Results reproduce promotion/inhibition and onshore/offshore sediment transport for each size fraction. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Beach accretion is the natural mechanism that allows dry beaches to recover. Human response to climate change produces hardening of the coasts and the incident marine climate, which increases beach erosion produced during winter and prevents a full recovery during summer. Beach nourishments are performed all around the world to fight coastal erosion with a nature-friendly philosophy. Softer techniques as beach scraping are also widely applied. A kind of beach scraping is proposed here as an innovative nature-assisted beach enhancement technique, that aims to accelerate naturally produced sand accretion on the beach profile. It consists of mechanically ploughing the intertidal area of a beach to create ridges and furrows. Prototype-scale laboratory experiments were performed to analyse its effectiveness under controlled conditions. Seven 1 h tests having different water levels and the same initial bottom geometry and sea state conditions (H s = 0.3 m, T p = 7 s) were performed. Sea state, sand, and initial slope characteristics assured accretive conditions. Ploughed and flatbed initial slope geometries were simultaneously tested into two sub-channels of the wave flume. The results indicate that the bottom roughness is 3.57 times larger for the ploughed geometry. Consequently, wave energy dissipation is larger for the ploughed geometry, and therefore, the significant wave height at the shoreward end of the study area is 11% smaller for the ploughed geometry. This smaller wave height under the ploughed morphology leads to more accretive conditions, as observed from the measured onshore sediment transport, which is 2.9 times larger than the natural transport, and the larger accreted sediment volume in all seven test cases. These results demonstrate the effectiveness of ploughing to enhance natural beach accretion under highly probable accretion conditions. Further research is required to define the thresholds of marine conditions in which the potential of beach ploughing can be exploded. • Working with nature. • Ploughing the intertidal area of a beach enhances natural accretion. • Real scale laboratory experiments measuring sediment transport. • Mechanically ploughing increases bed roughness. • Extra wave energy dissipation is produced by ploughing. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Experimental results involving shoreface nourishment scenarios are presented. The experiments are performed at small scale and the effects of nourishment placement and timing in relation to long-term cross-shore profile development are investigated. Four different nourishment scenarios are tested experimentally, with nourishment positioned both in the trough of a pre-developed profile as well as along the bar of the profile. The results demonstrate that under all scenarios the erosion of the shoreline slows relative to the case without nourishment. The two cases where the nourishment was placed along the bar reduced erosion of the shoreline more compared to the two cases with nourishment in the trough onshore of the bar. Compared to past experiments on nourishment presented in the literature, the present experiments were run for a longer duration, and the concepts of equilibrium profile and the development towards such an equilibrium were investigated. Curiously, the experiments showed a reversal of the sediment transport rate from being primarily offshore directed across the entire profile to onshore directed in the inner surf zone region closest to the shoreline. This reversal of transport rate occurred without changing the incoming wave conditions and resulted in deposition at the shoreline. This either questions the existence of equilibrium beach profiles or at the very least shows that the development towards such an equilibrium will not always be monotonic in time. • Shoreface nourishments are performed at model scale investigating the influence of timing and placement on long term profile development. • Placement of nourishment can disturb the cross-shore profile shape over long time. • After long time running with the same wave climate the transport rate changed from offshore directed to onshore directed in the inner surf zone. • The change in sign was related to cessation of wave-breaking and resulted in sand returning to an otherwise eroding beach. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Flooding and erosion are among the most relevant hazards for coastal regions and although they are linked, their inherent complexity has typically led them to be addressed separately, potentially leading to highly uncertain estimates. This paper has three aims: (a) to present a methodology for coupling coastal flood projections with shoreline changes; (b) to quantify the effects of neglecting the coupling of flooding and erosion on future projections at a case study location; and (c) to analyse the relative importance of the climate-related uncertainty sources. We use a suite of statistical, process-based, and physics-based models to generate and downscale storms, compute water levels affected by storm morphodynamics and long-term profile changes and propagate flooding over topo-bathymetries that are in turn modified to incorporate the impact of sea-level rise, longshore sediment transport and storm-driven erosion. We sample climate uncertainty by considering storm variability (synthetic generation) and ensembles of radiative forcing scenarios, regional climate models, and sea-level rise trajectories. For illustration purposes, we consider a 40-km coastal stretch in the Spanish Mediterranean. We find that if the effect of erosion is neglected, the mean values of the total water level and flooded area can be either over- or underestimated by up to 18% and 22%, and up to 7% and 85%, respectively, with respect to our coupled results. The factors that most influence total water levels are storm erosion and profile geometry, highlighting the relevance of using real profiles in shoreface translation. In the flooded area, longshore transport can play a fundamental enhancing role. We also find that the coupling approach used can contribute more to the projection of flooded areas than the choice of climate models and sea-level rise trajectories even by 2100 (up to 76% versus 8% and 16%, respectively). We conclude that neglecting erosion effects on coastal flooding can have management implications, especially for urban beaches, leading to poor adaptation planning and maladaptation. • We develop coupled coastal flooding and erosion projections for 2050 and 2 100. • We consider uncertainties in scenarios, climate models, storms, and sea-level rise. • Uncoupling erosion and flooding leads to biases in water levels and flooded areas. • Coupling erosion and flooding can affect flooded areas more than sea-level rise. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The boundary layer structure near the tip of dam-break waves, swash flow and tsunami, is important for understanding the shape and behavior of their tips and for sediment transport, which is observed under tips on mobile beds. In this study, the boundary layer structure near the dam-break tip on a dry, rough and horizontal bed was investigated experimentally. Horizontal velocities were obtained using advanced image processing techniques, and the concurrent bed shear stress was measured directly with a shear plate. The velocity structure is quantified in terms of the defect scale of horizontal velocity in the vertical direction δ defined by u (z) = u ∞ [ 1 − e − z δ ] , while the asymptotic velocity u ∞ is defined for each vertical so that the depth-averaged velocity equals the tip's speed of propagation. The experimental results indicate that the shape of the velocity profile changes rapidly with distance s from the contact point. The velocity profile is roughly linear very near the contact point corresponding to a rolling wheel or δ being much greater than the water depth. Further from the contact point, in our case, s / k s ≳ 0.42 , where k s is bed roughness, δ is only a fraction of the depth, and this fraction becomes constant, ca. 0.21, at distances greater than s/k s ≈ 1.67. Boundary layer growth as δ (s) ∝ s is in good agreement with the measured velocity profiles for s/k s ≳ 4. The concurrently measured bed shear stress after its peak can be well predicted with the proposed relationship δ (s) ∝ s . • A novel approach to study the boundary layer structure for the tip of highly unsteady dam-break wave using advanced image processing techniques and shear plate. • First time to derive ensemble-averaged velocity field near the tip of the unsteady dam-break wave. • The boundary layer structure δ (s) = a s − 1 + b s 0.5 was proposed, where s is the longitudinal distance from the contact point, a and b are constant. The model can provide a reasonable approximation to the measured velocities. • The exponential velocity defect in form e − z / δ with boundary layer structure δ (s) ∝ s can well predict the measured bed shear stress after its peak. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Long waves are amplified as short-wave groups shoal and break over reefs, therefore, having significant impacts on coastal inundation, structure stability, and sediment transport. This study investigated the cross-reef variation of long-wave energy exchange with short-wave group over a reef using fully nonlinear analysis of simulation results by the non-hydrostatic model SWASH. The objective was to elucidate the mechanisms of long-wave transformation under nonlinear short-wave group forcing over a reef, and to assess the consequences of simplifications in linear and weakly nonlinear analyses in this problem. The energy transfer between short and long waves is the work done by radiation stress on long-wave velocity. Unlike conventional linear and weakly nonlinear analysis, the Stokes transport and long-wave modulation of local water depth are included in the fully nonlinear analysis. It was found that only the long-wave energy flux gradient given by the fully nonlinear analysis was balanced by the work done by wave radiation stress over a shallow reef. The fully nonlinear analysis showed that strict mass conservation has to be used to extract long wave velocity properly. In contrast, in linear and weakly nonlinear analysis, the long-wave velocity is extracted from single-point velocity measurements. The fully nonlinear analysis demonstrated that the generation and growth of incoming breakpoint-forced long waves overcame the dissipation of bound long waves in the surf zone, leading to amplification of incoming long-wave energy flux. This phenomenon occurred even when short waves mainly broke over the horizontal reef flat with large submergence, indicating that long-wave evolution is not locally controlled but dependent on wave spatial evolution history. Outgoing breakpoint-forced long waves were dissipated considerably during de-shoaling over the forereef due to substantial energy transfer to incoming short waves, though both of them are free waves. The consistent phase coupling between outgoing long waves and incoming short-wave groups at all frequencies was found to be the primary driving mechanism for the energy transfer. According to the fully nonlinear analysis, the reef-flat submergence may affect the long wave in a complex fashion, i.e. , reducing the submergence may enhance the energy transfer from short waves to long waves or suppress long-wave growth by increasing its frictional dissipation at the same time. • Long-wave energy balance is achieved with fully nonlinear analysis. • Strict mass conservation has to be used to extract long-wave velocity properly. • Long wave amplitude is dependent on short-wave spatial evolution history. • Radiation stress does positive work on incoming long waves in surf zone. • Free outgoing long waves transfer energy to incoming short waves in shoaling zone. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A moderate-size (344,000 m3) subaerial beach nourishment was placed in 2012 in front of flood-prone homes at Imperial Beach, California. The subaerially persistent coarser-than-native nourishment sand spread alongshore over a ∼ 4 km span. By winter 2018/19 subaerial sand volumes in front of the flood-prone homes were eroded to near pre-nourishment levels, while sand accumulated near a river mouth ∼ 1.5 km to the south. The observed alongshore patterns of post-nourishment erosion/accretion are consistent with the modeled convergence/divergence of alongshore currents driven by wave radiation stress S x y gradients associated with refraction over a relic cobble ebb shoal. The same alongshore patterns of subaerial erosion/accretion were observed in the 6 years preceding the nourishment, indicating a wave-driven erosion hotspot in front of the flood-prone homes, and an accretion hotspot near the region of river mouth migration. Over the 13-yr observation period, the river mouth migrated 600 m southward and closed in 2016, possibly owing to nourishment sand and El Niño intensified local drift convergence. The computationally efficient drift (radiation stress) gradient model uses simplified wave and surfzone dynamics, assumes proportionality between alongshore sediment transport and the radiation stress component S x y , but nevertheless captures the overall patterns of alongshore nourishment evolution and provides a framework to inform sand management. • The subaerial influence of relatively coarse beach nourishment sand spans 4 km of coast 6 years after placement. • Accretion and erosion hotspots are persistent, 6 years before and after nourishment. • A simple drift divergence model that captures refraction over an ebb shoal describes the alongshore variable sand volume trends. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Hybrid 2D/one-line shoreline models are becoming increasingly applied over the mesoscale (101–102 years; 101–102 km) to inform coastal management. These models typically apply the one-line theory to simulate changes in shoreline morphology based on littoral drift gradients calculated from a 2DH coupled wave, flow, and sediment transport model. However, the key boundary conditions needed to effectively apply hybrid 2D/one-line models and their applicability beyond simple planform morphologies are uncertain, which can potentially comprise coastal management decisions. To address these uncertainties, an extensive numerical modelling campaign is carried out to both assess the sensitivity and calibrate an advanced hybrid 2D/one-line model (MIKE21) against six variables in three different sandy coastal system morphologies: (a) a simple planform morphology with a gentle sloping profile, (b) a simple planform morphology with a steep sloping profile, and (c) a complex planform morphology. The six variables considered include nearshore discretisation, bathymetry, bed friction, sand grain diameter, sand porosity, sediment grading, and the weir coefficient of hard defence structures. Five key conclusions are derived from the sensitivity testing and calibration results. First , the optimal boundary conditions for modelling shoreline evolution vary according to coastal geomorphology and processes. Second , specifying boundary conditions within physically realistic ranges does not guarantee reliable shoreline evolution predictions. Third , nearshore discretisation should be treated as a typical calibration parameter as (a) the finest discretisation does not guarantee the most accurate predictions, and (b) defining a discretisation based on process length scales also does not guarantee reliable predictions. Fourth , hybrid 2D/one-line models are not valid for application in complex planform morphologies plausibly because of the one-line theory assumption of a spatially invariable closure depth. Fifth , hybrid 2D/one-line models have limited applicability in simple planform morphologies where the active beach profile is subject to direct human modification, plausibly due to the one-line theory assumption of a constant time-averaged coastal profile form. These findings provide key theoretical insights into the drivers of shoreline evolution in sandy coastal systems, which have practical implications for refining the continued application of shoreline evolution models. • The hybrid 2D/one-line shoreline modelling approach is tested in three coastal morphologies. • Optimal boundary conditions correspond to observed coastal morphology. • The nearshore discretisation in shoreline models should be treated as a calibration parameter. • The hybrid 2D/one-line shoreline modelling approach is limited to simple planform morphologies. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

We study the migration of natural sand bars that evolve in the nearshore by means of a new process-based wave-resolving, 2DH circulation model. In order to perform reliable and accurate computations, the robust Nonlinear Shallow Water Equations (NSWEs) hydro-morphodynamic solver of Brocchini et al. (2001) and Postacchini et al. (2012) implements a detailed description of the Bottom Boundary Layer (BBL) dynamics and a new predictor for the Suspended Sediment Transport (SST) based on the solution of a Depth-Averaged Advection-Diffusion Equation (DAADE) for the sediment concentration. The robustness and accuracy of the enhanced model are validated against literature theoretical, experimental, and numerical results, all comparisons highlighting good performances and clarifying the role of both BBL and SST contributions, the former one having a larger positive influence than the latter one on the results. Both original and enhanced models are, then, used to predict the evolution of the sand bar system that characterizes the nearshore of Senigallia (AN). The analysis leverages the field observations collected at such a site by means of the Sena Gallica Speculator video-monitoring system. Modeling of the storm-forced sand bar migration patterns reveals that: 1) the enhanced model can adequately reproduce the seaward migration of the sand bars of the system; 2) the process of shoreline retreat in coincidence with the generation of a new-born bar is well described; 3) inclusion of the BBL improves quantitative prediction of the bar crest migration; 4) the SST, beyond improving the prediction of the bar crest location, induces some smoothing of the bar profile, in line with the literature findings of SST being a stabilizing factor for the bar emergence. • Sand bar evolution in the nearshore zone is modeled using a process-based 2DH wave resolving NSWE model. • The model includes BBL dynamics and predicts the SST based on the depth-averaged advection-diffusion equation. • The model is validated against theoretical, experimental, and numerical results. • The model is used to predict the sandbar migration in the nearshore of Senigallia (AN) during a storm. • The developed model can accurately reproduce the sandbar evolution in both field and laboratory conditions. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The morphodynamics of orbital vortex ripples due to oscillatory flow and induced sediment transport was studied numerically. The methodology was based on large-eddy simulations of the full coupling of turbulent oscillatory fluid flow, bed and suspended sediment transport, and bed evolution. The Immersed Boundary method was implemented for the imposition of fluid and sediment boundary conditions on the mobile bed surface. Results are presented for ripple creation starting from flat or rippled beds, as well as results of ripples adapting to changing flow (wave) direction. The computed equilibrium ripple dimensions are in agreement with existing empirical predictions; however, the computed ripple profile is not as steep in the vicinity of the ripple crest as the analytical one in Sleath (1984). The time needed for the bed geometry to reach equilibrium, in cases where the initial bed is almost flat or it is formed by ripples that shorten towards equilibrium, is longer than in cases where the initial bed is formed by ripples that widen towards equilibrium. Moreover, the ripple crests are reoriented when the flow changes direction by 45°; the new equilibrium ripple crestline is perpendicular to the flow direction. Finally, the numerical results are compared with corresponding results of flow above fixed ripples. The bed load flux does not present substantial differences between the fixed and mobile bed cases. On the contrary, a strong increase of the suspended load flux is observed for the mobile bed case in comparison to the fixed bed case. • LES Coupling between oscillatory flow, sediment transport, and bed morphodynamics. • Same flow forcing results into same bed equilibrium regardless of initial bed form. • Evolution of ripples longer than equilibrium ones is slower than for shorter ones. • Ripples are reoriented perpendicular to the flow direction. • Suspended load over mobile rippled bed is larger than over fixed ripples. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Offshore pipelines are often suspended or partially-buried during operating process. Understanding the scouring mechanism of the suspended and partially-buried pipelines is important for protecting the pipelines. The numerical models of pipelines under steady flow are established, in which Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stocks equation (RANS) with the k-ω turbulence closure, as well as the sediment transport equation, are solved with the finite volume method. After experimental verification, the models are applied to a series of parametric analysis for the suspended and partially-buried pipelines under steady flow. The effect of different variables such as the pipe diameter D , the suspension height e , the pipe shape, the embedment depth, on the scour process of the pipelines are investigated in detail based on more than 150 simulation results. For the suspended pipelines, the gap-to-diameter ratio e / D is the key parameter to predict scour depth. The pipe shape has an influence on the scour depth and the position of the scour hole. A formula to predict scour depth in terms of e/D and the relation between gap velocity and scour depth is obtained. For the partially-buried pipelines, the block height and the curvature of the pipeline is proposed as the key parameters to analyze the flow field around the pipeline. • The numerical model of pipelines under steady flow are established and verified. • Effect of different parameters on scour process of offshore pipelines are studied. • Formula to predict scour depth in terms of e / D is proposed for suspended pipelines. • Block height and curvature are key data to analyze flow of partially-buried pipelines. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Engineered and natural submerged coastal structures (e.g., submerged breakwaters and reefs) modify incident wave fields and thus can alter hydrodynamic processes adjacent to coastlines. Although submerged structures are generally assumed to promote beach protection by dissipating waves offshore and creating sheltered conditions in their lee, their interaction with waves can result in mean wave-driven circulation patterns that may either promote shoreline accretion or erosion. Here, we analyse the mean flow patterns and shoreline water levels (wave runup) in the lee of idealised impermeable submerged structures with a phase-resolved nonhydrostatic numerical model. Waves propagating over submerged structures can drive either a 2-cell mean (wave-averaged) circulation, which is characterised by diverging flows behind the structure and at the shoreline, or 4-cell circulation, with converging flows at the shoreline and diverging flows in the immediate lee of the structure. The numerical results show that the mode of circulation can be predicted with a set of relationships depending on the incoming wave heights, the structure crest level, and distance to the shoreline (or structure depth). Qualitative agreement between the mean flow and proxies for the sediment transport using an energetics approach suggest that the mean flow can be a robust proxy for inferring sediment transport patterns. For the cases considered, the submerged structures had a minimal influence on shoreline wave setup and wave runup despite the wave energy dissipation by the structures due to alongshore wave energy fluxes in the lee. Consequently, these results suggest that the coastal protection provided by the range of impermeable submerged structures we modelled is primarily due to their capacity to promote beach accretion. • A phase-resolved model simulates hydrodynamic interactions with submerged structures. • Waves can drive 2-cell or 4-cell mean circulation and sediment transport patterns. • Bottom shear stresses presented an overall similar pattern to the mean currents. • We develop a predictor for the flow patterns based on wave and structure parameters. • The submerged structures had limited influence on shoreline setup and wave runup. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Fast ice affects many coastlines in high- and mid-latitude regions, shaping the coastal morphology by acting as both a protective barrier from winter storms and as an erosive agent through sediment entrainment and transport. It has been hypothesized that when sediment-rich ice is dislodged and transported beyond the depth of closure by storm waves, sediment is permanently removed from the nearshore, starving the littoral system and facilitating future erosion. However, despite this large potential impact on coastal sediment budgets, the rates and mechanisms of sediment-rich ice transport are poorly constrained. This study investigates the sediment entrainment process by fast ice, the mechanisms needed for ice mobilization, and the force needed to breakup and transport sediment-rich ice. We find that the Coulomb frictional strength of the sediment regulates the fast ice system and that the viscous rheology of the ice has no direct mechanical effect. Importantly, these results show that only the frictional coefficient of the beach sediment needs to be measured to estimate the resistive strength of the fast ice, significantly simplifying the requirements for evaluating the potential for fast ice mobilization and associated sediment transport. • Investigations on sediment entrainment and mobilization processes for fast ice. • Experiments reveal the force needed to breakup and transport sediment-rich ice. • The frictional strength of the sediment, not ice, regulates the fast ice system. • Blocks of ice with adhered sediment can be treated as a Coulomb material. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this work, a recently developed numerical model, capable of solving the hydro- and morphodynamics of the cross-shore beach profile, is used to gain insight into the relevant processes driving the generation of a breaker bar. The bedload and suspended sediment transport contributions are analysed separately. It has been shown that the bedload transport tends to accumulate sediment on the onshore side of the undertow detachment point, at a distance that depends on the skewness of the waves and the magnitude of the friction velocity, shaping the onshore face of the breaker bar. In contrast, the suspended transport contributes to the growth of the offshore side of the breaker bar. Besides, a comparison between the sediment transport rates produced by different types of breakers shows a faster bathymetric evolution and an offshore displacement of the position of the breaker bar for high Iribarren numbers. Differences are consistent with the proposed mechanisms driving the evolution of the beach profile. The findings of this work provide a better understanding of the processes driving the formation of breaker bars, how they interact with each other and the relative importance of bedload and suspended sediment transport at each location of the cross-shore profile. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]