1. Modelling beach morphological responses near coastal structures under oblique waves driven by sea-breezes.
- Author
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López-Ramade, Eduardo, Mulligan, Ryan P., Medellín, Gabriela, and Torres-Freyermuth, Alec
- Subjects
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BEACH erosion , *COASTAL changes , *BEACHES , *SHORELINES , *SUBMERGED structures , *SEDIMENT transport , *WAVE energy , *EROSION , *BREAKWATERS - Abstract
In this study the numerical model Delft3D is implemented on high-resolution grids to evaluate beach morphological response to groins and submerged breakwaters under sea-breeze conditions. The numerical model is compared with field measurements from three sites on the northern Yucatan coast of Mexico. At these sites, relatively low energy waves with significant wave heights arrive at a steep oblique angle to the coast that drives high sediment transport rates. After calibration of the model, by adjustment of model free parameters, the model results show accurate representations of the diurnal variation of hydrodynamic conditions (wave height and current velocity) driven by the daily sea-breezes. Moreover, the morphodynamic model shows a good representation of the rapid morphological changes, particularly of the accretion pattern caused by a temporary groin and the subsequent recovery following the structure removal. However, erosion patterns at the downdrift areas of structures were not reproduced, owing to the numerical model limitations of simulating swash morphodynamics. Model validation with field observations of the beach response behind submerged breakwaters enabled the model to be used for a parametric study. Following previous work, new equations are developed in the present study that show an improvement for predicting shoreline changes near submerged breakwaters under sea-breeze conditions. Despite the limitations in reproducing downdrift erosion, overall the high-resolution modelling approach satisfactorily simulates the hydrodynamic and the updrift accretion responses to coastal structures on sandy beaches with oblique waves. • Simulations of beach change near groins and submerged breakwaters are performed. • Results are compared to measurements at three sites with high sediment transport rates. • New equations show improved prediction of shoreline change near submerged structures. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2023
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