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Shape factors of a tight skirt and 3 kinds of flared skirts were investigated precisely. Shape factors of circular fabrics were calculated from mechanical parameters obtained by KES system, however, those of skirts were obtained experimentally. Those results were compared with drape parameters of circular fabrics such as node number (n), static (Ds) and dynamic drape coefficients as revolving drape increase coefficient (Dr), saturated drape coefficient (D200) and turning-around drape coefficient (Dd). They were also compared with node number and static drape coefficient of skits at hem line. Following conclusions were obtained. In the case of tight skirt, flare-1 skirt and flare-2 skirt, the shape factor showed high correlation with drape parameters of the skirts and circular fabrics. The shape factor of skirts has high positive correlation with node number and negative correlation with static drape coefficient of circular fabrics. In the case of flare-3 skirt, there is no correlation between the shape factor and the drape parameters of circular fabrics and skirts, hence shape factor becomes an important parameter which can evaluate the appearance of flared skirt objectively. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Prediction equations of appearance of flared skirts are derived by the multiple regression of various drape coefficients with subjectively evaluated data which was obtained from observation of a walking model wearing each skirt. The subjective data was obtained for 9 evaluation terms of moving flared skirt by SD method evaluated by 23 university students aged from 19 to 22. It was found that "flowing", "rhythmical", "blowy", "airy", "flexible", "graceful", "lively", "dynamic" and "beautiful" movement of flared skirts are evaluated objectively from a combination of various drape coefficients. These equations were inspected by the other 9 flared skirts and were proved to be reliable. Only 4 terms such as "rhythmical", "airy", "graceful" and "beautiful" are enough to evaluate the appearance. Almost all the evaluation terms were primarily dominated by conventional static drape coefficient (Ds) of fabrics. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A garment is regarded as desirable and beautiful if it covers the body with harmony and gracefulness. High drape, lightweight and soft handle fabrics are in demand, particularly for womenswear garments such as dresses, shirts, skirts, trousers and suits. Fabric drapability can be measured by a number of drapemeters for different modes of drapability such as static, dynamic and revolving. It has been shown that the drape coefficients, Ds, Dd and Dr, associated with these respective modes of drapability can be predicted from a combination of measurements from the KES-F system (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics). In this paper we present the results of our studies on the prediction of drapability of lightweight wool fabrics, based on the KES-F system and drape coefficient predictive equations. It has been shown that the parameters Dr/Ds and Dd/Ds, called Indices of Drape Fluidity, Ir and Id, express the fluid drape behaviour better than Ds, Dr, D200 and Dd. This is because they discriminate and predict the drapability of fabrics better. Ir and Id have higher CV% than the Dr and Dd data, and therefore represent greater relative dispersion in a fabric group for drape. Various drape parameters of a group of wool fabrics have been compared with the four groups of polyester Shingosen fabrics, namely, New Silky, New Worsted, Rayon Touch and Peach Face, which are recognised for their soft fluid drape. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Some new parameters of dynamic drapability, such as revolving drape increase coefficient (Dr), revolving drape coefficient at 200 rpm (D200), and dynamic drape coefficient at swinging motion (Dd), have been defined using a device of dynamic drape tester and the regression equations are derived from mechanical parameters of fabrics obtained from KES system. These equations have been applied to polyester fabrics used for women's fine dress materials and the effects of weave density, yarn twist and yarn count on these parameters studied. It is observed that Dr and Dd have a maximum value at the optimum weave density. These values increase with the increase in yarn twist in the case of Dechine fabrics. These values decrease in the case of taffeta fabrics, and increase in the case of georgette with yarn count. Changes in D200 with weave density, yarn twist and yarn count are found to be little for all the fabrics. Node number decreases and conventional static drape coefficient (Ds) increases with weave density. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In order to study the effect of anisotropic feature of mechanical properties of various top sheets on the fabric hand, primary hand values and total hand value (=THV) were calculated from objective evaluation equation of various top sheets. Top sheet samples were classified into three groups as air-through, spunbond, and spunbond/meltblow groups. It was shown that THV became higher in the case of spunbnd top sheet in machine direction (=MD). THV was evaluated subjectively and objectively in the order of spunbond, spunbond/meltblow, air through, spunlace, woven fabrics. THV of spunbond top sheet in MD becomes the highest from both objective and subjective evaluations. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In order to study structural characteristics of top sheet for disposable diapers, the network density a of the top sheet was calculated from area density, fiber density, fiber diameter and thickness by the method of geometrical probabilities of pore size distribution. Permeability of the top sheet was evaluated reasonably by the pore size distribution and air space ratio of the top sheet in vertical direction. Although the difference of network density a between three groups of top sheet was small, air-through group has quite large value of the air space ratio, and the permeability is the largest. These samples are adequate for hygienic disposable diapers. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In order to study structural characteristics for top sheets of disposable diapers, mechanical parameters of tensile, bending and shearing properties obtained by KES-system are investigated precisely. Top sheet samples were classified into three groups as air-through, spunbond, and spunbond/meltblow group. It was shown that air-through group was better than the other group for disposable diapers, and they should be designed so that the strength is sustained in machine direction of top sheet and the top sheet covers human body in cross direction. Bending rigidity and its hysteresis of air-through group were larger than the other groups especially in the machine direction. Shearing rigidity and its hysteresis of spunbond and spunbond/meltblow were larger than air-through because of the existence of many adhesive points. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The method to objectively evaluate and to predict the fabric wrinkle resistance using the neural network was proposed in this paper. The fabric wrinkle resistance could be predicted by use of their textural feature and mechanical parameters. The correlation coefficient between the predicted value and practical wrinkle grade was as high as 0.9. The results showed that the wrinkle resistance of cotton fabrics not only could successfully be predicted using the neural network model that has been trained, but also could precisely be done using the one that has not been learned. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The purpose of this study is to find out a parameter of swinging properties of moving flared skirts objectively from the appearance of the flared skirts in dynamic state. We took the appearance of the flared skirt with swinging by the CCD camera and analyzed the pictures with moving image processing system. The correlation between these swinging properties of flared skirts, and mechanical properties and subjective evaluation is examined. As a result, the appearance of a moving flared skirt is expected to be dominated by the amount of changeable hem width rather than the maximum hem width. The maximum hem width at turn-round angle 30 degrees has a tendency to be related to shear properties such as G, 2HG5 and 2HG and compound mechanical parameters and shear vibrational properties. On the other hand, the difference between the maximum and minimum hem width of a moving flared skirt at the same turn-round angle correlated to shear vibrational properties and bending vibrational properties such as d1, d2, S1 and S2. The ratio of dynamic hem width at turn-round motion to static hem width is correlated highly with subjective appraisals. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this research study, the method evaluating the wrinkle appearance objectively with the CCD laser displacement sensor system was described. A CCD was employed as the light-receiving element in the system, whose sensor enables to obtain the stably, highly accurate displacement measurement, regardless of the light quantity distribution of the beam spot. The wrinkle grades of standard replicas and fabrics were measured and analyzed with the system, which was an excellent tool for investigating three-dimensional surface shapes of wrinkles. The contours of wrinkle surfaces were also analyzed with the fractal method.

Evaluates aesthetic appearance of flared skirts in dynamic state objectively in consideration of the actual wearer's motion. Relationship between suggestive values obtained from sensory test of moving skirts' appearance and turn-round angle of a mannequin stand; Relation of the basic and combined mechanical parameters to moving clothing appearance; Use of flowing, rhythmical, airy, flexible, graceful and lively movement in evaluating the appearance of flared skirts in dynamic state.

To develop an objective evaluation equation for the aesthetic appearance of swinging flared skirts, subjective appraisals are obtained from 29 girls, aged 20 to 22, by the paired comparison method. The subjective values are regressed with basic mechanical parameters and the vibrational parameters of the fabrics from which the skirts are made, using stepwise multiple regression. As the result, useful and significant objective evaluation equations to estimate "rhythmical", "blowy", "airy", "graceful", "dynamic", and "beautiful" movements of the flared skirts are developed. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Presents an abstract of the article “Features of Conventional Static and New Dynamic Drape Coefficients of Woven Silk Fabrics,” by Mitsuo Matsudaira and Minzhang Yang, published in the March 2003 issue of the “Textile Research Journal.”