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Probiotic supplementation has been shown to modulate the gut-skin axis. The goal of this study was to investigate whether oral spore-based probiotic ingestion modulates the gut microbiome, plasma short-chain fatty acids (SCFAs), and skin biophysical properties. This was a single-blinded, 8-week study (NCT03605108) in which 25 participants, 7 with noncystic acne, were assigned to take placebo capsules for the first 4 weeks, followed by 4 weeks of probiotic supplementation. Blood and stool collection, facial photography, sebum production, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin hydration measurements, and acne assessments were performed at baseline, 4, and 8 weeks. Probiotic supplementation resulted in a decreasing trend for the facial sebum excretion rate and increased TEWL overall. Subanalysis of the participants with acne showed improvement in total, noninflammatory, and inflammatory lesion counts, along with improvements in markers of gut permeability. The gut microbiome of the nonacne population had an increase in the relative abundance of Akkermansia, while the subpopulation of those with acne had an increase in the relative abundance of Lachnospiraceae and Ruminococcus gnavus. Probiotic supplementation augmented the circulating acetate/propionate ratio. There is preliminary evidence for the use of spore-based probiotic supplementation to shift the gut microbiome and augment short-chain fatty acids in those with and without acne. Further spore-based supplementation studies in those with noncystic acne are warranted.

Introduction Skin barrier development and dysfunction in premature and mature newborns is important for the risk of atopic dermatitis (AD). Methods and analysis The Barrier dysfunction in Atopic newBorns studY (BABY) Cohort is a prospective birth cohort study of 150 preterm children (gestational age (GA) below 37+0) and 300 term children (GA 37+0 to 41+6). Skin barrier is assessed through transepidermal water loss, tape stripping, Raman-spectroscopy and microbiome sampling. Clinical examinations are done and DNA from buccal swabs is collected for genetic analyses. Thymus size is assessed by ultrasound examination. Information on pregnancy, delivery, parental exposures and diseases are collected, and structured telephone interviews are conducted at 18 and 24 months to assess exogenous exposures in the child and onset of AD. Hanifin and Rajka criteria as well as The UK Working Party's Diagnostic Criteria for Atopic Dermatitis are used to diagnose AD. Severity of AD is assessed using the Eczema Area and Severity Index (EASI) and Patient Oriented Eczema Measure (POEM). Ethics and dissemination The study is approved by the scientific Ethical Committee of the Capital Region (H-16042289 and H-16042294). Outcomes will be presented at national and international conferences and in peer-reviewed publications.

This doctoral thesis deals with the phenomenon of unchanged or even decreased trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) in the aged skin despite a decreased skin barrier lipids content. To address this task, analysis of structural components of the skin barrier was performed along with analysis of the skin barrier properties by using a wide range of methods. Optimal procedures for the skin sampling and subsequent sample handling and analysis were established as the first step. The second step included the analysis of the epidermal tight junction (TJ) proteins expression, lipid content and the skin barrier properties in the skin affected by ageing to select a potential target responsible for this phenomenon. The last part of this thesis challenged the target molecule occludin with regard to TEWL in the skin with diminished lipid barrier by using an ex vivo porcine skin model., Tato dizertační práce se zabývá fenoménem stabilní nebo dokonce snížené transepidermální ztráty vody (TEWL) ve stárnoucí kůži navzdory nižšímu obsahu bariérových lipidů. K řešení této problematiky bylo nutné analyzovat strukturální komponenty kožní bariéry a biofyzikální parametry kůže, k čemuž byla použitá celá řada analytických metod. Jako první krok byla provedena optimalizace postupu pro odběr vzorku a jeho následného zpracování a analýzy. Další krok zahrnoval analýzu exprese proteinů epidermálních těsných spojů, analýzu obsahu lipidů a analýzu bariérových vlastností v kůži ovlivněné stárnutím, což bylo použito k následné selekci možných cílových molekul zodpovědných za výše uvedený fenomén. Poslední část této práce zkoumá potenciální molekulu okludin ve vztahu k TEWL v kůži se sníženým obsahem lipidů za použití ex vivo modelu prasečí kůže., Fakulta chemicko-technologická, Dokončená práce s úspěšnou obhajobou

Introduction Skin barrier development and dysfunction in premature and mature newborns is important for the risk of atopic dermatitis (AD). Methods and analysis The Barrier dysfunction in Atopic newBorns studY (BABY) Cohort is a prospective birth cohort study of 150 preterm children (gestational age (GA) below 37+0) and 300 term children (GA 37+0 to 41+6). Skin barrier is assessed through transepidermal water loss, tape stripping, Raman-spectroscopy and microbiome sampling. Clinical examinations are done and DNA from buccal swabs is collected for genetic analyses. Thymus size is assessed by ultrasound examination. Information on pregnancy, delivery, parental exposures and diseases are collected, and structured telephone interviews are conducted at 18 and 24 months to assess exogenous exposures in the child and onset of AD. Hanifin and Rajka criteria as well as The UK Working Party's Diagnostic Criteria for Atopic Dermatitis are used to diagnose AD. Severity of AD is assessed using the Eczema Area and Severity Index (EASI) and Patient Oriented Eczema Measure (POEM). Ethics and dissemination The study is approved by the scientific Ethical Committee of the Capital Region (H-16042289 and H-16042294). Outcomes will be presented at national and international conferences and in peer-reviewed publications.

Background: Panthenol is an active substance used in dermatology to protect the health of the skin, to treat defects in the morphology of the stratum corneum. In cosmetology, hydrating, softening, and barrier function of panthenol are utilized. Detailed studies evaluating the efficacy of panthenol in cosmetic and pharmaceutical semisolid formulations and establishing its optimum concentration are needed. Objectives: To investigate whether an addition of 5-13 wt% panthenol in o/w and w/o emulsions increases hydration and supports the barrier properties of the skin. Rheological properties and sensory analysis of prepared formulations are supplemented. Methods: Noninvasive instrumental methods in vivo were used. The hydration and barrier effect of semisolid formulations on the skin were observed for 48 hour; testing was conducted on 40 women. The effect was compared with formulations without any content of panthenol. The rheological and organoleptic properties of the formulations were evaluated. Results: After applying either form of the formulations containing 7-11 wt% of panthenol hydration of the skin increased, transepidermal water loss decreased. pH of the skin shifted toward neutral after application of tested formulations. The rheological properties of the formulations were influenced by the type of vehicle, the amount of panthenol, and temperature. Sensory evaluation of both semisolid forms revealed statistically significant differences in o/w formulations with regard to spreadability. Conclusions: The presence of panthenol in an o/w and w/o semisolid formulations significantly enhances skin barrier repair and hydration of the stratum corneum. Better vehicle for the active substance as regards hydration proved o/w formulations. © 2018 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.

type:Conference Paper, Skin moisturizing has drawn attention in terms of beauty and anti-aging industries. However, it is difficult to observe the inside of the epidermis and the relationship between the epidermis and water content is not yet clear. Computational simulations can be useful in understanding such mechanisms of skin formation. A particle model was used to simulate three-dimensional skin turnover, and the results reproduced the epidermal skin turnover phenomenon. In this study, a diffusion model is introduced into this simulation model and a moisture diffusion analysis of the epidermis was performed. In particular, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) was modeled by considering diffusion and surface evaporation in the stratum corneum and other layers. The relationship between the moisture content and the keratin detachment was considered, and the exfoliation condition of keratin based on the moisture content was calculated in the model. As a result, it was possible to calculate the intraepidermal water content distribution in the skin using the particle model. It was also possible to reproduce phenomena such as keratin thickening due to increase of TEWL. This phenomenon is consistent with cases of dry skin. In the future, it will be necessary to introduce a change in TEWL according to the thickness of the stratum corneum and the diffusion coefficient., The 8th Conference on Computational Mechanics (CCM 2018), August 21-23, 2018, Kunming, China., source:DOI:10.4236/jamp.2018.68150

Background: Panthenol is an active substance used in dermatology to protect the health of the skin, to treat defects in the morphology of the stratum corneum. In cosmetology, hydrating, softening, and barrier function of panthenol are utilized. Detailed studies evaluating the efficacy of panthenol in cosmetic and pharmaceutical semisolid formulations and establishing its optimum concentration are needed. Objectives: To investigate whether an addition of 5-13 wt% panthenol in o/w and w/o emulsions increases hydration and supports the barrier properties of the skin. Rheological properties and sensory analysis of prepared formulations are supplemented. Methods: Noninvasive instrumental methods in vivo were used. The hydration and barrier effect of semisolid formulations on the skin were observed for 48 hour; testing was conducted on 40 women. The effect was compared with formulations without any content of panthenol. The rheological and organoleptic properties of the formulations were evaluated. Results: After applying either form of the formulations containing 7-11 wt% of panthenol hydration of the skin increased, transepidermal water loss decreased. pH of the skin shifted toward neutral after application of tested formulations. The rheological properties of the formulations were influenced by the type of vehicle, the amount of panthenol, and temperature. Sensory evaluation of both semisolid forms revealed statistically significant differences in o/w formulations with regard to spreadability. Conclusions: The presence of panthenol in an o/w and w/o semisolid formulations significantly enhances skin barrier repair and hydration of the stratum corneum. Better vehicle for the active substance as regards hydration proved o/w formulations. © 2018 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.

The molecular organization of stratum corneum (SC) lipids is important for maintaining the barrier properties of the skin. The majority of intercellular lipids are in a solid state at normal humidity (RH) and ambient temperature; however, several studies indicate that a small fraction exist in a fluid state. In a previous work, a preferential solubilization of fluid skin lipids by acetone (Ac) was envisaged. A different change in the skin permeability related to the different lipid structures of the extracted lipids was suggested. To increase the knowledge of the specific role of different lipids on skin structure, a selective lipid modification is proposed. This study assess the effect of Ac on skin barrier lipids in-depth. Synchrotron based Fourier-transform infrared microspectroscopy (FTIR), which is used to study SC lipid organization, revealed a more ordered lipid organization after Ac treatment. In vitro experiments using Franz cells, which were selected to follow the SC barrier function capability, demonstrated that Ac-treated skin retained caffeine and ibuprofen on the SC with very low permeation of both compounds into the deeper skin layers. In vitro transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurements revealed the ability of Ac to induce a less water permeated skin. Although an important lipid fraction has been removed, Ac skin treatment brings to a skin where the remaining lipids promote an improved barrier function. These results could lead to a better understanding of the role of different lipid components in skin structure. © 2019

Latar belakang: Dermatitis atopik (DA) merupakan keradangan kulit yang kronis, berulang, disertai rasa yang sangat gatal, kulit terasa kering, timbul pada tempat predileksi tertentu. Peningkatan potential hydrogen (pH) dan transepidermal water loss (TEWL) pada pasien DA menunjukkan gangguan fungsi sawar kulit dan dapat menyebabkan berbagai kelainan kulit berupa kulit kering di daerah lesi maupun non lesi. Tujuan: Mengetahui nilai pH dan TEWL pada DA anak di Divisi Dermatologi Anak Unit Rawat jalan (URJ) Kesehatan Kulit dan Kelamin RSUD Dr. Soetomo Surabaya. Metode: Penelitian deskriptif observasional dengan cross sectional (potong lintang) bertujuan untuk mengetahui nilai pH dan TEWL pada pasien DA anak di RSUD Dr Soetomo Surabaya, dengan besar sampel 20 pasien DA anak. Derajat penyakit diukur dengan menggunakan indeks SCORAD. Hasil: Nilai median pH di area lesi dan area non lesi adalah 6,54 dan 5,38. Nilai rerata TEWL di area lesi dan area non lesi adalah 22,51 g/m2/h dan 16,04 g/m2/h. Nilai pH dan TEWL pada area lesi lebih tinggi dibandingkan dengan area non lesi. Simpulan: Terdapat kecenderungan peningkatan nilai pH dan TEWL pada area lesi maupun non lesi sesuai dengan derajat keparahan DA.

Latar belakang: Dermatitis atopik (DA) merupakan keradangan kulit yang kronis, berulang, disertai rasa yang sangat gatal, kulit terasa kering, timbul pada tempat predileksi tertentu. Peningkatan potential hydrogen (pH) dan transepidermal water loss (TEWL) pada pasien DA menunjukkan gangguan fungsi sawar kulit dan dapat menyebabkan berbagai kelainan kulit berupa kulit kering di daerah lesi maupun non lesi. Tujuan: Mengetahui nilai pH dan TEWL pada DA anak di Divisi Dermatologi Anak Unit Rawat jalan (URJ) Kesehatan Kulit dan Kelamin RSUD Dr. Soetomo Surabaya. Metode: Penelitian deskriptif observasional dengan cross sectional (potong lintang) bertujuan untuk mengetahui nilai pH dan TEWL pada pasien DA anak di RSUD Dr Soetomo Surabaya, dengan besar sampel 20 pasien DA anak. Derajat penyakit diukur dengan menggunakan indeks SCORAD. Hasil: Nilai median pH di area lesi dan area non lesi adalah 6,54 dan 5,38. Nilai rerata TEWL di area lesi dan area non lesi adalah 22,51 g/m2/h dan 16,04 g/m2/h. Nilai pH dan TEWL pada area lesi lebih tinggi dibandingkan dengan area non lesi. Simpulan: Terdapat kecenderungan peningkatan nilai pH dan TEWL pada area lesi maupun non lesi sesuai dengan derajat keparahan DA.

The aim of the paper is to test stability and biophysical properties of hydrophilic and lipophilic emulsions with selected vegetable seed oils: limnanthes alba, Prunus amygdalus dulcis, Cannabis saliva, Rosa rubiginosa and Hellianthus annuus. Biophysical properties of emulsions are investigated in vivo using non-invasive instrumental methods (comeometry, tewametry and pH) in a group of 12 healthy women volunteers. Their stability profiles (colour, phase separation and centrifugation) under various temperatures (9, 25, 37 and 57 degrees C) and storage time (24 hours, 2, 7, 14, 21 and 28 days) were monitored. The moisturising activities of the emulsions supplemented with various oils were comparable. The lipophilic emulsions showed a better ability to improve the condition of the skin barrier due to formation of a surface lipid film. The tested formulations regulated the pH of the skin towards neutral values. Lipophilic emulsions showed earlier phase separation and changes in colour. The greatest resistance to thermal stress during storage was observed for the emulsion bases. Emulsions containing oils, except for those with rosehip and hempseed oils, were stable up to the temperature of 37 degrees C. The studied emulsion systems are excellent vehicles of vegetable oils and exhibit relatively good stability, benefiting the natural properties of skin.

The aim of the paper is to test stability and biophysical properties of hydrophilic and lipophilic emulsions with selected vegetable seed oils: limnanthes alba, Prunus amygdalus dulcis, Cannabis saliva, Rosa rubiginosa and Hellianthus annuus. Biophysical properties of emulsions are investigated in vivo using non-invasive instrumental methods (comeometry, tewametry and pH) in a group of 12 healthy women volunteers. Their stability profiles (colour, phase separation and centrifugation) under various temperatures (9, 25, 37 and 57 degrees C) and storage time (24 hours, 2, 7, 14, 21 and 28 days) were monitored. The moisturising activities of the emulsions supplemented with various oils were comparable. The lipophilic emulsions showed a better ability to improve the condition of the skin barrier due to formation of a surface lipid film. The tested formulations regulated the pH of the skin towards neutral values. Lipophilic emulsions showed earlier phase separation and changes in colour. The greatest resistance to thermal stress during storage was observed for the emulsion bases. Emulsions containing oils, except for those with rosehip and hempseed oils, were stable up to the temperature of 37 degrees C. The studied emulsion systems are excellent vehicles of vegetable oils and exhibit relatively good stability, benefiting the natural properties of skin.

Background: Although keratin hydrolysates have become established as standard components in hair and nail cosmetics, studies on the moisturizing effects of keratin hydrolysates do not appear among contemporary literature. Objectives: To test if adding keratin hydrolysate into an ointment base increases hydration of the skin and improves skin barrier function, or diminishes trans-epidermal water loss. Methods: Formulations were prepared containing 2%, 4%, and 6% keratin hydrolysates (based on weight of the ointment base). The moisturizing properties of keratin hydrolysates were tested by measuring skin hydration, trans-epidermal water loss and skin pH; measurements were carried out at intervals of 1, 2, 3, 4, 24, and 48 h. Testing was conducted on 10 women. Results: As regards hydration, adding 2% keratin hydrolysate to the ointment base is optimal, as an increase of 14%-23% occurs in hydration of the stratum corneum. For trans-epidermal water loss, adding 4% KH to the ointment base is preferential, as this triggers a 26%-46% decrease in trans-epidermal water loss. Conclusions: Keratin hydrolysate acts as a humectant (it binds water from lower layers of the epidermis to the stratum corneum) as well as an occlusive (it reduces trans-epidermal water loss). The highly favorable properties of keratin hydrolysates are attributed to the wide distribution of keratin hydrolysates molecular weights; low-molecular weight fractions easily penetrate the SC, while high-molecular weight fractions form a protective film on the epidermis. Adding keratin hydrolysates to the ointment base did not cause phase separation even after 6 mo storage. © 2017 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.

Background: Although keratin hydrolysates have become established as standard components in hair and nail cosmetics, studies on the moisturizing effects of keratin hydrolysates do not appear among contemporary literature. Objectives: To test if adding keratin hydrolysate into an ointment base increases hydration of the skin and improves skin barrier function, or diminishes trans-epidermal water loss. Methods: Formulations were prepared containing 2%, 4%, and 6% keratin hydrolysates (based on weight of the ointment base). The moisturizing properties of keratin hydrolysates were tested by measuring skin hydration, trans-epidermal water loss and skin pH; measurements were carried out at intervals of 1, 2, 3, 4, 24, and 48 h. Testing was conducted on 10 women. Results: As regards hydration, adding 2% keratin hydrolysate to the ointment base is optimal, as an increase of 14%-23% occurs in hydration of the stratum corneum. For trans-epidermal water loss, adding 4% KH to the ointment base is preferential, as this triggers a 26%-46% decrease in trans-epidermal water loss. Conclusions: Keratin hydrolysate acts as a humectant (it binds water from lower layers of the epidermis to the stratum corneum) as well as an occlusive (it reduces trans-epidermal water loss). The highly favorable properties of keratin hydrolysates are attributed to the wide distribution of keratin hydrolysates molecular weights; low-molecular weight fractions easily penetrate the SC, while high-molecular weight fractions form a protective film on the epidermis. Adding keratin hydrolysates to the ointment base did not cause phase separation even after 6 mo storage. © 2017 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.

Stárnutí je fyziologický proces, při kterém dochází k postupnému snižování funkčnosti dané tkáně či orgánu. Kůže jakožto povrchový orgán, který zachycuje UV záření urychlující stárnutí, stárne nejrychleji ze všech orgánů, což se projevuje i na bariérové funkci kožního systému. Důraz je kladen na lipidy stratum corneum, které výraznou měrou přispívají k bariérové funkci. V této bakalářské práci jsou shrnuty dosavadní znalosti o epidermálních lipidech, jejich struktuře, možnosti analýzy a jejich vliv na bariérovou funkci. Dále je pak popsán vliv stárnutí na epidermální lipidy., The ageing is physiological process that continuously lowers tissue or organ functionality. The skin as a surface organ which absorbs age-accelerating UV-light ages faster than any other organ and the barrier function of the skin is affected as well. The emphasis is put on the stratum corneum lipids, which greatly contribute to the barrier function. In this bachelor thesis, recent knowledge is summarized about epidermal lipids, their structure, analytical possibilities and their role in the barrier function of the skin. Furthermore, the impact of ageing on the stratum corneum lipids is also described., Fakulta chemicko-technologická

Diplomová práce byla zaměřena na formulaci přípravků s obsahem vybraných včelích produktů a jejich in vivo účinnost na pokožku. Teoretická část se zabývala chemickým složením včelích produktů, jejich vlastnostmi a využitím s důrazem na uplatnění v kosmetice. Stručně byla popsána stavba kůže, hydratace kůže a látky s hydratačními účinky. V praktické části byl sledován vliv připravených formulací na hydrataci pokožky, transepidermální ztrátu vody a pH pokožky. Zároveň byly studovány organoleptické vlastnosti přípravků v rámci senzorické analýzy. Bylo zjištěno, že připravené formulace ovlivnily hydrataci kůže. Největší schopnost hydratovat pokožku měly formulace s glycerolovým extraktem medu. Připravené formulace postupně snižovaly parametr TEWL. Nejlépe snižovaly TEWL formulace s glycerolovým a vodným extraktem. Připravené formulace upravovaly pozitivně pH kožního povrchu. Senzorickou analýzou byl prokázán signifikantní rozdíl v barvě a roztíratelnosti vzorků krémů ovlivněný typem včelího produktu., The thesis was focused on the formulation of creams containing selected bee products and their in vivo efficacy on skin. The theoretical part deals with the chemical composition of bee products their properties and usage, with emphasis on applications in cosmetics. Briefly were described structure and hydration of skin and substances having moisturizing effect. The practical part was examined the influence of prepared formulations on hydration, TEWL and pH. At the same time were studied organoleptic characteristics with sensory analysis. It was found that prepared formulations affected skin hydration. The greatest ability to hydrate skin had formulations with glycerol extract of honey. Prepared formulations gradually decreased TEWL. The best decreased TEWL formulations with glycerol and an aqueous extracts of honey. Prepared creams influenced skin surface pH. Sensory analysis was proved significant difference in colour and spreadability of creams influenced by the type of bee product., Ústav technologie tuků, tenzidů a kosmetiky

Tato diplomová práce se zabývá účinností kosmetických přípravků určených pro péči o aknózní pleť. Problematika aknózní pleti byla popsána v teoretické části práce. V praktické části práce byl studován vliv kosmetických přípravků pro aknózní pleť na hyd-rataci, transepidermální ztrátu vody, pH, začervenání, obsah kožního mazu, deskvamaci, póry, vrásky a skvrny pleti. Účinky jednotlivých kosmetických přípravků byly srovnány s deklarovanými účinky od výrobce. Z výsledků je patrné, že k nejvýraznějšímu zlepšení pleti došlo při používání krémů Sébium, AcneCare a Aknestop., This master thesis deals with an efficiency of cosmetic products for acne skin. Acne skin problematics was described in the theoretical part of this thesis. An influence of the cosmet-ic products for acne skin on hydration, transepidermal water loss, pH, redness, sebum con-tent, desquamation, pore, wrinkles and skin stains was studient in the experimental part of this thesis. Effects of the individual cosmetic products were compared with effects declared by the producer. From the results can be seen, that the most significant improvement was achieved by application of Sebium, AcneCare and Aknestop creams., Ústav technologie tuků, tenzidů a kosmetiky

Práce se zabývá problematikou bariérové funkce kůže postižené atopickou dermatitidou. Bylo provedeno dotazníkové šetření, na základě jehož výsledků byly vybrány nejčastěji používané kosmetické přípravky určené k péči o kůži postiženou atopickou dermatitidou. Účinnost těchto přípravků na bariérovou funkci kůže byla zjišťována in vivo pomocí instrumentálních metod. Dále bylo navrženo měření okluze a tento změřený parametr porovnán u souboru zdravých probandů a probandů trpících atopickou dermatitidou. Z provedeného experimentu vyplývá, že krémy určené pro atopickou dermatitidu měly velmi dobrý hydratační účinek, zabraňovaly úniku vody z kůže, vytvářely okluzní účinek a příznivě upravovaly pH kůže. Srovnáním výsledků okluzivního měření byla dokázána dvojnásobně vyšší ztráta vody u kůže postižené atopickou dermatitidou., The work deals with the barrier function of the skin affected by atopic dermatitis. Survey was carried out and on the basis of the results was chosen most frequently used cosmetic preparations for skin care affected by atopic dermatitis. The effectiveness of these products on the skin barrier function was determined in vivo using instrumental methods. It was also suggested measuring occlusion and the measured parameter is compared in a group of healthy subjects and people suffering from atopic dermatitis. The experiment shows that creams for atopic dermatitis had very good moisturizing effect, prevent the escape of water from the skin, creating occlusion effect and positively regulate the pH of the skin. By comparing the results of occlusive measurement was proved twice as high water loss in the skin affected by atopic dermatitis., Ústav technologie tuků, tenzidů a kosmetiky

Práce se zabývá zjišťováním velikosti hydratačního účinku a porovnáním bariérové funkce přípravků proti opruzeninám metodami in vivo. Měření velikosti hydratačního efektu bylo provedeno pomocí korneometrické metody a zjišťování bariérové účinnosti pomocí měření transepidermální ztráty vody, a to v různých aplikačních režimech. Poté byla u vzorků přípravků proti opruzeninám provedena senzorická analýza., This work deals with the identification of the size of the hydravion effect and with the comparison of the barrier fiction of anti sore spots products using methods in vivo. The measurement of the size of the hydravion effect was perfomed using the corneometer method and the detection of the barrier effectiveness was perfomed by using the measure-ment of the transepidermal water loss in variol application regres. Then there was made the sensory analysis of sample of the anti sore spots products., Ústav technologie tuků, tenzidů a kosmetiky

Purpose: The work is aimed at the description and study of the hydration effect of different active substances (hyaluronic acid, sericin, glycerol, and urea) incorporated in two different vehicles commonly used for compounding pharmaceutical ingredients, gel, and emulsion. Methods: The effects of the formulations were investigated by instrumental methods in vivo after their administration to the skin of volar forearms in a group of 20 healthy volunteers (women, mean age of 28 years). Hydration effect was observed by corneometry and barrier properties (TEWL) by tewametr at regular time intervals (1-26 h) after application of the prepared samples. Results: The results indicate that the active substances incorporated in the emulsion moisturize the skin better compared to the same substances contained in the gel. Furthermore, it was found that these ingredients, whether they are present in the emulsion or in the gel, prevent TEWL in a similar manner. Conclusion: The study showed that differences exist among the tested active ingredients in their ability to moisturize the skin. These differences are dependent not only on the type and concentration of the active substance used but also on the type of vehicle in which they are applied. It was also found that the active substances influence the viscosity of the prepared formulations. © 2015 John Wiley & Sons A/S.

Purpose: The work is aimed at the description and study of the hydration effect of different active substances (hyaluronic acid, sericin, glycerol, and urea) incorporated in two different vehicles commonly used for compounding pharmaceutical ingredients, gel, and emulsion. Methods: The effects of the formulations were investigated by instrumental methods in vivo after their administration to the skin of volar forearms in a group of 20 healthy volunteers (women, mean age of 28 years). Hydration effect was observed by corneometry and barrier properties (TEWL) by tewametr at regular time intervals (1-26 h) after application of the prepared samples. Results: The results indicate that the active substances incorporated in the emulsion moisturize the skin better compared to the same substances contained in the gel. Furthermore, it was found that these ingredients, whether they are present in the emulsion or in the gel, prevent TEWL in a similar manner. Conclusion: The study showed that differences exist among the tested active ingredients in their ability to moisturize the skin. These differences are dependent not only on the type and concentration of the active substance used but also on the type of vehicle in which they are applied. It was also found that the active substances influence the viscosity of the prepared formulations. © 2015 John Wiley & Sons A/S.

BackgroundAtopic dermatitis (AD) is a major inflammatory condition of the skin caused by inherited skin barrier deficiency, with mutations in the filaggrin gene predisposing to development of AD. Support for barrier deficiency initiating AD came from flaky tail mice, which have a frameshift mutation in Flg and also carry an unknown gene, matted, causing a matted hair phenotype.ObjectiveWe sought to identify the matted mutant gene in mice and further define whether mutations in the human gene were associated with AD.MethodsA mouse genetics approach was used to separate the matted and Flg mutations to produce congenic single-mutant strains for genetic and immunologic analysis. Next-generation sequencing was used to identify the matted gene. Five independently recruited AD case collections were analyzed to define associations between single nucleotide polymorphisms (SNPs) in the human gene and AD.ResultsThe matted phenotype in flaky tail mice is due to a mutation in the Tmem79/Matt gene, with no expression of the encoded protein mattrin in the skin of mutant mice. Matt(ft) mice spontaneously have dermatitis and atopy caused by a defective skin barrier, with mutant mice having systemic sensitization after cutaneous challenge with house dust mite allergens. Meta-analysis of 4,245 AD cases and 10,558 population-matched control subjects showed that a missense SNP, rs6684514, [corrected] in the human MATT gene has a small but significant association with AD.ConclusionIn mice mutations in Matt cause a defective skin barrier and spontaneous dermatitis and atopy. A common SNP in MATT has an association with AD in human subjects.

Tato práce se zabývá měřením hydratačního potenciálu netradičních humektantů u připravených vzorků kosmetických emulzí. K měření hydratačních účinků byla použita korneometrická metoda v různých aplikačních režimech. Naměřené hydratační účinky kosmetických emulzí byly vzájemně porovnány. Dále byla měřena hodnota transepidermální ztráty vody a pH kožního povrchu po aplikaci těchto hydratačních látek. Výsledky prokázaly, že testované humektanty mají výrazný vliv na zachování přirozené bariérové funkce kůže., This work deals with the measurement of hydration potential of non-traditional humectants in cosmetic emulsions prepared samples. Korneometric method in different application modes was used to measure the effects of hydration. Measured moisturizing effects of cosmetic emulsions were compared. Furthermore, the measured value of transepidermal water loss and skin surface pH after application of moisturizing agents. The results showed that the tested humectants have a significant impact on preserving the natural barrier function of the skin., Ústav technologie tuků, tenzidů a kosmetiky, obhájeno

Tato práce se zabývá problematikou ochranné bariérové funkce kůže, hydratací pokožky a hydratačními látkami, které se obvykle v kosmetických prostředcích vyskytují. Pozornost je věnována zejména D-panthenolu, jeho účinkům a využití v kosmetice. Práce se zabývá ověřením bariérové funkce mastí s obsahem D-panthenolu o různých koncentracích. Tyto vlastnosti D-panthenol byly zkoumány pomocí corneometrické metody a metody transepidermální ztráty vody (TEWL)., This work deal with the protective barrier function of the skin. It also deals with the hydration of the skin and moisturizing agents that are normály found in cosmetic products. Attention is devoted to the D-panthenol, its effects and usage in cosmetics. The work focuses on the verification of the barrier function of ointments containing D-panthenol in different concentrations. For this investigation were used the corneometry method and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) method., Ústav technologie tuků, tenzidů a kosmetiky, obhájeno

Funkční kožní bariéra představuje nezastupitelnou úlohu při trvalém udržování vody v pokožce. Poruchy hydratačních mechanismů vytváří podmínky pro rozvoj nežádoucích patologických stavů na kůži. K reparaci kožního povrchu mohou napomoci kosmetické prostředky obsahující účinné aktivní látky podporující hydrataci. Jedním z významných humektantů je právě močovina, jejíž účinky byly studovány při aplikaci komerčně dostup-ných kosmetických prostředků na ruce in vivo instrumentálními metodami., Functional skin barrier represents an irreplaceable role in the ongoing maintenance of the water in the skin. Disorders hydration mechanisms create conditions for developing ad-verse pathological conditions of the skin. The repair of the skin surface can help cosmetic products containing effective active substances promoting hydration. One of the major humectants is just urea, whose effects were studied in the application of commercially avail-able cosmetic products on hand in vivo instrumental methods, Ústav technologie tuků, tenzidů a kosmetiky, obhájeno

Práce se zabývá vlivem vybraných humektantů na stav kožního povrchu. Použité humektanty byly Bioplasma BG 40, Codiavelane BG/PF, Oligogeline a Sensolene. Bylo zjištěno, že tyto humektanty mají významný vliv na snižování transepidermální ztráty vody, tedy na zachování dobrého stavu kožního povrchu., This thesis is focused on an effect of chosen humectants on a skin surface. Used humectants were Bioplasma BG 40, Codiavelane BG/PF, Oligogeline and Sensolene. It was found out that these humectant have significant effect on decrease of transepidermal water loss, thus on good skin condition maintance., Ústav technologie tuků, tenzidů a kosmetiky, obhájeno

BackgroundAtopic dermatitis (AD) is a major inflammatory condition of the skin caused by inherited skin barrier deficiency, with mutations in the filaggrin gene predisposing to development of AD. Support for barrier deficiency initiating AD came from flaky tail mice, which have a frameshift mutation in Flg and also carry an unknown gene, matted, causing a matted hair phenotype.ObjectiveWe sought to identify the matted mutant gene in mice and further define whether mutations in the human gene were associated with AD.MethodsA mouse genetics approach was used to separate the matted and Flg mutations to produce congenic single-mutant strains for genetic and immunologic analysis. Next-generation sequencing was used to identify the matted gene. Five independently recruited AD case collections were analyzed to define associations between single nucleotide polymorphisms (SNPs) in the human gene and AD.ResultsThe matted phenotype in flaky tail mice is due to a mutation in the Tmem79/Matt gene, with no expression of the encoded protein mattrin in the skin of mutant mice. Matt(ft) mice spontaneously have dermatitis and atopy caused by a defective skin barrier, with mutant mice having systemic sensitization after cutaneous challenge with house dust mite allergens. Meta-analysis of 4,245 AD cases and 10,558 population-matched control subjects showed that a missense SNP, rs6684514, [corrected] in the human MATT gene has a small but significant association with AD.ConclusionIn mice mutations in Matt cause a defective skin barrier and spontaneous dermatitis and atopy. A common SNP in MATT has an association with AD in human subjects.

Tato práce je zaměřena na popis interakcí kůže a jejích složek s povrchově aktivními lát-kami (PAL). V první části je popsána fyziologie a anatomie kůže. Velká část je zaměřena na povrchově aktivní látky. Závěrečná část je věnována interakcím kůže s PAL. Mytím pokožky nastávají změny ve fyzikálních vlastnostech kůže. Prokazatelné jsou např. změny v pH pokožky a v transepidermální ztrátě vody (TEWL), což je velmi citlivý index poško-zení bariérové funkce. Značné působení anionických surfaktantů na proteiny může způsob-bit jejich denaturaci, zatímco interakce surfaktantů s lipidy a jejich vliv na stav pokožky jsou stále diskutabilním tématem. Přehnané vystavování pokožky tenzidům vede k dráždi-vým reakcím. Tyto účinky se většinou stanovují in vitro nebo in vivo metodami., The aim of this work is to provide description of interactions of the skin with surfactants. In the first part the phisiology and the anatomy of the skin is described. Great part of the work is focused on surfactants. End part concerns with their mutual interactions. Changes in the physical properties of the skin occur after washing. For example, changes in skin surface pH and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) (a sensitive index of barrier function) are easily demonstrable. Extensive binding of anionic surfactants may lead to protein dena-turation, while interactions of surfactants with lipids and their influence to the skin is still discussed. Excessive exposure of the skin to surfactants can cause irritable reactions. These effects are determined by in vitro and in vivo methods., Ústav potravinářského inženýrství, obhájeno

Lipids in the stratum corneum are key components in the barrier function of the skin. Changes in lipid composition related to eczematous diseases are well known, but limited data are available on variations within healthy skin. The objective of the present study was to compare ceramide subgroups and ceramide/cholesterol ratios in young, old, male and female healthy skin. A total of 55 participants with healthy skin was included in the study. Lipid profiles were correlated with transepidermal water loss and with information on dry skin from a questionnaire including 16 people. No statistically significant differences were found between young and old skin for ceramide subgroups or ceramide/cholesterol ratios, and there was no statistically significant correlation between answers about dry skin and ceramide levels. Interestingly, a statistically significant higher ceramide/cholesterol ratio was found for men than for women (p = 0.02).

Lipids in the stratum corneum are key components in the barrier function of the skin. Changes in lipid composition related to eczematous diseases are well known, but limited data are available on variations within healthy skin. The objective of the present study was to compare ceramide subgroups and ceramide/cholesterol ratios in young, old, male and female healthy skin. A total of 55 participants with healthy skin was included in the study. Lipid profiles were correlated with transepidermal water loss and with information on dry skin from a questionnaire including 16 people. No statistically significant differences were found between young and old skin for ceramide subgroups or ceramide/cholesterol ratios, and there was no statistically significant correlation between answers about dry skin and ceramide levels. Interestingly, a statistically significant higher ceramide/cholesterol ratio was found for men than for women (p = 0.02).

Bicelles are discoidal aggregates formed by a flat dimyristoyl-glycero-phosphocholine (DMPC) bilayer, stabilized by a rim of dihexanoylglycero-phosphocholine (DHPC) in water. Given the structure, composition and the dimensions of these aggregates around 10–50 nm diameter, their use for topical applications is a promising strategy. This work evaluates the effect of DMPC/DHPC bicelles with molar ratio (2/1) on intact skin. Biophysical properties of the skin, such as transepidermal water loss (TEWL), elasticity, skin capacitance and irritation were measured in healthy skin in vivo. To study the effect of the bicellar systems on the microstructure of the stratum corneum (SC) in vitro, pieces of native tissue were treated with the aforementioned bicellar system and evaluated by freeze substitution applied to transmission electron microscopy (FSTEM). Our results show that bicelles increase the TEWL, the skin elastic parameters and, decrease skin hydration without promoting local signs of irritation and without affecting the SC lipid microstructure. Thus, a permeabilizing effect of bicelles on the skin takes place possibly due to the changes in the phase behaviour of the SC lipids by effect of phospholipids from bicelles.

It is known that, depending on the concentration, treatment with urea could improve skin barrier function, despite its penetration-enhancing properties. This controversial skin effect of urea has been explored systematically in this study in terms of the effect of vehicle on the performance of urea. In the first part, a series of four semi-solid emulsions with 5% (w/w) urea, varying in the type of emulsion, nature of emulsifier and polarity of oil ingredients, have been evaluated with regard to their skin hydrating and transepidermal water loss (TEWL)-modifying properties. Placebo samples were tested alongside the urea-containing ones. Two best performing moisturisers from the above were chosen for the second part of the study, in which sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS)-irritated skin was treated with both placebo and urea-containing samples. In addition to TEWL and skin hydration level, the erythema index (EI) was measured before, during and after the treatment. The results have shown that barrier-improving and hydrating abilities of urea are bi-directional and dependent on both the type of vehicle used for its delivery and the state of skin.

In experimentally-induced irritant (ICD) and allergic (ACD) contact dermatitis, an oil-in-water (o/w) cream was applied to investigate its effects on a disturbed barrier function compared to untreated physiological barrier repair. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurements were performed. Before the start of the experiments, the skin tolerance of the cream was examined, revealing the non-irritating characteristics of the ingredients and the absence of any contact allergic patch test reaction. In the ICD study, sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) patches were applied to the forearms of young female volunteers. Consequently, it was observed that repeated cream application (14 days, 2x/day) significantly improved the TEWL of SLS-damaged skin, leading to a complete recovery on day 15. In the ACD study, disruption of skin barrier function was obtained by a nickel-mediated contact allergy patch (CAP:) test. The cream was then applied 2x/day for 4 consecutive days. Assessment of TEWL clearly showed that recovery of the disrupted skin significantly improved after cream application in comparison to untreated barrier repair.

Cílem této diplomové práce bylo zkoumání vlivu tenzidů a kosmetických polysacharidů na parametry pleti a její mikrobiom. V rámci stanovení účinku tenzidů byly testovány 3 povrchově aktivní látky: Dodecyl Sulfat Sodný (SDS), Kokamidopropyl betain (CAPB), Decylglucosid (DG). Pro porovnání byla použita i destilovaná voda. Pro další část experimentální práce bylo vybráno 6 surovin: vysokomolekulární Hyaluronic Acid (HMW HA), nízkomolekulární Hyaluronic Acid (LMW HA), Sodium Caproyl Hyaluronate (CaproylHA), Sodium Carboxymethyl -Glucan (NaCMG), Schizophyllan a Glucomannan. Pro porovnání byly zařazeny do testů také placebo a neošetřená kontrola (pokožka ošetřená pouze CAPB). První část práce je literární rešerší na zadané téma, která obsahuje následující části: anatomie kůže a její biofyzikální vlastnosti, kožní mikrobiom a jeho funkce, popsání použitých tenzidů a polysacharidů. Experimentální část je především zaměřena na bioinženýrské metody hodnocení kožních parametru a qRT-PCR pro stanovení relativního zastoupení hlavních bakteriálních druhů kožního mikrobiomu. Nejprve byl analyzován efekt na CT genu 16S rDNA a pro další analýzu byly zvolené kmeny Propionibacterium acnes a Staphylococcus epidermidis. Na závěr je uveden přehled všech vlastností vybraných látek a zhodnocení z ohledu na jejich aplikace v kosmetice., The aim of this diploma thesis was to investigate the effect of surfactants and cosmetic polysaccharides on skin parameters and its microbiome. Three surfactants were tested to determine their effect: Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate (SDS), Cocamidopropyl Betaine (CAPB), Decylglucoside (DG). Distilled water was also used for comparison. For the next part of the experimental work were selected 6 polysaccharides: high molecular weight Hyaluronic Acid (HMW HA), very low molecular weight Hyaluronic Acid (VLMW HA), Sodium Caproyl Hyaluronate (CaproylHA), Sodium Carboxymethyl -Glucan (NaCMG), Schizophyllan and Glucomannan. For comparison, placebo and untreated control (only CAPB treatment) were also included in the tests. The first part of the work is a literature search on the assigned topic, which contains the following parts: skin anatomy and its biophysical properties, skin microbiome and its functions, description of used surfactants and polysaccharides. The experimental part is mainly focused on bioengineering methods for evaluation of skin parameters and qRT-PCR to determine the relative proportion of main bacterial species of skin microbiome. First, the effect on the CT gene of 16S rDNA was analysed, and Propionibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus epidermidis strains were selected for further analysis. In conclusion are presented an overview of all properties of selected substances and assessment of their application in cosmetics.

Kůže chrání organismus zejména proti vlivům mikroorganizmů a chemickým látkám. Kůže se skládá ze čtyř základních částí: pokožka, bazální membrána, škára a podkožní tukové vazivo. Rohová vrstva je nejsvrchnější vrstvou pokožky a je důležitá v dermatologicko-kosmetickém průmyslu. Rohová vrstva je tvořena proteinovými buňkami, které jsou odklopeny lipidovou dvouvrstvou. Neporušeností lipidové dvouvrstvy je dána bariérová funkce kůže. Bariéra kůže není souvislá. Voda může difundovat k povrchu ze spodních, lépe hydratovaných vrstev kůže. Tento tok vody se nazývá přirozená ztráta vody pokožkou (TEWL) a může být měřen. TEWL se měří bioinženýrskymi metodami a je jím hodnocena bariérová funkce kůže. Hydratace rohové vrstvy se měří také bioinženýrskými metodami. tyto metody jsou založeny na elektrických vlastnostech kůže. Tato práce se zabývá hodnocením hydratace kůže, funkcí kožní bariéry a srovnáním měřících přístrojů. K měření bylo použito několik různých přístrojů. Tewameter měří evaporaci vody nad pokožkou, Skicon 200-EX měří elektrickou konduktanci, zatímco analogický i digitální Corneometr měří elektrickou kapacitanci. Měření byla uskutečněna před specifickým ošetřením a po specifickém ošetření, jako je stripování nebo aplikace kosmetického produktu. Ze získaných výsledků je možno říci, ze hodnoty TEWL se s stripováním zvyšují a hodnoty hydratace se po aplikaci hydratačního produktu také zvyšují. Srovnání měřících přístrojů se hodnotilo Pearson korelačním koeficientem. Koeficienty byly kladné a platné, což znamenalo lineární korelaci mezi dvěma určitými přístroji., The skin protects the organism against the penetration of micro-organism and chemical substances. The skin is a complex of four compartments: the epidermis, the dermo-epidermal junction, the dermis and the hypodermis. The Stratum corneum (SC) is the outermost layer of the epidermis and plays an important role in the dermato-cosmetic science. The SC is composed of protein-enriched corneocytes embedded in a lamellar lipid bilayer. The intactness of the lipid bilayers to corneocytes is presented as barrier function of the skin. The barrier of the SC is not perfect. The water from deeper highly hydrated layers can diffuse to the surface. This flux of the water is called Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and can be measured. The measurement of TEWL is a non-invasive bioengineering method for assessing the skin barrier function. The hydration of the SC can be assessed by non-invasive bioengineering methods as well. These methods are based on the electrical properties of the skin. This thesis deals with an assessment of the hydration of the skin, the skin barrier function and the comparison of instruments. Different types of instruments were used for measurements. The Tewameter TM 210 measures the gradient of water vapour above the skin surface, the Skicon 200-EX measures electrical conductance, the Corneometer analogical CM 825 and Corneometer digital CM 825 measure electrical capacitance. The bioengineering measurements were carried out before any treatment of the skin and after some specific treatments such as application of specific products or stripping with adhesive tape. From gained results it is possible to claim that the TEWL increased after stripping and the hydration of the skin increased after application of moisturize products. Comparison of instruments was assessed by the Pearson correlation coefficient. The correlation coefficients were positive and significant, that means that the two variables were linearly correlated.

Cílem této diplomové práce bylo zkoumání vlivu tenzidů a kosmetických polysacharidů na parametry pleti a její mikrobiom. V rámci stanovení účinku tenzidů byly testovány 3 povrchově aktivní látky: Dodecyl Sulfat Sodný (SDS), Kokamidopropyl betain (CAPB), Decylglucosid (DG). Pro porovnání byla použita i destilovaná voda. Pro další část experimentální práce bylo vybráno 6 surovin: vysokomolekulární Hyaluronic Acid (HMW HA), nízkomolekulární Hyaluronic Acid (LMW HA), Sodium Caproyl Hyaluronate (CaproylHA), Sodium Carboxymethyl -Glucan (NaCMG), Schizophyllan a Glucomannan. Pro porovnání byly zařazeny do testů také placebo a neošetřená kontrola (pokožka ošetřená pouze CAPB). První část práce je literární rešerší na zadané téma, která obsahuje následující části: anatomie kůže a její biofyzikální vlastnosti, kožní mikrobiom a jeho funkce, popsání použitých tenzidů a polysacharidů. Experimentální část je především zaměřena na bioinženýrské metody hodnocení kožních parametru a qRT-PCR pro stanovení relativního zastoupení hlavních bakteriálních druhů kožního mikrobiomu. Nejprve byl analyzován efekt na CT genu 16S rDNA a pro další analýzu byly zvolené kmeny Propionibacterium acnes a Staphylococcus epidermidis. Na závěr je uveden přehled všech vlastností vybraných látek a zhodnocení z ohledu na jejich aplikace v kosmetice., The aim of this diploma thesis was to investigate the effect of surfactants and cosmetic polysaccharides on skin parameters and its microbiome. Three surfactants were tested to determine their effect: Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate (SDS), Cocamidopropyl Betaine (CAPB), Decylglucoside (DG). Distilled water was also used for comparison. For the next part of the experimental work were selected 6 polysaccharides: high molecular weight Hyaluronic Acid (HMW HA), very low molecular weight Hyaluronic Acid (VLMW HA), Sodium Caproyl Hyaluronate (CaproylHA), Sodium Carboxymethyl -Glucan (NaCMG), Schizophyllan and Glucomannan. For comparison, placebo and untreated control (only CAPB treatment) were also included in the tests. The first part of the work is a literature search on the assigned topic, which contains the following parts: skin anatomy and its biophysical properties, skin microbiome and its functions, description of used surfactants and polysaccharides. The experimental part is mainly focused on bioengineering methods for evaluation of skin parameters and qRT-PCR to determine the relative proportion of main bacterial species of skin microbiome. First, the effect on the CT gene of 16S rDNA was analysed, and Propionibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus epidermidis strains were selected for further analysis. In conclusion are presented an overview of all properties of selected substances and assessment of their application in cosmetics.

Cílem této diplomové práce bylo zkoumání vlivu tenzidů a kosmetických polysacharidů na parametry pleti a její mikrobiom. V rámci stanovení účinku tenzidů byly testovány 3 povrchově aktivní látky: Dodecyl Sulfat Sodný (SDS), Kokamidopropyl betain (CAPB), Decylglucosid (DG). Pro porovnání byla použita i destilovaná voda. Pro další část experimentální práce bylo vybráno 6 surovin: vysokomolekulární Hyaluronic Acid (HMW HA), nízkomolekulární Hyaluronic Acid (LMW HA), Sodium Caproyl Hyaluronate (CaproylHA), Sodium Carboxymethyl -Glucan (NaCMG), Schizophyllan a Glucomannan. Pro porovnání byly zařazeny do testů také placebo a neošetřená kontrola (pokožka ošetřená pouze CAPB). První část práce je literární rešerší na zadané téma, která obsahuje následující části: anatomie kůže a její biofyzikální vlastnosti, kožní mikrobiom a jeho funkce, popsání použitých tenzidů a polysacharidů. Experimentální část je především zaměřena na bioinženýrské metody hodnocení kožních parametru a qRT-PCR pro stanovení relativního zastoupení hlavních bakteriálních druhů kožního mikrobiomu. Nejprve byl analyzován efekt na CT genu 16S rDNA a pro další analýzu byly zvolené kmeny Propionibacterium acnes a Staphylococcus epidermidis. Na závěr je uveden přehled všech vlastností vybraných látek a zhodnocení z ohledu na jejich aplikace v kosmetice., The aim of this diploma thesis was to investigate the effect of surfactants and cosmetic polysaccharides on skin parameters and its microbiome. Three surfactants were tested to determine their effect: Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate (SDS), Cocamidopropyl Betaine (CAPB), Decylglucoside (DG). Distilled water was also used for comparison. For the next part of the experimental work were selected 6 polysaccharides: high molecular weight Hyaluronic Acid (HMW HA), very low molecular weight Hyaluronic Acid (VLMW HA), Sodium Caproyl Hyaluronate (CaproylHA), Sodium Carboxymethyl -Glucan (NaCMG), Schizophyllan and Glucomannan. For comparison, placebo and untreated control (only CAPB treatment) were also included in the tests. The first part of the work is a literature search on the assigned topic, which contains the following parts: skin anatomy and its biophysical properties, skin microbiome and its functions, description of used surfactants and polysaccharides. The experimental part is mainly focused on bioengineering methods for evaluation of skin parameters and qRT-PCR to determine the relative proportion of main bacterial species of skin microbiome. First, the effect on the CT gene of 16S rDNA was analysed, and Propionibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus epidermidis strains were selected for further analysis. In conclusion are presented an overview of all properties of selected substances and assessment of their application in cosmetics.

Kůže chrání organismus zejména proti vlivům mikroorganizmů a chemickým látkám. Kůže se skládá ze čtyř základních částí: pokožka, bazální membrána, škára a podkožní tukové vazivo. Rohová vrstva je nejsvrchnější vrstvou pokožky a je důležitá v dermatologicko-kosmetickém průmyslu. Rohová vrstva je tvořena proteinovými buňkami, které jsou odklopeny lipidovou dvouvrstvou. Neporušeností lipidové dvouvrstvy je dána bariérová funkce kůže. Bariéra kůže není souvislá. Voda může difundovat k povrchu ze spodních, lépe hydratovaných vrstev kůže. Tento tok vody se nazývá přirozená ztráta vody pokožkou (TEWL) a může být měřen. TEWL se měří bioinženýrskymi metodami a je jím hodnocena bariérová funkce kůže. Hydratace rohové vrstvy se měří také bioinženýrskými metodami. tyto metody jsou založeny na elektrických vlastnostech kůže. Tato práce se zabývá hodnocením hydratace kůže, funkcí kožní bariéry a srovnáním měřících přístrojů. K měření bylo použito několik různých přístrojů. Tewameter měří evaporaci vody nad pokožkou, Skicon 200-EX měří elektrickou konduktanci, zatímco analogický i digitální Corneometr měří elektrickou kapacitanci. Měření byla uskutečněna před specifickým ošetřením a po specifickém ošetření, jako je stripování nebo aplikace kosmetického produktu. Ze získaných výsledků je možno říci, ze hodnoty TEWL se s stripováním zvyšují a hodnoty hydratace se po aplikaci hydratačního produktu také zvyšují. Srovnání měřících přístrojů se hodnotilo Pearson korelačním koeficientem. Koeficienty byly kladné a platné, což znamenalo lineární korelaci mezi dvěma určitými přístroji., The skin protects the organism against the penetration of micro-organism and chemical substances. The skin is a complex of four compartments: the epidermis, the dermo-epidermal junction, the dermis and the hypodermis. The Stratum corneum (SC) is the outermost layer of the epidermis and plays an important role in the dermato-cosmetic science. The SC is composed of protein-enriched corneocytes embedded in a lamellar lipid bilayer. The intactness of the lipid bilayers to corneocytes is presented as barrier function of the skin. The barrier of the SC is not perfect. The water from deeper highly hydrated layers can diffuse to the surface. This flux of the water is called Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and can be measured. The measurement of TEWL is a non-invasive bioengineering method for assessing the skin barrier function. The hydration of the SC can be assessed by non-invasive bioengineering methods as well. These methods are based on the electrical properties of the skin. This thesis deals with an assessment of the hydration of the skin, the skin barrier function and the comparison of instruments. Different types of instruments were used for measurements. The Tewameter TM 210 measures the gradient of water vapour above the skin surface, the Skicon 200-EX measures electrical conductance, the Corneometer analogical CM 825 and Corneometer digital CM 825 measure electrical capacitance. The bioengineering measurements were carried out before any treatment of the skin and after some specific treatments such as application of specific products or stripping with adhesive tape. From gained results it is possible to claim that the TEWL increased after stripping and the hydration of the skin increased after application of moisturize products. Comparison of instruments was assessed by the Pearson correlation coefficient. The correlation coefficients were positive and significant, that means that the two variables were linearly correlated.

Kůže chrání organismus zejména proti vlivům mikroorganizmů a chemickým látkám. Kůže se skládá ze čtyř základních částí: pokožka, bazální membrána, škára a podkožní tukové vazivo. Rohová vrstva je nejsvrchnější vrstvou pokožky a je důležitá v dermatologicko-kosmetickém průmyslu. Rohová vrstva je tvořena proteinovými buňkami, které jsou odklopeny lipidovou dvouvrstvou. Neporušeností lipidové dvouvrstvy je dána bariérová funkce kůže. Bariéra kůže není souvislá. Voda může difundovat k povrchu ze spodních, lépe hydratovaných vrstev kůže. Tento tok vody se nazývá přirozená ztráta vody pokožkou (TEWL) a může být měřen. TEWL se měří bioinženýrskymi metodami a je jím hodnocena bariérová funkce kůže. Hydratace rohové vrstvy se měří také bioinženýrskými metodami. tyto metody jsou založeny na elektrických vlastnostech kůže. Tato práce se zabývá hodnocením hydratace kůže, funkcí kožní bariéry a srovnáním měřících přístrojů. K měření bylo použito několik různých přístrojů. Tewameter měří evaporaci vody nad pokožkou, Skicon 200-EX měří elektrickou konduktanci, zatímco analogický i digitální Corneometr měří elektrickou kapacitanci. Měření byla uskutečněna před specifickým ošetřením a po specifickém ošetření, jako je stripování nebo aplikace kosmetického produktu. Ze získaných výsledků je možno říci, ze hodnoty TEWL se s stripováním zvyšují a hodnoty hydratace se po aplikaci hydratačního produktu také zvyšují. Srovnání měřících přístrojů se hodnotilo Pearson korelačním koeficientem. Koeficienty byly kladné a platné, což znamenalo lineární korelaci mezi dvěma určitými přístroji., The skin protects the organism against the penetration of micro-organism and chemical substances. The skin is a complex of four compartments: the epidermis, the dermo-epidermal junction, the dermis and the hypodermis. The Stratum corneum (SC) is the outermost layer of the epidermis and plays an important role in the dermato-cosmetic science. The SC is composed of protein-enriched corneocytes embedded in a lamellar lipid bilayer. The intactness of the lipid bilayers to corneocytes is presented as barrier function of the skin. The barrier of the SC is not perfect. The water from deeper highly hydrated layers can diffuse to the surface. This flux of the water is called Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and can be measured. The measurement of TEWL is a non-invasive bioengineering method for assessing the skin barrier function. The hydration of the SC can be assessed by non-invasive bioengineering methods as well. These methods are based on the electrical properties of the skin. This thesis deals with an assessment of the hydration of the skin, the skin barrier function and the comparison of instruments. Different types of instruments were used for measurements. The Tewameter TM 210 measures the gradient of water vapour above the skin surface, the Skicon 200-EX measures electrical conductance, the Corneometer analogical CM 825 and Corneometer digital CM 825 measure electrical capacitance. The bioengineering measurements were carried out before any treatment of the skin and after some specific treatments such as application of specific products or stripping with adhesive tape. From gained results it is possible to claim that the TEWL increased after stripping and the hydration of the skin increased after application of moisturize products. Comparison of instruments was assessed by the Pearson correlation coefficient. The correlation coefficients were positive and significant, that means that the two variables were linearly correlated.

Cílem této diplomové práce bylo zkoumání vlivu tenzidů a kosmetických polysacharidů na parametry pleti a její mikrobiom. V rámci stanovení účinku tenzidů byly testovány 3 povrchově aktivní látky: Dodecyl Sulfat Sodný (SDS), Kokamidopropyl betain (CAPB), Decylglucosid (DG). Pro porovnání byla použita i destilovaná voda. Pro další část experimentální práce bylo vybráno 6 surovin: vysokomolekulární Hyaluronic Acid (HMW HA), nízkomolekulární Hyaluronic Acid (LMW HA), Sodium Caproyl Hyaluronate (CaproylHA), Sodium Carboxymethyl -Glucan (NaCMG), Schizophyllan a Glucomannan. Pro porovnání byly zařazeny do testů také placebo a neošetřená kontrola (pokožka ošetřená pouze CAPB). První část práce je literární rešerší na zadané téma, která obsahuje následující části: anatomie kůže a její biofyzikální vlastnosti, kožní mikrobiom a jeho funkce, popsání použitých tenzidů a polysacharidů. Experimentální část je především zaměřena na bioinženýrské metody hodnocení kožních parametru a qRT-PCR pro stanovení relativního zastoupení hlavních bakteriálních druhů kožního mikrobiomu. Nejprve byl analyzován efekt na CT genu 16S rDNA a pro další analýzu byly zvolené kmeny Propionibacterium acnes a Staphylococcus epidermidis. Na závěr je uveden přehled všech vlastností vybraných látek a zhodnocení z ohledu na jejich aplikace v kosmetice., The aim of this diploma thesis was to investigate the effect of surfactants and cosmetic polysaccharides on skin parameters and its microbiome. Three surfactants were tested to determine their effect: Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate (SDS), Cocamidopropyl Betaine (CAPB), Decylglucoside (DG). Distilled water was also used for comparison. For the next part of the experimental work were selected 6 polysaccharides: high molecular weight Hyaluronic Acid (HMW HA), very low molecular weight Hyaluronic Acid (VLMW HA), Sodium Caproyl Hyaluronate (CaproylHA), Sodium Carboxymethyl -Glucan (NaCMG), Schizophyllan and Glucomannan. For comparison, placebo and untreated control (only CAPB treatment) were also included in the tests. The first part of the work is a literature search on the assigned topic, which contains the following parts: skin anatomy and its biophysical properties, skin microbiome and its functions, description of used surfactants and polysaccharides. The experimental part is mainly focused on bioengineering methods for evaluation of skin parameters and qRT-PCR to determine the relative proportion of main bacterial species of skin microbiome. First, the effect on the CT gene of 16S rDNA was analysed, and Propionibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus epidermidis strains were selected for further analysis. In conclusion are presented an overview of all properties of selected substances and assessment of their application in cosmetics.

Kůže chrání organismus zejména proti vlivům mikroorganizmů a chemickým látkám. Kůže se skládá ze čtyř základních částí: pokožka, bazální membrána, škára a podkožní tukové vazivo. Rohová vrstva je nejsvrchnější vrstvou pokožky a je důležitá v dermatologicko-kosmetickém průmyslu. Rohová vrstva je tvořena proteinovými buňkami, které jsou odklopeny lipidovou dvouvrstvou. Neporušeností lipidové dvouvrstvy je dána bariérová funkce kůže. Bariéra kůže není souvislá. Voda může difundovat k povrchu ze spodních, lépe hydratovaných vrstev kůže. Tento tok vody se nazývá přirozená ztráta vody pokožkou (TEWL) a může být měřen. TEWL se měří bioinženýrskymi metodami a je jím hodnocena bariérová funkce kůže. Hydratace rohové vrstvy se měří také bioinženýrskými metodami. tyto metody jsou založeny na elektrických vlastnostech kůže. Tato práce se zabývá hodnocením hydratace kůže, funkcí kožní bariéry a srovnáním měřících přístrojů. K měření bylo použito několik různých přístrojů. Tewameter měří evaporaci vody nad pokožkou, Skicon 200-EX měří elektrickou konduktanci, zatímco analogický i digitální Corneometr měří elektrickou kapacitanci. Měření byla uskutečněna před specifickým ošetřením a po specifickém ošetření, jako je stripování nebo aplikace kosmetického produktu. Ze získaných výsledků je možno říci, ze hodnoty TEWL se s stripováním zvyšují a hodnoty hydratace se po aplikaci hydratačního produktu také zvyšují. Srovnání měřících přístrojů se hodnotilo Pearson korelačním koeficientem. Koeficienty byly kladné a platné, což znamenalo lineární korelaci mezi dvěma určitými přístroji., The skin protects the organism against the penetration of micro-organism and chemical substances. The skin is a complex of four compartments: the epidermis, the dermo-epidermal junction, the dermis and the hypodermis. The Stratum corneum (SC) is the outermost layer of the epidermis and plays an important role in the dermato-cosmetic science. The SC is composed of protein-enriched corneocytes embedded in a lamellar lipid bilayer. The intactness of the lipid bilayers to corneocytes is presented as barrier function of the skin. The barrier of the SC is not perfect. The water from deeper highly hydrated layers can diffuse to the surface. This flux of the water is called Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and can be measured. The measurement of TEWL is a non-invasive bioengineering method for assessing the skin barrier function. The hydration of the SC can be assessed by non-invasive bioengineering methods as well. These methods are based on the electrical properties of the skin. This thesis deals with an assessment of the hydration of the skin, the skin barrier function and the comparison of instruments. Different types of instruments were used for measurements. The Tewameter TM 210 measures the gradient of water vapour above the skin surface, the Skicon 200-EX measures electrical conductance, the Corneometer analogical CM 825 and Corneometer digital CM 825 measure electrical capacitance. The bioengineering measurements were carried out before any treatment of the skin and after some specific treatments such as application of specific products or stripping with adhesive tape. From gained results it is possible to claim that the TEWL increased after stripping and the hydration of the skin increased after application of moisturize products. Comparison of instruments was assessed by the Pearson correlation coefficient. The correlation coefficients were positive and significant, that means that the two variables were linearly correlated.