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Shoaling wave fields generated in laboratory experiments were analyzed to determine the sensitivity of nonlinear interactions to the directional distributions of incident waves. Peaks in the directional spectra observed in shallow water were consistent with near resonating, quadratic interactions between two primary waves transferring energy to a third wave with the sum frequency and vector sum wavenumber of the primary waves. Directionally colinear waves forced a higher-frequency wave propagating in the same direction as the primary waves, while directionally spread (i.e., noncolinear) primary waves forced a higher-frequency wave that propagated in a direction between those of the interacting primary waves. Deepwater wave fields with similar frequency spectra but different directional spectra evolved to different shallow-water directional spectra, yet their shallow-water frequency spectra were remarkably similar. This result suggests that the shape of the directional spectrum of the incident wave field has only a small effect on the magnitudes of nonlinear energy transfer during shoaling. The principal effect of directionality in the incident wave field is on the directions, not the amplitudes, of the nonlinearly generated waves. The laboratory data demonstrate clearly the importance of triad interactions between noncolinear and colinear shoaling waves.

The predictions of linear and nonlinear (Boussinesq) shoaling wave models for nonbreaking unidirectional surface gravity waves are compared to field observations, with particular emphasis on quantities that may be important for cross-shore sediment transport. The extensive data sets were obtained on two natural beaches, span water depths between 1 and 10 m, and include incident wave power spectra with narrow, broad, and bimodal shapes. Significant wave heights varied between approximately 30 and 100 cm, and peak periods between approximately 8 and 18 s. The evolution of total variances of sea surface elevation, cross-shore velocity, and horizontal acceleration is modeled at least qualitatively well by both linear and nonlinear theories. Only the nonlinear theory predicts the increasingly asymmetric sea surface elevations and horizontal velocities (pitched-forward wave shapes) and the weaker variation of skewness (difference between crest and trough profiles) which are observed to occur during shoaling. The nonlinear theory also models qualitatively well the large skewed accelerations which occur during the passage of asymmetric waves.

The rapid spatial recurrence of weakly nonlinear and weakly dispersive progressive shallow-water waves is examined using a numerical integration technique on the discretized and truncated form of the Boussinesq equations. This study primarily examines recurrence in wave fields with Ursell number O(1) and characterizes the sensitivity of recurrence to initial spectral shape and number of allowed frequency modes. It is shown that the rapid spatial recurrence is not an inherent property of the considered Boussinesq systems for evolution distances of 10-50 wavelengths. The main result of the study is that highly truncated Boussinesq models of resonant shallow-water ocean surface gravity waves predict rapid multiple recurrence cycles, but that this is an artifact dependent on the number of allowed modes. For initial conditions consisting of essentially all energy concentrated in a single mode, damping of the recurrence cycles increases as the number of low-power background modes increases. When more than 32 modes are allowed, the recurrence behavior is relatively insensitive to the number of allowed modes.

The spatial evolution of a directionally spread wave field on a near-planar natural beach is examined using data from longshore arrays of pressure sensors and wave staffs at depths 10.3 and 4.1 m. High-resolution frequency-directional spectra from the deeper array are used to initialize a linear refraction model, and the resulting model predictions are compared with frequency-directional measurements at the shallow array. Linear theory inaccurately predicts both the shapes of directional spectra in shallow water and the total variances in some frequency bands. The discrepancies are largest for frequencies associated with maxima in the bicoherence spectrum, suggesting the importance of nonlinear effects.

Laboratory and field measurements of suspended sediment in the nearshore suggest that fluid accelerations are an important factor in sediment transport by oscillatory waves. Here, Eulerian accelerations of the cross-shore velocity are calculated from measurements of velocity obtained by an array of bottom-mounted electromagnetic flow meters spanning a natural surf zone. Large shoreward accelerations of brief duration are associated with the steep front faces of both near-breaking and breaking waves. Weaker offshore accelerations of longer duration occur during passage of the more gently sloped rear faces. The acceleration field is thus strongly skewed in the shoreward direction. Power spectra and bispectra indicate, as expected, that statistics of the acceleration field are significantly influenced by high-frequency motions but are rather insensitive to surf beat.