1. UIAGM Ropehandling Techniques.
- Author
-
Cloutier, K. Ross
- Abstract
The Union Internationale des Associations des Guides de Montagne's (UIAGM) rope handling techniques are intended to form the standard for guiding ropework worldwide. These techniques have become the legal standard for instructional institutions and commercial guiding organizations in UIAGM member countries: Austria, Canada, France, Germany, Great Britain, Japan, Italy, New Zealand, Norway, Peru, and Switzerland. An application for the United States to become a member country is currently in process. Anchors are intended to protect the guide and client from falling if all else fails. The two categories of anchors are described, along with construction of anchors, arrangement of ropes and slings, and the master point of attachment. The ropes methods used by guides are related to those of climbers, skiers, and mountaineers in regular climbing. However, modifications to technique and application often vary from nonguided climbing. Such modifications are discussed for short-roping, end-roping, top-roping, and rappelling. Guides seldom use emergency and rescue techniques, but when they are needed, the response must be fast and efficient to prevent an accident from escalating. A rescue in the vertical environment is described as a series of load transfers. Includes illustrations and six sample problems in rope handling. (SV)
- Published
- 1996