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The fashion and textile industry significantly contributes to environmental degradation through unsustainable manufacturing and waste disposal practices, particularly in South Africa's retail sector. This study examines the retail merchandise cycles of two prominent clothing retailers based in Cape Town, South Africa to identify stages that generate substantial fashion and textile waste and proposes a model to enhance sustainability within the industry. Adopting a qualitative, interpretive research paradigm, data were collected through purposive sampling and in-depth interviews with key personnel, primarily buyers, within the selected companies. The research involved mapping and analyzing each retail cycle phase to identify excessive waste generation points. The findings revealed that retailers produce considerable amounts of waste (pre- and post-consumer) due to fast fashion practices and insufficient recycling systems. While both companies acknowledged the importance of sustainability, there was a notable lack of concrete policies and limited visibility into supplier processes concerning environmental impact. The study identified specific departments and operations within the retail cycles responsible for significant waste production, highlighting the need for systemic changes. Based on these insights, an improved retail cycle model was developed emphasizing waste reduction through sustainable sourcing, enhanced recycling initiatives, and stricter supplier compliance measures. The proposed model aims to minimize environmental harm by integrating sustainability into all aspects of the retail process.

This contribution addresses the sustainable clothing buying behaviour of Generations X and Y. The aim of the paper is to analyse the main features of sustainable clothing buying behaviour within Generations X and Y and to suggest some marketing activities for fashion companies. The theoretical background contains information from professional literature, scientific journals indexed in WOS and Scopus, and websites regarding the main trends in CSR, sustainable development, and sustainable buying behaviour, with a focus on the fashion industry. The analysis comprises multiple stages: the creation of a questionnaire through Google Forms, the selection of respondents from generations X and Y in the territory of the Slovak Republic, the analysis of respondents' answers through descriptive statistics, and the evaluation of research hypotheses via inductive statistics. Among the general research methods, historical-logical methods, analysis, synthesis, and comparison were used, whereas specialised research methods included methods of descriptive statistics and methods of inductive statistics implemented in the SPSS program. The questionnaire consisted of 11 questions based on previous research on the study topics and was completed by 139 respondents. The identification questions sought information from the participants about their identification as Generation X or Y, their gender, and their income. The next step was a comparison of shopping places, types of clothing, buying factors, and frequency and awareness of sustainable trends. The last 3 questions were framed according to previous research and were evaluated via descriptive statistics methods as well as inductive statistics. Research hypotheses are focused on relationships between the use of sustainable trends and belonging to a specific generation, the degree of influence of sustainable trends on buying behaviour and belonging to a specific generation, and the degree of rationality when purchasing clothes and belonging to a specific generation. On the basis of these tests, only the second hypothesis (influence of sustainable trends) was further analysed. Research results indicate that fashion brands can utilise slow fashion for different types of marketing communication to effectively target Generations X and Y, with a particular focus on influencer marketing on social networks. The limitations include various definitions of generations (birth years), possible cognitive distortions and the subjective answers of respondents. The fashion industry is an essential component of the creative industry and creative economy. Research could be extended by comparing sustainable clothing buying behaviour between inhabitants from the region with the above-average value of the regional NUTS3 creative index (Bratislava region) and inhabitants from other NUTS3 regions. Research could also be extended by comparing the effects of irrationality on generations in the context of behavioural economics. The end of the contribution expresses the benefits of this research for economics, the environment, and society.

Abstract Since the late twentieth century, the global fashion industry has been increasingly embracing the business model known as fast fashion. Characterised by rapid production cycles, fleeting trends, low-cost garments and large-scale production, fast fashion seems to meet consumer demand for affordable and trendy clothing. However, its environmental impact as a major polluter poses significant challenges to sustainability and circularity initiatives. This article presents the results of a systematic literature review, exploring the unsustainable consequences of fast fashion, focusing on both demand and supply side, from a geographical perspective. Using a Global North–Global South framework, it explores differences in socio-economic structures, consumption and production patterns, access to resources and environmental impacts. The analysis suggests that a fair and equitable transition towards a sustainable and circular fashion industry will require the links between business, society and nature to be reconsidered, to avoid perpetuating the inequalities associated with the global linear capitalist economy. The findings highlight the importance of both markets and institutions in sustainable growth. In the Global North, the most frequently discussed topics relate to investment and research and development with respect to new technologies or system innovations often with the support of well-structured political guidance. Conversely, in the Global sustainable initiatives tend to be scattered, country-specific and intricately tied to particular socio-economic and cultural contexts.

Artykuł podejmuje kwestie zagadnienie rozumienia i postrzegania mody w kategoriach dizajnu. Aby wskazać celowość takiego kierunku badań, autor analizuje dwie wystawy poświęcone modzie. Pierwszą z nich jest Items: Is Fashion Modern? przygotowana przez nowojorskie Museum of Modern Art (MoMA), drugą zaś Fast Fashion: Dark Side of Fashion zorganizowana przez Museum für Kunst und Gewerbe w Hamburgu. Z analizy wynika, że mówienie o modzie nie przez sztukę i jej język, ale przez kategorie dizajnu pozwala zobaczyć ją pełniej, ująć więcej problemów. By jednak zmiana w tym kierunku mogła się dokonać, potrzebna jest weryfikacja tego, co rozumiemy przez słowo moda. Jedno z rozwiązań przynosi badaczka z Australii, Alice Payne. Zaproponowany przez nią podział ułatwiłby patrzenie na modę nie przez sztukę, a właśnie przez dizajn, wzbogaciłby język, jakim o modzie się z reguły mówi, i w konsekwencji jej społeczne postrzeganie. Ostatecznie autor proponuje również, aby odpowiednio wzbogacić o perspektywę dizajnu także historię mody, by dyscyplina ta nabrała nowego znaczenia i tym samym wspomagała przemianę mody w przyszłości.

AbstractConsumer interactions on social media have been analysed in the literature as sources of information about their ability to generate engagement and knowledge about how to interact with brands. The present study contributes to this line of research, focusing on empirically determining those elements that affect the interaction between a fast fashion brand and its users, providing central elements of brand strategies on Instagram. This study examines the engagement generated by Primark posts on Instagram based on three coding categories that analyse the content of the message, the communication strategy and the formal and product category aspects present in the posts. This study therefore identifies the variables with the greatest potential to generate engagement with this brand’s posts on Instagram, which in turn predicts previous unexplored outcomes such as brand image and consumer loyalty. This study also provides valuable academic insights and guides fast fashion brands in their social media strategies.

The fast fashion linear business model and its widespread consumption practices have instigated numerous environmental consequences, prompting extensive research into sustainable consumer behavior. This article conducts a thorough and quantitative analysis of the contemporary research landscape of the fashion industry and its ecological impact. Spanning from 2012 to 2023, our review explores 119 articles sourced from journals at the intersection of clean production and the fashion industry. The analysis reveals two central research focal points and identifies 77 keywords embedded in the knowledge base. Three overarching knowledge domains emerge from this exploration. We construct a cohesive narrative by synthesizing critical knowledge junctures, the knowledge base, and identified domains, resulting in a knowledge structure comprising five key concepts. Moreover, keywords are thoughtfully organized under their respective knowledge domains. As a synthesis of these insights, this article presents a robust knowledge roadmap, serving as a compass for a nuanced understanding of the current state of sustainability within the dynamic realm of the fashion industry.

The worldwide fashion business is seeing swift expansion, but, the adoption of rapid fashion has detrimental effects on ecological sustainability. Sustainable halal fashion, which emphasises quality, sustainability, and ethical values, offers a solution to address this. This study looks at how sustainable halal fashion can strengthen the slow fashion trend and proposes strategic steps for its development. This research employs a qualitative approach to literature study, gathering information from books, articles, and mass media. The results show that sustainable halal fashion contributes to slow fashion and has potential to develop sustainably by increasing public understanding, developing local raw materials, increasing production efficiency, efficiently utilizing supplies and reducing wastage in the manufacturing process., building collaboration. The conclusion is that sustainable halal fashion provides an innovative solution to overcome the fashion industry's negative impact and strengthen the slow fashion trend.

Hızlı moda, düşük maliyetli ve hızlı üretilen giysilerle moda endüstrisinde bir devrim yaratmıştır, ancakbu hız çevresel sürdürülebilirliği tehdit ederek iklim krizini tetiklemektedir. Sürdürülebilirlik hedefleridoğrultusunda diğer sektörlerde olduğu gibi moda sektöründen de sürdürülebilir üretim ve tüketimpratiklerine öncü olmaları beklenmektedir. İletişim, sürdürülebilir tüketim pratikleri için kilit role sahipolup, Birleşmiş Milletler (BM), markaların sürdürülebilir tüketim konusunda farkındalık yaratacakve sürdürülebilir bir moda akımı yaratacak iletişim kampanyaları geliştirmelerini önermektedir. Budoğrultuda çalışmamızın amacı, moda markalarının sürdürülebilir üretim ve tüketim (SDG 12) kapsamındayaptıkları iletişim faaliyetlerinin İstanbul’da yaşayan 18-25 yaş arası genç tüketicilerin sürdürülebilirlikve marka algısına yansımasını incelemektir. Yargısal kartopu örnekleme stratejisi ile İstanbul’daki çeşitliüniversitelerden 12 katılımcı ile derinlemesine görüşmeler yapılmıştır. Veriler, Durumsal ProblemÇözme Teorisi (STOPS) ışığında, anlatı analizi yöntemiyle değerlendirilmiştir. Araştırma sonuçları, gençtüketicilerin çoğunun sürdürülebilir tüketim (ST) konusunda yüksek bilgi ve ilgi düzeyine sahip olduklarınıgöstermiştir. Hızlı moda markalarının (HMM) sürdürülebilirlik mesajlarının farkında olmalarına rağmensatın alma kararlarında farklı görüşlere sahip oldukları tespit edilmiştir.

The fast fashion trend is gaining popularity due to the presence of fashion influencers on social media despite its adverse impact on environmental sustainability. This research aims to explore the fashion influencers communication strategy, assess how fashion influencers endorsements contribute to the formation of consumptive culture, and investigate fashion influencers endorsement concepts that are more ethical. The qualitative research is used by employing the observations on six Indonesian fashion influencers Instagram accounts, and the interviews with three informants confirmed as being with three informants confirmed as affected by fashion influencers endorsement. The data were analysed using media content analysis and thematic analysis. The study concluded with three main findings. Firstly, fashion influencers employs persuasive and interactive communication strategies. Secondly, the formation of a consumptive culture results from the fashion expertise of influencers, which nurtures consumer satisfaction by promoting a consumptive lifestyle among consumers, even though they ultimately assess their consumption. Lastly, fashion influencers can be aligned to reconstruct more ethical endorsement by applying responsibility, sanctity, and sustainability principles. Tren fast fashion saat ini semakin populer karena kehadiran fashion influencer di media sosial meskipun memiki dampak buruk terhadap keberlanjutan lingkungan. Penelitian ini bertujuan untuk mengeksplorasi strategi komunikasi fashion influencer, menemukan pola konstruksi konten promosi fashion influencer terhadap budaya konsumtif, serta memberikan kerangka endorsement oleh fashion influencer yang lebih etis. Penelitian ini menggunakan pendekatan kualitatif dengan metode pengumpulan data berupa observasi terhadap enam orang fashion influencer Indonesia serta wawancara terhadap tiga orang yang terkonfirmasi telah terdampak oleh konten promosi fashion influencer. Data yang ada kemudian dianalisis menggunakan konten analisis media dan analisis tematik. Hasil penelitian menghasilkan tiga temuan utama. Pertama, strategi komunikasi fashion influencer yakni persuasif dan interaktif. Kedua, terbentuknya budaya konsumtif berawal dari keahlian fashion influencer yang kemudian menimbulkan kepuasan konsumen dengan mempromosikan gaya hidup konsumtif, meskipun pada akhirnya konsumen mengevaluasi pola konsumsinya. Terakhir, fashion influencer dapat diarahkan untuk merekonstruksi pendekatan endorsement-nya agar lebih etis, dengan menerapkan prinsip tanggung jawab, sakral, dan keberlanjutan.

This study tests a brand extension in fast fashion to explore the extension’s effect on the parent brand. It investigates whether extensions to varyingly distant product classes modify customers’ attitudes toward the parent brand. University students from the Technical University of Liberec, the Faculty of Economics (Czech Republic), aged 22-25 years, participated in an online survey for this study. The number of respondents was 310. The outcomes are relevant for this segment of customers. The model with classic brand extension factors (perceived fit (FIT), attitudes toward the brand extension (ATE), parent brand attitude change (PBCH)) was constructed. Factors of fashion leaders and emotional variables (e.g., trust and loyalty) were added to the model. The model was tested using structural equation modeling (SEM) in AMOS software and was statistically significant (Chi-squared value of 6.402, p = 0.171). A positive relationship was observed between FIT and ATE (β = 0.534, p-value = 0.000), the same as trust and ATE (β = 0.693, p-value = 0.000). Equally, ATE had a significant positive impact on PBCH (β = 0.722, p-value = 0.000) and trust and loyalty (β = 0.649, p-value = 0.000). Loyalty negatively affects ATE (β = -0.126, p-value = 0.010), indicating that these customers may have problems with brand extension, similar to a fashion leader (β = -0.126, p-value = 0.010). TRUST has a negative effect on the PBCH (β = -0.338, p-value = 0.000). Insights derived from this study hold substantial relevance for marketers in fast fashion aiming to prepare brand extensions effectively. AcknowledgmentThis work is supported by the Technical University of Liberec, Faculty of Economics – internal grant.

Despite the growing cognizance of Generation Z (Gen Z) fashion consumers about the externalities of fast fashion, an attitude-behaviour gap persists in their willingness to pay for sustainable fashion. This study uses dual-processing theory to examine how nudging communications in online fashion retail influence Gen Z's sustainable fashion choices and willingness to pay. It also explores how Gen Z's fashion-related knowledge and involvement and ecological consciousness moderate the effects of nudging. The study used a vignette-based experiment with dummy webpages from a leading Indian online fashion store to test nudging effects on sustainable fashion brands. The subjects were 252 Gen Z fashion consumers from India. The findings revealed a significant association between nudging conditions with participants' fashion choices with verbal nudges having a stronger influence than visual nudges. Moderation tests indicated that verbal nudging is more effective for those with high environmental orientation and high fashion familiarity.

This study investigates the interplay between Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) engagement and pricing strategies in shaping consumer purchase intentions in the fast fashion industry. Using a scenario-based experimental design with 267 participants, this research explores how different levels of CSR and two distinct price points influence purchasing behavior. Additionally, the moderating effects of individual differences, such as consumer wealth, motivations for sustainable behavior, and income, are examined. The findings indicate that higher levels of CSR engagement significantly enhance purchase intentions, particularly when combined with higher price points, perhaps due to consumer perceptions of CSR programs associated with more expensive brands as more authentic. However, price remains a critical factor for lower-income consumers, revealing an “ethical consumption gap” where affordability outweighs ethical concerns. Extrinsic motivations, such as social pressure, strongly influence wealthier consumers’ decisions, while intrinsic motivations show a more complex relationship with purchasing behavior. The findings provide practical insights for fast fashion brands, suggesting that aligning CSR with competitive pricing and authentic messaging is crucial for appealing to both price-sensitive and ethically conscious consumers.

The continuous level of consumption in the fast fashion industry has a concerning effect and needs to be addressed through a strategic approach, as it has a considerable environmental, social, and economic impact. The study contributes to a better understanding of the barriers hindering the transition toward a more sustainable future in the fast fashion industry through qualitative research. We conducted the qualitative research using the Grounded Theory, which allows an evaluation from different and multiple perspectives, resulting in a more exhaustive and justified result. Our approach was exploratory and the results will be tested in future studies. The purpose of the paper was to map the road to sustainable fashion by understanding the obstacles/barriers, and solutions/drivers for sustainable development. The sustainability fast fashion organizational barriers were identified in the international literature through a structured literature review and further tested for the Romanian market through interviews. After the NVivo Analysis, the identified barriers referenced the most to least, from a Romanian organisational dimensions perspective were financial barriers, insufficient management engagement, lack of Romanian governmental support and infrastructure, eco-friendly packaging, and stakeholder and supplier barriers. The most mentioned driver dimension from an organisational point of view was the existence of a financial reward system for stakeholders, funding programs from the Government and EU, the implementation of mandatory regulations, and the possibility of creating an infrastructure.

The fast fashion industry has been criticized for negatively impacting the economy, environment, and social justice. Consequently, many brands adopt sustainable marketing practices to promote eco-friendly manufacturing and encourage sustainable purchase behaviour. To explore this trend, a cross-sectional survey was conducted among fashion brand consumers using a quantitative research design. The survey data was analyzed using variance-based partial least squares-structural equation modelling (PLS-SEM). The results showed that sustainable marketing practices can be supported by creating a positive brand image and building trust. Such practices can positively influence consumers' perception of sustainability and promote brand loyalty, which can lead to sustainable purchasing behaviour. The study provides valuable insights into sustainable marketing strategies that fashion brands can adopt to promote sustainable practices and policies in local markets.

This study aimed to identify the factors that comprise the drivers of, and barriers to, the implementation of fast fashion clothing in the retail industry in South Africa via a case study of one of South Africa’s major fast fashion retailers. Using a quantitative, questionnaire-based, e-mailed survey to collect data from a self-selected convenience sample of 78 managers and employees, the study findings confirmed the importance of both information (store feedback and stock planning) and supplier relationships (capability and flexibility) as drivers of fast fashion. Overall, ‘capability’ was perceived overall as the most important factor, enabling adjustments to range, order size and market closer to the selling season. Barriers were confirmed as issues related to product (quality, authenticity, perishability) and social responsibility (environmental and exploitation/ethics) in the opinion of this retailer. Although both were perceived as important, environmental issues dominated, with respondents seeing the wastefulness and excessive consumption of fast fashion as the main barrier to its implementation in South Africa. The first research of its type in South Africa, the study contributes to knowledge about fast fashion in South Africa, and possibly in other developing countries, and should assist with the implementation of this strategy by South African retailers. Furthermore, a clear understanding of some of the negative opinions about FF might assist with a more socially responsible implementation.

Just as fast food is produced and consumed quickly, fast fashion, which mass produces and sells clothing by quickly chasing the latest trends targeting the global market, forms an axis of the clothing industry. However, in the fast fashion ecosystem, clothing is mass-produced and easily discarded, and the resulting environmental problems are becoming a social concern. Recently, consumers' environmental awareness has been increasing, and as ESG management that focuses on the environment has emerged, the clothing industry is also responding strategically to the changed environment, including eco-friendly production methods, use of eco-friendly materials, and recycling of inventory. In this way, this review analyzed the current status and problems of fast fashion and social responses to it, and suggested measures that society should pursue for an eco-friendly clothing industry in the future.

The integration of sustainability as a theme, either explicitly or in more subtle formats and techniques, is becoming increasingly prevalent within the realm of marketing and brand communication. The purpose of this study is to examine the effects of two different sustainable marketing initiatives employed on the website of a prominent fast fashion brand on consumer perceptions and intentions to modify their shopping behavior. The examination focuses on understanding the nature and extent of shoppers’ responses to these marketing initiatives. Given the complexity of consumer perceptions, 100 semi-structured interviews with shoppers in the field were conducted to better understand the phenomenon under research. We transcribed shoppers’ responses and conducted a qualitative content analysis of their self-reports. Our results show that fast fashion shoppers demonstrate a spectrum of responses. Sustainable marketing initiatives that enable consumers to be actively involved were perceived more positively. In conclusion, it can be inferred that fast fashion brands engage in sustainable marketing primarily to cultivate positive emotions and assuage ethical concerns among consumers, thereby fostering brand loyalty and customer retention.

The clothing industry has experienced global and sustained growth in the last decades due, among other factors, to the decentralisation of production in this sector and its consequent lowering of prices, but also to the effect of the unceasing demand that fashion generates. Simultaneously, the number of people employed in the textile sector has been growing in economically developing countries under precarious labour conditions. The objective of this study is to analyse the level of knowledge and awareness of the Spanish population about the working conditions in clothing manufacturing at production sites. To achieve this, we applied statistical analysis to data collected from a sample (n = 3000) of Spanish fashion consumers. The main results show a society with a high degree of concern for labour conditions in the textile sector, as well as for the environmental repercussions triggered by this type of production. Considering the differences based on socio-demographic variables, we find that women, older consumers, and respondents with higher education show a greater degree of concern about the working conditions in the clothing industry. Along the same lines, respondents who are ideologically left wing present a higher degree of concern than respondents from the extreme right.

The rise of “fast fashion” has driven up the production of low-cost, short-lived clothing, significantly increasing global textile fiber production and, consequently, exacerbating environmental pollution. This study investigated the ecotoxicological effects of different types of anthropogenic microfibers—cotton, polyester, and mixed fibers (50% cotton: 50% polyester)—on marine organisms, specifically sea urchin embryos. All tested fibers exhibited toxicity, with cotton fibers causing notable effects on embryonic development even at environmentally relevant concentrations. The research also simulated a scenario where microfibers were immersed in seawater for 30 days to assess changes in toxicity over time. The results showed that the toxicity of microfibers increased with both concentration and exposure duration, with polyester being the most toxic among the fibers tested. Although synthetic fibers have been the primary focus of previous research, this study highlights that natural fibers like cotton, which are often overlooked, can also be toxic due to the presence of harmful additives. These natural fibers, despite decomposing faster than synthetic ones, can persist in aquatic environments for extended periods. The findings underline the critical need for further research on both natural and synthetic microfibers to understand their environmental impact and potential threats to marine ecosystems and sea urchin populations.

Three studies are carried out in an attempt to provide a picture of clothing consumption and knowledge of fast fashion among young consumers, and investigate possibilities for more sustainable choices through analyses of the second-hand clothing market. The first study collects data from different second-hand clothing markets, whether direct from owner or through a second seller. Savings are calculated by scraping original and sale prices on regular markets. Content analyses of second-hand markets show a wide variation in discounts depending upon the type of clothing and channel used to purchase. We find independent resellers offer significant savings on higher quality clothing, but reselling used fast-fashion is not an attractive option due to its initial low price point. The second and third studies assess the attitude, behavior, and knowledge of fast fashion among young consumers and the possibility of education to decrease fast fashion consumption. These studies document the desire for fashionable clothing and expose the limited budget among young consumers. Some respondents spend all their discretionary income on clothing, and many times, purchased items are never worn. There is some indication that educating young consumers about real environmental impacts might shift purchases from quantity to quality, but educating consumers about the harm of fast fashion may be a slow difficult task.

The purpose of this study was to identify motivational factors for consumers in making a purchase decision for a fast fashion product. The term fast fashion is used to refer to cheaper replicas of luxury fashion trends. Apart from impacting the environment adversely, fast fashion has several other issues as well. Fast fashion has many sustainability issues but its demand is growing at a tremendous pace. The motives for the preference for fast fashion were explored in this study. Both primary and secondary data were used to conduct this research. The primary data was collected for this study via questionnaire. All the factors are rated on the 7-point Likert scale. Furthermore, the laddering technique of interviewing was employed to investigate the underlying values. The study revealed that “creating self-identity” is the most influencing motive for consumers in making a purchase decision for a fast fashion product, while “showing dominance” is the least influencing motive for consumers in making a purchase decision for a fast fashion product. This study offers insight into the factors influencing buying decisions for a fast fashion product. This research can help address the issue of sustainability in the fashion industry. These findings can also be used to promote sustainable fashion.

Being one of the most exploitative and environmentally unfriendly industries in the world, modern fashion industry is gradually transforming from fast to slow, showing an urgent need for sustainability. Hence, conscious or sustainable fashion as a multidimensional and multifaceted phenomenon can be defined as an awareness about all the inputs and processes in garment making industry, including natural and human resources. Despite all increased media attention to sustainability and related issues, there is still a big gap between theoretical and practical research in the sphere of arts and humanities and other branches of science, such as economy, politics, engineering, building, education etc. Thus, the article analyzes media coverage of sustainability development, namely sustainable fashion, through the prism of modern linguistics. The main purpose, objectives and language data have predetermined the use of general scientific methods (namely, deduction, data collection, interpretation and verification) as well as methods of linguistic research (namely, lexico-semantic and content analyses). The study involves 30 textual fragments selected via continuous sampling method from world-renowned fashion and style magazines, such as Cosmopolitan, Elle, Harper’s Bazaar, Marie Claire, Vanity Fair, Vogue. Moreover, 20 visual images have been chosen with the same intent. Textual and visual content has been studied within the framework of Multimodal Discourse Analysis (MDA), aiming at synergy of two modes of communication, inter alia, verbal and non-verbal means of presenting information in media. As a result of the analysis it has been confirmed that journalists and columnists of high-end mass media on fashion are using their popularity, reputation and persuasive potential in order to establish a long-term pivot to sustainability in their readers’ minds.

Berkat pengaruhnya yang besar terhadap konsumen di seluruh dunia, fast fashion mungkin adalah istilah yang sangat akrab bagi banyak orang. Meskipun populer, fast fashion juga dikenal sebagai model bisnis yang memiliki rantai pasokan yang sangat rumit. Karena proses rantai pasokan yang kompleks itu, mereka diketahui melakukan praktik yang tidak etis terhadap para pekerjanya dan juga lingkungan. Sayangnya, sebagai satu negara pemasok fast fashion terbesar di dunia, Bangladesh tampaknya tidak keberatan dengan sifat destruktif fast fashion dan menutup mata terhadap dampak yang diciptakan oleh industry tersebut. Oleh karena itu, penelitian ini bertujuan untuk memberikan penjelasan tentang bagaimana dinamika offshore outsourcing dalam rantai pasokan fast fashion menyebabkan penurunan kualitas lingkungan Bangladesh melalui sektor pakaian jadi dan bagaimana pemerintah terlibat dalam kasus ini di bawah pengaruh neoliberal menggunakan metode kualitatif dan pendekatan studi kasus. Hasilnya, peneliti menemukan bahwa strategi offshore outsourcing dalam bisnis fast fashion menyebabkan banyak dampak buruk terhadap lingkungan seperti kontaminasi air, polusi udara, dan penumpukan limbah padat di atas permukaan tanah.

Theoretical background: The worldwide fashion business has confronted the demand to transit from a linear to a circular business model that involves a series of fundamental alterations to the hitherto highly efficient strategies. As a consequence, a conceptual issue concerning fashion brand value creation has emerged. This applies notably to luxury, premium and fast fashion brands. Satisfying the expectations of customers and stakeholders should cease to be simply a matter of manufacturing a varied and impressive product line, since it has to be both sustainable and sensitive to the emergent requirements of the natural and social environment. Along with the aforementioned challenges, the key messages conveyed by brands through the marketing communication are also undergoing a transformation. Purpose of the article: To present the perspectives on building fashion brand equity in a circular economy, including risks and opportunities. Research methods: A review of scientific and specialised studies, selected using specific keywords, was undertaken. Data sources included academic resources: books, articles, market data (e.g. McKinsey & Company) and statistics published on the Statista platform, as well as specialised resources: expert articles, reports from organisations approaching the issue under research (e.g. EU, UN, Fashion Revolution, the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, etc.). The search area was composed of electronic resources: licensed, open access websites and topic-related websites. The aim of the data analysis was to systematise background knowledge through an inductive method. Main findings: 1. The fashion business needs a change of mission, vision and strategy along with cooperation and coopetition among brands of the luxury goods, mass goods and organic MSMEs markets within its ecosystems in order to achieve the expected brand value. 2. The implementation of circular economy model in the fashion business implies the necessity to restrict overproduction and overconsumption of clothes and accessories at the same time as utilising sustainable raw materials and production technologies. Furthermore, it requires the dissemination of the slow fashion model, which incorporates the reuse of clothes by other users (rental of clothes, second hand, upcycling). 3. Change of consumer behaviour, popularisation of research findings and expertise from independent organizations is a factor stimulating fashion brands to act towards a circular economy in order to maintain high brand value.

This exploratory study analyses the level of the development of the eight key competencies in sustainability of 237 students in the 7th–10th grades, when confronted with a real conflict situation associated with the production and consumption of ‘fast fashion’. Their responses were categorised into four levels, representing the degree of development of each competence. The results reflect a low level of competence development, with no significant differences among academic year groups. The competence where the highest level of development was reached was the inter-personal competence, as students recognised that the consumption of fast fashion contributes to the labour exploitation of others. However, this did not prompt students to question the prevailing consumerist values in our society (values-thinking competence), their own practises (implementation competence), or their own contribution to the problem (intra-personal competence). Therefore, it seems necessary to address different socio-environmental issues, critically analyse our daily actions, and thus promote these competencies in sustainability in schools. These will enable students to actively participate in environmental conservation from the perspective of environmental and social justice.

Purpose – Brand centrality is a religion-like brand–customer relationship, which refers to the extent to which a brand is in the center or heart of a consumer’s life. While its role in the fast fashion industry is prominent, its drivers and effects have not been comprehensively studied. This study aims to investigate the relationships between three psychological drivers (i.e. fashion-conscious, chronic shopping orientation and self-esteem), one behavioral driver (i.e. the average frequency of shopping), brand centrality and relationship quality in the fast fashion industry. Design/methodology/approach – A survey of 250 fast fashion consumers was conducted and partial least squares-structural equation modeling (PLS-SEM) was used to analyze the data. Findings – The study shows that fashion consciousness and chronic shopping orientation are positively related to brand centrality, whereas self-esteem is negatively related to brand centrality. The findings also show that shopping frequency moderates the relationship between fashion consciousness and brand centrality, and between chronic shopping orientation and brand centrality. Post hoc analysis indicates that brand centrality fully mediates the relationship between chronic shopping orientation and relationship quality. Originality/value – This study is one of the first studies to investigate the psychological and behavioral drivers of brand centrality. ¿Cómo pueden las marcas ocupar un lugar Central en la vida de los consumidores? Objetivo – La centralidad de la marca es una relación religiosa entre marca y cliente que se refiere al grado en que una marca está en el centro o corazón de la vida de un consumidor. Aunque su papel en la industria de la moda rápida es destacado, sus impulsores y efectos no se han estudiado exhaustivamente. El presente estudio investiga las relaciones entre tres impulsores psicológicos (la conciencia de la moda, la orientación a las compras crónicas y la autoestima), un impulsor conductual (la frecuencia media de las compras), la centralidad de la marca y la calidad de las relaciones en el sector de la moda rápida. Diseño – Se realizó una encuesta a 250 consumidores de moda rápida y se utilizó (PLS-SEM) para analizar los datos. Resultados – El estudio muestra que la conciencia de la moda y la orientación a las compras crónicas están positivamente relacionadas con la centralidad de marca, mientras que la autoestima está negativamente relacionada con la centralidad de marca. Los resultados también muestran que la frecuencia de compra modera la relación entre la conciencia de la moda y la centralidad de marca, y entre la orientación de compra crónica y la centralidad de marca. El análisis post-hoc indica que la centralidad de la marca media totalmente la relación entre la orientación a las compras crónicas y la calidad de las relaciones. Originalidad – Este estudio es uno de los primeros en investigar los impulsores psicológicos y conductuales de la centralidad de marca. 目的 – 品牌中心性是一种类似于宗教的品牌-客户关系, 指的是一个品牌在消费者生活中处于中心或核心的程度。虽然它在快速时尚行业中的作用很突出, 但它的驱动和影响还没有得到全面的研究。本研究调查了三个心理驱动因素（即时尚意识、长期购物取向和自尊心）、一个行为驱动因素（即平均购物频率）、品牌中心性和快时尚行业的关系质量之间的关系。 设计/方法/途径 – 对250名快时尚消费者进行了调查, 并使用部分最小二乘法-结构方程模型（PLS-SEM）来分析数据。 结果 – 研究表明, 时尚意识和长期购物取向与品牌中心性呈正相关, 而自尊心与品牌中心性呈负相关。研究结果还显示, 购物频率分别调节了时尚意识以及长期购物导向对品牌中心性的影响。事后分析表明, 品牌中心性在长期购物取向和关系质量之间具有完全中介作用。 原创性/价值 – 本研究是最早研究品牌中心性的心理和行为驱动因素的研究之一。

The aim of this research is to investigate the impact of social media antecedents on brand equity of fast fashion brands, which leads to purchase intention. Based on literature, fast fashion brands rely on e-commerce social media platforms in order to meet the needs and wants of consumers. So, in order to create effective social media presences, the fashion brand should rely on: media interaction, social media sharing, social media credibility, social media relationship, social media customization and social media presence. In this study, the researcher took each dimension and hypothesized them as having a positive significant impact on brand equity, which impacts consumers purchase intentions of fast fashion. This study is quantitative research. It used administrated questionnaires to collect data that is to be analyzed through the SPSS program. The researcher chooses online survey because of the current crisis (covid-19 pandemic). and also chooses the population is Egyptian Middle to upper class youth and young adults (age 16-34) who use social media on a daily basis. The research took place January 2020, following a cross sectional study. The study used the SPSS program to analyze the collected data. The researcher used regular linear multiple regression, correlation and descriptive statistics to get statistical results. The researcher reaches that social media content interaction and social media credibility have an impact on brand equity. The analysis shows that brand equity leads to purchase intentions of fashion.

The textiles production and consumption system is a priority product-value chain for the European Commission in its 2020 Circular Economy Action Plan. The Action Plan foresees a European Union strategy for sustainable textiles in a circular economy with the aim of creating markets for sustainable and circular textile products, services, and business models. The European Environment Agency (EEA) and its Topic Center on Waste and Materials in a Green Economy (ETC/WMGE) have shown that consumption of clothing, footwear, and household textiles in Europe is on average the fourth highest category of environmental and climate impacts from a consumption perspective and from a vantage point that considers the entire life cycle. The fashion industry is responsible for more than 60% of total textiles used and clothing is expected to remain the largest application of textiles in the future. To enable a sustainable and circular textiles system, a transformation of fashion production and consumption is needed. This transformation requires innovation in business-model design, technology, and social practices through the adoption of specific policy making, education, and behavioral change enablers. In this Brief Report, we present a framework to map and advance the implementation and scaling of circular business models. This is illustrated by exploring four different circular business-model approaches for fashion and textiles, including models based on product durability; access models based on renting, leasing, and sharing; garment collection and resale; and recycling and reuse of materials. For each business-model type, we discuss enablers based on technical and social innovations and policy, behavioral change, and education.

There seems to be a consensus across both the fashion system and academia that “fast fashion” has a problem with sustainability. An increase in consumption of cheap and accessible clothing is behind the rise in extraction and pollution across the world seems obvious, and often the solutions offered span from material and technical solutions to awareness-raising and ethical education of consumers. But most of these interventions either implicitly or explicitly push blame on the consumers of cheap goods. It is “they” who consume too much, the consumers of cheap garments. While goods and behaviors readily available to the upper strata of society are deemed sustainable, it is the aspirational consumption of less affluent consumers that needs to be rectified. This article examines how the general discourse on sustainable fashion strikes unevenly at the lower rungs of social hierarchies, amplifying differences in privilege and wealth while also moralizing, preaching down to, and denigrating the desires of the poor. Using Felix Guattari’s framework of the three ecologies, the discussion examines some familiar tropes in sustainability discourse, focusing on three lines: the emphasis on industrial and technological solutionism, the undermining of democratic principles, and the emotional besmirching of aspirations. These three tendencies add up to a contemporary equivalent of sumptuary laws aiming to hold back the social mobility and lowly desires of the masses. While this may not be the intent of the promoters of sustainable fashion, a thoughtless and single-minded critique of fast fashion impacts the dissemination of agency and blame across the definitions of sustainability. The article calls for practitioners to examine the premises of sustainable fashion more closely. Any serious discussion around fashion must start with the question: What is to be sustained?

Objective: The objective of this article is to explain an ultra-fast fashion business model and to distinguish it from the fast fashion business model as a new, innovative concept in the fashion industry that was created during turbulent times to cope with new challenges. Research Design & Methods: The article is a single case study with an emphasis on undertaking an integrative literature review. Findings: This ultra-fast fashion business model changed the balance of power in the fashion industry. Taking advantage of digital-only presence, extensive use of social media, AI and big data analyses, collaborative consumption, quick response, frequent assortment changes, low prices, and an ambiguous approach to the principles of corporate responsibility, the ultra-fast fashion model adapts very well to new technological and social developments, is difficult for competitors to imitate, and thus effectively creates value for price-sensitive consumers. Implications & Recommendations: Our findings suggest that a proper combination of strategic choices and innovations in this business model can lead to competitive advantages and remarkable market performance. Indeed, right timing, the use of appropriate technologies, and favourable initial conditions all play crucial roles in the process and make the ultra-fast fashion business model potentially transferable to other industries, while at the same time difficult to imitate by established companies. Its social and economic consequences, future applications, modifications as well as the positive conditions necessary for transferability to other industries should be the subject of further studies. Contribution & Value Added: Our central contribution involves deciphering the complex interplay and fusion of already established rules and new elements during the process of a new business model creation in the fast fashion industry. Shein’s ultra-fast fashion business model offers a new strategic configuration of a business model that is very difficult to imitate and yet extends the competitive order in the industry at the same time. This article provides a framework for analysis of this model and enhances the understanding of the importance of particular business model choices and their connections for a firm’s successful competitive strategy.

Resumo Neste artigo estudamos a produção de fronteiras simbólicas e sociais valendo-nos das coleções de roupas realizadas entre marcas de luxo e de fast fashion. Elas são divulgadas como democratização do luxo, já que supostamente facilitam o acesso a esses tipos de bens. Nossa análise sobre as colaborações entre a fast fashion Riachuelo e as marcas de luxo Versace e Karl Lagerfeld mostra, contudo, que essas colaborações não embaralham esses universos e seus consumidores. Identificamos uma unificação simbólica do mercado de luxo, a consequente expansão transclasse do reconhecimento de elementos estabelecidos como distintivos e o estabelecimento de hierarquias que mantêm as fronteiras sociais entre as classes.

The aim of the study was to analyse the impact of various consumer attributes on the fast fashion consumption pattern. The effect of consumer age, family income and family size on the percentage of monthly income spent on clothing and percentage of monthly clothing consumption spent on fast fashion by consumers in NCR (National Capital Region) of India was studied in this research. Causal research was employed in this study. Correlations among the variables were established using the response surface methodology (Box-Behnken experimental design) to understand whether the impact is significant or not. Control factors, studied at 3 levels of variation, were age, monthly family income and family size. The responses for the experiment were the percentage of monthly income (per person) spent on clothing and the percentage of monthly clothing consumption spent on fast fashion. The study revealed that age and monthly family income have a strong influence on the percentage of monthly income spent on clothing, while family size has a negligible or no effect on the percentage of monthly income spent on clothing. It was also found that age, monthly family income and family size have a strong influence on the percentage of monthly clothing consumption spent on fast fashion. The demand for fast fashion and clothing is rising at a very high rate, which has made it hard for retail brands and apparel manufacturers to meet the consumer expectations. The analysis of consumer behaviour provides the advantage to fashion brands in anticipating and meeting consumer demands in a more efficient manner to create brand loyalty.

Sustainable fashion refers to efforts to minimize the fashion industry’s adverse environmental and social impacts. This entry describes the industry’s entire production chain: from polyester production, cotton growth and wasteful fashion consumption patterns to landfilling, where so many clothes end up. The entry characterizes the drivers behind the industry’s poor record regarding sustainability and employee exploitation, as well as new policies around the world designed to improve the industry’s performance These include the Australian Modern Slavery law, the French law prohibiting the destruction of textile surpluses and the New York Fashion Sustainability and Social Accountability Act.

While the majority of Generation Z consumers claim that ethical and sustainable issues are important to them, the rapid growth of the fast-fashion market shows that such issues are still largely neglected in practice. The paper focuses on Hannah Arendt’s concepts of the banality of evil and the failure to think. A comparative analysis is conducted of the conditions that contributed to the non-thinking of ordinary Germans and their subsequent participation in the Nazi atrocities, and the conditions for the non-thinking of fast-fashion consumers. Aside from gaining a better understanding of the non-thinking of fashion consumers, this paper’s primary purpose is to problematise the phenomenon of fast fashion. The analysis points to the harmful nature of the global capitalist economy, which encourages non-thinking, and to the need for critical thinking and the consequent questioning of the normality of phenomena like fast fashion.

The author talks about the negative impact of the fashion industry that vastly aff ects the environment, being responsible for the water pollution, carbon emissions and great quantities of waste. This article emphasises all the actual problems caused by the development of this industry. It mentions that the identification of the processes that damage the environment the most from the chain of production and activity of the fashion industry, may contribute signifi cantly against climate changes. By supporting this idea, the author says that all the participants in this process have to make great efforts to reorganise the production and the profit of the textile industry, excluding the methods that damage the environment.

El siguiente texto busca generar una postura crítica frente a la aplicabilidad del concepto de moda sostenible en la industria textil colombiana. Lo anterior se analiza desde una mirada holística que permita conocer el manejo y características de esta propuesta en los mercados textiles nacionales e internacionales, de cara al desafío de implementar prácticas sostenibles en toda la cadena de valor de la industria de la moda.

Omnichannel retailing and sustainability are two important challenges for the fast fashion industry. However, the sustainable behavior of fast fashion consumers in an omnichannel environment has not received much attention from researchers. This paper aims to examine the factors that determine consumers’ willingness to participate in fast fashion brands’ used clothes recycling plans in an omnichannel retail environment. In particular, we examine the impact of individual consumer characteristics (environmental attitudes, consumer satisfaction), organizational arrangements constitutive for omnichannel retailing (channel integration), and their interplay (brand identification, impulsive consumption). A conceptual model was developed based on findings from previous research and tested on data that were collected online from Chinese fast fashion consumers. Findings suggest that consumers’ intentions for clothes recycling are mainly determined by individual factors, such as environmental attitudes and consumer satisfaction. Organizational arrangements (perceived channel integration) showed smaller effects. This study contributes to the literature on omnichannel (clothing) retail, as well as on sustainability in the clothing industry, by elucidating individual and organizational determinants of consumers’ recycling intentions for used clothes in an omnichannel environment. It helps retailers to organize used clothes recycling plans in an omnichannel environment and to motivate consumers to participate in them.

Consumers are becoming increasingly aware of the environmental degradation, negative economic consequences and social injustices caused by the unsustainable consumption of clothing products. Overall, therefore, sustainability requires more sustainable production of fashion apparel products as well as more responsible consumption behaviours by individual consumers. To gain a clearer picture of the concepts of mindfulness, sustainable consumption and consumer well-being and their interrelationships, in-depth interviews were conducted with individual consumers. The results of this study indicate a positive relationship between these three concepts as well as an overlap between the concepts of mindfulness and well-being.

This article aims to understand the development of fashion consumerism in the United Kingdom (UK) with the focus: why fast fashion consumerism in the last two decades was very high? This study applied a post-structuralism paradigm, namely the Libidinal Economy concept from Jean-Francois Lyotard and a post-modernism paradigm on the Consumer Society from Jean Baudrillard. The method employed in the article is a case study in the UK in the last two decades. Data were collected from scientific writings, documents, news, and advertisements in media. The results show that fashion consumerism in the UK dated back to the 18th century; it strengthened in the first two decades of the 21st century, driven by libidinal economic activities and facilitated massively by technological advancements in both marketing and trades. The ability of multinational fast fashion companies to utilize the mass media to construct the social status of its consumers and to create “hyper-reality” needed by modern people nowadays seemed to surpass the awareness of British clothing consumers regarding the environmental impacts and global imbalances of the fast fashion industry. In this study, the application of the post- structuralism paradigm clarifies the relationship between technology, mass media, the expansion of capitalism and the consumption of fast fashion in British society, whereas the post-modernism paradigm highlights socio-cultural aspects that encouraged the creation of hyper-reality through fast fashion among the British. These findings contribute to the knowledge about the relationship between technology, media, and multinational fast fashion companies with the development of consumer society in the UK.

A partire da un’analisi della letteratura scientifica sui modelli di maschilità nel filone dei Men’s and Masculinities Studies vengono presentati i risultati di una ricerca qualitativa, condotta attraverso l’analisi di 50 interviste e 2 focus group, sulla vendita al cliente in un’ottica di genere e dal punto di vista delle trasformazioni delle mascolinità. Il saggio di concentra sulle (auto)rappresentazioni di lavoratori e lavoratrici dei negozi delle vie dello shopping di Milano e Londra, nel settore del retail e in particolare nella fast fashion e nella telefonia, caratterizzati dalla presenza di grandi brand di aziende nazionali e multinazionali, e da processi di femminilizzazione dal punto di vista occupazionale, connessi ad un forte radicamento degli stereotipi di genere. I risultati di ricerca mostrano come il lavoro di vendita al cliente venga considerato un “lavoro da donne” e come nella fast fashion venga dato per scontato che i ragazzi commessi siano di orientamento omosessuale proprio perché svolgono questa attività. Quindi, in questo studio viene identificato un modello di mascolinità, osservato in entrambi i contesti di ricerca, che si afferma come fluido, fuori dagli schemi, controcorrente rispetto alle spinte eteronormative e binarie presenti nella società contemporanea, in cui però si intersecano tra loro elementi ambivalenti. Si tratta, infatti, anche di una modalità di espressione di genere che si inserisce coerentemente nei luoghi di consumo e della vendita e in una attività lavorativa che rientra nell’ambito del lavoro emozionale (Hochschild 1983) i cui aspetti fondamentali sono appunto la relazione empatica con la clientela, l’ascolto e la cura degli altri, ma anche la cura di sé, del proprio aspetto, dell’abbigliamento, dell’estetica. Nel settore della telefonia, invece, si rileva da un lato il radicamento degli stereotipi di genere e dall’altro, al contempo, una segmentazione degli stessi: l’attività di vendita è genericamente associata al “femminile”, ma le questioni riguardanti aspetti tecnici e tecnologici vengono considerate da addetti e addette come ambiti “maschili”.

The current consciousness about the environmental impact of fashion request an urgent need for intervention on both the technological production and the processing plants in the textile sector; but these are not the only aspects to be considered. Focusing on an approach based only on the sustainability of materials and processes, and not considering the gears that move the fashion system, would lead to a symptom based solution that does not involve the roots of the problem. The intangible, social and symbolic aspects that invest the fashion sector have significant repercussions on material production and stimulate the phenomenon of fast-fashion. The purpose of this contribution is to individuate a further approach which looks at recent technological advances in the field of sustainability, not only as alternatives to production and processing in the textile sector, but aims to investigate its potential in aesthetic and semantic terms, to establish new correlations between material and immaterial aspects. Specifically, reference will be made to the field of biodesign, which considers the collaboration with living organisms as a design tool that, if applied to the textile sector, will allow energy efficiency savings and to reduce environmental impact, but also generate new ways of interaction, use and customization of clothing.

The present consumer behavior is manipulated by “fast fashion”, where purchasing new, trendy, affordable clothes is preferred over recycling old ones. This changing mannerism has escalated the GHG emissions from the fashion industry. Energy-intensive raw material production, preparation, and processing contribute to considerable emissions. The management of the returned goods from the primary market and further processing through the secondary outlets indulge in reverse logistics. In this paper, efforts are made to minimize the total cost and the carbon emission amount during the process of managing the return articles from the primary market to the reverse distribution center, further processing of the articles at the secondary outlet, and the return of the unsold or excess articles from the secondary outlet. Reverse cross-docking has been implemented in managing the return articles, while environmental concerns over GHG emissions have been addressed by investing in green technology under a strict carbon cap policy. In this research, return articles from the primary and secondary markets, rework of the returned articles, and disposal of the impaired returned articles have been considered. The carbon emission cost at all stages of transportation, rework, or disposal has also been incorporated into this model. A constrained mixed integer linear programming model is proposed and solved considering green investment. A numerical example has been formulated to investigate the effect of green technology on the total cost. The results portray that, though the total cost increases by nearly 2% due to investment in green technology, it ensures a considerable drop of 23% in the carbon emission amount. Also, the result is successful in establishing that reverse cross-docking is a better option than traditional warehousing in terms of minimizing the cost.

In this study, a scheduling problem which is experienced in a thread producer textile company isconsidered.The products must be processed in one of the identical machines. The machine is cleaned before production, and the cleaning time may take longer or shorter depending on the color of the previous job. As it is about fast service, reducing the cleaning times of the machines means both reducing water consumption and improving service times.Considered problem is called as parallelmachine scheduling with sequence dependent setup times inthe literature.Because that producer’s main customers are fast fashion companies, in the service indicators, speed is becoming the most important factor. In the fast fashion industry, the time from design to stores are reduced to three weeks, so completing all jobs in ashort time are becoming very critical and every delayed job may end with stoppage of customers’ production lines or loss of customers.Therefore, in this study, it is aimed to minimize themakespan and the totalnumber of tardyjobs.Due to the Np-hard nature of the problem, it is difficult to find an exact solution to large-sized problems in a reasonable time. Therefore, a simulated annealing algorithm is proposed for the solution of the problem.The proposed algorithm was coded in Visual Basic and presented with an interface suitable for daily use of the company.The schedules obtained with the proposed method are compared with the schedules used in the company and the obtained results were interpreted.

In view of the channel conflict in the process of channel intergration, the conduct research on the omni-channel model of representation enterprises was conducted. Based on case studies and questionnaire survey methods, the fast-fashion brands′ value creation model was analyzed from the strategic model, operation model and profit model. The study found that the channel strategy layout of fast fashion brands is different, the perceived risk of online channel shopping still exists, and there is an inconsistency between online and offline prices and inventory information in terms ofomni-channel integration; cross-border cooperation and joint products make the product more unique. The combination of technology experience and localization promotion strategy can better serve consumer needs; “ordering online, pickup in-store” and “preferential drainage, up-sales” model effectively utilizes the externality of offline and online channels, which can better take the advantages of omni-channels.

The purpose of this paper is to provide rich empirical evidence on circularity solutions adopted by the largest companies in the fast fashion industry. The sustainability reports of six global players were analyzed using a comprehensive circular model of the value chain. This model comprises eleven stages: product design, virgin raw material extraction and processing, textile and material production, manufacturing, auditing and certification, packaging and retail, customer use, post-consumer garment collection, recycling fibers and materials, partnerships, and transparency. The results are reported on five implementation phases: strategies, research and development, implementation at scale, quantitative indicators, and targets. The analysis shows that major players in this sector created a complex system for reducing their environmental impact while imposing strict rules in their upstream supply chain. Downstream, these companies educate their customers on the topic of circularity and promote recycle-or-reuse consumer habits. In addition to offering practical examples of strategy, product, and process design, the present contribution describes several configurations of circular models as implemented by large fashion retailers. The results have significant implications for theory, management, and standard-setting, considering that fast fashion is widely viewed as having a negative impact on the environment.

O ano de 2020 foi marcado pelo cenário da pandemia da Covid-19, um vírus que causou muitas mortes entre a população mundial e transformou o modo de interação e relacionamento social no mundo. A indústria da moda é responsável por uma significativa parcela do consumo mundial, sendo consequentemente afetada por esse contexto. Este estudo teve como objetivo analisar os conteúdos do site e rede social Instagram das empresas Riachuelo (modelo fast fashion de produção) e Flávia Aranha (modelo slow fashion de produção), no período de março a maio de 2020, para compreender quais estratégias foram utilizadas e como as empresas se posicionaram nas mídias digitais durante a pandemia. Os resultados indicaram similaridades em termos de comunicação e algumas diferenças no foco do conteúdo das empresas sobre essa temática. A Riachuelo e a Flávia Aranha, além da criação de conteúdos nas suas mídias online, realizaram ações sociais, publicitárias e a criação de produtos/serviços que se adequavam a esse período.

A la vista de la situación actual del mercado, este trabajo pretende ver hasta qué punto la sostenibilidad es un factor clave en la evolución del sector textil y de la moda. Se ha utilizado un método deductivo, partiendo de premisas generales hasta llegar a los planteamientos más específicos del estudio, centrados en el análisis estadístico de los datos obtenidos mediante una encuesta online dirigida a consumidores del sector. El propósito del estudio empírico, de carácter prospectivo, ha sido conocer mejor el comportamiento de compra del consumidor y ver cómo influyen la responsabilidad y la sostenibilidad de las marcas textiles en sus decisiones. En este sentido, las conclusiones sugieren que los consumidores no consideran como factor decisivo las acciones de Responsabilidad Social Corporativa de las marcas y continúan contribuyendo de forma activa al modelo de la industria textil actual, a pesar de haber comenzado a implementar hábitos sostenibles concretos en su modo de vida. Asimismo, se percibe que los consumidores son conscientes de los efectos negativos del modelo textil actual, pero se ven constantemente influidos a contribuir a mantenerlo.

The fashion industry is the second largest polluter of the environment. The fast fashion segment aims at a fast production and disposal of clothing, slow fashion seeks timeless and durable garments. Both fast and slow fashion stores are using different strategies of communicating their sustainability practices in order to attract consumer attention. The present study aims to compare the customers’ perception regarding sustainability practices of two different stores – one of slow fashion and the other of fast fashion. Both are in Brasilia, the capital of Brazil. The comparative analysis was carried on with a documental analysis of the declared practices and also a survey with customers, in 2018 and 2017, respectively, for slow (118 costumers) and fast fashion stores (400 costumers). Statistical tests were made - Qui-square hypothesis test to identify preferences and proportion test to compare the answers. It was noticed that customers in general do not have knowledge about the sustainability practices adopted by the companies. However, for 78% of the fast fashion and for 91% of the slow fashion customers, the perception of the companies has changed positively after they know about the sustainability practices of the companies. The profile of the respondents was also compared to the general profile of the conscious consumer in Brazil. It was found that regardless the consumer says he/she is conscious, they do not agree to pay more for a greener product, even though they believe that an organization should have sustainable practices. The results suggest that there is still a lot to be done in order to transform sustainability practices into competitive for consumer.

A indústria do varejo de moda é grande responsável pela movimentação da economia e também por produzir muitos poluentes do meio ambiente. Diante disso há a preocupação por parte da indústria e dos consumidores em mudar suas escolhas, buscando se adaptar a modelos sustentáveis, porém com receio do impacto financeiro dessa mudança. Com essa problemática em mente se faz necessário apresentar propostas de adaptabilidade que provenham como solução ambiental, mas também que mantenham a situação financeira do setor positiva. Para isso foi feito um estudo de caso com base em uma ficha de custo de um produto de vestuário para se entender o impacto dessa mudança, que inclui conceito sustentável, proposta inovadora e produto diferenciado. Após feito o estudo, uma análise apresenta as possibilidades tangíveis à indústria que esteja disposta a rever sua relação com o ambiente e mudar o seu curso para garantir que no futuro converse com o consumidor mais informado e responsável ambientalmente. É mostrado em forma de projeção possibilidades para que o mercado de moda se engaje na proposta sustentável sem impactar em rentabilidade, incentivando a implementação de produtos de cadeira circular, com material sustentável, mas mantendo a margem de lucro para a empresa.

Purpose – Consumers are increasingly combining distribution channels, thus displaying so-called omni-channel behavior, both to complete a given purchase and between purchases. The authors make a distinction between omni-channel customers, who make use of distribution services in both channels and omni-channel users, who make partial use of the distribution services of one channel to support purchases in another. This paper aims to identify the omni-channel behavior among the customers of a global fast fashion retailer dealing in a wide range of apparel and clothing accessories. Design/methodology/approach – Using a multinomial logit model, the authors perform a customer segmentation based on observed omni-channel behavior, considering the explanatory roles of demographics, distribution service features and customer service policies across the different retail channels. Findings – The authors observe that the key retail channel features for explaining omni-channel customer behavior are product accessibility, both in store and online; the assurance that goods purchased online will satisfy the customer’s needs and expectations; and the option to return goods found unsatisfactory. Practical implications – The results clearly show that the nature of the visits and purchases made by customers is determined by various components of the companýs customer service policy, which can, therefore, be used to guide the retailer’s segmentation strategy. Originality/value – Future lines of research should explore the economic implications of this customer segmentation. The price perception data emerging from our findings suggest a greater sensitivity to prices in the mono-channel segment, which might be worth exploring in future research. Future research – Future lines of research should explore the economic implications of this customer segmentation. The price perception data emerging from our findings suggest a greater sensitivity to prices in the mono-channel segment which might be worth exploring in future research.