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This study examined the natural dyeing properties of hemp fabrics using a mixed mordant consisting of aluminum potassium sulfate (10 and 20 g/L) and tannic acid (5 and 10 g/L). The natural dye was derived from jackfruit wood (Artocarpus heterophyllus) and then processed into a powder via spray drying. The fabrics were dyed using 10% owf dye, at a pH of 5, temperature of 80 °C, for 50 min, with a liquor ratio (L:R) of 1:30. Prior to dyeing, mordanting was applied to improve dye uptake. The mordanting process compared three distinct heating techniques: infrared heating (IRH), ultrasonic heating (USH), and microwave heating (MWH). The X-ray diffraction results showed that MWH was the only heating technique that maintained the crystallinity index ( CI ) of the fibers. However, it produced slightly lower color strength ( K / S of 1.01 ± 0.01) compared to IRH ( K / S of 1.36 ± 0.04) and USH ( K / S of 1.32 ± 0.04). IRH exhibited the most significant reduction in the CI , followed by USH. The sample treated with IRH had the highest aluminum content (0.88 ± 0.02%), whereas the MWH-treated sample had the lowest (0.75 ± 0.02%), which is consistent with the results concerning CI and K / S . The ratings for color fastness to washing, light, and rubbing were generally favorable. Mordanting enhanced both the color fastness and the color strength of the fabric, but it did not affect the tensile properties of the fabrics. Mordanting and dyeing slightly enhanced the ultraviolet protection efficiency of the fabrics. However, all samples, including the pristine hemp fabric, provided excellent protection against ultraviolet radiation. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Purpose: Replacing conventional mordants by benign mordants, rare earth (RE) salts have been used in the process of natural dyeing with annatto seed extract. The purpose was threefold – first, to increase the dye uptake through these new mordants; second, to have better fastness properties of dyed swatches and third, to have lesser effluent pollution, as the new RE mordants are used in one-tenth quantities only. Design/methodology/approach: Sustainable natural dyeing was attained by using RE salts as mordant in one-tenth quantity, for natural dyeing, replacing the conventional mordants such as alum and ferrous sulphate. Annatto extract has been used as natural dye. Findings: Through the study, it was inferred that the natural dyeing using annatto seed extract gives very good colour depth on the dyed swatches and also shows marked improvement in fastness properties. Research limitations/implications: Research implication is that often it is expected that any new chemical used in the textile processing adds on to the effluent load; however, contrary to that, this study found that the use of RE salt is very beneficial as it is used in smaller quantities, but gives far better dyeing results. Practical implications: RE salts can be used in natural dyeing without causing any harm to the environment and dyers. Social implications: Use of RE salts in natural dyeing is a new concept. It is a very safe technology and can be used without causing any harm to the environment and the dyers. Originality/value: This study is unique as it focuses on the use of RE salts in natural dyeing replacing the conventional mordants, which are used ten times more in quantity. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Inorganic–organic hybrid biomaterials have recently attracted much attention because of their widespread use. Silkworm cocoon filaments resulting from sericulture as prospective nanobiomaterials need to be improved, and their properties need to be used for broader purposes. This study was aimed at investigating methods for siliconization of silkworm cocoon filaments and characterizing their cocoon filament properties in terms of their yarn quality, natural dyeing, and antibacterial properties. Three methods of hybridization processes were used in this experiment, namely, in situ natural dyeing of silk yarns while silk filaments were spined, feed engineering through spraying the mulberry leaves with natural dyes and silica–phosphate–M (M = Cu, Fe, or Al) nano pastes, and a combination of both methods. The resulting cocoon filaments were characterized by their siliconization of filament fibers by using FTIR, XRD, and SEM-EDS methods. The yarn tensile strength, color quality, color fastness properties affected by the siliconization of silk filament fibers, and antibacterial properties were also investigated. Results showed that the combination method produced better siliconization of silk fibers, and, consequently, the better siliconization of silk fibers produced better natural dyeing as well as antibacterial properties of their resulting silk yarns. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Copyright of Environmental & Social Management Journal / Revista de Gestão Social e Ambiental is the property of Environmental & Social Management Journal and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Introduction Natural dyes are a group of dyes with high fastness with plant and animal sources which play effective roles in traditional dyeing. Eco-friendly nature, beautiful and attractive colors, and economic issues have resulted in the significance of using natural dyes, in spite of the production of various chemical dyes. One of the most important problems in using natural dyes instead of harmful chemical dyes is the huelimitation and sometimes the high cost of dyeing plants. Rosa damascene mill residue is a waste material that is produced and disposed of in a large volume during rose gleaning operations, which costs significantly for the rose gleaning industry of Kashan. Furthermore, the surface of textiles with natural fibers, including handwoven carpets, in the presence of moisture and heat, is exposed to the growth and proliferation of bacteria, and this leads to problems in the durability, appearance and hygiene of the goods. In this research, in addition to evaluating the color characteristics and light fastness of wool dyed with aqueous and alcoholic extract of the rose water residue, the comparison of their antibacterial effects on two Grampositive Staphylococcus aureus and Gram-negative Escherichia coli bacteria has also been investigated. Materials and Methods Rosa damascene mill residue, obtained from Kashan damask rose essential water extraction, was used as a dye. In addition, Iranian woolen yarn with a 4.5 metric number and 65 twists per meter were applied. Considering that the extraction of the effective substance in plants depends on the type of solvent used, three different solvents--water, ethanol, and methanol--were used to prepare rose petal extract; the aforementioned fibers were dyed with the extracted dyes using the simultaneous mordant method with the Aluminum and potassium double sulfate. Aqueous and alcoholic extracts were prepared by percolation and return methods in Soxhlet apparatus, respectively. For this purpose, dyeing bath with L: R=1:50 containing natural fibers, 3% oxalic acid, 5% dentate and 30% dye was used. The dyeing processes for both baths continued for 90 minutes in Bain Marie device. Color parameters (a*, b*, L*), color strength (K/S), the reflectance spectrum (R) were performed by spectro-photometric method, and the antibacterial property of each dyed fiber was evaluated with aqueous, ethanolic, and methanolic dye extracts. On the other hand, the lightingfastness of the dyed fibers was measured according to the 2010 ISO 105-B01 standard by the blue standard. To measure the antibacterial property, 0.03 grams of each of fibers dyed with the desired dyes were soaked in 1500 microliters of serum containing Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli bacteria for 24 hours. Then, by dilution method in plates, Nutrient agar was cultured and colonies were counted. Quantification of the active substance of rosa damascene mill residue (cyaniding diglucoside) in the extracts was done using HPLC analysis. Results and Findings The reflective spectro-photometric evaluations of the samples showed that the woolen yarn dyed with the aqueous and alcoholic extracts of the rose petals, obtained from rose extract, had positive a* and b* levels, which indicated the red and yellow undertones of the dyed samples. Among these, the reddest tone belonged to the sample dyed with the methanolic extract of the mentioned dye. The numerical results agree with the visual qualitative evaluations in the optical cabinet. The evaluation of the color strength of wool dyed with aqueous and alcoholic extracts of primary petals and the rose petals residue showed that the methanol extract of the dye could create the highest color strength on the wool fibers, which indicated the high percentage of the dye in this extract. In addition, the comparison of the color strength of the primary petal and the residue of the rose flower showed that the rose flower residue obtained from rose essential water extraction had the same color strength as the primary petal. Therefore, using it as a dye was more economical than the first flower petal. The evaluation of lighting fastness showed that the samples dyed with the ethanolic extract of the mentioned dyes had less paleness and more lighting fastness after light irradiation than the aqueous and methanolic extracts. However, in general, all four samples had acceptable lighting fastness. Antibacterial properties of aqueous, ethanolic and methanolic extracts of rose flower residue were measured by measuring the average diameter of the no-growth halo for two types of bacteria, Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus. The results showed that the alcoholic extracts of rose petals, especially its ethanolic extract, showed more antibacterial power, which indicated the presence of higher amounts of effective phenolic and phenolic compounds in this extract. In addition, the calculation of the inhibition percentage of the growth of bacteria on the dyed fibers showed that although all the extracts used provided good antibacterial properties to the woolen yarn, the wool dyed with the ethanolic extract showed a significant inhibition percentage for both types of bacteria, because of the higher anthocyanin content of this extract. HPLC analysis showed a total number of four different anthocyanins: cyanidin 2-glucoside, anthocyanin delphinidin 3-glucoside, pelargoidin and malvinidin in rose petals, which were responsible for the red color and antibacterial properties of rose petals, which are in good agreement with scientific reports. Conclusion In this article, the comparison of the color characteristics and antibacterial properties of woolen yarn dyed with aqueous and alcoholic extracts of rosehip waste, obtained from rose water, was discussed. Spectro-photometric evaluations of the samples dyed with the waste extracts of the rose flower and the primary petal confirmed the red and yellow tones created. Also, the color strength of these two dyes did not show significant difference. Although anthocyanin dyes generally do not show high fastness, the light fastness of dyed samples with dye extracts was acceptable. The findings of this study suggest the use of the dye extracted from the waste of rose water as a suitable antibacterial dye on natural fibers, which can be effective in preventing and treating infectious diseases caused by Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus bacteria. The reason for this is the presence of significant amounts of cyanidin diglucoside and phenolic compounds, flavonoids and tannins, which were proven by the phytochemical analyses carried out in this research. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Recently, the natural dyeing process has achieved great importance in the textile wet processing industry due to its clean dyeing, eco-friendliness, and nontoxicity in nature. In the above research project, a unique natural dye extracted from dragon fruit was applied to wool fabric using various mordanting agents to encourage the use of natural dyes and lessen the negative environmental effects caused by synthetic dyeing. The color characteristics (K/S), fastness properties, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR), absorption spectra, and thermal and ultraviolet (UV) resistance of the extracted dye and dyed wool samples were tested and characterized. The K/S values of the dyed wool fabrics were between 5.75 and 13.29. The color fastness ratings obtained from the dyed wool fabric were found to be between good and excellent. Hence, the overall results proved that the novel natural dye obtained from dragon fruit can be utilized for dyeing wool material for the production of eco-friendly and sustainable antimicrobial textiles. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This study evaluates the effect of herbal extract, mordant and mordanting process on antibacterial activity, color fastness, and durable and comfort properties of the cotton fabric. In the current research, 100% gray cotton fabric, rind of pomegranate, manjistha, and moduga are used. The selected herbals were aqueous extracted and tested for phytochemical screening to find the presence of active ingredients. The cotton fabric is processed, and herbal extracts were applied with standard methods. The dyed materials were tested for antibacterial activity against S. aureus and E. coli and color fastness, durable, and comfort properties. The rind of pomegranate has high antibacterial property, biomass reduction, and excellent color fastness. All the dyed samples showed useful, sustainable, and comfort features. Furthermore, a garment (salwar cum churidar), designed and developed, was analyzed for wear study by 50 students, and they reported that it has excellent comfort and fit. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this research, natural dyeing studies were conducted using indigo, and dyeability was compared using sodium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, and calcium carbonate as bases. As a reducing agent, sodium hydrosulfite and glucose were compared. For a more environmentally friendly method, 3D-printed thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) materials were dyed with natural indigo using glucose as the reducing agent and calcium hydroxide as the alkali. The dyeability of TPU materials was investigated under various conditions. The color fastness to light, rubbing, and washing of dyed 3D-printed TPU materials were investigated. At a 15 g/l glucose concentration and a 10 g/l calcium hydroxide concentration, the K/S value increased significantly, showing the color of the PB series. The K/S value tended to increase as dyeing temperature, dyeing time, and indigo dye concentration increased. However, the effect of indigo dye concentration was not significant, and there was no significant increase after the dyeing temperature was 90 °C and the dyeing time was 60 min. The color fastness to light was poor, but for washing and rubbing the fastness was good. Therefore, it was confirmed that more environmentally friendly 3D-printed TPU material dyeing is possible by indigo dyeing using glucose by replacing sodium hydrosulfite. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this study, to evaluate color emotions and color preferences of cotton fabric having two different colored portions with contrast tones by dyeing with persimmon and indigo, respectively, six different stimuli were prepared with variations of contrasting tone types and color area ratios and they were subjectively assessed by inviting female college students in fashion and textiles. The factor analysis results showed four different factors including 'Light', 'Gentle', 'Traditional', and 'Dynamic' and they were revealed as effected by contrasting tone types such as 'pale-dull' and 'light-dull' and by color area ratios such as 1:1, 2:1, and 1:2 as well as objective colorimetric combination variables. Precisely the type of 'pale-dull' contributed to stronger feeling of factor 'Light' and 'Gentle' and the ratio of 2:1 evoked more perception of 'Light'. Color preference was more highly rated for 'pale-dull' and as Δ a p ∗ as a colorimetric combination variable was higher. Finally color emotion factor such as 'Light' and 'Traditional' and color preference were quantitatively described by modeling each of them with some of objective colorimetric combination variables. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The goal of this study is to present an environmentally benign route for cotton fabric and investigate the effect of different pretreatments in natural dyeing. In this context, conventional alkaline scouring, conventional hydrogen peroxide bleaching, low-temperature one-step biopreparation processes, namely enzymatic scouring (alkaline pectinase and alkaline pectinase-neutral cellulase combination) at 55 °C and enzyme-bleaching agent (hydrogen peroxide/sodium percarbonate/sodium perborate)-activator agent (TAED) combinations at 65 °C were applied to 100% cotton knitted fabric. The use of agricultural waste and eco-friendly mordants was preferred in natural dyeing. For this purpose, pretreated fabrics were dyed with the outer green shell of almond fruit extracts and a low amount of 0.4 g/L metal mordants (alum and iron(II) sulfate) in accordance with the simultaneous mordanting method. The dyeing properties of bio- and conventionally prepared cotton fabrics were examined in terms of colorimetric data (K/S, CIELa*b*C*h°) and wash fastness compared with water absorbency, whiteness, weight loss, pectin removal, and type of mordant. Excellent wash fastness values were achieved regardless of the type of pretreatment. Low-temperature one-step biopreparation can be a good substitute for conventional scouring and bleaching processes. Since different results can be achieved, it is essential to determine and evaluate all bioprocess conditions depending on the end-use characteristics of the textile (e.g. whether it will be white or dyed/printed, its color and lightness/darkness) at the laboratory and industrial scale applications. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Due to the increasing pressure on environmentally friendly approaches and sustainable production processes, the textile dyeing industry has focused on natural colorants. Thus, the use of bio-mordants, which are biological materials, has become widespread as an alternative to metal salts, most of which are non-ecological, used in the application processes of natural colorants. In natural dyeing, dyers want to use mordant substances in the dyeing processes in order to both expand the color spectrum and improve the fastness properties. Conventional metal salts used in natural dyeing are made up of metallic ions, which, when released into the environment as wastewater effluent at the end of the dyeing process, cause major damage to the ecosystem. Many researchers have thought about using mordants derived from natural sources to address the environmental problem. This article is a review of the investigation of natural mordants used instead of metallic mordants in the process of coloring various textile materials with natural dyestuff sources. It has been determined that many substances, most of them herbal materials, are used as mordants. In this review, mordants, except for conventional metal salts, are examined under three main groups for a better understanding. These groups are as follows: (i) natural or bio-mordants, (ii) oil mordants, and (iii) new-generation and non-vegetable-based mordants. Here, researchers will find an overview of the most recent developments in green mordants as well as application techniques for a variety of mordants. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Mastering a colour—as such, its 'domestication'—involves a weft of technological and symbolic relationships encompassed in the human ability to reproduce a visible colour using the techniques of textile dyeing. The Regimento dos panos or Regimento dos trapeiros ('regulation of fabrics' or 'regulation of drapers'), published in 1573 and expanded in 1690, is a document made up of 107 chapters aiming to standardise the various stages of the production chain of woollen goods in Portugal. In the sections relating to the finishing of fabrics, the regulation carefully details the dyeing of the colour black. The main aim of this text is to discuss the four recipes presented in that document. The system presupposed a phase exogenous to the rules, since the fabrics had to be previously dyed blue ('celestial blues') by means of successive immersions of the cloth in a vat with indigo. The dyeing itself was achieved by mixing mordants and auxiliaries (alum, tartar, iron sulphate, and tannins) with a red dye (madder). The main conclusion is that the formulae presented do not constitute, in their general principles, a characteristic Portuguese methodology. In addition, the article includes an inventory of the raw materials used for dyeing in the Early Modern Age, produced, through a qualitative method, through cross-reference with other manuscript and printed sources, as well as an interpretation of their social and economic importance, and a systematisation of the types of Portuguese wools. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Introduction: Butterfly pea flower Clitoria ternatea L. belongs to family Fabaceae. The plant has many applications in various industries. The most important usage is in medicine and as a food dye. In Europe, it is almost unknown as a textile dye, unlike in Asian countries. Objective: The aim of the study was to assess the dyeing properties of textile materials made from protein fibres (sheep wool and natural silk) by water extract of Butterfly pea. Methods: Knitted fabric made from sheep wool and silk fabric were selected for testing. The colors of both textile materials using six dyeing methods were compared. Results: The colour palettes obtained from protein fibres - wool knitted fabric and silk fabric are totally different. The colours of wool knitted fabrics are warm beige, shades of olive, heather and yellow tones. The colours of silk fabric are shades of heather and lavender. Conclusions: The dyestuff obtained from Clitoria ternatea L. flowers is suitable for dyeing protein fibres. Naturally dyed fabrics and knitted fabrics made of protein fibres increase the attractiveness of products made of these materials. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

There are on-going investigations on the utilization of pineapple leaf fibre (PALF) as a cheap, safe, and eco-friendly natural fibre. The present work aimed to improve PALF preparation using ultrasonication, investigate the adsorption kinetic and thermodynamic aspects of PALF dyed with berberine dye, and to assess their associated molecular interactions. It was found that concomitant PALF exposure to NaOH solution (5% w/v) plus ultrasonication for 20 min successfully removed non-cellulosic substances from the fibre surface in a very much shorter time compared with the traditional non-ultrasound assisted method (24 h). An adsorption isotherm study of dyeing, the treated fibre with the natural yellow dye berberine revealed a strong adsorption dependence on the pH of the berberine solution with optimal uptake occurring at pH 9–10. A deeper assessment of the mode of dye binding was undertaken by DFT − based calculations on a model cellulose unit and berberine. It revealed that the interaction between berberine and cellulose (PALF) at pH 9.00 was likely to be substantially stronger than at lower pH. From the adsorption kinetic results, a higher affinity and more dye uptake were observed before equilibrium was reached. The adsorption isotherm data could be represented by the Langmuir isotherm (R2 > 0.99). The enthalpy change (ΔH°) and entropy change (ΔS°) values of dyeing were found to be −17.0 kJ mol−1 and −19.4 J mol−1 K−1 respectively, which pointed to the dye adsorption being an exothermic process. The negative standard affinity (Δµo) values at the different temperatures of 30, 60, and 80 °C were −11.2, −10.6, and −10.2 kJ mol−1, respectively. It affirmed the dye adsorption process as a spontaneous one. Higher temperatures resulted in a lower affinity and reduced dye uptake compatible with the process being exothermic. Berberine is a potentially useful natural dye for PALF without the need for additives. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Copyright of Journal of Academic Social Resources is the property of Journal of Academic Social Resources and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

The research reported in this paper concerns the examination of the ability to dye cotton textiles with plant-derived colorants in the presence of various natural additives. For this purpose, cotton textile samples were dyed with commercially available plant-derived dyes, which are usually used for food application, using a cold dyeing process in acidic conditions. The natural origin additives which were applied during the dyeing process were cosmetic grade and low molecular weight chitosan, nettle extract and shellac in an ethanol solution. The dyed fabrics were analyzed using FTIR spectroscopy, and the mechanical properties were tested to study the influence of colorants and additives on cotton textile properties or the dyeing process. Furthermore, the color stability under the influence of UVC irradiation was studied, using a colorimeter. The obtained results indicated that applied plant-derived colorants may effectively dye natural fabrics, such as cotton. The application of natural additives had a beneficial influence on cotton textile properties and the dyeing process. The pretreatment of cotton with chitosan, nettle extract or shellac improves the color stability following UVC irradiation of the material. Moreover, those additives can influence the mechanical properties of cotton textiles. Further research, however, is required to develop the most favorable dyeing conditions in each case. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The textile industry stands as a prominent contributor to global environmental pollution, primarily attributable to its extensive reliance on synthetic dyes, hazardous components, and solvents throughout the textile dyeing and treatment processes. Consequently, the pursuit of sustainable textile solutions becomes imperative, aimed at replacing these environmentally unfriendly constituents with biobased and bioactive pigments, antibacterial agents, and, notably, natural solvents. Achieving this goal is a formidable yet indispensable challenge. In this study, the dyeing ability of the crude gel prodigiosin, produced by non-pathogenic bacteria Serratia plymuthica, was investigated on various multifiber fabrics at different conditions (temperature and pH) and by using salts and alternative mordants (the conventional Ferrous Sulphate (FeSO4) and a new bio-mordant, L-Cysteine (L-Cys)). Additionally, a novel gel-based Choline chloride (ChCl)/Lactic acid (LA) (1:2) deep eutectic solvent (DES) dyeing medium was studied to replace the organic solvents. Nylon fabrics dyed with 3.0% over the weight of the fiber (owf) L-Cys at pH = 8.3 had improved color fastness to washing, while the gel-based ChCl/LA (1:2) DES dyebath provided a better color fastness to light. Moreover, nylon fabrics under these conditions exhibited remarkable antimicrobial activity against Staphylococcus aureus (S. aureus) and Pseudomonas aeruginosa (P. aeruginosa). In conclusion, the utilization of the crude gel-based prodigiosin pigment demonstrates a distinct advantage in dyeing textile materials, aligning with the growing consumer demand for more eco-friendly and sustainable products. Additionally, the application of the natural reducing agent L-Cys, previously untested as a bio-mordant, in conjunction with the use of gel-based DES as a dyeing medium, has showcased improved colorimetric and antibacterial properties when applied to nylon that is dyed with the crude gel prodigiosin pigment. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The world in which we live is changing at a much faster and more uncontrolled rate. This situation brings with it both negative and positive changes. The textile industry is also part of this rapid change. The growth of the world's population and the alterations in consumer habits that this change has brought with it also affect the textile industry. In particular, polluting dyehouses and the synthetic dyes used in them are harming the world. This situation is unsustainable. For this reason, the use of natural dyes instead of synthetic dyes in the coloring of textile products is increasing rapidly. In this study, a blend of 80% cotton and 20% wool was dyed with cinnamon, and its fastness and mechanical performance were tested. In addition, the dyeing results were analyzed using a spectral method, FTIR, and SEM. In this study, natural fiber blends with two different chemical structures were dyed with cinnamon in one bath. The fastness values obtained as a result of the dyeing process were very good. The grey scale value of saliva fastness determined through evaluation was 5. The observed strength increase of approximately 24% in the yarn after dyeing was also remarkable. In conclusion, environmentally friendly dyeing was carried out in this study, and a contribution was made to a sustainable world. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Introduction: Indian madder (Rubia cordifolia L.), is an important natural dyeing plant with long history. Rubia belongs to the family Rubiaceae. It is one of the oldest dyeing plant with a source of beautiful and permanent shades of red. The compounds found in the plant’s roots are an excellent natural dye for dyeing protein fibres. The ingredients contained in the root of the plant have numerous health-promoting effects on the human body, both internal and external. In this study water extract from the plant roots was tested to obtain different colours on protein fibres. Objective: The aim of the study was to assess the dyeing properties of East Frisian sheep wool by water extract of R. cordifolia roots. Methods: In this research wool from the East Frisian sheep breed were selected and compared the colours obtained on this wool using six dyeing methods. Results: The results indicate that the type of mordants used affects the intensity and colour of the wool after dyeing. Wool samples dyed without any treatments and with various mordants show different intensity of colour in the red colour range (cinnabar red, brick red, raspberry, tomato red, Tuscan red). Conclusions: Indian Madder R. cordifolia plant is an efficient raw material that gives intense colours on wool in range of red. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In recent years, 360° video cameras have become increasingly accessible and are now being used as valuable research tools across a range of disciplines. Their wide and flexible field of vision can provide immersive and/or alternative perspectives compared to standard video. This paper will present emerging findings from using a 360° video camera to capture natural dye craft practice from an auto-ethnographic perspective and as an observer of other dyers' practice during fieldwork visits. The 360° video data forms part of my doctoral study, in which I explore the embodied interactions between people, plants and materials that connect practitioners to their surroundings, linking them to other species and ecologies. The varied nature of the actions and processes that form the craft practice (e.g. foraging, tending, harvesting, mordanting, dyeing), and the different places and spaces in which these actions occur, presented a practical and observational challenge when trying to record the practice in a video format. Using a 360° camera proved to be a flexible, data-rich and engaging method for recording the craft. The ability to 'move' around and explore different perspectives from within the video after it was recorded was especially valuable, allowing a shift in the focus of the recording and presenting the opportunity to actively centre or decentre plants, people and materials. In this paper, I will reflect on my experiences recording and working with 360° video data and discuss some of the limitations and possible benefits of using this equipment in a craft research setting. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The research aimed to dye silk satin textiles with a plant-derived colorant in the presence of additives of natural origins, such as chitosan and shellac, to investigate whether they can dye silk textiles with satisfactory results. In this study, a series of mechanical properties (Young modulus, elongation at break, and tensile strength), and colorfastness following exposure to UVC irradiation and 6 months of storage of dyed silk textiles samples were tested. Colorimetric measurements and scanning electron microscopy (SEM) images were performed and FTIR spectra were registered. Results indicated that the plant-derived colorant used in this research had the potential to dye silk satin textiles with satisfactory results. Colorant with the addition of chitosan and shellac dyed silk textiles more intensely, shellac covering ensured their color stability following UVC irradiation and during storage while the addition of chitosan did not particularly affect the color stability under the influence of UVC irradiation. However, pre-treatment with low molecular weight chitosan improves colorfastness during storage. Both additives influenced the mechanical properties of dyed silk textiles. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The demand for natural dyes for imparting sustainable dyeing effects to textiles is increasing. Metal mordants generate an unstainable impact in the natural dyeing of textiles. In order to avoid the toxic effect due to the use of metal mordants, the present work uses enzyme for sustainable natural dyeing of wool. The current study is aimed at preparing multifunctional wool fabric using natural dye green tea (Camellia sinensis). Laccase (an enzyme) was used to polymerise the phenolic compounds of Camellia sinensisin situ on wool. The in situ colouration of wool fabric was performed at various varying dyeing conditions (temperature, time, and concentrations) using laccase. Colouration properties (colour values and strength) were examined to estimate the appearance of dyed fabrics. The evaluation of dyed fabrics for functional properties such as antibacterial, antioxidant, and UV protection was done. The efficient functional properties viz, antibacterial activity (> 75%), antioxidant property (> 90%), and excellent UV protection, were obtained. FTIR analysis of separately prepared polymeric dye and the dyed fabric was also done to confirm the laccase-assisted polymerisation. Thus, a novel approach of enzymatic functional natural dyeing of wool was explored. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The purpose of this study is to propose a fully sustainable dyeing process for nylon 6. In order to achieve this goal, Rhubarb flower parts were used to produce a brown hue on nylon 6 fabric. The effects of dyeing parameters such as dyeing time, temperature, dyebath pH, M:L, salt addition, dispersing agent, and dye concentration on color strength were investigated. Using 100%owf dye in an acidic medium at boil and the material to liquor ratio of 1:30 for 75 min was determined to be the optimal condition for dyeing nylon 6 with rhubarb flower. In order to achieve acceptable color fastness, four natural mordants were applied, including walnut husks, pistachio hulls, pine cones, and green coffee. Colorimetric measurements revealed that mordanting did not affect the hue of the color compared to the non-mordant sample. In addition, diverse natural mordants produced the same color (i.e., brown) with varying color strengths, of which 10%owf walnut husk generated the strongest color. Bio-mordanted samples were also found to have excellent color fastness, thereby providing an effective substitute for metal mordants. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Copyright of Anadolu University Journal of Art & Design / Sanat & Tasarım is the property of Anadolu University and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Purpose: The purpose of this study is simultaneous dyeing and mordanting of wool yarns with extracted cochineal dye and aluminum sulfate to the reduction of consuming energy, water and time. Design/methodology/approach: The dyeing process was optimized using the response surface methodology (RSM) approach. pH, dyeing duration and the presence of additives were chosen as variables and the color strength of samples as a response. The color characteristics and fastness attributes of samples dyed in the best condition were evaluated and compared to pre-mordant dyeing outcomes on wool yarns. Findings: The best conditions for deep dyeing wool with cochineal dye were as follows: pH 2.5, time 110 min and the ratio of aluminum: additives 1:0 at 100 °C. Color strength of dyed wool yarns by one-bath and pre-mordant dyeing methods were approximately the same. Wool yarns can dye to the on-bath dyeing method such that the dyed samples have similar color strength and fastness properties to pre-mordant dyeing. Social implications: Wool dyeing processes that use one-bath dyeing consume less water and produce fewer effluents. As a result, this strategy conserves water and energy for a higher quality of life. The findings of this study, in general, aid environmental protection. Originality/value: A novel one-bath process for dyeing wool with cochineal dye at heavy depths is introduced. RSM was used to optimize the procedure and determine effective parameters on the color strength of dyed wools. Using extracted cochineal dye and aluminum sulfate in a simultaneous dyeing technique, good color fastness qualities on wool fibers were achieved. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The textile industry is one of the most complex sectors, in terms of the materials and chemical processes used from petroleum and the environmental degradation during its production and disposal. It is therefore a sector looking for new possibilities and for more sustainable materials and applications. One option is to use natural dyes, as they are considered biodegradable, do not pollute the environment, and have potential use for many sectors, including the fashion industry. In this study, Alanya silk was dyed by a natural dyeing method with crocus sativus, Helichrysum arenarium, and Glycyrrhiza glabra L., plants that grow in and around the Alanya region. Quercus aegilops L. grown in the region was preferred as mordant, a natural binder, and is one of the plants with the highest tannin content, and it was used with a more environmentally friendly and sustainable approach to increase the binding in natural dyeing instead of chemical mordants. The aim is to provide an environmental and scientific contribution to the dyeing producers in this region. According to the MAUT (Multi-Attribute Utility Theory) method, the best dyes in terms of fastness and color efficiency were determined as the dyes made with the Glycyrrhiza glabra L. plant. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Copyright of Yedi is the property of YEDI (Dokuz Eylul Universitesi Guzel Sanatlar Fakultesi Yayini) and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Copyright of Journal of Natural Fibers is the property of Taylor & Francis Ltd and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Copyright of Journal of Natural Fibers is the property of Taylor & Francis Ltd and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Keywords: Natural dyeing; organic cotton; HPLC-DAD; fastness; yarrow; coloring compound; ; ; ; ; EN Natural dyeing organic cotton HPLC-DAD fastness yarrow coloring compound ZH 7374 7381 8 11/21/22 20221220 NES 221220 Introduction Natural dye sources have been used for coloring since prehistoric times. Keampferol-O-glucoside, axillarin, luteolin-7- glucoside, patulitrin, gallic acid and its derivatives of gallic acid, ellagic acid and its derivatives have been determined in the dyed fabrics. Gallic acid, gallic acid derivatives ellagic acid, and ellagic acid derivatives can help for binding to cotton fibers of flavones flavonoids and anthraquinones strongly. [Extracted from the article]

To investigate the UV-protection property of sumac bark dye, the UPF values of the wool fabrics with and without dyeing and the dyed wool fabrics with mordants were compared. Effect of dye bath pH Figure 5 shows the effect of the pH value on the K/S values of wool fabrics dyed with sumac bark extract. In summary, wool fabrics can be successfully dyed with a sumac bark extract dye solution with or without metal mordanting and can be used in the development of UV protective fabrics. Keywords: Sumac bark; tannins; natural dyeing; wool; mordanting; uv protective properties EN Sumac bark tannins natural dyeing wool mordanting uv protective properties 7265 7274 10 11/17/22 20221215 NES 221215 Introduction Since some synthetic dyes are associated with environmental pollution and are harmful to people's health, more attention is being paid to environmental protection, sustainable development, and natural lifestyle. [Extracted from the article]

Copyright of Journal of Natural Fibers is the property of Taylor & Francis Ltd and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Copyright of Journal of Natural Fibers is the property of Taylor & Francis Ltd and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

The ability to add value to waste materials from industrial operations has come to the attention of the wood processing industry, with reports, for example, of extracts from the bark tree conveying colour and UV protection to textile fibres. The objective of the present work was to expand our developments in this arena by using Copaifera langsdorffii Desf. bark extract as a natural dye for textile dyeing. A complete 2³-statistical experimental design and the central point was elaborated. The results showed that the optimal dyeing conditions were 98 °C, for 60 min, using undiluted bark extract. The dyed fabric was analysed by a spectrophotometer using the CIELAB system for evaluation of the colour strength. The results showed a K/S value of 5.78, and the dyed fabric had good colour fastness to rubbing and washing. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Juglans regia barks contain a diversity of phenolic compounds. Two of the most important groups of phenolic compounds are tannins, and flavonoids. These latter, possess different antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antibacterial properties. This paper explores the usefulness of dyeing cellulosic fabrics, namely cotton, with Juglans regia barks residues extract. The dyeing process proposed was assisted by microwave energy. The impact of the main dyeing conditions (percentage of cationizing agent, pH, dyeing duration, and microwave power) on the color strength (K/S) and the L*, a*, b*, C*, and h* coordinates were studied. Optimization experiments were carried out using a definitive screening type plan (MINITAB 19). It was found that the best conditions to achieve the dyeing of cellulosic fabrics were: a pH of 6.23; a percentage of cationizing agent of 6.5%; a microwave power of 690 W, and a dyeing duration of 4.5 min. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The Covid-19 epidemic has affected all aspect of daily life, from health and education, to even the way we shop. In the light of the epidemic, one decision has been to require surgical face masks in all public areas, including hospitals, schools, shopping centers and even in the street. Most consumers have chosen to wear colored surgical face masks to match their clothes. However, these colored surgical face masks have been dyed using synthetic dyestuff. This dyestuff contains toxic mutagenic, allergic and carcinogenic substances. This study aims to dye surgical facemask using natural colorants to investigate color fastness to perspiration, changes of color for each dyeing process (CIELAB) and the antibacterial activity of surgical face masks dyed using coffee grounds. During the dyeing process, three different types of mordant were used. The control sample was dyed using coffee grounds, without the use of mordant. Results found that coffee grounds can serve as a potential source of natural dye for coloring textile materials. Nonwoven samples showed good levels of fastness and antibacterial activity. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Copyright of Yedi is the property of YEDI (Dokuz Eylul Universitesi Guzel Sanatlar Fakultesi Yayini) and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Copyright of Journal of Natural Fibers is the property of Taylor & Francis Ltd and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

While the coloring of textiles was done with natural dyes in history, today it has been completely replaced by chemical dyes and our cultural values have begun to be abandoned. For this reason, various studies are carried out in order to revitalize natural dyeing and to increase its preference. Turkey's flora is rich in terms of plant diversity, thus it makes it easier to facilitate studies related to natural dyeing. We can count the olive tree that has an important place in this diversity and it grows in many regions of our country. In this research, the usability of the natural dye obtained from the leaves of the olive tree, which is very widespread in the world, in cotton fabrics woven with handmade yarns was investigated. In this study, Eflani fabric, woven from 100% cotton yarn with olive leaves, was dyed with a total of 3 different mordant materials of 5 different concentrations. The light and wash fastnesses of the dyed samples were made and the color differences and color efficiencies were calculated and compared using the CIE L * a * b color space system. Grey Relational Analysis (GRA) Method was used for the optimization of dyeing parameters. GRA, which is one of the multi-criteria decision making methods, is an effective method that can be used in situations where there are more or less information and multiple criteria and decision making are complex. There are a total of 9 criteria to decide on the best dyeing together with the fading and staining process obtained from washing damage and with the fading value obtained from lightfastness and color yield. Thanks to the GRA method applied, the evaluation made according to 9 criteria gives us the optimum result. In this experimental study, the effects of 3 different mordant substances and mixtures used in dyeing cotton fabric with olive leaves on color difference and color efficiency were investigated, and it showed that the dyeing with citric acid mordant and using 10% mordant, which is the highest concentration, gave the best fastness values. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This study was conducted to develop an effective mordanting method for black color expression of silk and cotton fabrics using the neutral extract (NE) of Pinus radiata bark and various iron mordants. Also, mordanting characteristics of iron salts in equimolar concentrations were evaluated. The mordanting was carried out in methods of pre-, post-, and pre- and then post-mordanting in one process with ferrous sulfate (FeSO4), ferrous chloride (FeCl2), ferrous acetate (Fe(CO2CH3)2), ferrous lactate (Fe-lac, Fe(CH3CH(OH)CO2)2, ferric sulfate (Fe2(SO4)3), and ferric chloride (FeCl3). The mordant concentration was 1 mM o.w.f. (on the weight of fabric); 0.5 mM for Fe2(SO4)3. The colors of mordanted silk fabrics ranged from dark brown to black and that of mordanted cotton fabric were in the range of light grayish-brown to gray. Using ferrous ion (Fe2+) and post-mordanting methods led to the expression of darker colors and the divalent and trivalent cations (Fe ions) were found to influence dark color expression. The color of silk fabric in the presence of the combination of Fe2(SO4)3 pre- and Fe-lac post-mordanting (PSPL) was closest to the silk fabric dyed with synthetic black dye. Based on the colorfastness assessment, an increase in the light fastness of PSPL silk fabric was observed along with a decrease in the rubbing fastness compared to the non-mordanted silk. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The dyeing industry is considered one of the most polluting industries. Thus, several researchers have focused on studying the possibilities of natural textile dyeing. The objective of this paper was to optimize the microwave extraction process for Juglans regia bark residues in order to dye acrylic fabrics. Hence, at first, the following extraction conditions were studied: microwave power, pH, extraction duration and concentration of dry mass. Flavonoid and tannin content was measured each time. Moreover, the obtained extracts were used for dyeing acrylic fibers with microwave assistance, and the corresponding color yield (K/S) was measured. Then, the microwave extraction process already developed was optimized; a response surface design was established using Minitab 19 software. The optimal extraction conditions were found to be: microwave power = 850, pH = 3 and extraction time = 4 min. Finally, dyed and undyed acrylic were characterized by infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy in order to distinguish the effect of this natural dye on the external layer of the acrylic fiber. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This article examines the life and craft practices of dyer Dede Styles. Styles's knowledge of place, advocacy for her community, and deep life of care add important context to the history of environmental defense and struggles in the Swannanoa region of Appalachia. This article is the result of a series of oral history interviews conducted in 2020-21 and is an effort to represent Styles in her own words and in the context of scholarship on the complex history of crafts in the region. A member of the Southern Highland Craft Guild like her grandmother, Styles demonstrates and sells through the guild, continuing the complex and dynamic tradition of hybridized and ever-evolving regional craft in Appalachia. A lifelong resident of Lytle Cove, Styles is also a fierce advocate for her community and bioregion, and this article demonstrates how her craft practice is both a vehicle for and expression of that relationship and advocacy. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Copyright of Journal of Silk is the property of Zhejiang Sci-Tech University Magazines and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Copyright of Journal of Natural Fibers is the property of Taylor & Francis Ltd and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Copyright of Journal of Natural Fibers is the property of Taylor & Francis Ltd and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Colour knowledge of Nanjing Brocade has not been systematically and precisely documented due to many difficulties. This paper presents a comprehensive research on literature, artifacts and expert experience to demonstrate the colour range of Nanjing brocade from the conceptual and visual perspectives. By text mining, the commonly used colours of Nanjing brocade have been collected. Then, a combined research of chemical experiments of natural dyes in textile fragments and traditional dyeing experiments finds out the specific materials used in the ancient China and what kind of colours are dyed by these materials. Finally, a perceptual evaluation by experts helped match the colour samples to terms and a colour specification in line with Chinese aesthetics has been developed. With internationally accepted LCh value, the specification will facilitate colour identification and application for researchers, producers, and designers. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Natural dyeing is an element of intangible cultural heritage which is gaining new relevance today. Heritage-making as a set of purposeful activities has become an object of interest for researchers relatively recently, and this study is reflective of that. The paper aims to focus on natural dyeing as a component of cultural heritage, its documentation process, and how written texts have influenced the living tradition of natural dyeing. One of the sources for the study was ethnographic material, which provides insight into the little researched tradition of natural dyeing. To understand how the tradition was described and explained, Latvian press publications on natural dyeing were evaluated by applying qualitative and quantitative research methods. In order to study the situation today, a survey was conducted in 2016 and 2017 among dyeing workshop participants in different parts of Latvia. The results of the study indicate that the use of written sources plays an important role in practicing natural dyeing. With various activities organized by professional and amateur ethnographers, artists, handicraft teachers, etc., as well as its coverage in the press, natural dyeing has preserved its relevance. Written texts have documented the activities in the field of natural dyeing and encouraged further development of the tradition. Moreover, various sources have been used to preserve and develop dyeing skills, through both direct observation/oral tradition and written/visual materials. In addition, one's personal experience as a significant part of the construction of identity was relevant in the past and still is today. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A new source of natural dyes, which possessed antibacterial and UV protection properties, was proposed. Natural dyes were extracted from Fuji apple peel. The extract contained two anthocyanins and five quercetin glycosides. Silk and cotton fabrics were dyed using the extract with and without six types of mordants: Mg2+, Ca2+, Al3+, Ti4+, Fe3+, and Cu2+. The properties of the dyed fabrics were investigated by various means. The K/S values were used to show relative color strength of the dyed fabrics and the CIELAB color system was used to show the color hue of the dyed fabrics. The crystallinity of the silk was lower than that of the cotton. The silk was dyed deeper than the cotton regardless of the dyeing conditions, including dyeing temperature, dyeing period, and solution pH. This result comes from the existence of carboxyl and amino groups and low crystallinity of silk fibers. Fabrics with various colors, including pink, green, brown, and gray, were obtained by mordant dyeing. The dyed fabrics had splendid performance; that is, antibacterial and UV shielding properties. Color fastness to washing (color change) was comparably low but was enhanced with Ti4+ and Fe3+ mordants. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Copyright of Yedi is the property of YEDI (Dokuz Eylul Universitesi Guzel Sanatlar Fakultesi Yayini) and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Textile grade dye from agro-residue, groundnut testa was produced by aqueous extraction. The extracted dye was used for the dyeing of cotton in the presence of alum, ferrous sulfate, and myrobalan. The fastness and functional properties of the dyed fabrics were studied. The results showed that the color fixation of groundnut testa dye on cotton is good, without the aid of mordants; however, the dye produced deeper shades in the presence of mordants. Irrespective of the mordants used, the dyed fabric showed excellent microbial resistance against gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria and ultraviolet protection. Lab to bulk correlation studies of groundnut testa dye was conducted with knitted cotton fabric so that the textile dyeing industry can benefit from this agro- residue natural resource. Color strength (K/S) of the bulk dyed sample is higher than the lab dip with the color difference (dE) found to be higher than the industrial shade approving limit of 1.0. The garment-dyed using tie and dye method exhibited good fastness properties. The printing with the dye extract was also attempted and it showed good printability on cotton. Thus, dyeing and printing using agro-residue of groundnut testa is a source of sustainable and cleaner production of natural dye for the medium and small-scale industries. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]