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A prototype OpenMetBuoy (OMB) was deployed alongside a commercial buoy in the central Arctic Ocean, north of the Laptev Sea, where there are historically no wave observations available. The inter-buoy comparison showed that the OMB measured wave heights and periods accurately, so the buoy data were used to study the predictability of a wave–ice model. The first event we studied was when both buoys observed a sudden decrease in significant wave heights Hm0, which was caused by the change of wind directions from along the ice edge to off-ice wind. The Arctic Ocean Wave Analysis and Forecast wave–ice model product (ARC MFC) underestimated the Hm0 on the account of the fetch being constrained by the inaccurate model representation of an ice tongue. The second case was an on-ice wave event as new ice formed. In this instance, the ARC MFC wave–ice model product largely underestimated the downwind buoy Hm0. Model sea-ice conditions were examined by comparing the ARC MFC sea-ice forcing with the neXtSIM sea-ice model product, and our analysis revealed the ARC MFC did not resolve thin ice thickness distribution for ice types like young and grey ice, typically less than 30 cm. The ARC MFC model’s wave dissipation rate has a sea-ice thickness dependence and overestimated wave dissipation in thin ice cover; sea-ice forcing that can resolve the thin thickness distribution is needed to improve the predictability. This study provides an observational insight into better predictions of waves in marginal ice zones when new ice forms. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Solitons and breathers are nonlinear modes that exist in a wide range of physical systems. They are fundamental solutions of a number of nonlinear wave evolution equations, including the unidirectional nonlinear Schro¨ dinger equation (NLSE). We report the observation of slanted solitons and breathers propagating at an angle with respect to the direction of propagation of the wave field. As the coherence is diagonal, the scale in the crest direction becomes finite; consequently, beam dynamics form. Spatiotemporal measurements of the water surface elevation are obtained by stereo-reconstructing the positions of the floating markers placed on a regular lattice and recorded with two synchronized high-speed cameras. Experimental results, based on the predictions obtained from the (2D + 1) hyperbolic NLSE equation, are in excellent agreement with the theory. Our study proves the existence of such unique and coherent wave packets and has serious implications for practical applications in optical sciences and physical oceanography. Moreover, unstable wave fields in this geometry may explain the formation of directional large-amplitude rogue waves with a finite crest length within a wide range of nonlinear dispersive media, such as Bose-Einstein condensates, solids, plasma, hydrodynamics, and optics. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Internal solitary waves in a system of two fluids, silicone oil and water, bounded above by a free surface are studied both experimentally and theoretically. By adjusting an extra volume of silicone oil released from a reservoir, a wide range of amplitude waves are generated in a wave tank. Wave profiles as well as wave speeds are measured using multiple wave probes and are then compared with both the weakly nonlinear Korteweg-de Vries (KdV) models and the strongly nonlinear Miyata-Choi-Camassa (MCC) models. As the density difference between the two fluids in the experiment is relatively small (approximately 14 %), but non-negligible, special attention is paid to the effect of the boundary condition at the top surface. The nonlinear models valid for rigid-lid (RL) and free-surface (FS) boundary conditions are considered separately. It is found that the solitary wave of the FS model for a given amplitude is consistently narrower than that of the RL model and it propagates at a slightly lower speed. Due to strong nonlinearity in the internal-wave motion, the weakly nonlinear KdV models fail to describe the measured internal solitary wave profiles of intermediate and large wave amplitudes. The strongly nonlinear MCC-FS model agrees better with the measurements than the MCC-RL model, which indicates that the free-surface boundary condition at the top surface is crucial in describing the internal solitary waves in the experiment correctly. Leaving the top surface free in the experiment allows us to observe small and relatively short wave packets on the top surface, particularly when the amplitude of the internal solitary wave is large. Once excited, the wave packet is located above the front half of the internal solitary wave and propagates with a speed close to that of the internal solitary wave underneath. A simple resonance mechanism between short surface waves and long internal waves without and with nonlinear effects is examined to estimate the characteristic wavelength of modulated short surface waves, which is found to be in good agreement with the observed wavelength when nonlinearity is taken into account. Using ray theory, the evolution of short surface waves in the presence of a background current induced by an internal solitary wave is also investigated to examine the location of the modulated surface wave packet. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A series of experiments were conducted in a wave basin (50 m long, 10 m wide and 5 m deep) generating two waves propagating at an angle by a directional wavemaker. When the two waves were selected from a resonant triplet, an initially non-existing wave grew as the waves propagated down the tank. The linear growth rate of the resonating wave agreed well with third-order resonance theory based on Zakharov's reduced gravity equation. Additional experiments with opposing and coflowing mean current with large temporal and spatial variations were conducted. As the flow rate increased, the linear growth was suppressed. As reproduced numerically with Zakharov's equation, the resonant interaction saturated at time scales inversely proportional to the magnitude of the forced random resonance detuning. It is conjectured that the resonance is detuned by the variation and not by the mean of the current field due to wavelength-dependent Doppler shift and to the refraction of wave rays. Further analysis of the spectral evolution revealed that while discrete peaks appear at high frequencies as a result of dynamical cascading, a continuously saturated spectrum develops in the background as the current speed increases. Additional experiments were conducted studying the evolution of the random directional wave on a dynamical time scale under the influence of current. Due to random resonance detuning by the current, the spectral tail tended to be suppressed. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract Motivated by an analysis of a satellite sea surface temperature image suggesting that a train of extra-tropical cyclones induces amplification of the Kuroshio meander, a regional Kuroshio/Oyashio general circulation model was used to investigate the impact of high-frequency wind on the Kuroshio path variations. Near Japan, the standard deviation of the wind stress curl can be 10 times larger than the monthly mean, so the synoptic variations of the wind stress curl cannot be neglected. With the bimodal Kuroshio case realized in the model, sensitivity tests were conducted using monthly and daily mean QuikSCAT-derived wind stress forcings. The comparison showed that the high-frequency local wind perturbed the Shikoku recirculation gyre (SRG) and caused a transition of the path from straight to meander. The strong anticyclonic eddy within the SRG triggered the meander in the latter case. The high-frequency wind perturbed the motion of the eddy that would have otherwise detached from the Kuroshio, migrated south and terminated the meandering state. The result reinforces the suggestion from previous studies that the anticyclonic eddy within the SRG plays an active role in controlling the Kuroshio path variations. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Wavelet Analysis provides a new orthogonal basis set which is localized in both physical space and Fourier transform space. Empirical Orthogonal Functions (EOFs), on the other hand, provide a global representation of data sets. Here we investigate the various ways in which one can combine these basis sets for optimal representation of data. EOFs represent the global large scale information and wavelet analysis are used to supplement this large scale information with local fine scale information. Here we begin to explore the application of these two basis sets for outputs from an Ocean General Circulation Model and we explore various applications, including data assimilation. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]