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Wave energy converters (WECs) will have to be arranged into arrays of many devices to extract commercially viable amounts of energy. To understand the potential coastal impacts of WEC arrays, most research to date has relied on wave-averaged models given their computational efficiency. However, it is unknown how accurate wave-averaged model predictions are given a lack of validation data and their inherent simplifications of various hydrodynamic processes (e.g., diffraction). This paper compares the predictions of coastal wave farm impacts from a coupled wave-averaged and flow model (Delft3D-SNL-SWAN), to a wave-resolving wave-flow model (SWASH) that intrinsically accounts for more of the relevant physics. Model predictions were compared using an idealized coastal bathymetry over a range of wave conditions and wave farm geometries. Both models predicted the largest impacts (changes to the nearshore hydrodynamics) for large and dense wave farms located close to the shore (1 km) and the smallest impacts for the small and widely spaced farm at a greater offshore distance (3 km). However, the wave-resolving model generally predicted somewhat larger impacts (i.e., changes to the nearshore wave heights, mean velocities and mean water levels). We also found that coupling the wave-averaged model to a flow model resulted in more realistic downstream predictions than the stand-alone wave-averaged model. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

When extracting wave energy, arrays of wave energy converters (or wave farms) may alter surrounding wave and flow fields. This paper studies the modification of hydrodynamic processes at the coastline induced by nearshore wave farms using a recently developed phase-resolving wave-flow model. Changes to nearshore hydrodynamics were assessed for various farm configurations of submerged point-absorbers positioned 1–3 km offshore that were subject to realistic sea-states. In the lee of the farms, wave heights were attenuated and onshore directed flows were generated that extended several hundred meters shoreward but did not impinge the coast. For scenarios in which the wave shadow extended to the coast, the nearshore wave height and setup were reduced resulting in longshore pressure gradients driving longshore flows that converged in the lee of the farms. Changes were largest for compact farms at smaller offshore distances, and conversely, were significantly smaller for wider spaced arrays at greater offshore distances. Based on a bulk longshore sediment transport formulation, the converging flow patterns indicate conditions favourable for the accumulation of sediment in the direct lee and divergence of sediments at locations up/down coast from the farm, suggesting a reorientation of the shoreline in response to the wave farm configurations considered. • Coastal impacts by nearshore wave farms studied with a phase-resolving model. • Nearshore farms reduce nearshore waves and setup, driving converging flow patterns. • Consistent flow patterns for a range of farm configurations and offshore distances. • Flow patterns indicative of accumulation of sediments in direct lee of the farms. • Bulk LST formula suggests reorientation of the coast in response to the wave farms. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Currents can affect the evolution of waves in nearshore regions through altering their wavenumber and amplitude. Including the effect of ambient currents (e.g., tidal and wind-driven) on waves in phase-resolving wave models is not straightforward as it requires appropriate boundary conditions in combination with a large domain size and long simulation duration. In this paper, we extended the non-hydrostatic wave-flow model SWASH with additional terms that account for the influence of a depth-uniform ambient current on the wave dynamics, in which the current field can be taken from an external source (e.g., from observations or a circulation model). We verified the model ability by comparing predictions to results from linear theory, laboratory experiments and a spectral wave model that accounts for wave interference effects. With this extension, the model was able to account for current-induced changes to the wave field (i.e., changes to the wave amplitude, length and direction) due to following and opposing currents, and two classical examples of sheared currents (a jet-like current and vortex ring). Furthermore, the model captured the wave dynamics in the presence of strong opposing currents. This includes reflections of relatively small amplitude waves at the theoretical blocking point, and transmission of breaking waves beyond the theoretical blocking point for larger wave amplitudes. The proposed model extension allows phase-resolving models to more accurately and efficiently simulate the wave dynamics in coastal regions with tidal and/or wind-driven flows. • Extension of non-hydrostatic model to account for effect ambient currents on waves. • Comparison to linear theory, spectral wave models and laboratory experiments. • Extended model captured current-induced changes to wave kinematics. • Improved modelling of wave dynamics in coastal regions with tidal/wind-driven currents. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract With the increasing interest in wave energy, and when moving towards commercial-scale wave-energy projects, a detailed understanding of the interactions between single and arrays of wave-energy converters (WECs) with the ambient wave and flow field becomes imperative for both design and operational purposes, as well as assessment of their environmental impacts. This work presents a new numerical approach to simulate the nonlinear evolution of the waves and their interactions with a submerged wave-energy converter at the scale of a realistic coastal region. The numerical approach is based on the non-hydrostatic framework, and implemented in the open-source SWASH model, which provides an efficient tool to simulate the nonlinear evolution of waves over realistic coastal bathymetries. Here, we present a numerical extension to the non-hydrostatic approach to account for interactions between waves and a submerged point absorber, and to capture the response of such a wave energy device. Model results are compared with an analytical solution based on potential flow theory, a CFD simulation, and experimental data to validate its capabilities in simulating the wave-WEC interactions for both linear and nonlinear wave conditions. Overall, the results of this validation demonstrate that the model captures the wave-structure interactions and the body response with satisfactory accuracy. Notably, the results also indicate that a coarse vertical resolution was sufficient to capture these dynamics, making the model sufficiently computationally efficient to simulate the interaction of waves and WECs over large scales. As a consequence, this new modelling approach should provide a promising new alternative to simulate the interactions between nonlinear wave fields and submerged point absorbers at the scale of a realistic coastal region. Highlights • Extension to non-hydrostatic approach to accommodate submerged floating objects. • Model results compare well with analytical solutions, CFD model, and lab experiment. • The model efficiently captures the wave-structure interactions and body response. • First step towards simulating regional WEC impacts with a non-hydrostatic model. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Wave-induced currents are an ubiquitous feature in coastal waters that can spread material over the surf zone and the inner shelf. These currents are typically under resolved in non-hydrostatic wave-flow models due to computational constraints. Specifically, the low vertical resolutions adequate to describe the wave dynamics – and required to feasibly compute at the scales of a field site – are too coarse to account for the relevant details of the three-dimensional (3D) flow field. To describe the relevant dynamics of both wave and currents, while retaining a model framework that can be applied at field scales, we propose a two grid approach to solve the governing equations. With this approach, the vertical accelerations and non-hydrostatic pressures are resolved on a relatively coarse vertical grid (which is sufficient to accurately resolve the wave dynamics), whereas the horizontal velocities and turbulent stresses are resolved on a much finer subgrid (of which the resolution is dictated by the vertical scale of the mean flows). This approach ensures that the discrete pressure Poisson equation – the solution of which dominates the computational effort – is evaluated on the coarse grid scale, thereby greatly improving efficiency, while providing a fine vertical resolution to resolve the vertical variation of the mean flow. This work presents the general methodology, and discusses the numerical implementation in the SWASH wave-flow model. Model predictions are compared with observations of three flume experiments to demonstrate that the subgrid approach captures both the nearshore evolution of the waves, and the wave-induced flows like the undertow profile and longshore current. The accuracy of the subgrid predictions is comparable to fully resolved 3D simulations – but at much reduced computational costs. The findings of this work thereby demonstrate that the subgrid approach has the potential to make 3D non-hydrostatic simulations feasible at the scale of a realistic coastal region. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This paper presents a numerical model to simulate the evolution of waves and their interactions with a restrained ship that is moored in coastal waters. The model aims to be applicable at the scale of a harbour or coastal region, while accounting for the key physical processes that determine the hydrodynamic loads on the ship. Its methodology is based on the non-hydrostatic wave-flow model SWASH, which provides an efficient tool to simulate the nonlinear dynamics that govern the nearshore wave field. In this work, we propose a new numerical algorithm that accounts for the presence of a non-moving floating body, to resolve the wave impact on a restrained ship. The model is validated through comparisons with an analytic solution, a numerical solution, and two laboratory campaigns. The results of the model-data comparison demonstrate that the model captures the scattering of waves by a restrained body. Furthermore, it gives a reasonable prediction of the hydrodynamic loads that act on a restrained container ship for a range of wave conditions. Importantly, the model captures these dynamics efficiently, which demonstrates that it retains this favourable property of the non-hydrostatic approach when a floating body is included. The findings of this study suggest that the model provides a promising new alternative to simulate the nonlinear evolution of waves and their impact on a restrained ship at the scale of a realistic harbour or coastal region. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Predictions of the wave-induced response of floating structures that are moored in a harbour or coastal waters require an accurate description of the (nonlinear) evolution of waves over variable bottom topography, the interactions of the waves with the structure, and the dynamics of the mooring system. In this paper, we present a new advanced numerical model to simulate the wave-induced response of a floating structure that is moored in an arbitrary nearshore region. The model is based on the non-hydrostatic approach, and implemented in the open-source model SWASH, which provides an efficient numerical framework to simulate the nonlinear wave evolution over variable bottom topographies. The model is extended with a solution to the rigid body equations (governing the motions of the floating structure) that is tightly coupled to the hydrodynamic equations (governing the water motion). The model was validated for two test cases that consider different floating structures of increasing geometrical complexity: a cylindrical geometry that is representative of a wave-energy-converter, and a vessel with a more complex shaped hull. A range of wave conditions were considered, varying from monochromatic to short-crested sea states. Model predictions of the excitation forces, added mass, radiation damping, and the wave-induced response agreed well with benchmark solutions to the potential flow equations. Besides the response to the primary wave (sea-swell) components, the model was also able to capture the second-order difference-frequency forcing and response of the moored vessel. Importantly, the model captured the wave-induced response with a relatively coarse vertical resolution, allowing for applications at the scale of a realistic harbour or coastal region. The proposed model thereby provides a new tool to seamlessly simulate the nonlinear evolution of waves over complex bottom topography and the wave-induced response of a floating structure that is moored in coastal waters. • New numerical tool to predict the wave-induced response of moored floating structures. • Comparison to solutions to the potential flow equations for a variety of sea-states. • The model captures the first and second-order response induced by irregular waves. • Model can predict the motions of a moored structure based on an offshore sea state. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract: The non-hydrostatic wave model SWASH is compared to flume observations of infragravity waves propagating over a plane slope and barred beach. The experiments cover a range of infragravity wave conditions, including forcing by bichromatic and irregular waves, varying from strongly dissipative to strongly reflective, so that model performance can be assessed for a wide range of conditions. The predicted bulk wave parameters, such as wave height and mean wave period, are found to be in good agreement with the observations. Moreover, the model captures the observed breaking of infragravity waves. These results demonstrate that SWASH can be used to model the nearshore evolution of infragravity waves, including nonlinear interactions, dissipation and shoreline reflections. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Analysis of the mean (wave-averaged) momentum balance is a common approach used to explain the physical forcing driving wave set-up and mean currents in the nearshore zone. Traditionally this approach has been applied to phase-averaged models but has more recently been applied to phase-resolving models using post-processing, whereby model output is used to calculate each of the momentum terms. While phase-resolving models have the advantage of capturing the nonlinear properties of waves propagating in the nearshore (making them advantageous to enhance understanding of nearshore processes), the post-processing calculation of the momentum terms does not guarantee that the momentum balance closes. We show that this is largely due to the difficulty (or impossibility) of being consistent with the numerical approach. If the residual is of a similar magnitude as any of the relevant momentum terms (which is common with post-processing methods as we show), the analysis is largely compromised. Here we present a new method to internally calculate and extract the depth-integrated, mean momentum terms in the phase-resolving non-hydrostatic wave-flow model SWASH in a manner that is consistent with the numerical implementation. Further, we demonstrate the utility of the new method with two existing physical model studies. By being consistent with the numerical framework, the internal method calculates the momentum terms with a much lower residual at computer precision, combined with greatly reduced calculation time and output storage requirements compared to post-processing techniques. The method developed here allows the accurate evaluation of the depth-integrated, mean momentum terms of wave-driven flows while taking advantage of the more complete representation of the wave dynamics offered by phase-resolving models. Furthermore, it provides an opportunity for advances in the understanding of nearshore processes particularly at more complex sites where wave nonlinearity and energy transfers are important. • We develop a method to calculate the momentum terms in a phase-resolving model. • We demonstrate the utility of the method with two existing physical model studies. • By being consistent with the numerical framework there is no residual. • Our method reduces output size and calculation time. • The new method will allow advances in the understanding of nearshore processes. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Engineered and natural submerged coastal structures (e.g., submerged breakwaters and reefs) modify incident wave fields and thus can alter hydrodynamic processes adjacent to coastlines. Although submerged structures are generally assumed to promote beach protection by dissipating waves offshore and creating sheltered conditions in their lee, their interaction with waves can result in mean wave-driven circulation patterns that may either promote shoreline accretion or erosion. Here, we analyse the mean flow patterns and shoreline water levels (wave runup) in the lee of idealised impermeable submerged structures with a phase-resolved nonhydrostatic numerical model. Waves propagating over submerged structures can drive either a 2-cell mean (wave-averaged) circulation, which is characterised by diverging flows behind the structure and at the shoreline, or 4-cell circulation, with converging flows at the shoreline and diverging flows in the immediate lee of the structure. The numerical results show that the mode of circulation can be predicted with a set of relationships depending on the incoming wave heights, the structure crest level, and distance to the shoreline (or structure depth). Qualitative agreement between the mean flow and proxies for the sediment transport using an energetics approach suggest that the mean flow can be a robust proxy for inferring sediment transport patterns. For the cases considered, the submerged structures had a minimal influence on shoreline wave setup and wave runup despite the wave energy dissipation by the structures due to alongshore wave energy fluxes in the lee. Consequently, these results suggest that the coastal protection provided by the range of impermeable submerged structures we modelled is primarily due to their capacity to promote beach accretion. • A phase-resolved model simulates hydrodynamic interactions with submerged structures. • Waves can drive 2-cell or 4-cell mean circulation and sediment transport patterns. • Bottom shear stresses presented an overall similar pattern to the mean currents. • We develop a predictor for the flow patterns based on wave and structure parameters. • The submerged structures had limited influence on shoreline setup and wave runup. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Long waves are generated and transform when short-wave groups propagate into shallow water, but the generation and transformation processes are not fully understood. In this study we develop an analytical solution to the linearized shallow-water equations at the wave-group scale, which decomposes the long waves into a forced solution (a bound long wave) and free solutions (free long waves). The solution relies on the hypothesis that free long waves are continuously generated as short-wave groups propagate over a varying depth. We show that the superposition of free long waves and a bound long wave results in a shift of the phase between the short-wave group and the total long wave, as the depth decreases prior to short-wave breaking. While it is known that short-wave breaking leads to free-long-wave generation, through breakpoint forcing and bound-wave release mechanisms, we highlight the importance of an additional free-long-wave generation mechanism due to depth variations, in the absence of breaking. This mechanism is important because as free long waves of different origins combine, the total free-long-wave amplitude is dependent on their phase relationship. Our free and forced solutions are verified against a linear numerical model, and we show how our solution is consistent with prior theory that does not explicitly decouple free and forced motions. We also validate the results with data from a nonlinear phase-resolving numerical wave model and experimental measurements, demonstrating that our analytical model can explain trends observed in more complete representations of the hydrodynamics. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]