1. 清代团鹤纹石青缎的染料鉴定及色彩分析.
- Author
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李永固, 金鉴梅, 高素芸, 张国伟, 刘剑, and 赵丰
- Abstract
Textile cultural relics are the precious heritage of human history and culture, colors are an important expression of textile cultural relics, and dyes are the basic core of color expression. Dye archaeology is an important branch in the study of textile relics. By testing the colors and dyes of cultural relics and combining with ancient literature records, important historical information such as dye source, dyeing process, internal aesthetics, commodity circulation, age and origin of cultural relics can be obtained. The azurite satin with a crane roundel pattern in the Qing Dynasty is well preserved and rich in color, which to some extent represents the dyeing technology level of the Qing Dynasty, so it is of great value to study the history and culture of this silk cultural relic and the dyeing technology of China in the Qing Dynasty. To learn about the historical information contained in silk textile cultural relics of the Qing Dynasty and excavate the artistic value, the natural dyes used in the azurite satin with a crane roundel pattern collected in China National Silk Museum were detected by using HPLC-MS technology. The retention time of chromatography, the maximum absorption wavelength of the ultraviolet-visible spectrum, and primary and secondary mass spectrometry of the dye pigments were combined to identify the dye raw materials used in the cultural relics. In addition, the use of textile colors in the Qing Dynasty was analyzed by combining the identification results with relevant historical documents in the Qing Dynasty, such as Book of Cloth and Settlement Archives of Dyeing Workshops of the Ministry of Internal Affairs. The results showed that urolithin C, brazilien, curcumin and its two derivatives were detected in the orange embroidery thread of the azurite satin with a crane roundel pattern of the Qing Dynasty. Berberine, palmatine and indirubin were detected in the light green embroidery thread. Isoorientin, luteolin-O-glucoside, and indirubin were detected in the dark green embroidery thread. Indirubin was detected in the blue embroidery thread. It can be concluded that the orange yarn was dyed with sappanwood and turmeric, consistent with the color and dyes used to dye “apricot yellow” recorded in Book of Cloth, the light green yarn was dyed with barberry and indigo, which was similar to the dyeing process of sand green and bean green recorded in the ancient books of Settlement Archives of Dyeing Workshops of the Ministry of Internal Affairs of the Qing Dynasty and The Exploitation of the Works of Nature of the Ming Dynasty. The dark green yarn was dyed with Vitex negundo and indigo, the blue yarn was dyed with indigo. The above colors and dyes correspond to the records in ancient literature, indicating that the process of dyeing secondary colors with multiple dyes in the Ming and Qing dyes was very mature, and people knew about the use of different dyes to obtain different shades of the same color. In this research, natural dyes used on the azurite satin with a crane roundel pattern of the Qing Dynasty collected by China National Silk Museum were detected and successfully identified, and this cultural relic is also the first case of Vitex negundo to be identified among Qing Dynasty silk fabric artifacts. Based on the dye records in ancient documents, this research speculates the dyeing process corresponding to the color of the cultural relics, and analyzes other information such as the production area of the cultural relics through the corresponding process characteristics and dye distribution in ancient books. The results can provide reference for the color restoration of the Qing Dynasty silk fabrics, and provide a scientific basis for the research on the dyeing history, the protection and display of the silk cultural relics. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2023
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