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Abstract: Ocean surface waves are the dominant temporally and spatially variable process influencing sea floor sediment resuspension along most continental shelves. Wave-induced sediment mobility on the continental shelf and upper continental slope off central California for different phases of El Niño-Southern Oscillation (ENSO) events was modeled using monthly statistics derived from more than 14 years of concurrent hourly oceanographic and meteorologic data as boundary input for the Delft SWAN wave model, gridded sea floor grain-size data from the usSEABED database, and regional bathymetry. Differences as small as 0.5m in wave height, 1s in wave period, and 10° in wave direction, in conjunction with the spatially heterogeneous unconsolidated sea-floor sedimentary cover, result in significant changes in the predicted mobility of continental shelf surficial sediment in the study area. El Niño events result in more frequent mobilization on the inner shelf in the summer and winter than during La Niña events and on the outer shelf and upper slope in the winter months, while La Niña events result in more frequent mobilization on the mid-shelf during spring and summer months than during El Niño events. The timing and patterns of seabed mobility are addressed in context of geologic and biologic processes. By understanding the spatial and temporal variability in the disturbance of the sea floor, scientists can better interpret sedimentary patterns and ecosystem structure, while providing managers and planners an understanding of natural impacts when considering the permitting of offshore activities that disturb the sea floor such as trawling, dredging, and the emplacement of sea-floor engineering structures. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract: Cross-shore exchange by strong (cross-shore wind stress, τsx >0.05Pa) diurnal (7–25h) sea breeze events are investigated using two years of continuous wind, wave, and ocean velocity profiles in 13m water depth on the inner-shelf in Marina, Monterey bay, California. The diurnal surface wind stress, waves, and currents have spectral peaks at 1, 2, and 3cpd and the diurnal variability represents about 50% of the total variability. During sea breeze relaxation (−0.05<τsx <0.05Pa), a background wave-driven inner-shelf Eulerian undertow profile exists, which is equal and opposite to the Lagrangian Stokes drift profile, resulting in a net zero Lagrangian transport at depth. In the presence of a sea breeze (τsx >0.05Pa), a uniform offshore profile develops that is different from the background undertow profile allowing cross-shore Lagrangian transport to develop, while including Lagrangian Stokes drift. The diurnal cross-shore current response is similar to subtidal (>25h) cross-shore current response, as found by . The seasonality of waves and winds modify the diurnal sea breeze impact. It is suggested that material is not transported cross-shore except during sea breeze events owing to near zero transport during relaxation periods. During sea breeze events, cross-shore exchange of material appears to occur onshore near the surface and offshore near the sea bed. Since sea breeze events last for a few hours, the long-term cross-shore transport is incremental each day. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: In the summer of 2001, a coastal ocean measurement program in the southeastern portion of San Pedro Bay, CA, was designed and carried out. One aim of the program was to determine the strength and effectiveness of local cross-shelf transport processes. A particular objective was to assess the ability of semidiurnal internal tidal currents to move suspended material a net distance across the shelf. Hence, a dense array of moorings was deployed across the shelf to monitor the transport patterns associated with fluctuations in currents, temperature and salinity. An associated hydrographic program periodically monitored synoptic changes in the spatial patterns of temperature, salinity, nutrients and bacteria. This set of measurements show that a series of energetic internal tides can, but do not always, transport subthermocline water, dissolved and suspended material from the middle of the shelf into the surfzone. Effective cross-shelf transport occurs only when (1) internal tides at the shelf break are strong and (2) subtidal currents flow strongly downcoast. The subtidal downcoast flow causes isotherms to tilt upward toward the coast, which allows energetic, nonlinear internal tidal currents to carry subthermocline waters into the surfzone. During these events, which may last for several days, the transported water remains in the surfzone until the internal tidal current pulses and/or the downcoast subtidal currents disappear. This nonlinear internal tide cross-shelf transport process was capable of carrying water and the associated suspended or dissolved material from the mid-shelf into the surfzone, but there were no observation of transport from the shelf break into the surfzone. Dissolved nutrients and suspended particulates (such as phytoplankton) transported from the mid-shelf into the nearshore region by nonlinear internal tides may contribute to nearshore algal blooms, including harmful algal blooms that occur off local beaches. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

We combine direct observations, longer-term wave data, and model calculations to characterize resuspension and transport of fine-grained, effluent-affected sediment on the Palos Verdes shelf. Near-bed waves, currents, and suspended sediment concentrations were monitored during the winter of 1992–93 with a bottom tripod and current-meter mooring at a 63-m-deep site. Wave conditions that winter were moderate (∼2 year recurrence interval), and mean current was alongshelf to the northwest; currents were not significantly correlated with wave conditions. Seven wave events during the winter (December–March) produced near-bed wave orbital velocities at the study site in excess of 14 cm s−1, the observed threshold for significant resuspension. Three of these events occurred during the bottom tripod deployment and are characterized by the highest persistent suspended sediment concentrations in the tripod record. Suspended sediment flux was alongshelf to the northwest for 5 of the 6 wave events for which current data were available; one event occurred during low southeast currents. Measured suspended sediment concentration and grain size generally agree with values that were calculated using a shelf sediment transport model with no adjustment of parameters from values determined for two muddy sites on the northern California shelf. We extend our seasonal observations to a period of almost 2 decades by applying the observed thresholds for wave-driven resuspension to near-bed wave conditions calculated from NDBC Buoy 46025 surface wave data. An average of 10 resuspension events per year, with an average duration of 1.6 days, were identified at a water depth of 60 m; the number of events dropped to 3 per year at 90 m, beyond the shelf break. For the majority of these events, calculated net suspended sediment flux is toward the northwest (alongshelf) at an average rate of 140 kg m−1 h−1; about a third of the events have net southeastward flux at an average rate of 30 kg m−1 h−1. The calculated thickness of the resuspended surface layer of the bed was less than 1 cm for all events at 60 m. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]