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To mitigate land losses in the Mississippi River Delta, sediment diversions are being employed to enable the flow of river water and sediments into wetlands experiencing degradation. A two-dimensional coupled flow-wave Delft3D model was used in this study to explore the hydrodynamics and sediment transport in Fourleague Bay (FLB), Louisiana, USA, which has been considered an analog site for studying the efficiency of sediment diversion projects. In-situ measurements of sediment accretion and hydrodynamic characteristics from 2015 to 2016 were utilized to calibrate and validate the morphodynamic model. The validated model was then applied to quantify sediment transport in FLB and surrounding marshes between May 2015 and May 2016. The results show that more sediment could be deposited to the surrounding marshes with high river discharges and strong winds. Thus, by strategically aligning the timing of pulses of river water from the diversion with the seasonal intensification of atmospheric forcing, it is possible to sustain and promote the growth of the surrounding wetlands. Moreover, we found that multiple sediment transport processes occurred during the entire study period, including the deposition of riverine sediment into the bay floor, direct deposition of riverine sediment in the surrounding marshes, resuspension of bay floor sediment, and redistribution of resuspended sediment to adjacent marshes and the Gulf of Mexico (GoM). The results indicate that the riverine sediment tended to be directly deposited in the marshes when the river discharge was high. During calm weather conditions and normal river discharge, FLB acted as a reservoir, storing sediment from the upper river, and later acted as a sediment source to the nearby wetlands and the GoM during energetic atmospheric conditions. This suggests that using the bay floor as a reservoir can extend the distance over which wetlands can benefit from the sediment diversions, as the supply of sediment to the wetlands becomes a multi-step process. Thus, it is important to retain sediments from river diversions in shallow bays and allow storms to redistribute them to adjacent wetlands. • A morphodynamic model was developed to understand the fine sediment dispersal process from a river to coastal wetlands. • The model was calibrated and validated using unique measurements of hydrodynamics and sediment accretion rates. • More sediment could be deposited to the surrounding marshes with high river discharges and strong winds. • Sediment deposited on the surrounding marshes was primarily from the river and bay floor. • Riverine sediment tends to be directly deposited onto the marshes during high discharge stages. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Tidal sand waves are rhythmic bed forms found in shallow sandy coastal seas, reaching heights up to ten meters and migration rates of several meters per year. Because of their dynamic behaviour, unravelling the physical processes behind the growth of these bed forms is of particular interest to science and offshore industries. Various modelling efforts have given a good description of the initial stages of sand wave formation by adopting a linear stability analysis on the coupled system of water movement and the sandy seabed. However, the physical processes causing sand waves to grow towards equilibrium are far from understood. We adopt a numerical shallow water model (Delft3D) to study the growth of sand waves towards a stable equilibrium. It is shown that both suspended load transport and tidal asymmetry reduce the equilibrium sand wave height. A residual current results in asymmetrical bed forms that migrate in the direction of the residual current. The combination of suspended load transport and tidal asymmetry results in predicted equilibrium wave heights comparable to wave heights found in the field. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Hurricanes have long been recognized as a strong forcing in shaping the coastal morphology, especially by redistributing sediments among coastal wetlands, bays and inner continental shelves. However, the contribution of hurricane-induced sediment transport to the sediment budget of a shelf – bay – wetland system has not been evaluated using a physics-based numerical model. There is a particular confusion on how sediment transport to coastal wetlands contributes to sediment accretion in wetlands and thus wetland adaptation to sea level rise. In this paper, we present a coupled modeling system for hurricane winds, storm surge, waves and sediment transport on the Louisiana coast, and use it to investigate two fundamental questions: (1) How much sediment is transported and deposited on coastal wetlands during a major hurricane event like Hurricane Gustav (2008), and (2) where is the source of the deposited sediment on the wetland soil surface. Our model successfully reproduced the measured basin-averaged sediment accretion in the Terrebonne and Barataria Basins after Gustav, and estimated that Hurricane Gustav imported approximately 27 million metric tons of sediment on wetlands in that area. The estimated deposition was mainly made up of mud suspended from the coastal bays, and the contribution of this sediment to wetland deposition was 88.7% in Terrebonne Bay and 98.2% in Barataria Bay within the tested range of sediment properties. This paper demonstrates a useful tool to help understand how sediment dynamics in the coastal zone during hurricane events play a significant role in the sediment budget of a deltaic coast. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The salt marshes of Jamaica Bay serve as a recreational outlet for New York City residents, mitigate wave impacts during coastal storms, and provide habitat for critical wildlife species. Hurricanes have been recognized as one of the critical drivers of coastal wetland morphology due to their effects on hydrodynamics and sediment transport, deposition, and erosion processes. In this study, the Delft3D modeling suite was utilized to examine the effects of Hurricane Sandy (2012) on salt marsh morphology in Jamaica Bay. Observed marsh elevation change and accretion from rod Surface Elevation Tables and feldspar Marker Horizons (SET-MH) and hydrodynamic measurements during Hurricane Sandy were used to calibrate and validate the wind-waves-surge-sediment transport-morphology coupled model. The model results agreed well with in situ field measurements. The validated model was then used to detect salt marsh morphological change due to Sandy across Jamaica Bay. Model results indicate that the island-wide morphological changes in the bay's salt marshes due to Sandy were in the range of −30 mm (erosion) to +15 mm (deposition), and spatially complex and heterogeneous. The storm generated paired deposition and erosion patches at local scales. Salt marshes inside the west section of the bay showed erosion overall while marshes inside the east section showed deposition from Sandy. The net sediment amount that Sandy brought into the bay is only about 1% of the total amount of reworked sediment within the bay during the storm. Numerical experiments show that waves and vegetation played a critical role in sediment transport and associated wetland morphological change in Jamaica Bay. Furthermore, without the protection of vegetation, the marsh islands of Jamaica Bay would experience both more erosion and less accretion in coastal storms. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Mega-nourishments, aiming at providing long-term coastal safety, nature qualities and recreational space, have been applied recently at the Holland coast and are considered at various other places in the world. Methods to quickly evaluate the potential and lifetime of these coastal mega nourishments are therefore very much desired, which is the main objective of this research. Two types of mega nourishments can be distinguished: feeder-type mega nourishments may erode freely to feed adjacent coasts for a more natural, dynamic dune growth while permanent mega-nourishments are designed to preserve safety levels and need to maintain their size and shape and thus needs to be nourished themselves. The design and impact assessment studies for both types of mega nourishments require detailed morphological studies to determine the morphological evolution. In this paper 2DH (Delft3D) and 1D (UNIBEST-CL+ and LONGMOR) numerical models were calibrated using data of the Sand Motor mega-nourishment and were then applied to model a series of mega-nourishments with various width over length ratios and volumes in order to derive relations and design graphs for erosion rates, life span and maintenance volumes. These relations and design graphs can be used in project initiation phases and feasibility studies. The magnitude of the modelled wave-driven longshore sediment transport rates in 1D coastline models depend on the representation of wave refraction on the lower shoreface, since a distinction should be made between the non-rotating lower shoreface and active surfzone. It was shown that the life time of nourishments is mainly determined by the dimensions of the nourishment and incoming wave energy. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A submerged, low-relief nearshore berm was constructed in the Pacific Ocean near the mouth of the Columbia River, USA, using 216,000 m3 of sediment dredged from the adjacent navigation channel. The material dredged from the navigation channel was placed on the northern flank of the ebb-tidal delta in water depths between 12 and 15 m and created a distinct feature that could be tracked over time. Field measurements and numerical modeling were used to evaluate the transport pathways, time scales, and physical processes responsible for dispersal of the berm and evaluate the suitability of the location for operational placement of dredged material to enhance the sediment supply to eroding beaches onshore of the placement site. Repeated multibeam bathymetric surveys characterized the initial berm morphology and dispersion of the berm between September 22, 2020, and March 10, 2021. During this time, the volume of sediment within the berm decreased by about 40%to 127,000 m3, the maximum height decreased by almost 60%, and the center of the deposit shifted onshore over 200 m. Observations of berm morphology were compared with predictions from a three-dimensional hydrodynamic and sediment transport model application to refine poorly constrained model input parameters including sediment transport coefficients, bed schematization, and grain size. The calibrated sediment transport model was used to predict the amount, timing, and direction of transport outside of the observed survey area. Model simulations predicted that tidal currents were weak in the vicinity of the berm and wave processes including enhanced bottom stresses and asymmetric bottom orbital velocities resulted in dominant onshore movement of sediment from the berm toward the coastline. Roughly 50% of the berm volume was predicted to disperse away from the initial placement site during the 169 day hindcast. Between 9 and 17% of the initial volume of the berm was predicted to accumulate along the shoreface of a shoreline reach experiencing chronic erosion directly onshore of the placement site. Scenarios exploring alternate placement locations suggested that the berm was relatively effective in enhancing the sediment supply along the eroding coastline north of the inlet. The transferable monitoring and modeling framework developed in this study can be used to inform implementation of strategic nearshore placements and regional sediment management in complex, high-energy coastal environments elsewhere. • The morphology and dispersion of a nearshore berm was quantified with repeated mulitbeam bathymetry surveys. • A three-dimensional hydrodynamic and sediment transport model was calibrated based on observations of berm morphology. • Calibrated model hindcast simulations accurately predicted observed changes in berm morphology. • Model predictions used to predict fate of berm sediment and quantify amount of sediment supplied to to eroding coastline. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Low-energy, non-tidal lake beaches are known to be subject to longshore morphodynamics, but little is known about how they are driven by wind and wave-driven currents. Lake Markermeer is a shallow (∼ 4 m deep), wind-dominated lake, of approximately 700 km 2. A gradient in wind-induced water level set-up at the leeward shore induces a flow from the shallower to the deeper parts of the lake, thereby generating a large-scale, horizontal circulation. Flow measurements and results from a numerical Delft3D model of the lake show that these circulations impact the nearshore currents greatly, even more than wave-driven longshore currents for most wind conditions. From nearshore measurements at the first study site in lake Markermeer, we found a clear relation between longshore sediment transport capacity and the measured longshore volume flux. The model numerical can predict flow direction and magnitude for any wind condition. Using wind statistics, the net transport capacity for a short period or a long term mean can be predicted. The relation is confirmed for a second study site, which shows a distinct net transport capacity that could not be explained from wave-driven longshore flow alone. Concluding, large-scale lake circulations are of great significance for the morphological development of low-energy, non-tidal beaches in shallow, wind-driven water bodies. Knowledge of these circulations and their dependence on wind characteristics is a crucial factor to better understand and predict sediment losses of lake beaches. • In wind-dominated lakes, bathymetrical variance causes water level set-up gradients. • In shallow lakes, set-up gradients can induce large-scale, horizontal circulations. • Large-scale lake circulations affect longshore sediment transport on lake beaches. • Longshore sediment transport has a significant impact on design and maintenance. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Field-tested numerical model simulations are used to estimate the effects of an inlet, ebb shoal, wave height, wave direction, and shoreline geometry on the variability of bathymetric change on a curved coast with a migrating inlet and strong nearshore currents. The model uses bathymetry measured along the southern shoreline of Martha's Vineyard, MA, and was validated with waves and currents observed from the shoreline to ~10-m water depth. Between 2007 and 2014, the inlet was open and the shoreline along the southeast corner of the island eroded ~200 m and became sharper. Between 2014 and 2015, the corner accreted and became smoother as the inlet closed. Numerical simulations indicate that variability of sediment transport near the corner shoreline depends more strongly on its radius of curvature (a proxy for the separation of tidal flows from the coast) than on the presence of the inlet, the ebb shoal, or wave height and direction. As the radius of curvature decreases (as the corner sharpens), tidal asymmetry of nearshore currents is enhanced, leading to more sediment transport near the shoreline over several tidal cycles. The results suggest that feedbacks between shoreline geometry and inner-shelf flows can be important to coastal erosion and accretion in the vicinity of an inlet. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Sand nourishments are presently widely applied to maintain or enhance coastal safety and beach width. Over the last decades, global sand nourishment volumes have increased greatly, and the demand for nourishments is anticipated to increase further in coming decades due to sea level rise. With the increase in nourishment size and the request for more complex nourishment shapes, an adequate prediction of the morphodynamic evolution is of major importance. Yet, neither the skill of current state-of-the-art models for such predictions nor the primary drivers that control the evolution are known. This article presents the results of a detailed numerical modelling study undertaken to examine the model skill and the processes governing the initial morphological response of the Sand Engine and the adjacent coastline. The process-based model Delft3D is used to hindcast the first year after completion of the mega-nourishment. The model reproduces measured water levels, velocities and nearshore waves well. The prediction of the morphological evolution is consistent with the measured evolution during the study period, with Brier Skill Scores in the ‘Excellent’ range. The model results clearly indicate that the sand eroded from the main peninsular section of the Sand Engine is deposited along adjacent north and south coastlines, accreting up to 6 km of coastline within just one year. Analysis of model results further show that the erosional behaviour of the Sand Engine is linearly dependent on the cumulative wave energy of individual high energy wave events, with the duration of a storm event being more dominant than the maximum wave height occurring during the storm. The integrated erosion volume due to the 12 events with the highest cumulative wave energy density accounts for about 60% of the total eroded volume of the peninsula, indicating that the less energetic wave events, with a higher probability of occurrence, are also important for the initial response of the Sand Engine. A structured model experiment using the verified Delft3D model indicates that wave forcing dominates the initial morphological response of the Sand Engine, accounting for approximately 75% of the total erosion volume in the first year. The vertical tide is the second most important factor accounting for nearly 17% of the total erosion volume, with surge, wind and horizontal tide playing only a minor role. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The understanding of cross-shore sediment sorting is of primary importance for the design of sand nourishments and for assessing the suitability of the seabed to different ecological species. In this paper, sediment sorting processes were investigated by using a combination of physical and detailed numerical modelling. Data from large-scale wave flume experiments were used to validate a 2DV cross-shore Delft3D model. The model solves coupled short-wave averaged equations for flow, sediment transport, bed composition and bed level change. The infra-gravity wave motions were explicitly resolved. In order to investigate sorting processes, eight sediment fractions were used as well as a layered bed stratigraphy. The effects of different wave conditions (high energetic and more moderate energetic waves) on the morphodynamic profile development and sorting processes were investigated. The Delft3D model reproduced the profile development and bar position very accurately. Additionally, model predictions of sediment sorting across the profile fitted very well with the available observations. The numerical model simulations showed the importance of including short-wave grouping and infragravity wave effects in order to reproduce the cross-shore profile development, especially the breaker bar dynamics and sediment sorting processes. Infragravity waves contribute to larger sediment entrainment and more offshore bar development. Besides leading to a better prediction of the bed profile, infragravity waves also lead to a better prediction of the bed composition. Model results are in agreement with experimental data, showing its capabilities in functioning as a tool to predict sorting processes. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract: Potential physical impacts of an anthropogenic effect on a tidal basin evolution are investigated applying the Delft3D model suite under both tidal and wave boundary forcings. Study area is based on a peninsula construction of the Ley Bay in the East Frisian Wadden Sea. Model simulation spans from 1975 to 1990 in two stages of which the second stage begins with the implemented peninsula on the 1984 predicted morphology. The model bed consists of initially distributed three sediment fractions. Sensitivity of the Ley Bay evolution is analysed under three different sediment transport formulations: 1) Van Rijn, 1993 (VR93), 2) Soulsby, 1997 (SVR) and 3) Van Rijn et al., 2004 (VR04). Offshore tides and waves are transformed up to the model boundaries via a nested modelling approach and a statistically derived highly schematised wave climate is adopted in the simulations. Predicted morphologies indicate lower agreement with the measured morphology due to including very sparse data. Despite this discrepancy, they reproduce the major changes in the Ley Bay caused by the peninsula construction while each formula results in a slightly different channel/shoal pattern. Predicted evolution under the SVR shows the strongest sediment exporting system and therefore the lowest agreement with the 1990 measured morphology. Both VR93 and VR04 formulas resulted in marginal exporting systems and more or less similar morphologies. In fact, only the VR04 prediction indicates a fair agreement with the 1990 data. Temporal evolution under the VR04 shows concentrated velocity patterns at the bay entrance and in the eastward bay channel resulting in the development of this channel and sedimentation in the southern part of the bay as found in the data. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: Numerical modeling of a beach nourishment project is conducted to enable a detailed evaluation of the processes associated with the effects of nearshore dredge pits on nourishment evolution and formation of erosion hot spots. A process-based numerical model, Delft3D, is used for this purpose. The analysis is based on the modification of existing bathymetry to simulate “what if” scenarios with/without the bathymetric features of interest. Borrow pits dredged about 30 years ago to provide sand for the nourishment project have a significant influence on project performance and formation of erosional hot spots. It was found that the main processes controlling beach response to these offshore bathymetric features were feedbacks between wave forces (roller force or alongshore component of the radiation stress), pressure gradients due to differentials in wave set-up/set-down and bed shear stress. Modeling results also indicated that backfilling of selected borrow sites showed a net positive effect within the beach fill limits and caused a reduction in the magnitude of hot spot erosion. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: Computer modeling of sediment transport patterns is generally recognized as a valuable tool for understanding and predicting morphological developments. In practice, state-of-the-art computer models are one- or two-dimensional (depth-averaged) and have a limited ability to model many of the important three-dimensional flow phenomena found in nature. This paper presents the implementation and validation of sediment transport formulations within the proven DELFT3D three-dimensional (hydrostatic, free surface) flow solver. The paper briefly discusses the operation of the DELFT3D-FLOW module, presents the key features of the formulations used to model both suspended and bedload transport of noncohesive sediment, and describes the implemented morphological updating scheme. The modeling of the three-dimensional effects of waves is also discussed. Following the details of the implementation, the results of a number of validation studies are presented. The model is shown to perform well in several theoretical, laboratory, and real-life situations. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Tidal inlets are crucial landforms that control the exchange of water and sediment between the open sea and back-barrier basins. Despite the well-established relationship between tidal prism and inlet cross section area, some aspects of tidal inlet geometry remain unconstrained. What processes set their width to depth ratio (or aspect ratio)? What controls the presence of a single-thread versus a compound channel within the same inlet? Do these relationships change with engineering activities? These questions were investigated by compiling and analyzing a database with 226 inlets worldwide. We found that the aspect ratio has a weak dependency on tidal range and wave height. The aspect ratio varies by at least an order of magnitude, and this variability is likely associated with the variability in the widening process, e.g., the bank erodibility. Engineered inlets tend to have smaller widths and aspect ratios than natural inlets. Within natural inlets, multiple channels tend to form when the inlet width exceeds approximately 1 km. We developed an idealized barrier-inlet system using the detailed 2D hydro-morphodynamic model Delft3D to investigate the long-term morphological evolution of inlets. Two parameters greatly affect the aspect ratio: the transverse bed gradient factor for sediment transport (α bn) and the dry cell erosion factor (θ sd) , which allows for erosion of dry cells adjacent to a wet cell. Removing the dry cell erosion effectively "armors" the side of the inlets and thus produces inlets with a small aspect ratio, which resembles the geometry of engineered inlets. From model sensitivity analysis, we found that α bn = 5–10 and θ sd = 0.3–1.0 provides inlet configurations that best agree with observations. Despite the dry cell erosion and the transverse transport parameters being a simplified representation of bank erosion processes, their calibration allows to reproduce realistic inlet aspect ratio. • Existing knowledge of tidal inlet geometry was expanded using a comprehensive dataset and morphodynamic model. • We compared natural and engineered inlets, highlighting their differences in aspect ratios and channel configurations. • Appropriate values for 2 key model parameters (dry cell erosion factor and transverse bed gradient factor) were identified. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

On October 29, 2012, storm surge and large waves produced by Hurricane Sandy resulted in the formation of a breach in eastern Fire Island, NY. The goals of this study are to gain a better understanding of the physical processes that govern breach behavior and to assess whether process-based models can be used to forecast the evolution of future breaches. The wilderness breach grew rapidly in size during the first winter following formation. Growth of the breach was accompanied by the formation of a complex of flood shoals inside Great South Bay, a primary channel that flowed through the eastern part of the flood shoals, and an ebb shoal on the ocean side of the breach. From the summer of 2013 through late 2015, the breach continued to change and evolve, albeit at a much slower pace than in the first year after formation. A hybrid combination of Delft3D and XBeach models is used to hindcast the morphodynamic evolution of the wilderness breach over the first three years after formation. The formation of the breach during Hurricane Sandy is not part of the simulations. Model simulations are initiated with a post-storm topography in which the breach is already present. The models are capable of hindcasting the main morphodynamic changes of the wilderness breach. The spatial patterns, as well as the bulk statistics, such as breach geometry and sediment volume changes, are reasonably well reproduced by the model. The model sheds light on previously unknown processes of breach evolution, especially regarding sediment transport and flow regimes within the breach complex. • A hybrid combination of Delft3D and XBeach models hindcasts the morphodynamic evolution of a barrier island breach. • Model results are validated against a wide range of field observations. • The models shed light on previously unknown processes of breach evolution regarding sediment transport and flow regimes. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]